UKC

Crag/Route suggestions for climber recovering from ill health

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 AlanPine 07 Jun 2021

Hello all, 

I live in the Peak District, climb regularly and know my way around. My wife, who also enjoys climbing, is currently on a chemotherapy treatment and for obvious reasons can't climb as hard as she used to. But she can still climb on her good days so we just need to alter where we go and what we climb ... 

The main problem is she doesn't have the upper body strength to pull herself up over bulges etc and can't hack any long or steep walks in. She is very happy on easier, ledgey, slab style routes. I have been going through my guide books to find areas that would be suitable (we went to Birchen for the first time last week, on the right had side of Stoker's Wall) which she managed perfectly and I enjoyed too! She was fine on Yo-Ho Crack, which is probably her upper limit in terms of strenuousness. 

So my question is, does any one have any crag/route suggestions taking into account the above?

In reply to AlanPine:

A fair bit of Froggatt would seem to fit the bill?   Plenty of slabby stuff around, though appreciate that there are more steep routes than Birchens in the mix.  Windgather would also be an obvious venue - right by the road, relatively short and plenty of slabs. 

 Offwidth 07 Jun 2021
In reply to AlanPine: 

You may find our website useful....link below... (needs a Flash enabled browser, like Puffin). Many grit crags have suitable routes. My favourite is Dovestones Edge in the Chew. Stanage has the most good routes across the edge (try just right of the Unconquerables for quieter low grade slabs). Ramshaw is useful if you need some afternoon shade. Gardom's if you want some tree cover. Chatsworth has shade and tree cover. If you want to try Peak limestone maybe look at Aldery or Harborough rocks.

https://offwidth.uptosummit.com/guides.html

 Sean Kelly 07 Jun 2021
In reply to AlanPine:

Well both Doctor's Chimney and Doctor's Saunter at Stanage North would be a good start. And I can throughly recommend the Night Nurse at Symond's Yat. Perhaps best to leave Post Mortem on Eagle Crag though!

Post edited at 16:33
 Tony Buckley 07 Jun 2021
In reply to Offwidth:

Quite a trudge up to Dovestones Edge, as I recall.  Aldery is a good shout for limestone.  Maybe Baslow for (quite short) but more secluded grit?

T.

 olddirtydoggy 07 Jun 2021
In reply to AlanPine:

Harborough rocks is covered in short v-diffs and juggy routes that don't need much power. It was a great venue for me after recovering from knee surgery.

 Offwidth 07 Jun 2021
In reply to Tony Buckley:

It's a moorland walk with a steep bit 'over before you know it' to great views, on a crag with a large variety of lower grade routes in very good nick. The relatively unfit begginers I took up there over the years all loved it.

Edit: apologies missed the bit in the OP about long walk-ins..... Doverstones is not the longest but probably not suitable. 

Post edited at 17:20
In reply to Alan Pine

Horse-Thief Quarry for some easy sport options.  Sheffield Tape Archive (6a+) in Goddard's Quarry is a longer slabby sport option. Stoney West has a few slabby/easy options after a steep but short walk.  Horseshoe Quarry Chocolate Blancmange Wall is all steady slabs. Yarncliffe has a very short walk in & several easy/slabby options.  Lawrencefield too, tho the walk in/out is a little longer with some steeper ground.  Aldery Cliff has perhaps the shortest walk in (park right at the bottom!), but the climbing is a bit more difficult.  Windgather Rocks Harborough Rocks are good options too

Hope the chemo goes well, & you can both enjoy some warm friendly days out in the meantime

Post edited at 17:45
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator  UKC Supporter 07 Jun 2021
In reply to AlanPine:

WIndgather is the obvious choice, easy access, not very steep, easy routes - you could have a couple of pleasant days there,

Chris

 heleno 07 Jun 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Another vote for Windgather. My "go to" for getting back into it - whether after pregnancy, injury or lockdown. I hope your wife is doing okay, and also hope that days out climbing will help her feel more like herself x

Post edited at 19:14

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