UKC

Hello All,

I plan to climb Tryfan via the north ridge on Friday, but the weather forecast looks pretty naff!

Met Office "bright with a few showers possibly heavy"

I've done this route twice before and learnt the hard way how easy it is to stray into grade 2, so I feel confident navigating. However, I plan on taking my sister and teenage nieces for their first 'proper' scramble (sticking to grade 1), and I'm not 100% certain that it is a sensible idea if it rains.

I'm reasonably confident they could do it in the dry, being proficient hillwalkers and having already done some lesser scrambles with them—namely Foxes Rake Gully (Scafell) and Striding and Swirral Edge (Helvellyn). Still, I would like some advice on whether it would be a bad idea to attempt it if the rocks are wet.

Glad to hear your thoughts!

I've done it maybe 4-5 times, including when it was a little bit icy and snowy, and I've got slightly misplaced (let's say; not fully lost) in the fog up there, but found my way back on route fairly easily (in hindsight).

I wouldn't want my first time up there to be in the rain, though I would probably do it in the rain now myself if I 'had to' (can't imagine those circumstances!). I'd probably be more worried about wind and visibility. What's the wind forecast and cloud level height?

Could you drive to the valley and take a look at the weather there and then? Try and make a judgement on if it is bright and clear at that time? It doesn't take long to get to the top does it so you might time it ok, and the way back down the other side is easier so I'd be less worried about rain. If the weather doesn't look great you could go up the other side of the valley which is less scambley.

I'd be happy doing that it in wet and even wild windy weather. But the question is really about who you are taking not you or me. Would they enjoy worst case... chucking rain on a grade 2 scramble (sections of G2), or will it put them off?

You must be worrying about that to be asking... Tryfan North ridge grade 1/2 is down to route finding and likely a nervous person will regard bits as grade 2 (all be it very short bits if route is good)

​​​​​​Maybe come up via Bwlch Tryfan (go up south peak *before* the wall if coming from Ogwen). It's still going to be a good walk for the less experienced.

The real risk is locating the correct route in descent. Easy to stray too far to the west side lower down and end up in all sorts of trouble. Friction is ok in the wet as I've done both Grooved Arete and Gashed Crag in the pouring rain. Be mindful not to stray onto the Climbers' Path on the way up, so keep right.

It does get very slippery in places  when wet - much more fun when dry! Personally I'd choose something else eg Gribin/Seniors ridge 

It's horrible in the wet, especially the polished slabby bits. And the descent of the S Ridge can be awkward when wet.

The Carnedds are a better option in poor weather, IMO.

Does it have to be Tryfan? If you want something scrambly but less complicated then Gribin Ridge is a good suggestion already. Or look at Daear Ddu (Moel Siabod). It's slippy in the wet but you can avoid most of the scrambling, so it'd be good for an iffy day which might turn out rainy or might not.

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/logbook/r/?i=119

I don't know if I'd fancy the awkward and polished down-climby bit in the rain. 

I think I did Crib Lem Spur (Llech Ddu Spur) (Grade-1) in pretty slippery (winter but not iced up) conditions and remember it being okay. 

Surely this has the risks of turning into a bad day out.  Irrespective of whether it is do-able in the rain, I am envisaging a situation where people are moving slowly, wet cold hands feeling insecure on the rock, people getting miserable and so on.

If this is their first scramble why not wait a while and do it in enjoyable conditions that are safer and more likely to see them coming back for more?

Agree completely.

Dave

Thanks all for the helpful advice!

I definitely don't want to put them off scrambling by taking up anything they aren't comfortable with.

I think our best bet is to go, judge the weather once we are there, and fall back on Gribin Ridge if the weather isn't great.

Here's to a great day out, rain or no rain!

If it's significantly rainy, I imagine people struggling with their enthusiasm - particularly novices with leaky waterproofs or rubbish boots and less hill fitness. Personally, I would have less than zero enthusiasm... Better than expected weather? Go for it. Worse than expected? Low level walk, cafe and climbing wall!

A rain day alternative we used some time back was a variation of Snakes & Ladders in the slate mines up the hill from Llanberis. Great day out and plenty of bypasses if you decide the ladders or chain climbs are too much. I'd wear a helmet throughout, rope is optional depending on what you do in there.

Snakes and Ladders (and chains) (VF1A)

My first time in the ridge was in rain (weather crapped out part way up) and by the end it was a fairly miserable experience. The rock wasn't especially slippy but in low mist we got off route and was on rather harder terrain than I'd have liked, and every time you lifted your arm to a hold the rain flooded up your arm to ensure you were thoroughly soaked.

Knowing the route would certainly be an advantage, but even so you could easily put people off by taking them up when the weather is filthy.

I've arrived at a point in life where I recognise that some of the things I used to regard as exciting and adventurous are actually a miserable day out with no views and soaking wet clothes. Add to that the responsibility of looking after a couple of youngsters, then I'd have to ask myself why?

Save it for a nice day