UKC

UKC.com a hot topic at UKB.com

http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4437&sid=8675cd8a19d2f57f...

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Quite interesting in a looking down the microscope at plankton sort of way.

In reply to Mick Ryan: Isn't is really cool how they all have those little comments at the end of their posts - "catch it, match it, send it"

Regards

JLS

miss it, slither doon it, break it

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Perhaps I should start a thread on UKB 'UKClimbers discuss UKBoulderers discussing UKClimbers'.

Oooo, how very interesting.

In reply to JLS:

nice pictures too. Apart from Fiend's, which is a bit scary.

where *is* fiend anyway?

In reply to CJD:

Packed ukc in, just like me.

In reply to Jus:

riiiight.

erm...

In reply to CJD:

I thought he was in South Africa. That was probably ages ago...

In reply to CJD:

Well the thought is there at least.

In reply to Jus:

what, that you're here in body but elsewhere in spirit?

In reply to CJD:

I'm at work, so of course!

I think I've done quite well in cutting down me coming on here. I only post on the odd thread every few days, which is perty good.

In reply to Jus:

one day I will be like that.

No, really.

In reply to Cocktalk:

"has the bouldering bubble burst?"

Err - no its just been summer as usual - Happens once a year regular as clockwork...

In reply to Simon:

Have you now too become a Ukblodderer, Si?

In reply to Jus: They seem to go in for a bit too much youth-speak for me. Must be getting old! Maybe I could follow your thread on UKB with a thread on here called "UKB discuss UKC discussing UKB....!" We could bring the internet crashing down if we kept it up!

PS G'day youth!

In reply to DaveC at Work:

its all a bit tongue in cheek though

In reply to JR: As are we (I hope!)

In reply to DaveC at Work:

I've been finding all the web in general quite tedious for quite a while now, apart from BBC weather mind you.

G'day to you too mate! Hope to see you soon ont grit.

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Jesus Christ Mick, it's the summer and it's come to light that people, having worked out long ago that sweating off gritstone boulders is no fun, have found that routes including limestone routes, offer a better quality experience at the moment, than say the grit or even the famous limestone bouldering. The same is possible in Wales and the Lakes.

Have you really fallen for one of Francis' trolls or more likely have you forgotten already about the most important variable affecting climbing in the UK - the conditions?

If you look through the literature you're a keen climber with awareness for important (e.g. access) issues. And you've put up a load of people at your house. But you waste time twiddling on about womens rights or youth sub culture or pseudo-anti-grade-elitism nonsense. And you write about these non-issues well. With that skill how do you answer the question `when you gonna get the proper job'?
Cos I know somehow you've made a living from verticalrockukbrainclimbingfax, good for you. But you can be such an embarassment I feel sorry for the other guys running UKC.

Even though personally I don't `get' a few people, to a right lot of people I do `get' you obviously come across negatively. We respect you for giving grief to that tool man women when she behaved like a fraud, but you're as annoying as her on occasion. Yeah, a lot of these are on ukbouldering but barr about 20 people (+ or -) plus the
guys I know on here the only place I can reliably talk about the actual process of and specifics of climbing and climbing movement and things to climb, and now it seems sport climbing, with people who know what they're on about is ukbouldering.

In reply to Paz:
Word.

In reply to Mick Ryan: So that is where Fiend and FH have gone!

In reply to Jon Dittman: FH is still posting on here (as Nidderdale something-or-other.)

In reply to Jon Dittman: Fiend has been on UK Bouldering as long as he has been on UKC. I suspect he gave up on UKC due to stuff like the above.

In reply to DaveC at Work:

Its not just 'youth speak' the whole site set up tends to waste. UK climbing is a much better, quicker site. This has become partly its problem as its success has diluted the average quality of comments, hence encouraged those that have moved over. UK bouldering is a great resource for bouldering information, I just wish they'd drop some of the attitude and a load of the guff that fill the screen (and bandwidth) thats not part of the thread.

In reply to Paz:

Hi Paz

It's a valid news item. News is not just about ascents and repeats but about trends, events, what climbers are saying, doing and what other climbing media are doing. The news would get pretty darn boring if it was just so and so did this in three days or so and so just onsighted this.

Yes I'm fully aware of the vagaries of UK weather. For whatever reasons, and there are many bouldering did have a surge of popularity from the mid-Nineties onwards. This manifested itself in many bouldering dvds, lots of climbing magazine attention, bouldering companies were started and yes, websites devoted totally to bouldering arose, of which ukbouldering is one. Importantly there was the appearance of 'the boulderer' and a bouldering subculture within climbing. Boulderers even have their own uniform. There were arguments about how bouldering is better than this and that, and many top climbers adopted it as their own.

It's run it's course now, even more popular than it was before its surge.

Francis's question is a valid one. It's a question mind, as is the news report to some extent. Significant as well, and part of the news report is that bouldering websites, ukbouldering being but one, also now cover rope climbing (chuffing). Bouldering has lost some of its religious favour amongst its most devout followers. Lastly in the UKClimbing readership survey we polled people as to what type of climbing they did, this figure is also included in the news report. So there is lots in there to think about if you like, for many they couldn't give a toss, we are all different.

I'm not so sure what you are upset about.

Best regards,

Mick
P.S., I have three jobs.

In reply to Mick Ryan:


Surely that is gossip and speculation rather than 'news'

In reply to Simon Lee:

No. Read the report, it is filled with facts. List them if you like.

In reply to Offwidth:

They have, as of last week, if you'd bothered to look.

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Jeezus Mick, where did you dig that old thread up from. I posted that when I was still working at Leeds College of Bouldering!

As for chuffing, it should be pointed out that Top Chuffing has been used by the people at Yorkshiregrit.com to regrade Trad Chuffs with Vermin grades, but hey you already knew that.

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=crookrise__slipnslide

As for Bouldering bubbles bursting, I have sold more Mats (pads state side speak) than ropes this summer!

In reply to Mick Ryan: It's not news Mick, any more than the idle specualtion of the "what's hot and what's not section" of a women's magazine, or the gossip section of a tabloid. If you want to believe there was any bubble to burst, then do so. Just don't think you or FH are reporting the cutting edge or anything. And it's hardly a "hot topic on UKB" just an observation, like all your tedious cut and paste articles that appear on here.

In reply to Mick Ryan:

As far as I can see the question is whether bouldering is in decline based on the 'fact' that 2 famous boulderers are doing other things coupled with the extraneous 'fact' that nearly 70% of UKC climbers engage in bouldering.

Either I am hard of thinking today or this is not a news item - unless the definition of a news item is that it appears in the news section

In reply to Chris Fryer:

Of course it is news, don't silly. It's what's happening within climbing and quite significanttly across the board.

In reply to Mick Ryan:

>saying, doing and what other climbing media are doing. The >news would get pretty darn boring if it was just so and so did this in three days or so and so just onsighted this.

It's just a load of bollocks. So and so was having a conversation.
He's not an important spokesperson, or a leading climber. He might well be a nice guy and a decent climber but he's a famous wind up merchant. And you haven't even managed to provide a link to the thread on UKB, (when you find it you'll find it was asked innocently back in July)


Yeah, but noone gives a shit.




As I've said, it's just because you can't talk about some things on forums, say national climbing forums, where you would think you would be able to. Go and start a thread about sport climbing and time how long it is before Bob tells you it's crap and unfulfilling.
And I love how you make out that DWS is totally safe too. Do you want me to start on sea conditions?


Well here, we've just had a hot summer. Or maybe you were unaware of some of the route climbing credentials of the UKB posters?


Partially, for a while now, someone ought to have told you straight how you come across, in as polite (more polite) terms as/than they could manage.

But I'll give you this, maybe a more poignant question
is, in the context of `big wall' rock routes, after a number of bolt free ascents, has the bolting bubble burst? You've completely managed to over shadow the recent achievements of some UK climbers (is there a thread on this yet) by going on about a discussion topic in the news pages that anyone else, not just those without access to the news pages, would've just started a thread for.

In which case you'd have maybe got answers like,
-No it's not burst give it three months
-No I'm still going to Glenda'
-We're doing a few routes but the gite's booked for font.

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:

Darn top mopers, it's a plague


Of course, as there are now more climbers who take bouldering seriously. Further, some rope manufacturers also now make and sell pads.

Mick

In reply to Paz:


Ah, so that's what it is all about. I think you will find that Francis is a keen observer of the climbing scene. He is also a merchant and has to make important purchasing decisions based on his own and others market observations. His questions, even if rhetorical are just as important as some 'important spokesperson' (please give us an example of one of those) or a leading climber.

In reply to Mick Ryan: If we accept that the definition of 'news' can vary across a continuum from a starchy academic journal at one end (i.e. facts) to a trashy tabloid/ celebrity mag at the other (i.e. pure nonsense) - then where would you place this particular piece of 'news'?

Noticed in the shop today that Climb mag have just started a new 4 page (admittedly quarterly) bouldering column. Do you think they misread the market? Surely not?

PS I've started bouldering again, now that it's getting colder. A bit like last year, and the year before that...

In reply to Simon Panton:

Oh dear ! One 'fact' discredited - two to go

In reply to Simon Panton:



You aren't paying attention Simon. The exponential rise may have slowed but there are more climbers who go bouldering today than ever before.

Climb have read the 'market' perfectly.

"nearly 70% of the nearly 17,000 registered climbers at UKC.com going bouldering"

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Mick, I've been looking for the original thread, but can not find it, please could you provide a link.

In reply to Mick Ryan:

So the 'news' now is not that the bubble has burst but that the exponential rise has slowed ?

- not quite so catchy

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4257

"Strange really, but I keep thinking of bringing my rope out of retirement! Am I mad? Has the bouldering bubble burst? or am I sat in a shop surrounded by loads of shiny hardwear that gives me the climbing itch?

Keep thinking about the Jim Grin up at trollers gill, do I have the stamina?
Should I just venture to Gig south and start on some easy clip ups?

Then there is the grit! I could just go to Brimham and start leading some clasic VS's and HVS's?

Or should I just stick to bouldering? Has it been whats my lifes all about? In which case should I end it all?"

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Is he your mate,it doens't sound like you talked to him?


When John Dunne wanted to stop bolting in Pembroke, he went and did Big Issue without bolts.
When Pat Littlejohn wanted to take stand against bolting on Lundy, he went and did (nearly all) the routes without the bolts. As did Nick Dixon in Cheedale on Clarion Call (though consensus have since decided it's better as a nice bolted warm up). And most recently a fellow named Ricky Bell cleared up one of the most awful of the bolting travesties, with the route Complete Scream (`E7') on fairhead. I didn't read about that on UKC news.

This has been the traditional way to make your point about climbing in the UK. There've been other E10 bits and bobs
that ask `what grade is it when you add two E9s together with a rest in the middle?', and a related question about `are the upper grades really accurate for honest onsights?'.
And on a subject close to your heart - artificial holds on yorkshire limestone, was it Tony Mitchell who climbed Nic Sellar's Justified and Ancient, without course to sica, creating Unjustifiable (is it called)?

It's all very well saying `Climbing news isn't just what people climb', but the things people climb is one of the first things you should try to cover in your climbing news isn't it?

In reply to Mick Ryan:

It was all a bit tounge in Cheek really.
But since posting that I haven't succomed to the way of the rope............yet.

P.S Do you think I should "end it all"?

In reply to Paz:

We met once circa 1986 at a Leeds Poly Climbing club meet. I never went again!

In reply to Paz:

We missed that pone Paz. Lot's here if you want to view the diversity: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html As more resources are available the coverage will be more comprehensive.

In reply to Mick Ryan: I was being sarcastic.

That said, the bouldering coverage in Climb is far less than what I'd been informed it would be (i.e. prior to their launch).

As for the main argument: it's been a long hot summer, therefore lots of people have been doing routes. Big deal.
Also, lots of the people on UKB whom you had lazily categorised as boulderers were actually climbers all along.

In reply to Simon Panton:

So was I.


Why's that do you think? Don't they have the beta-cheater thing each month?

In reply to Chris Fryer:

I dont check every site I regard as useful every week. If its changed thats good news.

In reply to Offwidth: Checkit. Word.

Oh Goody!

The Ent

In reply to Mick Ryan: So far as the bouldering bubble bursting, I think it's more the case that the sport isn't accelerating at the pace it was in the mid to late 90's there's been so much development over the last few years, and the introduction of new websites such as lakesbloc and yorkshire grit along with others, that there has a to be a break somwehere, and now when the conditions aren't right for hard problems is the time.

In reply to Chris Fryer:

By accident.

In reply to Chris Fryer:

Just checked and although the site seems much improved the forums bit is still full of guff. The 'tag' image for all posters is tiresome to me as its only funny once, and wastes space and bandwidth. I'd rather it was cleaned up even more. Sigh! Only in my early 40's and already an old fogee!

In reply to moo:

The most sensible thing said on this thread so far.

its like anything - its bound to slow up the rate that people just go bouldering - as there are only a finite number that will do so...

What i think Micks saying is that there has been a slowing down of a demographic trend - which is true...

But the journalisam behing the articlewas flawed - and thats when we all bite.

To say that Si Panton has even seen to be off doing routes - is like saying that even the boy Jacques has seen to be donning a Harness at Stanage & Froggatt & even on the limestone.

So what? We boulderers realise there is no sense in trying problems on grit in the summer when its roasting and get the harness out for some routes...

Now the weathers getting cooler & people have done the bolt clipping - the mats will appear again & we will all be back on that glorious sticky cold stuff.

...bring it on....

Si

In reply to Mick Ryan: The 'how to' thing is the worst thing in the mag. G thing or whatever it's called this month. Even I managed the stand up without too much hastle and with a completely different sequence. Why bother?

Good troll by the way Mick.

In reply to Simon:

I sometimes cant see what the problem is: most people dont boulder that hard and problems for mortals are harder in summer but not that much harder. Sounds a bit like Lemming behaviour?

Ceratinly on Baslow Square Stone on Thursday evening conditions were near perfect: cool to chilly in the breeze despite clammy midgy conditions below the edge.

In reply to Simon: There were only 4 others at Burbage South boulders on Sunday afternoon. Scientific proof that bloddering has had its day.

In reply to Simon:

You are a climber shirly? As Simon said, "Also, lots of the people on UKB whom you had lazily categorised as boulderers were actually climbers all along."

Just to add to the debate, Bubba, webmeister general of ukbouldering.com has just said, "I think the ukc thang might be valid ."

In reply to Richard Bradley:


ive seen G thang done totally diffently too..

i hate that part of climb & why oh why did they carry it over from OTE?

Much better was bloc sport from High - one or 2 pages of personal bouldering accounts - more interesting by far...

Si

In reply to Simon: Yep. Tell folk what you enjoy and why. point people at underused areas (Syplands folks Syplands). Tell them to have fun.

That reminds me, I must try that Tombstone thing soon.

In reply to Richard Bradley:


Shame innit?

The feeling of climb was to say that it would be more open to people to write for it than OTE..

The Bloc Sport collumn would have been great.

as it is - its fairly closed again

ive emailed a few times & got no feed back - such is a writers lot spose...

si

In reply to Mick Ryan:

i just love bouldering - always have & love it more & more each year.

Routes are a means to an end to be fair - im more likely to have a camera or 2 at a crag than a Harness!

;0)

In reply to Simon:


I shouldn't say this but I will. Perhaps the editor, Neil Pearsons, is too busy writing editorials about himself (see...no buy the latest issue). Actually quite a nice piece Neil, but the cult of personality and celebrity does seem to be taking over at Climb.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Well Pearson is so much up his own arse he could not bother to reply to emails or on here when I complained that Climb was not available here.
so, never get it, not chasing round for an expensive overblown mags opinion.

In reply to Mick Ryan:
Perhaps the editor, Neil Pearsons, is too busy writing editorials about himself (see...no buy the latest issue). Actually quite a nice piece Neil, but the cult of personality and celebrity does seem to be taking over at Climb.

Dear Mick

That was a bit cutting, have you not been mentioned in Climb, yet?

Norrie

In reply to Norrie Muir:


Whatever for Norrie? I'm a happy punter. See you at the Gunks this Sunday, me and Xav (11yrs old) are off to do some classic 5.7's and 5.8's?

Why not pop over in your private Jet. I'll get the chaffeur to pick you up at JFK.

In reply to Mick Ryan:


To be fair -the Manchester thing was great - but very cliquey...if you weren't there or knew what was what - it does come accross as such...

What im dissapponted about is that its still OTE with a bit of pazazz.

as i said - the BlocSport peices in High or indeed the back passages were chances for the common man to have their say.

To stop them was a bad move...

Si

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Dear Mick

I prefer to climbers who can't write, so, I will e-mail you my ETA.

Norrie

In reply to Mick Ryan:


Or, more accurately, he wrote, "If it was the depths of a cold gritstone winter and nobody was bouldering then I think the ukc thang might be valid."

Which is basically the total opposite in meaning Mick. Come on. Try and keep some tiny semblance of journolistic accuracy in your reporting. Quoting half sentences is about as low as you can get without actually inventing quotes.

In reply to Simon: Where are the alternative? Here? Friction?

In reply to Agent Moog:


Thats the life of a journo - we thrive on them...

taking a quote out of context is standard fayre!!

;0)

In reply to Agent Moog:

You guys want to make up your minds, it's either too hot in the summer or too cold in the winter. Do you actually go bouldering?

Further, the question posed is has the rise in bouldering reached a plateau? The increase in the number of climbers bouldering is indesputable.

What do you reckon? Bubble burst, has it ran out of steam?
Rising more slowly?

Wadda think?

In reply to Mick Ryan:


never too cold to go bouldering - always on the rock when its not raining in the winter - colder the better!



Maybe - the worrying thing for me is the erosion - wear - brushing - over use of donkey ticks - and some vandilism...

That and the litter - why do people do it??

i spent 20 mins at Burbage litter picking on Sunday - thinking whats the point - but nevertheless trying to keep the place tidy...

if you seek bouldering news Mick - there are a number of things that the BMC are doing in the Peak that are worth talking about - Damage - Access - Conservation - erosion & a basic awareness of the problems...

Maybe we need to move towards the above as news???

Cheers

Si
Peak Bouldering Access Rep

In reply to Simon: I started bouldering before I started 'climbing', 20 odd years later I haven't stopped.

I haven't stopped self loving either, what does this tell you Mick?

Other than I should wak eup Mrs Sloper and discuss the issue.

In reply to sloper:


That you are quite normal.

In reply to Simon:

It's alawys sunny and brisk here Simon.

http://www.boldering.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20891

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Oh come on! What I said was:

"If it was the depths of a cold gritstone winter and nobody was bouldering then I think the ukc thang might be valid"

That's a big "If".

In reply to Mick Ryan:

what's bouldering? Is it that thing you do with the Tetley beer mat at Widdop, when you forget your rope.

Is it over, is that it?

What do you have to say to Grandma?

In reply to ukb:

Wrong answer anyway Bubba as it's not a seasonal thing.

In reply to Mick Ryan: oh look:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4437&postdays=0&posto...
and bubba's post

Bouldering is the king, if you ain't UKB you ain't cool.

In reply to Mick Ryan: Is that a definite answer Mick? Clearly to some people it is a seasonal thing, or else they wouldn't do it in a certain season?

In reply to andi_e:


Don't be a prat andi.

In reply to Chris Fryer: word homeboy, you's definitely cool though innit. to b a wad you have to post on UKB, it's official.

In reply to Chris Fryer:

You're off topic Chris, not that that is a bad thing

In reply to andi_e:

I post on UKB and I am not a Wad, whatever a wad is?
I'm a 40 year old father of two, that likes to boulder, thats why I post on a bouldering forum.

I hate to think what other forums an idiot like you posts on.

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: Wad=strong climber.

In reply to andi_e: Well then, he stands by his post!

In reply to andi_e:

Really in over 20 years of climbing I've never heard of a strong climber refered to as a wad.

http://www.onelook.com/?w=wad&ls=a I think you should spend more time paying attention in school rather than talking shite on the internet.

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:

Maybe thats because your just not telly?

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:

Jerry Peel is a wad.

In fact he's a King Wad.

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Only following your cue Michael. Is it still hot and sweaty in Saratoga Springs, or is it getting cooler now?

In reply to Chris Fryer:

Bouldering was quite cool on Sunday at Nine Corners Lake in the Adirondacks.

Hoping for fall-like temps on Sunday at the Gunks when Xav is going to lead something.

In reply to Mick Ryan: That's not a pleasant thing to wish on your son, fall-like temperatures. Is that temperatures when he will, like, fall? I wish him pleasant autumnal conditions and good climbing.

In reply to Mick Ryan: Joe Healey was a wad, so was Geoff Hibbert, but for different reasons.

I always thought Micky Johnston should have been given honorary wad status.

Really, there should be some sort of annual award ceremony.

In reply to Simon Panton:

>Really, there should be some sort of annual award ceremony.

Shurely you mean a wad ceremony

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Our annual trip to the Gunks to climb moderate trad with the kids is probably my favorite climbing trip of the year. I dare any climber with a soul to walk under the uberclassic Gill Egg V4 dyno without giving it a throw!

In reply to stow:

I'll be throwing Stow.

Mick

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Ay they all seem to be men on UKB, why's that?

I am a lady, and I boulder as much as climb but had not heard of UKB. Am just out of the loop I guess, and get out too much.

PS innit

In reply to rock_waif:

Good question. Maybe one of the UKbouldering chaps would like to attempt to answer that?

I have a friend, a woman, who is moving from the UK, and one of the reasons she gives is that there just isn't that many women climbing in the UK compared to where she plans to move (somewhere in North America).

Mick
innit

In reply to Mick Ryan: There are loads of women climber in the UK. A good few of them boulder. Maybe UKB is too hardcore for them?

What I don't understand is why you have such a downer on UKB? You obviously enjoy bouldering yourself. Why the downer on them? Just your natural trolling tendancy or something deeper?

In reply to Richard Bradley:

I love UKbouldering Richard. It's an interesting read. Don't have a downer on it all. They do seem a tad sensitive however.

In reply to rock_waif: There are a few, they just don't make themselves as obvious as on here.

In reply to Chris Fryer:

I see.