In reply to deacondeacon:
The Glen is always worth a look. Aesthetically flawed but excellent climbing and right next to the car. Lots to do, mixture of short soloing and bouldering. The classic 7a/+s are Parker and Red Baron, and there's maybe a chance Green Traverse will be dry.
I particularly recommend Vim (classic 6b high barn-door arete) Manson's Wall (slightly scary crimpy 6c wall) and Millstone Grip (very scary crimpy 6c wall). Don't start at the pub end, it's an even more of acquired taste than the main bit round Red Baron and Glen Arete.
Sadly I'm busy all day.