UKC

Does anyone know of any good routes S - Hvs in cheddar? Thanks

You will probably need the Martin Crocker guide to understand what the climbing date restrictions mean (they are hard to visualise otherwise).

There are a lack of good (& clean) multi-pitch trad routes

Could be wrong but I don't think there's any multi pitch at those sort of grades.

I don't know of any overlap on the venn diagram of 'good routes S - Hvs' and 'in Cheddar'. 

It's not multipitch but some of the routes up on Long Wall are in that grade range and pretty good, although you have to be prepared to fight for it a bit. Utopia is HVS and multipitch and quite exciting. Doomwatch if you're up for pushing the boat out to E1 is just about the most intimidating single pitch I've done because it's only the last pitch of the old route, i.e. ab from the top and start 400 feet above the road with mind bending exposure and pretty good climbing. Consolation on Reservoir walls if you do the E1 version is decent, but the e2 version is even better. There's Thor which is pretty cool too - bit of a burly fight mind... Oh and Sceptre, which is more HVS than VS. 

I mean the thing with Cheddar is that it's Cheddar so you need to do the routes in the right frame of mind and not expect a path...

Check out Knights climb. Technically a diff but it definitely feels closer to severe at times (last pitch is a corker)!

It's a winter only route as per Martin Crocker's guide, a worthwhile investment as already pointed out.

Knight's Climb (Diff), Sceptre (VS), and Utopia (HVS) are all interesting adventures. Take a spare pair of underpants.

Knights Climb is definitely worth the effort. Also Eden Crack or Temptation on Reservoir Walls leading up to  Pyramus or Thisbe on Shoot Gully Walls above. Mourning Glory was an adventure and I'd be tempted to go and dig it out when it'sdry.

Mourning Glory is sadly unredeemable. Have asked repeatedly to be allowed to exhumed it but apparently there are perched death blocks...

When i last did Coronation Street in 2006, a team behind us were on Sceptre.  Their comments on its state are unrepeatable here.

So once the road is closed, good to go?🙃

Good luck with your endeavour. Let me know how it goes.

I agree. IMO Mourning Glory is a really poor route, not worth doing

I have done Sceptre (VS 4c) a couple of times and found it very poor. Just my opinion of course

Back in the day it was fantastic A real adventure...

Wye valley maybe worth considering? Your profile shows Bristol based. 

There's a debate in there somewhere. 

I know, and the setting of the climb is great. I just strongly dislike the scrappy first section up to where it breaks right

A contender for the worst route I've ever done. Did it shortly after it had been marmalised by the cliff stabilisers.

Second this, Eden crack and Pyramus is a great adventure route.

Knights climb can be approached using one of the trad routes on the tier below provided the official decent route is via acid rock. A worthy addition and much better approach option.

THANK YOU ALL

Very helpful responses, what a great community 

A contender for the worst route I've ever done. Did it shortly after it had been marmalised by the cliff stabilisers.

Did it in October 2003, it was "very interesting" - we were using the 1992 Guide !! Belays were rather awkward to arrange, and never in the stated location.

Then got the 2004 Guide which said its "time ran out when it was dismantled in the late 90s".

A comment I can readily believe. Were we the last (idiots) to climb the route ?

I did Mourning Glory a few times in the 70's and it was a 3* route and it's a real shame it's been lost