In reply to Roberttaylor:
Add to the routes mentioned by badmarmot and Ken those on the Contreforts des Bans - some good ones there at about TD/6a-b with a simple, albeit perhaps a bit tedious (in a dry year), approach on a big neve. I found Pas d'Asile pour Pazuzu particularly fun. Great surroundings with le Bans, Bonvoisin, etc.
If you are based in the Ecrins at all, then as badmarmot says, visit the Cerces. But, perhaps also visit the Queyras for a bit of variety. Gradually brits are getting in there for ski-touring in winter (and of course for Ceillac ice), but its quiet in summer. Good routes include the Taillante (for its bizarreness, not necessarily for the quality of the climbing, which is in itself quite repetitive), the ridge on the Toillies and of course Viso (E ridge is worth doing as a long, alpine-esque rock route, doable in boots) - from Viso you should see from the Ecrins to Mont Blanc to Monte Rosa to the med.
The valley climbing around Briancon spans numerous rock types. As mentioned, just get Briancon Climbs and start ticking what takes your fancy. Everything from thuggy limestone (Ponteil) to slabby granite (obv. Ailefroide) to decent conglomerate (nr. Guillestre).
A few comments on the other routes/areas talked about:
- Sialouze is definitely worth doing - perfect rock, sublime scenery, amenable grade, continuous interest, well-equipped descent... what more could you ask for? A bit like the Dibona of the Ailefoide side, insomuch as its the only peak on this side that has that perfect, golden granite. As for the S ridge of the Petit Pelvoux, the descent doesn't really quite fit the novice glacier criteria - the descent of the Violettes is non-trivial, often involving abbing into a schrund etc etc. Look into it yourself though by googling the traverse of pelvoux (same descent) - you may think its fine.
- On the Dibona the route to do, in my opinion, is definitely the Voie des Savoyards. Like the Madier, its not totally equipped (probably a little less in situ stuff than the Madier from what I remember). There will inevitably be hordes on the latter, and for good reason - it too is a quality route. But, the Savoyards definitely feels more of an adventure, taking in different faces of the Dibona as well as having more varied climbing (including some memorable traverses). Visite Obligatoire, whilst involving sustained top quality 6a sport climbing all the way up, is just that - a sport climb. For me, it is therefore immediately less memorable, less fulfilling and less worthwhile. That's not to say its not great fun though! The Nains is a nice easy, short route up the side if that's what fits the bill; it can be nicely combined with a visit to both the Dibona summit and the adjacent Soreiller summit.
- The classic lower-grade route on the Tenailles de Montbrison is Eperon Renaud. Good climb, but the crux pitch is pretty polished now... Great atmosphere and no snow make up for it though.
For big rock routes with little snow approach at about E1 I'm surprised nobody has suggested the Cassin on Badile (to add to the Bregaglia routes listed already). Quite simply wonderful! You won't be alone, but it will be one to remember nonetheless. Do the walk back the next day (either kip in one of the bivi huts after crossing the first col the same day as climbing the route) or, if the wallet allows, stay at the Gianetti - a typically chaotic but lovely Italian hut. Doing the latter allows you to do the Spigolo Vinci the day after the Cassin - another classic. The walk back round to CH isn't as loose/horrible/bad as people make out. To be quite honest, I thought it was really nice and definitely a bonus! Much better than descending the N ridge unless you know it already! If too hard, consider the N ridge for an ascent route - also very good.
My wildcard: the Maritime Alps. One of my very favourite bit of the alps. Much quieter, lovely relaxed people and a bit lost in time. On the Italian side, the Corno Stella is soooo good! 500m face with a ledge at half-height so that different bottom+top half combos are possible. Also means that if the longest routes aren't chosen, two full ascents of the face in a day can be done (or, more easily, 1 full + 1 from the ledge). Simple abseil descent. Ask Marco at the hut for route recommendations. Argentera and Nasta also very good. On the French side, the Cougourde is the place to go! Brilliant routes, a nice lake to camp by (or use the hut). Both sides can be quite busy at weekends, because walkins are short (sub 2 hours) and both are within a few hours' drive of major populations (Nice and Turin). But during the week - dead!