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The role of climbing in French culture

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 gabriel_m 07 Sep 2007
Im in the middle of researching a project on the role of climbing in French culture, something of a working title. I was wondering if anyone could help in a number of ways. Although climbing is a widely practised sport now all over the world, there is still a painfully small amount written about it. While the internet is a useful resource, because the essay will somewhat academic in nature, Id like to try and stick to published books as much as I can.

However another massively useful resource is people, thats where you come in. If there are any native French climbers now living in the UK, who could help me answer a now growing number of questions, or better yet any who wouldnt mind conducting an interview (in either language) about their personal views ont the matter I would be very grateful. Also if there are any British guides who are familiar with the French climbing authorities, your experiences would be very helpful too.

To be honest anyone with any thoughts to contribute about how the French people view climbing would be much appreciated. Either PM me if youve got a lot of information or would like to get in touch or post any thoughts in the thread. Cheers
rich 07 Sep 2007
In reply to gabriel_m: i'm just re-reading 'eiger dreams' (jon krakuer) which i think is republished articles (outside magazine?)

anyway, the chapter 'Chamonix' has quite a lot on how french climbers are national stars (compared to similar 'status' US climbers), references to Paris-Match articles, speculation that the french admire 'individualist' sports stars compared to team sportstars in the UAS - stuff like that

it's probably a bit lightweight for you but it'd only take you a few minutes to read if you could get a copy
 Doug 07 Sep 2007
In reply to gabriel_m: British living in France but I've been a member of CAF for around 15 years if thats any use. Are you looking for current day or a more historical perspective ? - if the later there's a book (I think based on a PhD thesis) by Olivier Hoibian - 'Les alpinistes en France 1870-1950 une histoire culturelle' which might be worth looking at (if you haven't already)

And rock climbing per se or climbing in general ?
 Doug 07 Sep 2007
In reply to Doug: meant to add that the CAF library in Paris is very good with helpful staff if you want to vist & trawl through their collection of books, magazines, journals etc. Details on the CAF website
 stonewall 07 Sep 2007
In reply to gabriel_m:

when climbing in australia last year I met a couple of french climbers who suggested (after a few beers) that the universal bolting of french rock climbing routes might reflect a social characteristic of relying on something else (such as the state) rather than taking personal responsibility for the risks inherent in life...

...stands well back !

 Andy Say 07 Sep 2007
In reply to stonewall:
I thought that was the Swiss?
 Mick Ward 07 Sep 2007
In reply to gabriel_m:

> Although climbing is a widely practised sport now all over the world, there is still a painfully small amount written about it.

Eh?

Mick
 aln 07 Sep 2007
In reply to stonewall: There's loads of trad in France.
In reply to stonewall:
> (In reply to gabriel_m)
>
> when climbing in australia last year I met a couple of french climbers who suggested (after a few beers) that the universal bolting of french rock climbing routes might reflect a social characteristic of relying on something else (such as the state) rather than taking personal responsibility for the risks inherent in life...
>

Yeah right! That's why the French are into extreme Alpinism, skiing, paracending and all the rest. In reality bolted climbs in France more probably reflect the egalitarian desire to open up the hobby of climbing to as many people as possible, including kids and women (and good on em!), the vast amount of climbable rock there is in France which means they are less precious about the way it is used than one finds in the UK, the desire to push physical limits, rather than bimble up some crappy VS pretending one is Johnny Dawes and so on.

A bit OT and most everyone has probably seen this before but doesn't the following show French people 'taking personal responsibility for the risks inherent in life'?

http://www.acro-base.com/fr/imgs/galerie/video/videos/eiger06/eiger06.mov

In reply to Andy Say:
> (In reply to stonewall)
> I thought that was the Swiss?

The Swiss? They are so right-wing they don't even have a national health service!



Quiet Corners 07 Sep 2007
In reply to gabriel_m:

I am afraid that I cannot underpin this with rigorous statistical analysis..... but when we used to go to France with Livesey's little book, I always noticed how the French groups seemed to be more family based with parents and kids, as opposed to the UK scene at the time which seemed to mainly be two blokes out together.

Maybe the warm weather made it all much more relaxed in France ? I think things have changed in the UK now, with climbing walls and centres making the whole sport far more accessible to a larger cross section.

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