/ Good intermediate sport crag in Central Scotland

drconline 10 Sep 2019

Hi there, we are just getting into sport climbing (for now) and looking for good venues.

We've done Bennybeg three times now and while it's great to start on we're kind of past that stage.

Tried Dunglas but there's only one 6a and it's all a bit overhanging and hard (and wet!!).

So looking for the next step up from Bennybeg?

Needs to have a good range of grades as we're not all at the same stage.

Looking like North Berwick Law might be on the list??

Anything else in the West worth considering?

Trying to stick to sport for now as we don't have the gear/knowledge to progress yet.

Thanks

Dave

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IanMcC 10 Sep 2019
In reply to drconline:

You could try Callander Crags sports routes. Only half a dozen at present, but a really different style to Bennybeg.

Callander Crags Sport Climbs

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Eric9Points 10 Sep 2019
In reply to IanMcC:

Legaston would probably suit you and Ley would be worth a look.

Legaston Quarry

Ley Quarry

Have you thought about Weem? There are a fair number of moderately graded sports climbs there as well.

Weem Crags

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Rigid Raider 10 Sep 2019
In reply to drconline:

Callander Crags are conglomerate!  My most hated rock.  

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Al_Mac 10 Sep 2019
In reply to drconline:

I don't think I've seen anyone mention Kirrie Hill? It's a nice enough place with a good range of grades. Some routes are a bit sandy and some of the easier stuff is a bit worn but there's plenty to go at.

Ley is good but my abiding memory is that it's a bit reachy and very fingery - a bit like North Berwick Law in that respect. They're similar in that they're chipped quarry stone, albeit NBL is dolerite and Ley is sandstone. I haven't been there this year but suspect with how wet the summer's been the tyrolean may be quite close to the water!

Weem's nice climbing and once the leaves are gone from the trees can dry reasonably quickly, albeit it can seep if there's been a period of heavy rain (the overhanging stuff that avoids this happening starts at 7a).

Rock Dust is high on a hill above Pitlochry and is south facing. Some bits on the lower crag sound a bit hollow but it's nice climbing and again, dries quickly which can be a requirement at this time of year.

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Elsier 11 Sep 2019
In reply to drconline:

Kirrie Hill or Robs Reed might be the best choices, although there are some seasonal restrictions at Robs Reed.

Lower Lednock or Rock Dust might also be options, but Lower Lednock is quite serious for the grades, as its very ledgy.

Ley is OK but be aware that most of the easier grade routes at the entrance to the quarry have single bolt lower offs. The lower offs on the pool wall were fine, but the routes were quite dirty so take a brush if you go. 

If you are willing to travel then Moy Rock is probably the best sports crag in Scotland at intermediate grades. 

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BrendanO 14:32 Sun
In reply to drconline:

N B Law is a very nice place, though hard grades after Benny Beg! Dunbar has 4 small routes but worth visiting once, not at high tide. Blantyre Towers is a unique oddity. Long long routes that will knacker you but get you strong!

Obe or two routes in Ratho Quarry to suit you, and maybe another 2-3 across the canal there in CraigPark Quarry.

Kirriemuir seems a long way from Central but once there you get LOTS done. Sheltered too!

good luck! 7a+ book is quite handy for these.

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drconline 06:25 Mon

Hey thanks everyone - this is a great list to work through. Really appreciate the info!

Regards

Dave

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Mark Bull 18:30 Mon
In reply to drconline:

North Berwick Law is a useful venue: sometimes dry when everything further west is wet, quick drying but also quite sheltered. 

Some notes on the easier routes: 

Left Hand Route: short and very crimpy. Getting onto the starting ledge is an awkward faff. 

Law and Disorder: reachy and very strenuous! 

Darkness Falling: first bolt is missing and a tricky move to reach the second - needs a clip stick (or some microwires)! 

Crossing the Line and Breaking the Law: makey-uppy diagonal lines with little independent climbing 

Old Lawbreaker: tricky clip at the crux - if you are not cruising 6b it's a good idea to pre-place a longish draw here (easily done when lowering off Wild Iris) or get your mate to lead it first! Feels a bit run out. 

Wild Iris: very high first bolt - fairly easy climbing below this, but take care (or a cam). 

Yurma: nice enough but no way 3 stars! 

Rapp Hell: the best warm-up 

Solitary Soul: eliminate rules for the grade - don't use the big spike. Crimpy. 

Anarchic Law: also eliminate rules - don't use the arete. Keeps changing grade as bits fall off - 6a+ seemed about earlier this year. 

Post edited at 18:52
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drconline 12:25 Tue
In reply to Mark Bull:

Thanks Mark - that's very useful beta.

Dave

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drconline 12:28 Tue
In reply to Elsier:

Thanks Elsier - we often go on holiday up near Inverness so will definitely check out Moy Rock next time.

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drconline 14:13 Tue
In reply to Eric9Points:

Thanks Eric - we did go to one of the smaller outcrops at Weem and enjoyed that, so we'll definitely go back there.

Dave

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JLS 14:43 Tue
In reply to drconline:

For 6b - Kirriemuir

For 6c - Blantyre Towers

For 7a - North Berwick Law

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