UKC

Hey Guys,

Before I lead a few sport routes I have in mind (higher grades) I wanted to setup a top rope to practice some of the moves that I have fallen on before. The problem is there is no top out or way to setup a top rope. Any ideas on the best way to get one setup?

I'm thinking either;

dogging my way up past my high point on the route by pulling on the rope and quickdraws to get to each bolt then setup the top rope on quickdraws from the anchor bolts.

OR

Krab my clip stick to my harness, Climb to my high point, daisy chain into the bolt and use the clip stick to clip in the quickdraws

Anyone have any other suggestions??

If you want to get the rope up on a sport route where it's just to hard to do the moves then clip sticking bolt to bolt is how you do it. So you get to a bolt, clip in directly to the bolt then get your belayer to pay out some slack, clip a draw into the rope and then clip it into the next bolt up with a clip stick. 

Then you get taken by your belayer again, unclip from the bolt you're at and you're now on "top rope" up to the next bolt where you do the same until you're either at the top or past the bit which is too hard to dog up. 

Also if you're planning on top roping a sport route, it's best to clip two quickdraws or something into the Y-hang bolts and run your rope through those rather than the ancour so you don't wear out the hanger with your top-roping, usually they are only for lowering off on. 

 

I thought this would be the best way but always good to get an experienced point of view just to be safe. Cant wait to give this a go and figure this route out!!

Thanks 

Please be careful. It's essential to have very clear communication with your belayer, re when they give you slack and when they take in again. You need to check with them, every single time. If you clip stick, say five bolts in a row, it's very easy to think, 'Well, they know what I'm doing, by now.' And they may. But, then again, they may not. Or your body may be obscuring things, so they're not quite sure whether you're clipped in or not. Don't assume - or leave them to assume. Check - every single time.

Two points re the clip stick. You're be regularly clipping it into your harness and taking it off again. Best for your belayer to move to one side, as soon as possible, just in case it drops on them.

When you're getting lowered off after successfully clipsticking, it's very easy to forget it's still there on the end of your harness, until it hits the ground before you do - ouch!  It's ingrained in me to remove it at about the third bolt and hold it sideways as I reach the ground. Just my personal method. As backup, while you're getting used to things, why not ask your belayer to remind you to take it off, one way or the other, just in case you forget? OK you both might forget, but it's less likely. (Certainly, after you get it wrong once, you tend to remember!) 

Good luck!

Mick

Hi Mick,

some really great advice there and something we will put into practice. It’s so easy to forget these basics pieces of communication but they are essential to keep you safe on the wall 

Im very lucky to have a great belayer and somewhat of an over cautious approach when I do things so I’m 100% on board with your advice 

thanks again 👍🏻

Just to reiterate what Mick said, dropping the clip stick is a very real danger to those below you. Be super careful with it. I find that a small loop of cord on the head of the clip stick is useful as it can be clipped into the bottom crab of the QuickDraw you are placing. This has the advantage of holding the clip stick for you while you climb/yard up the rope to the clipped bolt, saving you having to “rack” the stick onto you harness each time and also avoids climbing with stick crashing about on your harness. When you’ve pulled up to the bolt you’ve just clipped I would clip my daisy chain into the top crab of the quick draw. This generally will be quicker that trying to get into the bolt direct but obviously isn’t as secure as a screw gate into the bolt. Bear in mind the arithmetic of your position on the route an how much slack you are pulling out to clip, particularly if you are tempted to skip a bolt for speed. You sort of have to stay in the “I’m leading” mindset even though you are hanging from a bolt. If you do skip a bolt be sure to put a QuickDraw in as you pass.

Generally, I’d advise separating getting the top rope in place from working the route. Just yard up by pulling on the rope and get the rope up ASAP, come back down rest and then give the moves your full attention without the faff with the stick.

All good points. Definitely agree about getting the rope setup first, coming down then going back on the route to figure out the moves. 

Will tie a bit of chord onto the clip stick as this gives me some more options by the sound of things 

thanks 

Well I suppose a chord would improve the sound of things, eh?

Depends which one; I'd avoid E9 If possible!

All sounds a bit fishy to me.....