UKC

GROUP TEST: All Round Harnesses

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harness group test montage, 5 kbSince most climbers do a bit of everything, there's a lot to be said for a harness that does too. Over spring and summer 2016 the UKC test team has put ten all-round harnesses through their paces.

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 Col Kingshott 25 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear: Hello,

I own the Arcteryx harness and really like it for all summer situations. However, I used it this winter and won't be using it again. I find that the forward ice screw clipper slots are too far forward and means that screws are catching on your trousers and damaging them on the sharp teeth. I also find the rear ice screw clipper slot too far rearwards. I'm using the size small and find it a great fit. Has anyone else experienced this? I'll be getting a different harness for this winter.

Just my opinion.

Col.

 jezb1 25 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Sadly I agree with the DMM build quality, mine is the fixed leg loop version and it's not wearing well.
 GarethSL 25 Aug 2016
In reply to Col Kingshott:

The forward loops are totally useless and they should really have been placed next to the back loops. But I don't see why you would dismiss it for winter immediately, the position of the other two I find is more than adequate (actually pretty perfect) and the slightly rearwards position keeps the teeth of screws off your thighs.

Out of curiosity I how 'done up' do you have your harness`?

I found that Arcteryx harness' end up very obscure/ uneven with the position of gear loops if they aren't tightened fully. Thus I had to get a size larger than is stated in the size guide (also to accommodate clothing and because the leg loops are freaking tiny) to ensure that everything was distributed evenly.

 Col Kingshott 25 Aug 2016
In reply to GarethSL:

Nah, I find the rear 2 are right round my back and annoying to use. Especially with a bag, everyone is different. Their B360 had a sewn line of screw racking slots on each side, not sure why they dismissed that, I thought it was far more flexible. It's pretty 'done up' and I also tried the size medium. That's too big. I'm dismissing it because I'm not prepared to ruin an expensive pair of trousers. I needed a new summer harness anyway.

I do like everything else about it though.

Col.
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Surprised not to see the BD Aspect in there!
 jonnie3430 27 Aug 2016
In reply to GarethSL:

> because the leg loops are freaking tiny

I went ladies as they have bigger leg loops and smaller waist, maybe worth checking out next time.

 jonnie3430 27 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Strange how every single one of these has adjustable leg loops, winter layers don't that much to a leg. You are better off buying a harness that fits with fixed leg loops than having an unnecessary buckle IMHO. How many top climbers do you see with one of these harnesses, or do they have one with fixed leg loops that fits instead?
 timjones 28 Aug 2016
In reply to jonnie3430:

If you can find one without the silly ziplock buckles you avoid the need to hop about trying to step into your harness.
2
 jonnie3430 28 Aug 2016
In reply to timjones:

Sit down then.
 jonnie3430 28 Aug 2016
In reply to jonnie3430:

Top all-rounders for me at the moment are the petzl hirundos, arteryx fl-365 or fl-355, depending on your leg size or eldrid leaf. I went for the latter and it is just not as good as the old version of the fl-355 that I had. Be back to them when this wears out.
 timjones 28 Aug 2016
In reply to jonnie3430:

> Sit down then.

You'll get a better fit over multiple layers an awful lot easier with adjustable legloops.

I guess that there maybe some people out there with legs that are always the same size, but I find that I can be adjusting my legloops to a considerably smaller size by the end of a decent climbing trip.

Do fixed legloops offer any significant advantages?
 jonnie3430 28 Aug 2016
In reply to timjones:
> Do fixed legloops offer any significant advantages?

No buckle, I found that it was catching on things, in a hanging belay the buckle can dig in to your leg, so tried a fixed leg loop harness all year round, found it to be great and wouldn't go back.
Post edited at 11:37
 Rick Graham 28 Aug 2016
In reply to timjones:

> Do fixed legloops offer any significant advantages?

Yes. jonnie3430 has alluded to many

30 or so years ago, when harnesses were developing from the Whillans era, most leg loops were fixed, with only a few models having buckles.
Crucially, however, it was possible to mix and match belt and leg loops to get a good fit and function as required.
Laterly, the CE/UIAA requires harnesses to be sold complete.
So despite the availability nowadays of hundreds of harness models, getting a harness that fits and has the required features is nearer to impossible than convenient.
So much for progress.

BTW, I voted remain, but this issue may be linked.
 jonnie3430 28 Aug 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

> So despite the availability nowadays of hundreds of harness models, getting a harness that fits and has the required features is nearer to impossible than convenient.

Indeed, would suggest that if the "male," version of a harness doesn't fit as you want, then try the "female," sometimes you get better colours too.

> BTW, I voted remain, but this issue may be linked.

I did too, maybe timjones voted leave?
 timjones 28 Aug 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Yes. jonnie3430 has alluded to many

More like a few

> 30 or so years ago, when harnesses were developing from the Whillans era, most leg loops were fixed, with only a few models having buckles.

Yes I remember those days too

> Crucially, however, it was possible to mix and match belt and leg loops to get a good fit and function as required.

Fortunately adjustable legloops seem to have removed the need to mess about mixing and matching to get a good fit

> Laterly, the CE/UIAA requires harnesses to be sold complete.

> So despite the availability nowadays of hundreds of harness models, getting a harness that fits and has the required features is nearer to impossible than convenient.

I must be very fortunate, the DMM Renegade Pro does the job perfectly for me, but sadly I'll be in tyrouble when mine needs replacing as some muppet seems to have decided that it would be better with ziplock buckles

> So much for progress.

> BTW, I voted remain, but this issue may be linked.
1
 timjones 28 Aug 2016
In reply to jonnie3430:

> I did too, maybe timjones voted leave?

I'm just amazed that anyone can manage to drag the referendum into a discussion on climbing harness design
 Greasy Prusiks 28 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

That arcteryx is silly money for a harness IMO.

Good review though.
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

I have the women's version of the Adjama (the Luna) and, as comfortable as it is it is not suitable for all round- the rear gear loops are tiny! I agree that they sit too far back, but on the women's xs size they can barely fit quickdraws on for a medium size trad route.

V.comfy for dangling be around on sport routes mind.
 Rick Graham 28 Aug 2016
In reply to timjones:

> I'm just amazed that anyone can manage to drag the referendum into a discussion on climbing harness design

That was me!

jonnie just made it personal by presuming your vote
 timjones 28 Aug 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

> That was me!

> jonnie just made it personal by presuming your vote

2 months after the vote and people are still trying to score points over it
1
 Rick Graham 28 Aug 2016
In reply to timjones:

> 2 months after the vote and people are still trying to score points over it

Au contrair.

The CE/EN/uiaa regulations are why if I buy, say, a new set of quickdrawers, I need to spend more time removing duplicated info sheets( unread ) than doing a final visible check on their safe construction before use.

For harnesses, it means that shops will stock mainly "fully adjustable " models for simplicity in stock management and potential sales.
In the 70's and 80's, it was possible for the customer to mix and match, to get the best harness for their requirements in fit and function.
 Rick Graham 28 Aug 2016
In reply to timjones:

> 2 months after the vote and people are still trying to score points over it

I guess you voted leave then
 timjones 28 Aug 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

> I guess you voted leave then

Feck off you nosey barsteward

All I'm saying is that it's time to look forward rather than backwards at a 2 month old vote
 timjones 28 Aug 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Au contrair.

> The CE/EN/uiaa regulations are why if I buy, say, a new set of quickdrawers, I need to spend more time removing duplicated info sheets( unread ) than doing a final visible check on their safe construction before use.

> For harnesses, it means that shops will stock mainly "fully adjustable " models for simplicity in stock management and potential sales.

> In the 70's and 80's, it was possible for the customer to mix and match, to get the best harness for their requirements in fit and function.

Do you think things would have been different if we hadn't joined the EU or that they will change because we are leaving?
1
 Rick Graham 28 Aug 2016
In reply to timjones:
> Do you think things would have been different if we hadn't joined the EU

Yes. I think the EU progressed the presentation and certification of harness ATM. I am all for "safe" products but this has lead to the situation where we are not allowed to tie knots in slings or use differently sourced harness components.

> or that they will change because we are leaving?

That's politics, which I rarely get involved with on here.
Post edited at 13:54
1
 timjones 28 Aug 2016
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Yes. I think the EU progressed the presentation and certification of harness ATM. I am all for "safe" products but this has lead to the situation where we are not allowed to tie knots in slings or use differently sourced harness components.

You're too compliant, I regularly tie knots in slings. I might just swap the legloops from my BD Big Gun to my DMM Renegade later on too

> That's politics, which I rarely get involved with on here.

There has never been a better time to get engage with our politicians as they shape the future of the country. Maybe here isn't the place but it's certainly worth engaging with our representatives over the next few years. If we don't we'll just see peoplet claiming that our own government is undemocratic in the same way that they moaned about the undemocratic EU

And before you make any assumptions I'd better point out that had the vote gone the other way I would have been saying that it was time to fully engage with the EU
 Rick Graham 28 Aug 2016
In reply to timjones:

> You're too compliant, I regularly tie knots in slings.

So do I I even use a single fishermans knot for climbing slings if it suits me.

Compliant. pah! not me.

At 63, I have finally realised that what I hate is pompous authority, and react against it.
Consensus should be the objective.

 springfall2008 28 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

I was suprised they missed them DMM renegade 2 harness in this review, I just switched over to one and it's excellent for both sports and Trad climbing...
In reply to springfall2008:

> I was suprised they missed them DMM renegade 2 harness in this review, I just switched over to one and it's excellent for both sports and Trad climbing...

I agree. Three proper, well positioned gear loops on each side. Most harnesses only have two which is inadequate for a big rack.
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Anyone tried the wild Country mission? There two gripes with the synchro were extra faffy gear loops and excess weight. The mission seems to get rid of both of these problems
In reply to CharlieMack:

> Anyone tried the wild Country mission? There two gripes with the synchro were extra faffy gear loops and excess weight. The mission seems to get rid of both of these problems.

It only has two gear loops on each side, thus losing the main selling point of the Synchro (the original Synchro was brilliant).

 Rob Morgan 29 Aug 2016
In reply to CharlieMack:

I have the new Synchro and like it. I find the gear loops less faffy than the DMM Renegade (which is comparable by number of gear loops). I think a lot of this stuff is down to personal preference.
 Wendy Watthews 29 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

Is there a reason all the harnesses are now ziplock? I prefer a double back but am struggling to find any I like other than beginners or dedicated alpine harness that have them. Fixed legs also seem to be everywhere personally I like to take my harness to pieces and fit it on especially in winter when stepping in if already in crampons is a pain.
 Morgan Woods 29 Aug 2016
In reply to UKC/UKH Gear:

I'm not sure why the reviewer would want to wear a thick leather belt at the same time as a climbing harness....that just seems daft, especially when you are trying to assess fit and comfort.
 timjones 29 Aug 2016
In reply to Morgan Woods:

> I'm not sure why the reviewer would want to wear a thick leather belt at the same time as a climbing harness....that just seems daft, especially when you are trying to assess fit and comfort.

I always wear a thick leather belt when climbing, it stops my trousers falling down

Unless you wear your trouser waistband absurdly high then it is never going to interfere with a well fitted harness.

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