In reply to Robert Durran:
> (In reply to AlanLittle)
> [...]
>
> You could save four if you accepted that you only need one for your belay plate!
How do I only need one for a belay plate in guide mode? Admittedly using a plate in guide mode is not essential, but I personally find it more comfortable for bringing up two seconds, or one slow second. And my clipping in krab is near to the moving belay plate in a guide mode scenario, so I really would rather have a screwgate for that. Screw or snap makes no real difference for the second bolt I agree.
> Incidentally, why are bolted belays different?
They aren't particularly, except that these days for bolted stances I tend to use the current DAV / ÖAV recommendation which is: bowline loop tied in the end of a sling to make a central point. Clip this to one bolt; other end of sling to other bolt as backup; self and HMS or belay plate (guide mode, two screw krabs) onto central point.
I know I could also do: krab on each bolt, clove hitch one rope to each, belay plate on harness, done. And I sometimes do. But it tends to upset continentals for some reason.
In any case we seem to have accepted that two screwgates are permissible. So subsituting non-screwgates for my other three screwgate Phantoms saves me a maximum of 3 x 15 grammes. Less in reality because for most purposes I prefer normal size krabs to fiddly little things.
> (or do you use srewgates on all anchors?)
No, I use as many as I happen to be carrying then snaps for the rest, with a preference for screwgates on the points that are nearer to me or other moving parts of the system.