UKC

Morning all,

We're looking to go round some of the Scottish Islands, and as we'll have the dog with us, sea cliff climbing is not likely. Was just wondering what islands may have some sensibly accessible stuff.

Thanks

Frank

When are you thinking? Ground nesting birds everywhere at the moment so there might be more shouting/time on lead than you were hoping for.

Neist Point at Skye has plenty that would be fine with a dog. Probably Financial Sector being one of the most popular and easy to get to with a 4-legged animal.

Might help to have more of an idea of where you are going, there are a lot of Scottish islands and the Outer Hebrides vs the Inner Hebrides, vs Orkney island, vs Shetland islands are all very different and each group has an entire guidebook of crags and routes.

Probably thinking of heading up as soon as the weather becomes reliable, i.e. in about a month.

The dog will never be of the lead as he has no recall, but would be ideally don't want to be disturbing birds either. 

Part of the reason for asking is also because obviously the majority of Sea cliffs are out.

No real preference on where, although was thinking outer hebrides or maybe shetland. Have spent a lot of time on skye and mull but honestly know very little about all the other islands

Having just been up on Lewis with a dog, I'm not sure I can recommend it for you, depends how important climbing is: there's not that much inland climbing, and I can't see any of the sea cliffs having suitable access for a dog. However, if it helps, the Little Big Wall at  Uig Sea Cliffs North-East - Valtos would be perfect, as is Loch Lionais Crag. We also visited Beannan a' Deas, though expect a boggy walk-in.  Crulabhig would work, as could the outcrop sections of Mealaisbhal.

Thanks, I think I actually looked at Lewis in the guide (in years past) and seem to remember being put off due to the majority of it being sea cliffs.

Realistically though, I realise that on most islands, the majority of climbing will be sea cliffs as is the nature of the area. Not knowing much about the islands, I just wondered if there were some little hidden gems.

I was on Bute recently and noticed quite a lot of short outcrops round the southern end. Looks mostly like bouldering but it's a lovely circuit from Kilchattan around the point visiting St Blane's Chapel on the West Island Way. Lots of sheep and cattle in places so keep an eye on Fido.

I'm not a dog owner but I'm struggling to see how Financial Sector could be considered dog friendly, it's normally approached by abseil!

And the scrambling descent down Tower Gully is pretty horrible, as is the traverse back along to the Sector itself. 

I think you are really struggling for island cragging that isn't sea cliffs. Possibly Erraid and a few nearby places on Mull? Bits and pieces on Skye?

Coll is really nice but not much in E grades.

How about Colonsay? I am actually going there in a few weeks so would be interested in your thoughts!

I think you’ll find the most reliable weather in Scotland is in April and May.

I've not been yet. Mr Taylor wasn't impressed, but he might have been in a bad mood!

I was there for a week in late March. There are some excellent walks but not sure about the climbing? Some of the seacliffs on the west coast are impressive to view. Beaches are stunning and the crossing to Oronsay is a must.

I hoped you had written that bit of the guidebook! Looks enough for a fun 2 or 3 days of esoterica in it. Maybe not hardcore enough for Mr Taylor. I might ask him.

You can walk to the base by continuing a little beyond the sector, walking down a gully where the cliff breaks and then walking back till you are under the sector. I'm pretty certain you can also walk there starting from part way down the path out to the lighthouse though I've not done that before. People only normally abseil because they are lazy :P

2 or 3 days climbing esoteria covers it. There's an impressive steep crag on the NW without any routes on it, but it looked bold E6+ territory to me. Oronsay and seal watching is recommended. 

Hmm, some random thoughts, in no particular order:

Skye: The Cuillin has load of stuff you could do depending on how many pitches your dog will wait patiently for... There is Carn Liath as well, not my cup of tea but certainly ok to leave a dog at the bottom and no problems on the approach (except it being inexplicably long and arduous). 

Orkney: There's a fair amount of stuff on the gullys on Hoy now that is single pitch but it's only Lang Geo main wall where the dog could walk down with you and keep you company at the bottom, the rest of the geos and walls are abseil approach. On Orkney Mainland some of the stuff at Tankerness and Deerness has short, easy scramble descents you get a dog down and large flat areas of rock at the bottom but it's been brought to my attention that I've made the rock quality in these places sound better than it is in the past. Overall I think you would be missing basically all of the best climbing if you were going to Orkney with the idea of a dog-at-belay.

Shetland: Dunno.

Lewis/Harris: Lots of big scarey multipitches where the dog could watch you disappear off into the sea of rock and lots of sea cliffs which wouldn't be suitable... not a lot of what you are looking for from what I remember but I don't know the Outer Hebs intimately.

Mingulay/Pabay: Amazing climbing, you should absolutely go there (after leaving the dog with someone else).

Your comment about reliable weather brought a smile to my face! (it doesn't exist in NW Scotland).

Sounds perfect (except the bold E6 thing....). The plan is to sample the climbing and catch loads of pollock for our tea (following a great similar trip to Islay last September).

Convenient abseil stakes for tying off a dog? Kilt Rock would work too. 

I've had some very changeable weather in the past in the NW, but the good days make it worth it. 

I wondered about Canna,  but couldn't tell from the guide if the bottom of the Crags were flat (ish), or steep (not really dog friendly) banks.

I'd imagine most dog owners would want a crag where the base was easily accessible so that the dog was in view and had sight of the owner for most of the day. I'm not sure how many dog owners would be happy tying their pooch up at the top of a crag and leaving it potentially for and hour or more.

I was joking, but I suppose that if your dog didn't mind it might be good for guarding your kit and deterring other climbers.

Base of Bunkhouse Crag is flatish. House Crag should be ok. 

Wave Crag should be ok.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wave_crag-19176/#photos

Fortress, Corner Crag and Andrew’s Crag are probably best avoided with a dug.

It's not as simple as that. May used to be a good month but in recent years on the west of Scotland May was wetter than other times.

https://www2.sepa.org.uk/rainfall

That sounds promising, thanks for that

Like Cog, was going to suggest Canna - lovely island and some crags that would work (they're not huge or extensive but enough for a few days). Muck also has a couple of inland crags that look like they may work - though I've not climbed there and Cog will have a better idea of the crag surroundings.     

I don't know what grades Frankie boy is looking for. Muck is a nice friendly island and worth a visit but I rate the Coll crags more that the hill crags of Muck.

Rum has some great rock and the dog would have a better walk!

Thanks.  I would be climbing anything up to about E2ish but in all honesty,  i don't mind what i climb so long as it's nice.

I know the weather is never a guarantee but if you were planning a trip there,  when would you go?

I'm free until September so no real worries about having a set time or such, and I'm planning on doing a trip round the North West for a month or so anyway. 

Coll is gneiss and nice.

I'd wait for a good forecast then go. Ferries are a bit difficult these days though.