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Harder for the talented

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 gravy 29 Jul 2023

Sod the rest of the "hard for the ..." threads - all I'm interested in is a list of sandbags for the talented so I can annoy my stronger climbing partners. 

So I want a list of climbers that are hard for good climbers and easy for bumbling punters. A chocolate hob-nob for the best suggestion.

4
 David Bowler 29 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

Anything called Green Chimney might slow them down.

 Andy Hardy 29 Jul 2023
 gribble 29 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

The File, Higgar Tor. Seems to slow down some good sport climbers.. 

 Michael Hood 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gribble:

> The File, Higgar Tor. Seems to slow down some good sport climbers.. 

In the same vein Bond Street (HVS 5a)

Removed User 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

> Sod the rest of the "hard for the ..." threads - all I'm interested in is a list of sandbags for the talented so I can annoy my stronger climbing partners. 

> So I want a list of climbers that are hard for good climbers and easy for bumbling punters. A chocolate hob-nob for the best suggestion.

Dig out your old guide to Stanage and point the hotshots to Little things and Paved vacuum as a pair of VS warm ups. Ensure that you limber up on other routes at the grade.

 Sam Beaton 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

My E5 leading belayer took twice as long to second Peapod at Curbar as I took to lead it (at pretty much my limit)

 doz 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

I find really hammering the nuts in and over-camming all the cams slows them down...but make sure to use their rack

 Brass Nipples 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

If by stronger you mean strong, pick routes that rely on balance, flexibility and technique where strength doesn’t help.

 mike123 30 Jul 2023
In reply to doz:

> I find really hammering the nuts in and over-camming all the cams slows them down...but make sure to use their rack

An old climbing partner of mine had / has various identities on here. Hmmmmm……

 Graeme Hammond 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

Reaching down after doing the crux of a route and blocking the crucial hold with a piece of gear is a good trick apparently.

I remember a bloke a black rocks telling me that the Promontory Traverse would be easy as he had led an E5 that morning. Anyway I seem to remember there was some rests/falls try to go into the wide section on the first pitch. I did it afterwards and got in the crack and layed down and squirmed up, easy for a punter

Also a spotted someone who found the VS jamming crack the hardest bit of Shine On (E7 6c)

Post edited at 10:25
 Cheese Monkey 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

Untying from one half rope and passing it around a tree and retying so one rope is on each side of the tree

Post edited at 10:52
 kipper12 30 Jul 2023
In reply to doz:

I’m certain hammering them hard in the nuts would slow anyone down

 kipper12 30 Jul 2023
In reply to doz:

I find really hammering the nuts in and over-camming all the cams slows them down...but make sure to use their Rack 

im certain hammering them hard in the nuts would slow them down🤣

 LeeWood 30 Jul 2023
In reply to kipper12:

> I’m certain hammering them hard in the nuts would slow anyone down

I've just come to read this straight from viewing a nuthatch on the suspended feeder outside

In reply to gravy:

Just take the boulderers crack climbing

1
 dinodinosaur 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

Anything requiring old skool boldness. Most of the lake District is a prime example. Theres a reason climbers go to pembroke and North Wales for their hardest leads.

Anything with an offwidth crack Fallen Block Crack (VS 4c)

Also I've reportedly heard of 8a climbers getting shut down on Bow Wall (E2 5b)

2
 Kevster 30 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

There's that crack/caving expedition at birchen. Emma's crack? Only a mod or severe or similar. But a wide set of shoulders may struggle. Especially if you tell them it's a cold belay at the top so take a jacket and approach shoes for the way back down. 

In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

If they are in to crack climbing, take them to Brimham rocks and let them enjoy the delights of Charming Crack, The Brutaliser and Felicity.

 overdrawnboy 31 Jul 2023
In reply to John Stainforth:

I was about to suggest Brutalizer 😅 

As a skinny fresher I burnt off a team of barrel chested stars. Alas I suspect I'd not fit it so well nowadays.

 robate 31 Jul 2023
In reply to gravy:

A pal turned up at Stanege back in the old days, early 80s, with a lad who had done one vs before or something. But he took one look at Archangel and went straight up it, no rope, on sight, no hesitation. I reckon this is the definitive harder for the talented route.

In reply to overdrawnboy:

Well I burnt off a lot of my own skin on these! I certainly failed on one of these, and only got up another on a very tight rope.


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