UKC

Hi

Tricky one this because there are so many of them, but which trad E1 rises to the top of the pile - anywhere in the world, single or multi-pitch?

Any thoughts?

Phil

In reply to BlownAway:

definitely gimmer string or man of straw

In reply to BlownAway:

I thought the British grading system was only used in Britain?

In reply to BlownAway:

The Nose on El Cap.

I described it as E1 and A1 at the time.

(The Salathe got E2 and A2)

In reply to BlownAway:

Diedros Magicos, Puig Campagna, Costa Blanca is always my answer to this question!

In reply to BlownAway:

Serenity crack/sons of yesterday in yosemite. Think that was about E1

In reply to The Pylon King:


Good point, well made, but I'm sure you can figure out the parities with other grading systems.

In reply to John Kelly:


Are we on for Gimmer String next Friday then? I was setting my sights a lot lower TBH!

In reply to The Pylon King:

Aren't you classing Malta as Britain? (that's an earnest question, not a point-scorer...the trad climbs there are graded on the UK system)

I have a sneaking feeling that somewhere else in the world might use the UK system but it's not coming to mind right now.

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Malta is go

I wasn't. Should I? The weather's better isn't it?

In reply to BlownAway:

You quoted me just as I was changing "Are" to "Aren't"

In reply to BlownAway:

gimmer string - your lead or aiding - yes lower

In reply to richparry:

Ditto but, I thought it was E2

In reply to BlownAway:


Does any other country use our grading?

In reply to The Pylon King:


Ireland uses the same system. I know of a handful of routes here in Victoria, Australia that still have the UK grades despite the general replacement with the dry and uninspiring Ewbank system.

In reply to The Pylon King:


Only if we shout at them loud enough

In reply to BlownAway:

I think Sirplum and Cemetary Gates would get into the top 10 !

In reply to The Pylon King:

Morocco uses British grading...established by ex pats (brown et all) and has become the norm

In reply to Kemics:

Surely the UK published guidebooks to Morocco use UK grades but no one else? Aren't all the massive sport climbs in Todra gorge (IIRC) given French grades for example?

In reply to BlownAway:

I like the idea of a 'personal best', as opposed to 'the best in the world'. This allows for all kinds of subjectivity and individual preference. For instance, higher up the thread 'Man of Straw' is named - my view is that its not even the best E1 in the Ghyll - an accolade that would go to Chimney Variant...and even then,that route would probably not get into a top 100 of World E1s...

But, from the posters perspective, it is well worth considering. Fair do's

In reply to BlownAway:

West ridge of the Salbitchen

In reply to BlownAway:

The Arrow, on a sunny day with a nice swell running, done at your limit.

In reply to Greenbanks:

my experience does not allow me to contribute sensibly to the 'best E1 in the world'
(i reckon it will be an elite group who can truly comment on the OP)
but i was bored and like the routes i mentioned
incidentally i haven't done 'chimney variant' intend to remedy on your recommend

In reply to John Kelly:

I wasn't having a dig at all - simply reinforcing what you've said (that's my position too - the last E1 I've done is always up there near the best!). And believe me, I am not in a position to argue about the grade really - just that I know WG well, and have done Man of Straw - which I personally found rather underwhelming

In reply to BlownAway: Ha'penny Arete, Deeply Vale

In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Maybe - except he said E1, not ED1...

I'd recommend Vestpillaren (maybe E2), Luna Nascente (with the usual aid on the first 2 pitches), and the Yellow Spur at Eldorado. Crest Jewel, too, if you like slabs.

In reply to Greenbanks:

think we're actually agreeing and if i can persuade my leader to drag me up CV (too much for me currently) i will form a view.
May start a 'best of WG' thread for fans of quality routes - your included
Man of straw has always been right at my limit. The guide says something like ok unless 'confidence in your feet evaporate' mine did and so it left an impression
cheers john

In reply to Mike Lewis:

Am with you on Luna Nascente, what an amazing line.

In reply to Mike Lewis:


I'm allowed to give it a British grade. It is E1.

In reply to BlownAway:

so far i think firesword on dragon buttress in morocco but still plenty around the world to look at

In reply to BlownAway:

Kachoong is pretty good. Araps, probably about E1....

In reply to TobyA:


I think sport routes are graded French style but all the trad stuff gets a British grade

Though as for the best route, it might be Kantti in Finland I think it gets something silly like 6a+ but seeing as there's 4 bolts in 50 meters I'd happily take a trad grade!

In reply to BlownAway:

Has to be TPS surely? (I will be in hiding for a couple of weeks!)

In reply to BlownAway:

You could make a pretty amazing E1 mixing pitches of Madier and Visite on the Aiguille Dibona. IIRC the combination I did was about HVS, but I think it would have been possible to make it E1. About 14 or so pitches of wonderful granite including a cool tunnel, lots of lovely slabs, some amazing laybacking up huge flakes, leading to an incredible summit. Unbeatable day.

In reply to admackie:


Yeah but thats E2 .......hahaha

In reply to Kemics:

Yeah, but what grade? I've never led it (and have never led anything that hard in the UK either), too scary for me, but TobyFK who knows his stuff thought E2 5b or maybe even E3 5b/c. Isn't it a bit intense for E1?

The crack routes on the mainface at Olhava I reckon hold their own with any other single pitch E1s anywhere.

For the best E1 anywhere I think Sydpilaren of Stetind should get a look in. Possibly better than Vestpilaren across the water?

In reply to BlownAway:

Coronation Street or Cenotaph Corner (no other climb has the heritage value!)

In reply to Bulls Crack:

I thought coronation the best e1 in England about 6 years ago and don't think I'd change opinion now.

There's a truly brilliant e1 of left in the woods in squamish 8 pitch's maybe, torn between that and stoners highway in yosemite for best NA. Serenity crack is 10d sadly...

S ridge of bec d'oiseau above the envers is brilliant and unbolted. Best rock climbing I've done in cham maybe. The dibona link from j sounds great though with bonus v pointy summit and no big boots to carry...

In reply to Bulls Crack:


Completely agree [for the UK]. Very hard to decide between these two [if only Coronation Street had a high-class lower section - it'd be easier to choose].

In reply to The Pylon King:


It's used in Ireland as well

In reply to richparry:


Crux section more like E3?

E

In reply to Bulls Crack:

central buttress on scafell certainly has heritage!

In reply to BlownAway:
The Needle, Shelter Stone Crag.

Surprised no one's mentioned this yet.

In reply to BlownAway:

Old Man of Hoy would rank pretty high. Surely?

In reply to BlownAway:

"Shelered wall" @ Sheeps Tor.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=32689

In reply to TobyA:




I'd say e2 seems fair, certainly one of the loneliest leads! I agree about the main faces too, couldn't help think any of them would be 3 star mega classics if they were anywhere in the uk.

In reply to Kemics:

They're just the perfect length aren't they? At about 45 mtrs you've got no excuse not to do them in a pitch, but they just keep going and going - generally with bomber regular gear so no excuses to wimp out! Seconded a friend on Ruotsalainen Reitti (the one that includes the long traverse left) a month ago and remember what a great climb it is despite having done it a few times previously.

In reply:

Regular Route, Fairview Dome

In reply to TobyA:

The one I remember best is Salama. I love how it has three really defined sections, one fingers sized, then hand and finally offwidth. Each section is split up by a delicate traverse. The lake is so eery too with it's jet black and completely still water...and yes at 45 meter it feels like forever!

Damn i might have to go back!

you should totally write up a ukc destination article. I'd say it's worth an international visit. Route approach by rowing boat, bbq, camping and infinite wild (amazingly tasting) blueberries for breakfast. Not to mention the climbing. We only did a quick stop off but I have some amazing memories of those few days.

In reply to Kemics:

Epinephrine, Red Rocks is pretty memorable (includes 500 feet of squeeze chimneys)
Casual Route ,the Diamond
I agree about Diedros Magicos- it's great.
La Demande, Verdon

But hard to beat Rock Idol, Wishful Thinking, The Arrow etc

In reply to BlownAway:

Risky business at red rocks vets my vote. 5.10 c probably E1.5

In reply:

Or Central Pillar of Frenzy

Can't think of any in the UK that would make the top ten

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Not done Coronation St & will put it on the list but my nomination would be Grey Panther for pure consistent standard right through. Cenotaph Corner is classic but varies too much.

In reply to Mike Lates:

Yup, Cenotaph is just too uneven. It's very near the top of many lists, but it's still flawed.

In reply to BlownAway:

I haven't done many at E1, but Lucky Strike stands out (even irrespective of grade).

In reply to BlownAway:

Single pitch - Devil's Dihedral, Frog Buttress, Australia

In reply to Morgan Woods:


21 is more like top-end E2, isn't it? I'd expect 18 or 19 to be E1.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Kachoong at E1 would be a bit harsh.
NE Buttress of upper Cathedral (Yosemite)and Torro (I know it gets E2, but it felt right at E1) on Carn Dearg would be my best, with Minus One Buttress Direct and the old Man of Hoy as reserves. They're the four at that sort of grade that stick in my mind.

In reply to alasdair19:

Stoners Highway is one of the best routes I've climbed. Ever. But it's considerably harder than E1 especially with the direct start.

In reply to humptydumpty:


Isn't that what I said?

In reply to Morgan Woods:

Yeah I guess you meant creep *down* into E2, sorry. I read it as "top-end E1, creeping into E2".

In reply to humptydumpty:

Gotcha....always tough translating to/from E grades.

In reply to John Alcock:

I'd go for La Demande too.

In reply to Deri Jones:

Torro is a fair call, it doesn't have the full mountain experience and big cliff feel of something like The Needle though.

In reply to BlownAway:

There are few in the Cape that must be contenders.

How about Touch and Go or Roulette on Table Mountain? Amazing exposure and fantastic grippy holds.

Little Dutch Boy at Paarl is an great line through some very photogenic features (although I haven't done it since it was rebolted but I doubt it feels like a sport route).

Energy Crisis at the Wolfberg Cracks is a real adventure above a massive drop and would probably not be much harder than E1 if you had some big cams for the first pitch.