It's well known that Mallorca is the epicentre of the climbing world for deep-water soloing. The North Face Climbing Festival in 2024 brought new eyes to this style of climbing, however, those who have visited Mallorca would argue that there is no comparison between climbing on plastic above a cold river and experiencing the warmth and beauty of deep-water soloing in Mallorca.

Mallorca's coastline features numerous cliffs of varying heights (from 5 to about 18 meters), sea temperatures reaching 25 degrees, and softer landings (when the sea is favourable, and if you land correctly). The jug-infested Spanish limestone offers something for climbers of all abilities; as long as you're a good swimmer, then you can climb to whatever grade you prefer. If you have not tried it yet, now is the time; it's certainly different from your average sport climbing holiday and may just be one of the best climbing holidays you will ever have!

Sixteen crags are featured in the new guidebook Rockfax - Mallorca Deep Water Soloing, along with around 100 new climbs. Each crag has its own characteristics; but the big three - Porto Cristo, Cala Barques, and Cala Sa Nau - are arguably the island's best-known and most-visited DWS venues.

Think twice before getting drawn in by the epic shots, though, people often don't realise that the most popular climbs are not always the ones you see on the big screen. Often, the shorter climbs and traverses top the most climbed lists, and it's because they are just as good as the climbs that give the kids street cred!

Mallorca DWS is included on Rockfax Digital, which offers additional and up to date coverage beyond that which is included in our printed guides. Rockfax Digital includes access to:

• Content from over 52 current print guidebooks
• 80,000+ routes
• 1,600+ crags
• High detail topos, overviews and maps, covering major crags throughout the UK and Europe

Rockfax have made Porto Cristo, Cala Barques, and Cala Sa Nau free for the next 30 days.

If you wish to explore these areas free of charge, download the app via the links below.

Porto Cristo

Arguably, the main event, but don't be put off by the big numbers, get stuck into White Noise (5c) and Dogging Romp (6a+) to start, and then if you fancy, Superwoman (7a+), Afroman (7b) and even Ejector Seat (7c).

There is plenty to explore and inspire climbers of all abilities. The other side of Porto Cristo is The Tower of Falcons, which is best reserved for the stronger, more experienced, and strong-minded individuals.

Cala Barques

The tropical deep-water paradise, now with a slightly longer approach, is a long-time favourite of most DWS climbers. Classics like Strangers in Paradise (7b+), Hercules (6c), and Fortuna (6a+) offer but a taste of what's on offer.

The Barques Traverse (6b) and The Might of the Stalactite (6c+) are great examples of some good traverses, and who doesn't love the climb but not the name, Golden Shower (7a)!

Cala Sa Nau

Boasting excellent traverse lines in the bay and super mini-ventures in the Virgin Area, Cala San Nau offers more to those seeking grade 4s, 5s, and 6s. Though there are some amazing aspirational lines throughout the area (some are too big to mention) if operating in the 4's to the 6's, it's 100% your venue to get ticking.

The beach has a small bar, which makes it a great stop-off point on the way back, but not before checking out the next venue.

Cala Mitjana

This venue has grown a lot over the years. The stunning wall of Illuminations (6b+) has now received the much-needed completion of old historical projects and the addition of new test pieces. Most head for the small cave, known as the 'Rich Bitch' cave and get stuck into the climb of the same name Rich Bitch (6c+). The crag curves rightward and increases in height the further you go, but the grades vary, giving everyone something to try. 

Porto Colom

If you're seeking thrilling low-down adventures, head to Porto Colom, traverse into the cove, and try I live in a cave (6b+). If that's your thing, then Princess of Transilvania (7a) should be high on your list, even if you're just going to give it a go!

Complete the full traverse, Drop Zone (6c+), to explore the entire bay.

Cala Marcal

Arguably, this is the best venue for pushing limits at friendly grades. Mortal Kombat (6b+) is one of the best 6b+ routes, and features plenty of jugs! Additionally, it's a roadside crag, and has the most leisurely low-level traverse on the island at 3a - it's definitely not as popular as it deserves to be!

Cala Brafia and Cala Estreta

If you're seeking solitude, head to either of these crags - best described as not-so-secret spots - to enjoy good times and less-travelled lines. The waves to catch are As Good As It Gets (6b+) at Estret and Stigmata (6c+) at Brafia. 

Cala Serena

This is the largest crag for Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca, featuring over 125 routes, most of which sit between 6b and 7a. Although some areas, particularly around Sector Sosec, are not very high, it is essential to be well-prepared for accessing and exiting the routes.

Notable climbs include the The Tortilla Traverse (7a+) and Mi primera flinada (6b). Additionally, don't overlook the somewhat isolated Sector of Brazil, which is making its printed debut for the first time!

Santanyi (DWS)

Renowned for its sport climbing, the bay of Santanyi features a fantastic beach and some enjoyable, beginner-friendly DWS spots. Outside the bay lies the Es Pontas (9a+) arch and the iconic climb of the same name, arguably the most famous DWS in the world.

The East Coast Connoisseur

Less-visited crags such as Porto Cristo Novo, Cova des Burador, and Cala Llombards cater to those seeking further exploration.

While they have fewer routes, they hide hidden gems and deserve attention. You can try Up the Anty (6c+) at Porto Cristo Novo, The Camp Jogger (6c+) at Cova des Burador, and the challenging yet impressive roof climb at Cala Llombards, Follam Balam (8a+) 

North West Coast

Sa Calobra is the most picturesque and farthest destination to reach. With traverses and great exhibitionist climbs available, Wax (7a) and The Fulcher (6b+) are notable options.

Further down the coast is Port De Soller (DWS) and two smaller DWS venues: the isolated cave of Cova de ses Puntes and the accessible main Port de Soller bay walls, which feature lower-grade lines and traverses. Cap Gros and additional sites along the coastline are still under development and represent a new breeding ground for hard but undocumented climbs. 

Palma

Finally, whether you arrive straight from the plane or before heading home, make sure to visit Porto Pi. It features a conveniently located car park and some playful lines to w(h)et your appetite, or bid farewell. 

Guidebook

Mallorca Deep Water Soloing

Mallorca has established itself as Europe’s finest and most popular deep water soloing destination with many climbers coming here just for this. The island’s famous big golden pockets on steep overhanging walls of perfect rock are both enticing and intimidating. The splashdowns into the deep, warm blue water of the Mediterranean, followed by sangria and tapas at one of the island’s many bars and restaurants make the place all the more memorable. The height of the routes varies from a bouldery 5m to a terrifying 20m, and grades from 3+ to 9a+ means that there is something here for everyone. Add all this together and it is...

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