UKC

Yo everyone, I'm new to foruming... If that's even a word... I'm looking for advice on large protection as iv developed a penchant for grunting up wide cracks! I have cams upto around 120mm and am looking to invest in some bigger gear... I know there are friends 5 and 6 but I am struggling to find any, and I have seen tube type chocks, mainly trango big bros but I don't know anyone who has used them...

So... 

Has anyone ever ever used the big bro, or the Kong gipsy and what is the verdict on these? They look neat and rack able... 

And... Has anyone ever seen or used Valley Giant cams In this country? Iv heard they are legendary but cannot find any anywhere to play with...

Any info much appreciated, thanks

The size 7 Tricam or 'the trebuchet' as I lovingly dubbed mine works well for fist-hand width and OK for upto fist-fist width.

TIC reply:

https://images.google.co.nz/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chockstone.org%2...

Thanks.. . I have a few smaller tricams and like them... Are the big ones stable or difficult to place? Fair bit cheaper than an slcd too.... Cheers

Good link, cheers

New DMM dragons out soon covering up to 195mm

Kong gipsy needs a parallel sided crack for a stable placement.  Not good in flared stuff.  They are a bit faffy to place compared to cams but half the price.  I have placed one but never fallen on it and don't plan to!

I think valley giants are made to order so you are unlikely to see many in the wild.

Ah.. I thought they, the gipsys, looked a bit picky how they sit... I do a lot of gritstone stuff so parallel sides are rare! They're off the list, cheers

Now a dragon upto 195mm sounds useful! 

I enjoyed quite a few years climbing off widths prior to anything bigger than a Friend 4. The easy solution was homemade nuts made out of a bit of timber cut at the base of the climb (essentially a big hex and climbers have used timber wedges for years prior) all you need is some 3" x 4" a saw and a sling or 2 to larks foot around the timber. 

The bigger ones are far easier to place and remove than the small ones (as you can usually get your whole hand into the placement). But the three biggest tricams have a different  design to save weight.... which means the fulcrum is quite narrow.  So in some placements the big ones can be less stable the smaller ones (particularly at the top end of their expansion range in smooth sided placements). 

Yeah, sounds like at least one big bro on the rack would be a good idea Jon... Sounds like they are reliable enough... Does anyone know where I could get one? Probably a no. 3...

Cheers for the replies everyone????

Ah... A thumbs up emoji turns into a row of question marks I see... Didn't know that... 

Best protection I've found is to send my mate up those pitches.

I managed to buy 2 second hand  5 & 6 size cams for less than £100 for both and pretty much new. One of the best investments I've made.

I had been climbing for 20 years and have never tried many off widths for the simple reason I could never protect them, now all off widths are on, even the super hard ones, Gigglin Crack, Ray's Roof etc. You can tame them by placing one of these beauties in! 

So keep your eyes open they can be found or try posting on the "wanted forum" on here.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114075842/merlin-8?page=2#Forum...

Those look gorgeous.  I'm almost tempted to take up horrific offwidths so I have an excuse to get one.

Black Diamond make number 5 and 6 cams, which are considerably cheaper than the WC equivalents. I'm happy with mine. 

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2720258/Valley-Giants

Cheers everyone for the ace links and opinions.. I got a camalot 6 I found at a gooood price, which iv placed a few times today on grit and seems solid, stable, not fallen on it yet, though I'm sure I will soon! Also I will get my hands on a no. 3 big bro... Somehow...

Niceone

Big Bro #4-

I have one. Nearly twice the size of my #6 Camalot!