UKC

I am looking for recommendations for a new bike. I dislike cycling but need one for occasional use for approaching hills and climbs. Use would be on gravel tracks and maybe easy paths such as when going in to the Cairngorms - once things get tricky I am quite happy to walk. I currently have a second hand mountain bike with suspension and about a million gears which are always going wrong (I've taken to putting it in a middling gear and sticking with it and just walking any uphill bits). I have rubbish practical skills, so need something reliable and with low maintenance. I suppose my ideal would be something with three hub gears (I really don't need any more) which never go wrong like I had as a child. I am happy to pay a reasonable amount for something which reliably does the job and doesn't give me a feeling of dread before riding it and then regularly reduce me to apoplectic rage when the gears crash and the chain falls off. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated (as long as it's not to learn to love bikes and cycling).

I think your best bet is to get into a good shop and try lots. It's not just about what gears it has, but ride position and fit matter hugely, especially once you get onto hills. People who are keen, regular cyclists can buy second hand or online as they often know what makes/ models/ sizes work for them. But if you only know what you hate, then you really want to try loads. 

Am I right in thinking you are in Edinburgh? Are Edinburgh Bikes still in operation? They would be my first port of call if so. They should also be knowledgeable about helping you with bike set up so that you are riding in the most ergonomic way and that also makes a huge difference. 

I'd probably just take your existing bike to your local bike shop and get them to fix it (unless it is a proper heap of junk). You could probably spend loads on something with 3 speed hub gears, but something would go wrong eventually!

I use a mountain bike to access Scottish crags from time to time (I like mountain biking generally though and just use my very unsuited enduro bike) if I were to buy something specific I'd get an E bike. But these cost loads and probably are more faff then a 'normal bike' so don't really meet your criteria.

I also find alpkit's massive saddlebags good, I can fit a 60m rope in!

Similar to what Ebdon says, if there is nothing wrong with your current bike other than the gears not working well, spend a few hundred pounds on a service and replacing the necessary parts, then get it serviced at least once a year. A new mountain bike may have slightly lighter parts, or a slightly more comfortable position, but if those things aren't bothering you or don't matter, then don't waste your money. An old bike treated well will be far more reliable than a modern bike treated poorly. 

Just checked your profile, Swiss bike shops might charge £100s, but over here bike shops ,I find are quite reasonable, especially compared to outdoor gear.  Otherwise , excellent advice.

Another option is to hire a bike for the day , I got my first mtn bike this way, got a good deal on an ex hire.

Thanks. I might go and have a look.

I'd recommend this. It's nigh on perfect for what you describe and is good value. They have a shop in Causewayside who could get it up here for you, also handy should you need any backup.

https://alpkit.com/products/sonder-dial-sx-eagle-demo-bike-xlarge-recon-gre...

I have been taking it to a local bike shop, but it just goes wrong again. Simpler gears (even if not hub) are non-negotiable for me. I think mine has three cogs at the front and seven at the back; there is just too much to go wrong (and I use it so rarely that I can't even remember which lever does what each time!). I definitely only want one cog at the front and I'm convinced I'd be happy with three at the back. Maybe I could keep the frame and just get new gears?

Perhaps a hybrid style bike; mid way between a commuter bike and a mountain bike might do the trick.

With a Gates carbon drive - a kind of non stretchy rubber band instead of a chain - never needs oil or replacing. And a hub gear at the back, can be found in 3 speed, 5, 8 or 14. These will need an annual oil change but that's it.

Shimano make a nifty dynamo front hub that'll keep front and rear lights going - no more batteries.

Your local bike shop (LBS) should be able to find you something suitable. Have fun with the hunt !

Aren't twelve gears just asking for trouble? Or is the one cog at the front going to help a lot?

This is what those big MTB ebikes were made for.

E

Having always strenuously argued that ebikes are cheating, I'm not sure I could live with that!

Watching this thread with interest as I'm in exactly the same position as you.

Have a heap of junk picked up 2nd hand for £150, could do with something better, and feel a tiny bit inspired by my wife's new bike-to-work e-bike.

I gather bikes have never been cheaper but they still look eye watering if you don't ride for its own sake, only as an occasional means to reach remote hills/crags with the gentlest track kind of access, and just want something totally not-flash. 

Fit/ergonomics seem important too though. Perhaps I've disliked cycling all my life because I've never had a bike that fits?

My fear is that once you start thinking about fit and visiting a shop to look at brand new things it's a slippery slope to spending hundreds and hundreds if not thousands and thousands...  

1 up front is pretty standard these days (for good reasons) and makes the gearing almost half as simple as you are losing an entire set of gears! Weather its 10 11 or 12 at the back won't make a huge difference regarding maintenance faff.

Thanks, that's useful. But would 3 rather than 12 make a difference? Is just asking a shop to put simpler gears on my current bike a viable option?

Yes, you could replace your gears with a 1×whatever set up and it would probably sort your gear issues to a large extent. I know people who have successfully done this. It won't be cheep though as you will need to completely change your transmission and depending on your current bike, budgets ect. you may want to just to buy a new bike.  A good local bike shop will be able to advise better.

No, it’s much simpler as you have 12 cogs at the rear and one at the front. You could build something with less gears but why bother? 
Pretty much everything you buy will have 12 gears now. Genesis used to do a basic mountain bike with a hub gear, not sure they do anymore. I’ve been running 1x12 for a few years, my bike gets fairly hard use including 24 hour races in winter and I’m really bad for neglecting maintenance. Never get any trouble.
 

If you really want simplicity then go singlespeed. One of my friends swears by it  (on a fat bike too) and he’s into riding for days on end with next to no sleep. It’s a pretty laid back way of riding once you get your head around it.

It's not that expensive to replace the front gears. I recently had my old 3x replaced with a 1x for about £100. I initially kept the original cassette, but then replaced that with a wider range, for about £180. 

Well that's effectively what I'm doing at the moment!

The cheapest, simplest solution is to do a couple of hours bike maintenance class with a local bike shop, build some self-sufficiency and resilience and use what you have. I did this ages ago and now probably adjust my gears once per year and they very rarely cause any problems.

Sorry, non-starter. The idea of doing bike maintenance horrifies me. I would end up beating the bastard thing against the nearest wall. Honestly.

Anyway, it's been to my local bike shop about once a year and still only ever does a couple of outings before going wrong again. Maybe it's a crap shop though. Or just a crap bike.

Quite right too. Why spend a bit of time learning something useful when you can stamp your feet and act like a spoilt teenager? Far more satisfying. 

It sounds like you want a shiny new bike. I suggest a red one.

Get the bike shop to change the front to a single chain ring and remove the gear stuff. The rear 7 speed could be changed to a friction lever, very old hat but easy to always find a gear.  7 speeds is more than adequate for non-steep cycling and walking is almost as fast on steeper looser tracks.

Given all you've said here: don't ever buy a bike.

Carry on walking and carry on disliking bikes; you'll be much happier

I did wonder if this was some sort of cosmic bike karma directed against Robert after all the mean things he has said about cycling. Perhaps the bike knows how much it is hated and just needs a hug?

You have misunderstood. I would learn how to do it and it still wouldn't work. That's what happens with me and practical stuff. 

A bike had its uses. I expect my car to work and get me to a hill. I pay someone else to maintain it. I would like to be able to expect the same of my bike. It's simply an occasional labour saving device. Like a washing machine.

Also, I find walking along hard tracks the worst thing for my dodgy knees.

If it keeps going wrong, then maybe ask them why or change bike shop.

If it's getting proper mucky on your infrequent trips then leaving it in a shed after is going to cause problems. A quick rinse down with a hose (not a pressure hose!), a bit of a scrub with a cycle detergent and a brush, rinse, then a re-oil should keep things reliable. Takes 5-10 min. Once a year service at a good shop.

There are bikes that use belts instead of chains - I think they tend to be commuter specials though. Still need cleaning.

Speaking as someone relatively new to cycling, let alone cycle maintenance, keeping a modern bike in good order with nothing more than a few basic tools and lubricants is way easier than fixing a broken washing machine!

The more I think about it, the more this appeals. Do suitable single speed bikes exist?

 On your existing bike, you could just ask the bike shop to bypass the gear change mechanism / chain tensioner and put a shorter chain on. Decide which gear ratio, cogs to use first, ideally ones which are straight in line with each other.

I think you're right to be looking at hub gears, I don't think going for a 1x setup will solve your maintenance issues. Any rear derailleur is going to need looking after to keep it working properly. I have a hybrid with 2x9 chainset. The only thing on it that needs regular maintenance is the rear shifting. The front two speed is no problem at all, I never have to touch it. I really don't know what people have against them. The brakes are hydraulic disc and all I have ever done is change the pads, an occurrence so rare you can leave it to the bike shop. But keeping the rear 9 speed working well involves regular cleaning and lubing of the chain, and it's easily bashed, so needs straightening and setting up again. 

There are some really nice 8 speed hub gear systems, but they are very expensive. I don't see why you couldn't get a regular MTB and get someone to build you a back wheel with one of those Sturmey Archer 3 speed hubs that we all had as a kid. It wouldn't be the cheapest option but would give you a solid bike that should require no maintenance outside an annual service, apart from oiling the chain occasionally. If you can't be doing with that, then you'll have to go belt drive, which is nice but very expensive.

Even simpler mechanically than a single speed is a fixed gear bike. Then you don't even need a back brake. 

Somehow I'm tickled by the prospect of Robert on fixie, cut down handlebars and all. You'll need to grow a beard and get a tattoo, then it's straight outta Brooklyn, circa 2008. #highlandhipster

More seriously, I'm surprised you find gears really that bamboozling - it's basic maths besides anything, ratios and all that. I'm absolutely not an engineer, but I can sort out the gears on my bikes. If your former students said "I just can't do maths", I take it you didn't say "probably right. I'd just hire someone to use a calculator for you!" :⁠-⁠)

I think you can get some of the Alpkit/Sonder bikes as single speed though. Or try any other decent bike shop and say you think you are interested in a single speed mountain bike. They tend to be cheaper than their geared brethren. 

Or while idly googling for you (waiting for kid at swimming lesson!) I found this Boardman with three speed hub gears for 600 quid - which isn't much for a half decent bike. https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Boardman-URB-8-6-2023-Hybrid-Sports-Bike_228755.ht...

Oh mais oui. I'll have a dig around for links and post them later. BTW I don't know if you met my mate who was at Gairloch last year with the VW camper and the big awning, next to B&J's tent. He had a fat bike with him that was resolutely singlespeed. Not saying you should get a fat bike though

Here's some. 

https://www.brothercycles.com/shop/frames/big-bro/#yellow

Pedals Cycles in Bruntsfield are Brother dealers and would build one for you. They are good folk.

https://alpkit.com/products/broken-road-st-sx-eagle?variant=40723516031081

A friend has the titanium version of this, really great bike and aimed at off-road touring rather than the wheelchair chasing demographic. Lots of potential for bolting racks etc.

Note both of these can be run with hub gears or with normal gears as well.

FWIW, my mountain bike looks similar to them but is quite posh,  I absolutely love it but if I ever change it it will be because I can't convert it to singlespeed and I'd like the option.

Edit: in case no-one has mentioned it, get 29" wheels. I have a suspicion that your bike is ancient and will have 26". There is a place for old style smaller wheels, but not if you're 6'+ and are more interested in riding in and out of the hills rather than tearing around trail centres. Also, pretty much all bikes have disc brakes now. Embrace them, they're better.

I think you're suffering from a bout of nostalgic rose-tintitus. these things did go wrong and do go wrong, and still needed cable tension adjustments, and you still need to keep the thing reasonably clean and lubricated. I suspect that you actually only has 2 gears, 1st and 3rd, 2nd never engaging properly.

Ok, I’ll play…

https://winstanleysbikes.co.uk/marin-presidio-3-2023-bike?gad_source=1&...

I have an old Clockwork Orange with a 3 x 7 gear setup like the OPs.

It has a huge gear range, is friction shift so no indexing worries and I think vs a modern 12 speed setup the Chain and gears are chunkier. 1 x 12 seems inherently more fragile and over the years, stuck up inaccessible glens, would I trust it's robustness? Not sure.

I'd have a look at the hybrids offered by Decathlon - for what they are they are VERY keenly priced.

I've got one of these:

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/mp/riverside/refurbished-touring-bike-riversi...

...which isn't a touring bike at all as it claims, but in fact a pretty hefty "sit up" hybrid that can cope with paths and roads alike quite happily.  Only thing I've ever not been able to make it do is deal with wet rock through a stream.

Hub gears aren't great for anything other than the Dutch flatlands (or East Anglia, or West Lancashire) because there are big jumps between them, I find.

No, this is wrong. Maybe this might be true for cheaper hub gears (but I doubt it is universally true), but it certainly isn't valid for all.

For example, my cyclocross bike currently has a gearing set up for riding the 3 Peaks CX and has a  40 x 11-42 (its a 1x set up at present). This gives a gear inch range from 98 down to 26. In contrast, a Rohloff Speedhub (14 internal gears) with a Gates belt drive (something that would be pricey but definitely ticks the low maintenance box for Robert) with a 42 tooth front ring and 19 rear would have a gear inch range from 94 down to 18. ie a significantly lower gear than I need for climbing up PenyGhent when I'm blowing out of my proverbial and  a very respectable higher gear that you'd be unlikely to spin out with even doing 25mph. As for the jumps in gears between these upper and lower limits, well that isn't true either.

It's true of the 3 speeds he referred to (because of how those ones work they can't do anything other than double ratios between gears).  You can as you say get (rather more expensive) ones with more speeds though, which are in effect several in a row and so can give you smaller steps.

That said, I did have a 7 speed hub geared Dutch bike in MK and found that 1st wasn't quite low enough and 7th was not high enough, and sold it and got a new bike with a derailleur.  There might be specifically designed ones for mountain biking, but they'll be expensive.

The other thing that was an utter pain about it was that if you wanted to replace an innertube to fix a puncture quickly you had a massive disassembly/reassembly job compared to the ease of popping a derailleur wheel on/off.

They do have benefits but I'd not get another one.  Cheaper ones a pain, expensive ones, well, expensive, I can spend that extra money on other things.

I had a 21 speed set up on my 2010/11 commuting mountain bike. The front derailleur was forever being a pain in the backside, jamming, rubbing lobbing the chain off, jamming in the mech etc. 

I swapped (local bike shop did the work) to a single middle sized front chain wheel and left my 7 speed on the rear. Now I have one front cog, 1 rear cog with 7 speeds. It's behaved perfectly since and no more shouting at it. 

FWIW, my 7 speed rear cog is this: Shimano Tourney MegaRange Freewheel - MF-TZ500 - 14-34T - 7 Speed. The 34T is big enough to make hills doable but maybe not the toughest off road tracks. Although sounds like you'd probably be walking those.

Might be worth asking the shop that's an option - whether it is might depend on what parts are on the bike / can be fitted. Certainly a likely to be a lot cheaper than a new bike if the old one fits you etc. 

That's what the Decathlon oddity* above has - one on the front, 11 on the back!  Works pretty well - I did worry about it jumping in the lowest and highest gears but it doesn't at all.

* Hard to describe what it is.  They sell it as a tourer but it really isn't - tourers don't give you a sit up riding position and usually have drops.  It isn't an MTB either, and it's chunkier than most hybrids.  What it kind of is is an e-bike without the E (big frame and wheels with a larger number of spokes than normal) but with extra braze-ons to add racks etc but sold fully equipped as an urban bike.  But it's absolutely ideal for me as a heavier rider on roughly maintained Redways!  I've road-ised hardtail MTBs before by changing the tyres and adding racks, mudguards and lights, it's kind of that I suppose.

I did this on mine (26.5 inch wheel,  3x7 trek mountain bike from 2010/11). Best thing I did to it. All the issues with the jamming gears gone instantly. 

I don't remember it being crazy expensive. I waited till my cogs chain etc needed replaced so would have been paying for all that anyways.

For my bike the parts (7 speed rear cassette, single front cog and crank, bottom bracket** plus 7-8 speed sram chain) are about £80-100 at todays prices plus fitting etc. **may or may not need a new bottom bracket, depends on the new front cog etc.

The big 2 drivetrain manufacturers are listening and both launched new  bicycle drivetrains last year that are much more forgiving of the non-mechanically minded clunking their way through shifts at the wrong time and crunching/dropping their chains.

Shimano XT-Linkglide EP801  is a 1x11 MTB drivetrain with automatic shifting for e-bikes, only downside apart from cost is it still uses a chain which needs cleaned and oiled, but all the reports are that is its ideal for people who find changing gear to complicated.

SRAM also launched a 1x12 drivetrain called T-type or Transmission which is an electronically controlled button operated rear derailleur system, still reliant on a chain though, and while it does away with the need to clean and lube a shifter cable you need to remember to check the battery charge.

The most bombproof solution  I would suggest is to find a bike with a 1x8 or 1x11 Shimano Alfine internal hub gear with a belt drive. Though not officially endorsed for mtb use. I have a friend who has been using one offroad for years with no problems.

Agreed, though the MTB use they are not endorsing is likely hard riding, trail centres, downhill etc rather than riding into the hills along estate tracks. A friend who was a MTB instructor years ago had a Genesis hardtail with an Alfine hub gear which he used purely for working, entirely because of the lack of maintenance.

Then there's the Pinion gearbox option but that is probably ridiculously expensive.

Thanks to all for all the helpful replies. I'll try to get my head around all the stuff later and get back with some queries.

With this being a climbing forum I wouldn't be surprised if there is a silent majority of people who just want a  bike to work for occasional and have no interest in becoming a mechanic let alone getting their head round all the technical jargon that seems to dominate cycling threads (I am thankful that most people have kindly kept this to a minimum here). So hopefully useful!

Almost!

Looks ideal. Do Decathlon stock them?

If you wait a while then everyone will be binning their 1x12 bikes for the simplicity of those 0x0 ones. And a top hat of course.

If what you're after is a bike that you can ride hard and put away wet then come back to in 6 months and expect perfect function, then you're always going to be disappointed. Once there's a derailleur (or hub gears) involved the number of gears isn't going to change that. If your response to anything needing adjustment is to throw your toys out of the pram then you're never going to get on with any bike beyond a penny farthing. 
I can't believe that it's really not possible for you to get to grips with adjusting gear cables in the time it will save you on a single walk-in.

Some people are mechanical and some people just aren't.  My Dad isn't.  One of the guys in my mountaineering club isn't.  We're not all like you.

Well I've watched the man in my local shop adjusting the gears on my bike. Even he, after loads of tiny adjustments, admitted he couldn't get the littlest one to work properly. Just the thought of trying to do something so fiddly and frustrating myself gives me a feeling of mild panic, nausea almost.

Yes, that's what mine does. The big cogs at the front are the problem and the little ones at the back are often ok. I think just having one cog at the front might suit me.

Well the cycling I do is pretty flat up gentle glens with anything much more than almost imperceptible hills pushed, so might not be a problem

That sounds pretty good. Does "sit up" mean I don't have to have my hands so low that I get a sore neck trying to look up to see where I'm going (I'm very tall and, unlike with my childhood bikes, the handlebars on my current bike won't go up despite the large frame.

I can understand hating it, but you're certainly not thick and definitely capable. 

If the shop struggle with it then maybe it is just cursed, but it seems defeatist and I'd have thought if you get used to adjusting the little barrels on the shifters as you go you would be able to get it to behave. My bike needs a quarter of a turn if I use out of line gear combinations but once used to it it's fine.

It's not Dutch sit up and beg but it is (and most other hybrids are other than the fast urban ones) more "sit up" than a road bike is.

If the main issue with your current bike is that, though, you can get stem risers to allow you to raise the bars (though if your brake cables are short you may also have to replace those) - there are 2 types - this type:

https://www.berwickcycles.co.uk/components/finishing-kit/frog-1-1-8th-bicyc...

goes on top of your stem then your existing bars attach to the new raised stem, whereas this type:

https://www.kootubike.com/products/bicycle-handlebar-riser-stem-adjustable-...

replaces the bit that clamps the bars and the stem (not sure what that's called).

These aren't specific recommendations, just random examples of that type of thing from a Google search!

What is the difference between single-speed and fixed gear (fixie?).? I've tried looking it up and am not clear. 

The maths is fine. The practicalities are obviously totally different. That's one reason I gravitated towards maths after all - nothing more sophisticated than paper and pencil needed (though I have increasingly struggled with pencil sharpeners).

No, not in so many words, but maybe being equally rubbish in other areas maybe helped me empathise. I might have said something along the lines of "just get past this exam and you'll never need be bothered ybthis stuff again".  

I came across those myself. But would they be suitable for any off road stuff?

You might be surprised how often the troubling front mechanism actually prevents your chain falling off. That said, there is some technology on modern 1x drive systems that is supposed to prevent the chain dropping off but I’m not wholly convinced it works as well as billed. I’ve added a chain guide to my 1x bike…

Thanks. Could be useful if I decide to just change the gears on my current bike.

I'm tempted. Is there actual evidence that red ones are better behaved. My current one is mostly white I think (not sure, I havn't looked for a while).

Well I've certainly cursed it many times.

Single speed has a free-wheel cog that allows free-wheeling down hills.

On a Fixie the cog is locked to the wheel so if the wheels are going around so are the pedals. It’s a very reliable drive train and great for flat commuting but not suitable for your purposes.

For hill approaches you really need working gears and certainly a free wheel for the often downhill return leg.

Thanks. So does the chain actually move to a different cog when free-wheeling?

Yes, half point of a bike for me is the knee-saving free-wheel at the end of the day.

No. The single cog at the rear has a built-in one way ratchet which when you turn the pedals forward catches and turns the wheel. When you stop pedalling the unengaged ratchet allow the wheel to continue spinning I.e. free-wheeling.

A singlespeed would suit this. Given your aversion to gears, it may make more sense for you than for most people. Their simplicity really does make them very reliable as well as lighter. You'll end up standing up on the pedals a lot more for going uphill, you'll end up pushing a bit more and you won't be able to pedal hard on the downhills in order to go fast, but for the vast bulk of riding into and out of the hills, none of this is an issue. If you get a bike like one of the ones I linked to up the thread, you could always fit gears at a later date if you felt you needed them.  

Re the hybrid bikes you're being recommended, they look like great commuter/pub bikes and you definitely could ride them into the Cairngorms or even to Carn Mor but they'll be very harsh and nervy. A mountain bike will be much better, less tiring and less likely to break. Also, when you've got an hour of rolling downhill on a rough track in the dark after a long knackering day, a mountain bike will be immeasurably easier and require less input than a hybrid. You could do without front suspension, just fit the fattest front tyre you can get away with.

Ask your bike shop about tubeless tyres too, no more punctures and a comfier ride.

Hub gears are still available, and in more than 3 speeds.

IIRC, Shimano bought out Sturmey-Archer, and have a range of hub gears.

Then there is Rohloff, but they are eye-wateringly expensive; Shimano are more reasonable.

But they are both expensive hubs, so, if you need to replace a wheel rim, you need to get the hub built in to a new rim; a decent hike shop can do that, but it's additional labour cost over a ready-built wheel.

Disk brakes eliminate rim wear, so you're down to rim damage from rock impacts, crashes, etc. Plus better braking in wet, muddy outdoor environments.

Well, you still get punctures, but you hope that the goop seals the hole. Fitting tubeless tyres, and ensuring a good rim seal can be a pain in the arse. You can use similar goop with innertubes.

I cycle tour, but am not a cyclist, so understand what you are on about.

You could consider finding a local bike charity,  that would either show you how to maintain your existing bike, or sell you a reconditioned bike, and if you want, show you how to do basic maintenance on it.

All so cheaply, you could make a generous donation, if you chose, and still be hundreds of pounds in pocket.

People over think bikes, I did, but you could take your bike, and literally, cycle round the world on it, so it is more than capable of doing what you want.

A single speed bike has just one cog on the wheel (so only one 'speed' or gear). You can't change it besides removing that cog and having a different sized cog put on. But it will have a "free wheel" which allows the wheel to rotate without the cog attached to it having to rotate. This means rolling down a hill the back wheel isn't forcing the chain and thus pedals to go round. Having a freewheel is very much the norm for the vast majority of bikes.

Fixies are weird - and generally ridden by weird people ;⁠-⁠) (oh, and massive legged track cyclist going round indoor tracks - think Sir Chris Hoy. I don't know Chris, but he doesn't seem weird. (Get well soon Sir Chris!) No freewheel, so if the bike is rolling say down a hill, the cog is fixed to the wheel, rotating, which is rotating the chain and pedals. Very weird when you first try it and takes time for even experienced riders of 'normal' bikes to get used to. If you stop pedaling the back wheel will stop rotating, which mean back wheel skids are big part of stopping on a fixie. The simplest mechanically of any pedal bikes I guess, but a bit niche for what you want I would think. 

Gravel tracks I'm sure it would be fine on. You might want some slightly more chunky tires if you're riding in muddy conditions. My main bike is a Boardman, I love it and it has done great service. Generally good value for money - not a trendy brand, which tends to mean they need to be good value to get sales. 

If I was sure it would be ok for my use, I'd probably go straight to Decathlon and buy one. Sounds like my ideal bike would be this but with rear suspension. I do only ever bike quite slowly now after three crashes due to incompetence in the last few years (I was lucky that two of them in isolated spots on my own didn't have very serious consequences).

Alternatively I might just go in to a bike shop with my current bike and ask them to convert it to single speed. No doubt they would look at me as if I am mad/stupid, and they would probably be right, but at least it would be an inexpensive (?) mistake if it didn't work out for me. Maybe get the handle bars raised so I can see where I am going too.

nice to see Sturmey-Archer still going if you think 3 speeds is enough..

https://www.sturmey-archer.com/en/products/3-speed

or save your legs for the hill and get a cheap e-bike conversion kit

Not if you go to https://www.facebook.com/people/The-Bike-Shop-Scotland/100057332774662/ (which will be near to you?). Down to earth service so will just do what you want in my experience. That said they will give advice and practical recommendations if you are not sure.

Converted/altered/serviced various friend’s bikes in various ways to meet their requirements including converting one bike I recall with a 3x to a 1x which may well be an option for you. Excellent job they did on that one as well as all other alterations friends have had done. Also, have sourced some hard to get parts for my friends to meet their needs.

I have also had my bikes worked on by them though just routine work. Never had a problem. Reasonable prices too IME.

Thanks for the recommendation. Very convenient for me. 

You’d need to go to Halfords for the 3 speed Boardman. They seem to have them in available in Large. I’d be a bit worried the large wouldn’t be quite big enough for you but at least could try it out for size at the shop.

The kit to convert your old bike to single speed should be around £30 plus whatever they charge for fitting, if you can keep the current chainset (cranks). Critical will be selecting the gear ratio. I’m guessing you’d want to match the lowest gear you can tolerate on the flat so you’ve got some chance of getting over moderate rises before stepping off and walking.

If you decide to go, Paul is the owner who it is best to speak to especially if you want to talk through options/non standard service type stuff or even buy a bike and such like. He deals with those things personally IME. Nice guy and easy to chat to. He is not always about himself during all the opening hours though if you were making a special trip so could be best to phone and check.

Or use Schwalbe Marathon Plus or similar (e.g. Continental Gatorskin, or any other Kevlar belted tyre) - you just won't get punctures and they're less faff.

Kevlar isn't utterly impregnable. MTB tyres also get punctures outside the protected rolling surface.

Armoured tyres reduce the risk of punctures, but they still happen.

Before mountain bikes hit the UK in the late '70s there was 'Rough Stuff', where we'd head out to bothies or along tracks on do-everything (ordinary) bikes and just take it as slow as necessary and carry the bike where you had to. I managed up the odd munro on my Raleigh Royal with michelin 1.1/4" tyres. It was fun in its own right. I did use a fixed wheel (on the Royal) a few times, but off road the inability to stop pedalling with the cranks at 3-9 to go through a wheel rut, or to avoid a boulder was a nuisance. I also discovered you can strip the threads on a fixed gear by pushing too hard rowing up a hill. You miss the freewheeling function before you miss the other gears though. Fortunately when I did strip the  fixed gear I had a "flip-flop" wheel that had another sprocket on the other side of the axle so I was able to turn the wheel round and carry on. Flip-flops are usually set up with a fixed gear on one side and freewheel gear on the other, but 'changing gear' involves 5 minutes and a spanner so you pick what you want for the next few hours usually!  You get used to it. It worked for Fort William, where you were either on the flat (fixed) or in the hills (freewheel).

I guess I'm saying this to reassure you you can go anywhere with a semblance of a track on a basic bike, just more slowly -though averaging faster than walking -than on a specialist one. Mud and snow and tyre choice can make more difference than gears. Decathlon currently do a single speed [Elops City bike Single-speed 500 ]- with 32mm tyres and a flip-flop wheel for £299. I think their wheel has the freewheel fitted and you'd add a fixed sprocket to the other side if you ever wanted to try it. At 11.6kg for a steel bike it looks about the cheapest simple old school new bike option out there and has had a few 'best buy' recs on the cycling sites. Worth looking up if you want seriously simple.

They are massively effective.  If you added gunk as well you'd get them very, very rarely.

Our experience differs. You're not the only one to have used armoured tyres...

Clearly.  For riding around town and on MK's Redways, I've found Schwalbe Marathon Plus totally prevent punctures, despite the latter being covered in thorns and broken glass.  You only get one when you've let them wear too much, and that's a signal it's time to replace.

Before I started using them, it was easily one every week or two.

The Rough Stuff Fellowship are still going. Happy days, pre mountain bikes

A basic mountain bike is still vastly preferable for biking in and out of the hills, especially if you have zero interest in the actual cycling and have a big pack on, and this is what the OP is after. Sure you can do these rides with 32mm tyres but why bother when you can have much more comfortable and secure 2.4" rubber instead? Maybe if the bike was going to be used for commuting, touring, general riding etc, but it isn't. 

Anecdote: I rode into Seana Bhraigh from Oykel Bridge 20ish years ago on a touring bike with 32mm tyres, probably Gatorskins. I was slow because of picking my way around rough or soft patches and stream crossings which my mate on his very cheap mountain bike just rode over/through. On the way out I'd barely got going when I blew the sidewall of the tyre out. Then it started to piss down. Anyway I padded the hole with a plastic tray from a packet of Jaffa cakes and blew the new inner up to a pathetically soft pressure and managed to roll out very gingerly, standing on the pedals the whole way other than getting off to push if pedalling was required.  So yes it can be done, but equally you can still climb Point Five with one long axe and a poker for the belays.

Agreed, I used them on my touring bike for years and still have a pair which will go on a commuting/pub bike at some point. Any touring I do now though is on tubeless which are at least as puncture proof, comfier and much, much lighter. The Marathons are insanely heavy. I can't believe I winched myself over all the Pyrenean cols with them on.

Yes, tubeless is a faff to set up but then I recall nearly slipping a disc trying to fit the Marathons. I'd hate to try doing that in the arse end of nowhere. 

Not that any of this is helpful to the OP.

Maybe they aren't fixing it properly? or there is something wrong with the parts? Or you are treating it not correctly, or not changing gears properly? 

Gears in good condition, used properly should last a decent amount of time (although I do agree with you, that most bikes seem to have too may gears).

maybe 1x9 would suit our newbie cyclist? parts still available. stronger chain, less shifting anxiety etc

Well, I have a fixed wheel bike and also 1×12 speed gravel bike. I would not recommend a fixed or single speed as I presume you will be carrying stuff up to the hills. So, you would need a very low gear for the up hill bits, especially if not on tarmac and this would probably be annoyingly too low for flat or downhill. I think the best options so far mentioned already are the shimano alfine hubs. Just saw on ebay a hardtail MTB (a charge duster) with 8 speed alfine hub for £720, disc brakes.

SA do a 5 speed -the best of 3 and 8 speeds I'd like to know how well these hub gears work with mid-drive kits?

9 speed chains are the weakest ever made, same material as 8 speed just less of it, they were notorious for breaking in my club. When 10 speed came around they used a higher grade of steel and durability increased.

interesting, thanks. so better to go with 8 speed or original 12 speed for my e-bike conversion? i suspect there are other factors at play..

Various points about a 1*12 drivetrain which might drive the decision:

1 less deraileur to break/ adjust/ maintain

Lighter

Rear cassette and chain are more expensive than your 7 speed chain and cassette (DON'T buy a 1*11 drivetrain bike, it's hard getting hold of 1*11 cassettes at a sensible price as they're obsolete).

Less complex gearing as you don't really need to worry about chain shape once derailleurs are adjusted, down gear - easier pedalling but slower, up gear - harder pedalling but faster.

Easier to clean chainset, no harder to clean rear cassette.

I also strongly recommend disk brakes, much more effective than rim brakes if there's snow and water about. 

Couldn’t see that one but there’s one for £599. There’s something strangely appealing about it.

Yes, sorry, I meant Halfords.

I suspect it would be very unlikely to be big enough but I might pop in and see. From other comments, I'm not sure it would be very good for my use anyway.

Thanks. I really do think this might be worth a try for the cost - can't be worse than things as they are anyway! I'll psyche up to take my bike out locally tomorrow and see which gear might be best and ask for that to be replicated.

Great thanks. Sounds a good place to go.

Almost certainly the last two and possibly the first two!

Here you go, a bike made for cyclists who are not cyclists 

https://www.prioritybicycles.com/collections/bicycles-1

Just listening to the podcast How I built this, by the owner of this company 

my limited experiece with 1x12 is that the tolerances are tight and gear shifting never good enough over the whole range. so 1x12 out, 1x8/9 out 1x10/11 out. what left?

1 x (anything less than 8) presumably.

Ex mountain biker DH and supposedly an engineer. 

Derailleurs etc are adequate at best. All the gears hanging off the back wheel out in the dirt and water, wearing out in no time. 

Hub gears are a step up, but Pinion or other bottom bracket gearboxes are where it's at. 

Anyway, for some years now I've been riding a single speed 29" SE Big ripper, basically a big Bmx, it'll take a beating and with some decent tyres is a great laugh on the trails.

Very easy on the maintenance, a few sets of brake pads a couple of chains and a freewheel, I went one tooth bigger to ease the hill climbs (supplied one is pretty cheap) . Easy riding position too. 

I recall well walking out all the way from beyond Iron Lodge with a rear derailleur that had just snapped in two. OK to roll downhill on otherwise pushing all the way.

Still, a pretty rare occurence and I'd try again

Or just split the chain and shorten it to make a single speed, you do carry a chain tool on your rides???? 

good luck with that

In a somewhat similar situation to you a couple of years ago, having no interest whatever in bike maintenance or construction, and needing something to get knackered me back from the end of the activity to wherever the car was, I went for a foldable e-bike. It goes in the boot, or a bus/train/etc if required, hides in a dishevelled-looking garden bag for extra security. FWIW it was an E-Go Max (for the payload and range) but I should think there are better/cheaper out there now.

I black-taped over the bright green EGo Max logo.

I had a Specialized Rockhopper and really liked it before I had it stolen. Very good for the money.