UKC

Moac wedges wanted

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Mike Lates 31 Jul 2021

It's been a few years since I last had to ask but does anyone have any old Moac wedges spare that I can buy please? It's the longer style I'm looking for to be threaded onto cord; approx 4cm by3cm by 2cm??)

Still the best nut in the world imho but mainly because I'm silly superstitious and feel naked without one

Huge thanks in advance, Mike

 biggianthead 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

Ditto.

I lost mine 10 years ago. So if there is two going I'm also in the market!

Phil

 Pedro50 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

Always a pleasure to root through the old gear box. How much is  Moac worth? Feel free to make an offer.


 Lankyman 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Pedro50:

Hmmm .... nut porn

 Matt Podd 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

You'll be lucky - Mike the B*stard

I've stopped climbing now, and having just looked at my old rack (can't bring myself to dump it) unfortunately my Moac has gone.

Great Nut Barney Brailsfords best work! Saves one on Mot Superdirect and Capitol Punishment.

Ah Bethesda days! Who'd have thought of it as a world heritage site?

 Mike Lates 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Pedro50:

Hi Pedro

Can I send you a crisp tenner in an envelope or something similar for the moac? 

You can keep the rope if it's got sentimental value😉

Hugely appreciated

Mike

 Mike Lates 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Matt Podd:

Glad to hear your still rattling even if not rattling your nuts up naked rock any more. Do UNESCO make good coffee? 

 Rick Graham 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

> It's been a few years since I last had to ask but does anyone have any old Moac wedges spare that I can buy please? It's the longer style I'm looking for to be threaded onto cord; approx 4cm by3cm by 2cm??)

The square moac iirc was delightfully imperial in size.

Top, 1.5*1.0 inches.

Base 1.0*0.5 inches.

Two inch tall.

Think I have one spare , but not in as good nick as Pedro's .  If anybody is interested, I can email a photo , easiest if you contact me via UKC.

 Offwidth 31 Jul 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

Sorry Mike, I only have one and use it to show off to people on occasion.

 moac 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

moac - has to be the best!

 biggianthead 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Rick Graham:

Rick,

I'm interested. I'll email you

Phil

 Pedro50 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

> Hi Pedro

> Can I send you a crisp tenner in an envelope or something similar for the moac? 

> You can keep the rope if it's got sentimental value😉

> Hugely appreciated

> Mike

That's more than generous, will pm to arrange.

 fischer 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

I also have one of these on red rope; and aTroll hex 5 if anyone is interested. And a load of other old rubbish.

Post edited at 10:50
 johncook 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Pedro50:

That is a copy. The original MOAC has rounded corners!

2
 Pedro50 01 Aug 2021
In reply to johncook:

Well I posted a picture so that people could make up their own minds. I do remember rounded corners. Is mine a fake? Was it the same manufacturer? Is it still a Moac?

 Ian Parsons 01 Aug 2021
In reply to Pedro50:

> Well I posted a picture so that people could make up their own minds. I do remember rounded corners. Is mine a fake? Was it the same manufacturer? Is it still a Moac?


No - not a fake; just the later version.

In reply to johncook:

This MOAC ad shows straight edges

Post edited at 12:42

In reply to ericinbristol:

I remember them with rounded edges, I’ll have to go to the loft and find mine to check.

Originally made by Ellis Brigham designed by John Brailsford.

https://verticalarchaeology.com/2015/07/09/moac-nuts/

In reply to Mike Lates:

If you are still looking for more, I have a neighbour that had moacs. I was selling his gear for him after he had retired from climbing and remember selling some awhile ago. Can’t remember if all the moacs were sold though.

He is currently on holiday, but I can have a word with him after he gets back if you want and see what he still has?

 Mike Lates 05 Aug 2021
In reply to Pedro50:

Received with thanks Peter and definitely the real deal!

 Al Randall 05 Aug 2021
In reply to Christheclimber:

Original MOAC definitely had rounded edges.

Al

 LastBoyScout 05 Aug 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

I remember MOACs - my old neighbour, who taught me climbing, had a few on his rack. I remember placing them a few times.

Don't think he's in any rush to get rid of them, though.

 Wally 05 Aug 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

I've got one I use regularly. It's my dads old one which I have kept. My climbing mates love it - 'Hang a house off that' they say.

In reply to Mike Lates:

I still have at least three but I'm afraid I'm keeping them for my old(er) age. They're brilllant though I'm pretty sure a similar size Rock etc would actually be even better. AFAIK modern wedge-shaped nuts are all on wire, which usually necessitates an extra krab and extender: personally I'd prefer larger wedges to be on cord.

 wercat 05 Aug 2021
In reply to oldie:

any climber with a moac is able to think themselves  "hung" among climbers ...

In reply to johncook:

What??? Mine is exactly like Pedro's. A fake? all these years, I feel sick to the core!

Sorry, mine isn't for sale. Perfect for long mountain routes

 LastBoyScout 05 Aug 2021
In reply to oldie:

> AFAIK modern wedge-shaped nuts are all on wire, which usually necessitates an extra krab and extender: personally I'd prefer larger wedges to be on cord.

I've got a set of Wild Country rocks and, IIRC, a few DMM Wallnuts on Dyneema - I'd have to check the sizes, but I think they go down to about #6.

I've also got a set of Camp Hexcentrics on cord/tape - admittedly, the #1 on 4mm cord is only ever used as a keyring You used to be able to buy them loose.

In reply to LastBoyScout:

Do you know if the Rocks, Wallnuts or other wedges are still sold for cord/Dyneema ?  I remember not finding any offered by suppliers and they are not mentioned on the WC and DMM websites. DMM and presumably other hexs are still available on cord.

 LastBoyScout 06 Aug 2021
In reply to oldie:

I doubt it - I've not seen any sold on cord for years, let alone loose, in the UK. I remember seeing bins of loose Hexes in a shop in Cortina, once - pic'n'mix for climbers!

Mine all date back to ~1990-2000, I think, when I was originally building up my rack. Probably went out of favour when wires came in, as they could be fiddly to place/remove as the cord is obviously much thicker and not as stiff, but then they could be less likely to flick out, too. Maybe also issues with getting them re-strung, as Spectra (as it was then) had a reputation for being tricky to tie.

I really like them on easier routes - lighter than wires, as you only need 1 krab on them and not 2 and an extender. I moved to wires for preference on harder routes, as easier to find the right size in a hurry when you've got several sizes on one krab.

Even hexes aren't on cord these days - they're mainly on pre-sewn slings now, as Dyneema slings don't work well with tape knots.

You might find some on eBay, or such.

 LastBoyScout 06 Aug 2021
In reply to LastBoyScout:

Bingo: eBay items 144139124259 and 174769127056

Post edited at 00:36
In reply to Mike Lates:

You're out of luck, I'm afraid, Mike, because although I have two, both perlon threaded, the oldest being an original rounded one dating from 1967, they're worth an awful lot of money. In fact I've recently had the earlier one valued by an expert (myself) and you may be surprised to hear that it's worth quite close to £1m.

 LastBoyScout 06 Aug 2021
In reply to LastBoyScout:

Just had a rummage and I've got Rocks #6-#10 and a Wallnut #8 - thought I had more than that.

No idea if it's still there, but many years ago I left a Hex #6 on cord hammered into a crack somewhere up the Devil's Kitchen when we were forced to retreat from a route.

 Myfyr Tomos 06 Aug 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

Had a rummage through the cupboards and found an assortment of Moacs, Clogs, Chouinard, and Camp wedges. Wired and cord. Happy days.

Post edited at 09:53

 Phil Kelly 06 Aug 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

A few years back I saw two ammunition boxes full to the brim with MOACs and another with baby MOACs….

In reply to Al Randall:

> Original MOAC definitely had rounded edges.

> Al

Do you think they stopped rounding the edges because they thought it was an improvement of just to save on manufacturing cost/effort.

 Al Randall 06 Aug 2021
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

No idea!

 johncook 06 Aug 2021
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Sounds good. I have three that I still use on a regular basis. Must get them sold. Will take the first 1/2 million!

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Talk about twinly thinking: I was about to say more or less the same thing. Except I am not quite sure what my Moac is worth. I would have to weigh it carefully - in carats!

 Doug 06 Aug 2021
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Means the box of ancient moacs,  hexes & other 70s gear in the cellar might be worth a few million

 MisterPiggy 06 Aug 2021
In reply to Christheclimber:

Thanks for posting a link to vertical archeology - fascinating site !

j

 PaulJepson 06 Aug 2021
In reply to Al Randall:

What incarnation are these? http://www.smhc.co.uk/objects_item.asp?item_id=32717

There was a chap selling a load still with the Joe Brown price tag on a while back and I got a couple (the rationale being that I had a spare in case I lost one, which is obviously flawed because I'm clearly never actually going to take it up a route). 

Mike, if you are still looking for one and this is the right kind, send me a pm. Would love for it to finally get a go on some rock after all these years. 

 Al Randall 06 Aug 2021
In reply to PaulJepson:

Top pictures  look like originals. The multiple ones shown down the page are not.

 PaulJepson 06 Aug 2021
In reply to Al Randall:

Ah it's the non-original one I have then. 

Sharp angles rather than rounded ones tend to be harder to clean I think, so weird if they went from rounded to sharp from a design point of view. Expect it was just cheaper/easier to cast them like that.

In reply to PaulJepson:

The sharp-edged ones were a bit less versatile to place.

 Mike Lates 07 Aug 2021
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

<you're out of luck, I'm afraid, Mike, because although I have two, both perlon threaded, the oldest being an original rounded one dating from 1967, they're worth an awful lot of money. In fact I've recently had the earlier one valued by an expert (myself) and you may be surprised to hear that it's worth quite close to £1m.

Now what are you going to do with that million? You'll only blow it on this year's model of Talisker or something surely

Far better that it goes to a good home in the best mountains in Britain no? 

In reply to Mike Lates:

I don't want the million, and I want to keep the MOAC. Its best final home would probably be the British Museum.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> The sharp-edged ones were a bit less versatile to place.

File them down yourself?

 Rick Graham 10 Aug 2021
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

> File them down yourself?

I used to have both styles of moac back in the day . I actually found the newer square model more useful on the crag.

I only filed the edges down on some moacs after cutting them down to get a smaller size . Some friends cut theirs in half to get two nuts.

I also knew some climbers called Mark and Fred who did file their moacs and ended up with shapes suspiciously like Rocks and Walnuts.

In reply to Rick Graham:

I had an old style hexagon (hexcentrics didn't exist then) that had been cut down to the exact taper of a MOAC (crag swag)......more useful than the hexagons but not quite as useful as a MOAC.

 LastBoyScout 11 Aug 2021
In reply to LastBoyScout:

Just seen this one in my feed, too: 144139119765

 Myfyr Tomos 11 Aug 2021
In reply to Mike Lates:

Have messaged you Mike.


This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...