UKC

The Breck (Wirral) - Bolting Discussion

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 Wile E. Coyote 11 Mar 2010
There is currently a discussion going on regarding the possibility of bolting the Overhanging Wall at The Breck in Wallasey (Wirral). So far there has been a fairly positive response from the Facebook group; who only represent part of the Breck users. So if there is anyone in the UKC community that uses the Breck and has an opinion on this matter, please let us know. We need to find as many people as possible, either for or against, before any further action can be taken.

As it stands not many people use the Breck and out of the few that do go there, only a very small number actually use the Overhanging Wall (mainly due to it's bouldering difficulty/lack of protection). If it was bolted, not only would it open the wall up to people that use the Breck, it will hopefully encourage more people to go climbing there.

The Breck on UKC - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1628


The Breck Wiki - http://doggiedoofiver.wetpaint.com/


The Breck Lovers page on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=20733733642&ref=search&sid=71...


Thanks


G
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: Evening bump.
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: Portland saw a good benefit and I never saw many brave enough to go without a top rope (including me about early 90's and I still set up belay on the fence rather than the bolts in the concrete as I saw the depth of drilling hehe!).

Whether it would detract from the actual funkiness of bouldering I don't know.
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: Also the question is - how do the neighbours that live above feel about more traffic?

I've had stuff thrown over me and abuse when climbing on bluebell (mainly one chap).
In reply to grumpybearpantsclimbinggoat: Yeah, I think the guy that threw stuff at you is the same guy that chucks all his garden waste over into the Breck (Bluebell Wall side). I haven't got time for him I'm afraid.

Thanks for your input
 Ben Farley 12 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: Nice one for raising this topic. I rarely climb at the place, although I climb obsessively at pretty much every other bit of Chshire/Merseyside sandstone. I don't have problems with the idea of rebolting the back wall, it may allow or encourage a bit more use of the the only decent bit of the Breck (in my opinion of course).

I've discussed this with Duncan many times, as well as with lots of other people at various guidebook meetings, the wall, Pex etc and I can't think of anyone who's been especially negative about the idea. Given that there are some excellent climbs on the back wall and few people go near them these days, some bolts may open it up a bit. It's not like it's a beautiful, natural crag is it? As for noise, I can't see the people living above the wall really being upset. For one thing, bolts and lower offs will stop people having to hand traverse across the top of the wall.
 paul mitchell 13 Mar 2010
In reply to Ben Farley: Just because few people climb a route is no excuse to bolt it.The route has been done without bolts;respect the first ascensionist.Get better and solo the route or leave it alone.
In reply to Wile E. Coyote:

Depends how well the bolts are placed. If you place 2 half way up the wall in a horizontal line, Or at least high enough that if they fall from the last move they're not gonna deck, then I think it would be good. Otherwise like the person above me has said you could loose part of the feeling of the wall.
 martin heywood 13 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote:

Thanks for letting me know about the Facebook page!
I have mixed feelings about bolting. On the one hand it might bring people who would keep the place a bit cleaner (Mike Collins was always pretty alone in this respect) and help produce some more steel fingered climbing gods ( Pex doesn't quite cut the mustard ) On the other hand, it seems a bit, well, wrong after all this time and what would it be, maybe 6 or 7 bolts in all?
I guess I wouldn't object but if there are even a few dissenters then I will support them.
Cheers
 Mike Nolan 13 Mar 2010
For anyone against bolting: I'm not being funny, but surely bolts allow the best of both worlds? The route will get some traffic for a change. There is no law that states if bolts are there, you must use them, so if you want to climb the route as it was originally put up, go for it, nothing is stopping you from doing so!

I don't see why people are so bothered about bolts being put in, they are unobtrusive and you only have to take notice of them if you are using them!

Bolts would open up harder climbing and very good routes at The Breck, to us people who may not want to risk falling that far.

Incase you hadn't already guessed.

I'm all for bolting at The Breck, I might even start climbing there after school if it gets a bit cleaner!
In reply to Mike Nolan: Good to hear it Mike. Have you joined the facebook group? We have the spring clean details up on the discussions page.
 Mike Nolan 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: Yup, I joined before.
 Enty 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Mike Nolan:
> For anyone against bolting: I'm not being funny but surely bolts allow the best of both worlds? The route will get some traffic for a change. There is no law that states if bolts are there, you must use them, so if you want to climb the route as it was originally put up, go for it, nothing is stopping you from doing so!
>
> I don't see why people are so bothered about bolts being put in, they are unobtrusive and you only have to take notice of them if you are using them!
>

Yes you are....

Enty
 jonnie3430 14 Mar 2010
Surely top roping (redpointing,) would allow those that don't want to take the fall to experience the route with a better margin of safety than if it was bolted?

That way the rock is the same as after the first acensionists and the climbs are getting done.
 Al Evans 14 Mar 2010
In reply to jonnie3430: Have you been to The Breck, top roping without annoying the residents would be very difficult, the climbs finish virtually in their gardens.
 Chris the Tall 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Enty:
We all accept that placing bolts does affect trad climbing, and the "you don't have to clip them" argument is nonsense, but if these routes are usually soloed, then Mike Nolan does have a point - you can still solo them free from temptation.

OK you could make the same point about the slabs at Froggatt, but lets be serious, the Breck isn't anything special. I'd say it's the worst place I've ever climbed - admittedly my one and only visit was 25 years ago, but I doubt it's improved dramatically.

So the only real question is whether a bit of extra traffic would make life better or worse for the local climbers. If the guy flytipping is a problem, he should be reported. Would the local youths be more or less of an issue ?
 tim carruthers 14 Mar 2010
No. Definitely not. These routes/ problems were all soloed back in the day, i.e. pre-mats. If you want to do them, get brave, stack a few mats and go for it, don't bolt them. By the way, Chris the Tall, The Breck IS very special to some people.
 pneame 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote:
I'd be rather saddened by bolts - the Breck is an "urban crag" and deserves just as much respect as a "mountain crag". So, instead of sheep s### and the occasional falling rock, you have broken glass and local yobbos. It deserves the same respect as any other crag - in the UK this generally means that the original style is the approved style.
i.e. no bolts
 alan edmonds 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Chris the Tall:
> (In reply to Enty)
> the Breck isn't anything special....

Well it propelled Al Rouse into something special!
 martin heywood 14 Mar 2010
In reply to tim carruthers:
> No. Definitely not. These routes/ problems were all soloed back in the day, i.e. pre-mats. If you want to do them, get brave, stack a few mats and go for it, don't bolt them. By the way, Chris the Tall, The Breck IS very special to some people.


Yep. If you can do Breck 5C you can do english 6B..
 martin heywood 14 Mar 2010
In reply to martin heywood:
> (In reply to old skool)
> [...]
>
>
> Yep. If you can do Breck 5C you can do english 6B..


Anyway the real point is that although it is obviously a graffitied urban eyesore some of the traverses and boulder problems are really high quality and gave/give local climbers somewhere to train free.
Let's have nobody dismissing the place.
 LakesWinter 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: It really should not be bolted if that's not the original style of development and 'it will encourage people to go there' is a fatuous argument anyway imho
 tim carruthers 14 Mar 2010
Right, I've canvassed opinion amongst some of the Breck's elder statesmen, those who were active there during its heyday (1970s and 1980s). With some replies still to come in from far flung places like Colorado and Birkenhead, the general feeling is that it would be acceptable to replace the old top roping bolts that were originally placed in the concrete at the top of the wall but that NO NEW BOLTS should be added to the wall. This is serious highball territory and should remain as such. The Breck is not a sport climbing venue.
 martin heywood 14 Mar 2010
In reply to tim carruthers:

Ok, you can add my name to that list then.
 mark hounslea 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: Will you keep me or Duncan Martin, who is writing the wirral Section of the new guide up to date on how things go?
I'm going to rewrite the Frogsmouth Section after all the new bolting is finished.
To bolt or not to bolt, I think is up to the local lads. If it creates or maintains a local resource then I'm in favour but.....but do we need to leave room for the next generation to equal or surpass the old farts?
 Adam W. 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: I'm not a local anymore, but climbed there quite a lot in the late 80s/early 90s and try to fit a visit in when I'm in the area. I think that it'd fine for the top-rope bolts to be replaced, but that no more bolts should be placed. This is for two reasons; firstly it's a high ball venue, secondly there's the thin end of the wedge argument.
In reply to Al, I never experienced any problems with the people living in the houses. The worst the that ever happened was getting grass cuttings tipped on us when we were on Bluebell wall. The fences are pretty high.
It's a great place to climb and has some superb climbing. It deserves a little respect.
Would you really want to risk having your rope and quickdraws nicked?
 Pekkie 14 Mar 2010
In reply to martin heywood:

>Mike Collins was always pretty alone in this respect

Has anyone asked 'Breck Mike' for his views? As the original Mr Steelfingers who kept the place neat and tidy for many years, his opinion should count for something. I will decline to comment as I belong on the other side of the water!
In reply to mark hounslea: Hi Mark, Duncan is aware of the discussions and I believe he is of the opinion that we need to gather a few more points of view from the users of the Breck, to help decide whether any further action is taken.
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: Thanks for the replies and comments guys! I've been keeping a close eye on this thread and I'm quite impressed with the amount of people that use/have used the Breck. I know it's not exactly the prettiest crag around, but as some people quite rightly point out, the climbing there is very challenging.

I'm going to wait a small while to get a few more opinions, however I can see it not going down the full on bolting route and maybe just getting the TR bolts renewed.

For anyone that is free on Good Friday (2nd April) there is a 'Spring Clean' happening at the Breck. We've had quite a good response so far.
Hopefully there will be a good turn out and so there shouldn't be too much hard work involved - and obviously try and end the day with a climb and a pint at the Ship Inn.
 martin heywood 14 Mar 2010
In reply to Pekkie:
> (In reply to martin heywood)
>
> >Mike Collins was always pretty alone in this respect
>
> Has anyone asked 'Breck Mike' for his views? As the original Mr Steelfingers who kept the place neat and tidy for many years, his opinion should count for something. I will decline to comment as I belong on the other side of the water!

I can probably get in touch with him.
Don't think he will be particularly bothered either way ( He was perfectly happy for someone to retrobolt a route of his in Llandulas Cave) though he may come out on the side of tradition..
 Enty 14 Mar 2010
In reply to tim carruthers:
> Right, I've canvassed opinion amongst some of the Breck's elder statesmen, those who were active there during its heyday (1970s and 1980s). With some replies still to come in from far flung places like Colorado and Birkenhead, the general feeling is that it would be acceptable to replace the old top roping bolts that were originally placed in the concrete at the top of the wall but that NO NEW BOLTS should be added to the wall. This is serious highball territory and should remain as such. The Breck is not a sport climbing venue.

Add me to the list - I was at Uni in Ormskirk for 3 years in the 80's and although not our local crag we'd be there at least once a week via bus and train!
I reckon I have The Breck and Pex to thank for my finger strength - no bolts please!

Enty
 aostaman 24 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote: This a repeat of the Facebook page.

My views were predicated on the shock that I felt when I saw the Breck, overgrown, covered in glass, a great many needles and various other unsavoury evidence of neglect. Bolting and sport would i believe bring more people, more often and with numbers, you get care, concern and a desire to protect something we all regard as important.

Opinions from 'Elders' (of which I would be one) may be valid, but they they like me are scattered far and wide. The Breck also faces new challenges that were simply not an issue 35 years ago. the nostalgia I understand, but i would rather have a well used and looked after site than one which is neglected but is 'pure' in terms of climbing ethics.

I would also say again, I am no longer local and when there will pitch in and support the effort that is eventually decided upon.
 SebCa 24 Mar 2010
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to old skool)
> [...]
>
> Add me to the list - I was at Uni in Ormskirk for 3 years in the 80's

Uni?? Ormskirk?? There is a quite big College but no uni

 Pekkie 24 Mar 2010
In reply to Jimbo MSider:
> >
> Uni?? Ormskirk?? There is a quite big College but no uni

Yes there is; Edge Hill University.

 Enty 24 Mar 2010
In reply to Jimbo MSider:

It's been a Uni for years - http://www.edgehill.ac.uk/

In the 80's it was indeed a college but as an annex to Lancaster Uni - in the same way as St Martins and Charlotte Mason.

Enty
 tim carruthers 24 Mar 2010
In reply to alandovey:

It's nothing to do with nostalgia. At the risk of repeating myself, the Breck is not a sport climbing venue, it's a bouldering venue. If you want to do the highball problems on the Overhanging Wall, either top rope them or train harder, grow a longer neck, stack some pads and go for it...(see, I just repeated myself!)
In the case of the Haston Dyno, I have spoken to three of the four people who have actually done this and they all reject the idea of bolting it.
Replace the top roping bolts >> sorted.
Dave Swarbrick 25 Mar 2010
In reply to tim carruthers:Fully agree. As somebody who has climbed at the breck since 1977 and lives within 500metres I see it very much as a bouldering venue. It's real positives are its vertical pocketed walls perfect training for routes such as Right Wall and 7a sport. It is never going to replace parissellas etc. If you fully bolt the back wall how long before that main group get bored and move on. The best bet would be a line of bolts just below the top in the concrete which you could access from the easy 5a on the left. No access from the top due to undergrowth. I'm there every Sunday about 10ish as is Breck Mike if you want his views.
 martin heywood 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Dave Swarbrick:

Dave!
Good to see the locals commenting at last. I was glad to see the Facebook Breck club but apparently none of these buggers ever actually go there.
Personally I think you and Mike should have power of veto. Say hi to him for me,
cheers Martin.
In reply to martin heywood:
> (In reply to Dave Swarbrick)
>
> but apparently none of these buggers ever actually go there.


You must be on a different Breck facebook group, as there are quite a few of us 'buggers' on there that use the Breck!
 Enty 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote:
> (In reply to martin heywood)
> [...]
>
>
> You must be on a different Breck facebook group, as there are quite a few of us 'buggers' on there that use the Breck!


Trad - HVS
Indoor - F6b
I want to on-sight The Sloth this summer (2010)
I want to bolt The Breck

Speaks volumes

Enty
 tim carruthers 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Dave Swarbrick:
Cheers Dave (and Martin). To sum up, the following "locals" (or former locals) are against bolting the problems on the Overhanging Wall but for the idea of replacing the top-roping bolts:
Leigh McGinley, Roger Hughes, Tim Carruthers, Keith Jones, Stevie Haston, Steve Downes, Alan MacSherry, Neil Pamment, Dave Swarbrick, Martin Heywood and, I would assume, Mike Collins. Motion rejected?
tc
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to gary.barr)
> [...]
>
>
> Trad - HVS
> Indoor - F6b
> I want to on-sight The Sloth this summer (2010)
> I want to bolt The Breck
>
> Speaks volumes
>
> Enty

Am I missing something? What has any of the above got to do with bolting the Breck? I don't get it? I'm happy to climb HVS, I'm happy to climb 6b, I want to onsight the Sloth and I think the OH wall of the Breck would benifit if there was a bolt or two intalled - All true. So what is it you're trying to say?

I'm all for bolting the OH wall. I'm not taking about lines of bolts, a bolt mid way to stop anyone hitting the floor?

However, it looks like relpacing the TR bolts is the way forward.
 Pekkie 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote:
> (In reply to Enty)
>>
> Am I missing something? What has any of the above got to do with bolting the Breck?

You are. It hasn't. Enty is sneering at you cos you don't climb as hard as him.

 Pekkie 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote:
>>
> However, it looks like relpacing the TR bolts is the way forward.

Seems to be the consensus. Frogsmouth is not far from you and will be rebolted in April. It's potentially a much better sport venue than The Breck.

Removed User 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Pekkie:
> (In reply to gary.barr)
> [...]
> >>
> [...]
>
Enty is sneering at you cos you don't climb as hard as him.

But you will be soon.

 Enty 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Pekkie:
> (In reply to gary.barr)
> [...]
> >>
> [...]
>
> You are. It hasn't. Enty is sneering at you cos you don't climb as hard as him.

Cough - splutter - white wine everywhere!! It smacked of the "not enough easy sport routes argument" although the wall at the Breck aint easy. Hence the smiley.
And yes - the clean up at Frogsmouth should do the trick.

I have decent finger strength for a heavy lard arse - I put this down to the hours spent at Pex and the Breck all those years ago and not having the option of sagging on a bolt.

Enty

 martin heywood 25 Mar 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote:
> (In reply to martin heywood)
> [...]
>
>
> You must be on a different Breck facebook group, as there are quite a few of us 'buggers' on there that use the Breck!


Apologies. I was commenting light heartedly on info from a mate about certain people practically living in Parisella's cave...
What do I know, I am a few thousand miles away (But I did practically live at the Breck for a time some years ago.)
I also suggest that the motion is carried.
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Pekkie)
> Clean up week tomorrow- 2nd April. Now's the time to put your money where your hubris is!
>
> Beer and Barbecue provided... but bring some gardening tools (to fight the local urchins off with)!!
>
> Tchuss
>
> Dr S.


If anybody who is available on Friday 2nd April (Good Friday), there is a Breck tidy up/spring clean happening. The more people we can get down there the better. As Dr S. has stated Beer and BBQ will be provided.
There seems to be quite a large response to this thread and so it'd be good to see those who are commenting helping out down there.

The BMC have been informed and have kindly chipped in.

There will be more up-to-date info in the Facebook Breck group, but I'm sure either myself or someone else will update UKC as appropriate.

Thanks to those who have already offered their support
In reply to martin heywood: No probs
 Dnmn 10 Apr 2010
In reply to alandovey: Hi there- thanks for your interest and support. It's good to here from an old lag

Was just wondering, if all the comments from people who haven't climbed there in the last five years were deleted (except Ben's 'cos I like his post!!), would we have consensus?

 daveyb 04 May 2010
In reply to duncanmartin: Yes!
 Jamie B 04 May 2010
In reply to Wile E. Coyote:

How high is the Overhanging Wall? It looks to be too short to be a worthwhile sport crag. Ending a long-established highball ethos for the sake of one or two mini clip-ups seems pointless to me.

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