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Russian / Soviet ascent archives

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 Mr. Lee 18 Jan 2018

Can anybody recommend some resources for researching Russian / Soviet ascents for places like Central Asia? A Himalayan Index or AAJ equivalent (or next best thing). I'm familiar with the usual Western European and American resources. My Googling seems to have failed me. Happy to wade through pages of Cyrillic if necessary. Mountains.tos.ru is the best I've found so far. 

 Damo 18 Jan 2018
In reply to Mr. Lee:

You mean for climbs in the Stans? I'm not sure any such resource exists, other than brief mentions in the regular sources you know.

There are some books, like Vladimir Shataev's 'Degrees of Difficulty', which I have, but they're nowhere near comprehensive. I think he's still alive, as he was the keeper of the Snow Leopard list, I think.

Shataev co-wrote a list of all the Pamir-Tian Shan 6000ers in Mountain Review #9, if you have that. It's quite useful, if only to get a handle on what peaks exist - though obviously at least a few of the unclimbed 6000ers have since been climbed.

Good luck trying to get a copy of 'Forbidden Mountains' by Kopylov. It looks great, and was easy to get 15-20 years ago, but you don't see them around now.

Edit:

1. I think the list in the 1996 AJ is the same one as the MR9.

2. If you're interested, I asked Ak-Sai a couple of years ago about group chartering a helicopter to get into the Fedchenko Glacier or Peak Revolution area. They said it was possible but never got back to me with details.

Post edited at 20:53
 L.A. 18 Jan 2018
In reply to Mr. Lee: Bizarrely I was going through my books today to try to clear some out and I came across Vladimir Shataev's 'Degrees of Difficulty' (and I thought I was the only person that ever owned that Damo)

You are welcome to have it for the cost of the postage. I also have the complete set of Mountain Reviews (1-9 ) I could scan the relevant article for you if that helps ?

 Damo 18 Jan 2018
In reply to L.A.:

> Bizarrely ... I thought I was the only person that ever owned that Damo)

I get that a lot

BTW - if anyone has a copy of MR #1 that they don't want and are willing to post to Australia, I'll cover all postage etc.

Post edited at 21:43
 L.A. 18 Jan 2018
In reply to Damo: mail me your address and I`ll send you it  You can buy me a drink if you`re in Ladakh this summer 

Post edited at 21:59
OP Mr. Lee 19 Jan 2018
In reply to L.A.:

Great! I'll gladly take Degrees of Difficulty off you if that's ok. I'll send you a PM. The 1996 AJ is going fairly cheap on Amazon  so no need to scan anything from MR#9. Thanks!

OP Mr. Lee 19 Jan 2018
In reply to Damo:

Cheers for the leads. I'll have to keep an eye out for Forbidden Mountains. One of those books I should have bought when I had the chance. Rather like Shira Shirahata's Karakoram book. 

 Damo 20 Jan 2018
In reply to Mr. Lee:

> ... Rather like Shira Shirahata's Karakoram book. 

Yeh, maybe, dunno. There are loads of copies available at Pilgrims in Kathmandu still (as of last November). That book seemed amazing when it came out, but the photos maybe don't stand up as well as many modern digital mountain shots. There are similar Japanese-published big mountain books where the photography is really quite poor, now that the subjects have lost their uniqueness.

OP Mr. Lee 20 Jan 2018
In reply to Damo:

Haven't seen a copy in over ten years. Could just be a rose tinted glasses thing and times have moved on as you say. 


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