Got a week booked in Cornwall in August. Going with family. My wife doesn't climb any more due to injury but is a willing belayer. So, if I'm to climb down there it preferably needs to be sport so I can lower off and strip gear without the faff of abbing off etc. Also preferably with easy access (again due to wife's injury issues.) I'm from the North east and totally unfamiliar with climbing in Cornwall except that I know it's famous for it's fabulous climbing but (as far as I know) not very known for sport routes? Staying near St Ives but willing to drive a fair way. Any suggestions please?
Bouldering may be your friend - there's Clodgy within a short walk of the town.
Sport happens mostly in Devon. There is a bunch of bolted routes around the Cheesewring and Luxulyan, but they're a PITA to get to from where you'll be.
There should be locals happy to come out for the day - I won't be around, but put something up on the partners forum and you ought to be ok.
No sport within easy reach, but there's plenty of single pitch trad with easy access that doesn't wander around too much. Sennen, St Loy, and many of the S Coast smaller crags. On the Lizard, you have Hollywood Walls, and a fair clutch of routes around Lizard Point itself or Trewavas a granite crag, easy of access and non-tidal. Good bouldering and single pitch at Aire Point close to the excellent surf and sand beach of Gwynver near Sennen.
Yeah don't bother with sport climbing in Cornwall. The sports routes in Luxulyan will be ming as they always are (and that's coming from Luxy's biggest fan!), the stuff in Cheesewring is good, but weird and stays wet. Plus you'll need to drive away from all the good local crags already mentioned to get to it. Staying west is good advice.
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