/ Best trad dynos?

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deacondeacon - on 12 Mar 2019

Does anyone have any recommendations for some good Trad routes with Dynos in them? Love a good dyno but don't get them on trad routes very often. I climb all over but mainly Peak Grit, Yorkshire Grit, Peak Lime, North Wales.

Any grade really but I suppose HVS-E6. And has to be ultimately safe (although a little spicy is fine).

Looking forward to hearing the replies  

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mrphilipoldham - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Wings of Unreason (E4 6a) is the obvious one!

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Rick Graham on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Holocaust on Dow used to be often climbed with a dyno.

It can be done static.

The first route I heard of that "needed" a dyno.

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andi turner - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Boom Bip (E7 7a)Catharsis (E7 7a),  Thing on a Spring (E6 7a) are all ultimately safe

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Kevster - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Slate has a few I believe, if you can keep up with Johnny dawes routes. 

The grade I climb, theres usually another way. 

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deacondeacon - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Thanks Phil but that's one of the few I've done  

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deacondeacon - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to andi turner:

Nice one andi, always liked the look of Thing on a spring, although English 7a is asking a lot from me lol.

Does catharsis have gear before the dyno or do you have to boulder it out? 

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deacondeacon - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to Rick Graham:

I'll have a look at it Rick, haven't done much in the lakes to be honest

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Ged Desforges - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Great topic. 

Wings of unreason has to be top of the list  It's easy, but feels very exciting. 

Big Wednesday on the ramp in Avon gorge is the other one that springs (ahem) to mind. Its a cracking move that one, and not very easy. 

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nuts and bolts on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

When you are 5'3" every bloody route seems to have a dyno on it!

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Andy Reeve on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Cover me in chocolate and feed me to the lesbians (that's the route name, not a request, in case anyone misunderstands me). Purists might call it a big rather than a dyno but I think it fits the bill

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ChrisBrooke - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Tippler Direct? If you’re strong you can do it static... if you’re less strong it’s a bit of a throw/mini-dyno and very safe. I’m sure you’ll have already done that one though. 

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deacondeacon - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to Andy Reeve:

Been keen for that for ages!! I'll have to be going pretty well for a chance to get up that mind  

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deacondeacon - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to Ged Desforges:

Yep done wings, the start is harder than the dyno but it's a great route. Never climbed at Avon so may have to have a look

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pasbury on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to nuts and bolts:

Nah you just climb up to the holds.

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planetmarshall on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

That route in Cliffhanger.

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Dave Todd - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

The Devil is in the Details (E7 7a)

...might be a contender...?

Vid:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEvF61olDks

Post edited at 21:33
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nuts and bolts on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to pasbury:

Yep, do that all the time on limestone, granite, rhyolite etc. but on grit if you cannot reach the hold there is often not much else to go for.

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Tom V - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

I don't suppose it will apply to you but for people of a certain weight Agden's Oak Tree Walk is best tackled by a sort of diving board dyno.

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pasbury on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to nuts and bolts:

> Yep, do that all the time on limestone, granite, rhyolite etc. but on grit if you cannot reach the hold there is often not much else to go for.

Grit wizards don’t tend to be tall 🙂

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ashtond6 - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Circe... for you

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ashtond6 - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Gift For Grumpy (E4 6c)

Well keen for this!

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ChrisBrooke - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

The Shiznit (f7A)

Boulder/highball. High enough...

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deacondeacon - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to ashtond6:

Can't remember doing Circe, E5 on windy ledge? Let's go and try 'Gift For Grumpy'  

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SFrancis - on 13 Mar 2019
Graeme Hammond - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Not tried but apparently Look Before you Leap (E1 6b)

And close by Amphitheatre Face (VS 5a)

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deacondeacon - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to SFrancis:

Done Bat Out Of Hell and defo dynoed it lol. Nosferatu looks like the dyno is the fun glory bit, after the E6 section. Although the dyno is safe I'm not sure if I can handle the scary bit  

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deacondeacon - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Let's go and do look before you leap! Done amphitheatre face but don't remember any dyno? 

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D.Russell on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

 The Mystic (The Mystic (E5)) up at Reiff has a dyno for the top. Great route and well protected as well. 

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nuts and bolts on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to pasbury:

I know - look at Johnny Dawes. 

It's really an excuse for my appalling lack of talent

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lukehodson on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

The Orang Outang out of Jungle Book (E3)

From memory this is described in the Avon guidebook as being for 'the VS leader with V9 bouldering skills'

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Somerset swede basher - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

The scary bit relents very quickly.  The dyno is more of a pop but feels wild! (nosferatu)

Post edited at 13:00
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JamButty - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

hows about that one on Dawn Wall?

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Pedro50 on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to JamButty:

> hows about that one on Dawn Wall?

Yes the Jorgesen direct variant. 

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deacondeacon - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to Pedro50:

Did it last week, after work ;) 

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meggies - on 13 Mar 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Top move of Nosferatu: Nosferatu (E6 6b)

Or if you're feeling like a hero The Notorious BLG:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9t7j45uWrag

The Notorious BLG (E7 6c)

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Gus - on 11:04 Mon
In reply to meggies:

> Or if you're feeling like a hero The Notorious BLG:

THIS! It's absolutely outrageous!

Post edited at 11:04
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DannyC on 11:35 Mon
In reply to meggies:

What a mega video, and move.

You feel every quiver, then... bosh!

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Aly - on 11:47 Mon
In reply to deacondeacon:

Others have mentioned Nosferatu - it has a fun dyno, it's just a shame that it's both avoidable and not the meat of the route.

Off The Beaten Track in the slate quarries was, I think, originally done with an all-out dyno for the railway tracks above.  I did it this way for the hell of it, but I remember thinking it could probably be done a more sensible way.  There must be a few others on slate that I can't remember (I've definitely jumped on more than one route there!)

The Bad and the Beautiful at Millstone has a cracking move, but is more of a wild deadpoint than proper dyno (and not really ultimately safe), as does Modern Art at Froggatt.

The top move on Knockin' on Heaven's door is a pretty wild slap/dyno.  It *can* be done more static but it's harder to do it this way now that the hold(s) have broken.  Again, not really safe.

Big Air of course (although more often done as a boulder problem now I suspect)?

I was going to mention The Shiznit at Burbage North (I thought it used to get E4??), but it's on UKC as a boulder problem now so can be excluded.

Badmotorfinger at Black Rocks?

I think most of the other ones I can think of have been mentioned.

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