In reply to gravy:
Reaching down after doing the crux of a route and blocking the crucial hold with a piece of gear is a good trick apparently.
I remember a bloke a black rocks telling me that the Promontory Traverse would be easy as he had led an E5 that morning. Anyway I seem to remember there was some rests/falls try to go into the wide section on the first pitch. I did it afterwards and got in the crack and layed down and squirmed up, easy for a punter
Also a spotted someone who found the VS jamming crack the hardest bit of Shine On (E7 6c).
Post edited at 10:25