UKC

Getting psyched about a trip to Cornwall this summer. Never done any routes down there, but went scrambling there a few summers ago which is what prompted me to learn to climb...

Anyone have any favourite routes in West Penwith? Recommendations of Crag classics are good, but as they are in the guidebooks anyway, it would be fab to know if anyone has any unsung 1-star gems, sadly forgotten crags, or hairy adventure stories thereof. Granite, Greenstone or Killas.

About VS - easy HVS, though willing to do easier stuff that's worth doing, or push the boat out a bit if it's easy for the grade or safe. Stuff always considered below that if it's worth doing. Particularly interested in any recommendations for more adventurous stuff though obviously happier if this is within our grade if it is serious - think technically reasonable, but in amazing situations - stuff like Kinky Boots, Heart of Darkness, or A Dream of White Horses.

Camp site recommendations would be brilliant as well. I am aware of Trevedra, we are probably going to be on foot, so walking distance of one of the big crags would be a plus.

Cheers for any thoughts...

In reply to plexiglass_nick: One route that doesn't get a lot of attention but is very good is Land's End long climb. Easy, but traditional; one wide back and foot pitch and a classic elbow jam. Otherwise, all those starred routes are starred for good reason.

If you're on foot then you may be in for some work to get to more than two or three crags; the campsite just past the first and last would put Sennen, Chair ladder and Land's End within walking distance, but it would be worth checking out public transport options too.

T.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:
have a browse through these two...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=230910&v=1#x3396184
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=25373&v=1#x342638

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Oh go on then.....the classics are wonderful of course, but some slightly-less-classic ideas.

Helluva Slab (Severe). A slight thing, but in a wonderful position.

Aireline, and the climbs on the veined slab behind Aire Point. A lovely part of the coastline.

(Both suitable for lazy days including a walk).

Seahorse (Chairladder). A f*ck-off gritstone-style struggle (a poor man's Brutaliser) in the best tradition, set in a surprisingly exposed position on a wall which is a beautiful colour in the evening. It's a stout heart which doesn't quail looking up into the crux pod.

Aerial (CL). Perhaps this is a classic, but I like it - in a lovely exposed position above the sea.

The Mitre (also CL). A grotty gully, manky stance (though don't miss the mitre) and then suddenly bang - perfect granite and huge exposure on the crux. Quite frightening.

Sideshow (HVS) is worth doing at the same time as Variety Show.

Martell Slab at Lamorna is nice and quite hard for VS but there's not that much else to do there and it's a bit of a boring walk.

On the other hand St Loy is a marvellous walk and a real suntrap with a lovely atmosphere for lazing about. I suppose at your grade Chlorophyll Cluster and that VS whose name escapes me are the obvious two, but there are others.

jcm

In reply to cornishben:

Blimey - Behemoth's start not something a lot of chalk can't sort out!! Not always it isn't.

jcm

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Paragon HVS Bosigran (interesting line with some great moves)
Little Brown Jug VS Bosigran (top end VS and a fabulous climb)
Diocese VS Chair Ladder (if you do no other route, do this!)
Right Angle HS Gurnard's Head (outrageous positions for a HS)

In reply to Pursued by a bear:

Cheers for the recommendation... we are used to walking a little bit, and think that we may restrict ourselves to a bit of the coast anyway - that's the way it goes with no car. Considering the option of taking bikes and cycling to the crags - depends how steep the roads are, I reckon!

In reply to cornishben:

Cheers for highlighting those. Did a search but didn't pick those up. Lots to browse through - just skimmed them (as am technically meant to be doing some work!) but Saxon looks brilliant, and have picked out Botallack Head Zawn from the guidebook as probably worth a visit.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Brilliant, cheers John. Will have a browse through those. On reflection I might have been a bit conservative on grades in the OP - HVS is probably ok as long as it's not a complete sandbag, and would consider E1 provided failure does not equal death by drowning.

That being said, Seahorse sounds quite fearsome.

Behemoth is on the wish list! one day...

In reply to bpmclimb:

Already have my eye on Little Brown Jug, Diocese and Right Angle... definitely want to do the last if only to go and take a look at Behemoth!

In reply to plexiglass_nick: Also dont miss South Face Direct on Chair Ladder, for years underated it finally emerged with its deserved 3 stars.

In reply to Al Evans:

>Also dont miss South Face Direct on Chair Ladder, for years underated it finally emerged with its deserved 3 stars.

the pictures of it look brilliant! definitely one to check out.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

If you're willing to give E1 a go then definitely have a crack at Bishops Rib, Chair Ladder, the E2 direct start is also not as daring as it looks and avoids the greasy/wet start on the right hand side

I would warn you off Suicide wall in Bosigran though unless you are really confident. I found it high in the grade and bailed at the start of the third pitch. I would be interested in other peoples views on this.

Anvil Chorus (VS) in Bosigran is another classic you really must try as well an awesome lay back that then goes straight into a hand traverse! mega!

If going to sennen you should definitely have a crack at Demo Route. It is only a S, but still an awesome route. With clever rope work you can do it in 1 pitch.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

All the recommendations so far are brilliant. If you like soloing try commando ridge - my best solo ever.

I found diocese quite hard but superlative

We also found a very nice cafe on the a30 - a kind of stately home advertising archery just west of penzanze.

In reply to plexiglass_nick: Would agree with reccomendations for South Face Direct...an excellent climb. I also really enjoyed Saxon at Kendjack, it's an HVS and looks quite intimidating (or at least it did to me!) but when you get on it is fantastic. Low end HVS great gear all the way but really enjoyable.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

You mean Cress Cendo (or something like that) ??

The Treverven campsite is a great base for St Loy and Porthguarnon which you pass on the way.

Not too far from there too is cribba Head where there is harder and a VS 5a whose name I can't remembeer. A lovely unfrequented spot though.

Helluva Slab is indeed in a wonderful position

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

If you are at ChairLadder, Kittwake is a blinder at HVS. Can be accessed at high tide, too, by belaying on the left end of the easy slab,