UKC

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

'Best Limestone Problem' for its grade, no?!

Entertaining observation about Midnight Lightning. The words, 'I knew Jack Kennedy' came to mind.

Does look nice though.

jcm

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: It must be great if you have to glue the problem back together again after each time you do it!!!

Andy

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

Come on guys! I know I don't boulder, or pretend to begin to understand it, but is it honestly the case that the best V8 in the country sports an ugly glued hold?

Have you guys lost all appreciation of the aesthetic in your search for the perfect move?

(Okay - let me have it...)

Neil

In reply to Neil Foster:
No, I am sure you are right.

In reply to Neil Foster:
i can see your point Neil, although if it is glued in its original position i can see nothing wrong with it... However, why did he glue it lower? i cant understand that...

In reply to Neil Foster: Neil I can promise you that you would be deeply inspired if you stood underneath this beauty. The photographs don't really do it justice (my fault I know).

This is what happened: Chris tried the line, the hold broke, so he stabilised it with some glue. On the first ascent it felt like it was breaking again, so he returned and cleaned off all the suspect/loose stuff and was left with a clean, solid unglued hold at a slightly lower level.

Lots of classic problems/routes have been cleaned or had stabilisation attempts made in this fashion. No big deal really.

In reply to Simon Panton also at home:

Am I correct in thinking that glueing holds goes against one of your bouldering ten commandments?

Can't say I'm against it tho - the problem looks fantastic, be a shame to render it unclimbable, or worse - possible but crap

To put the cat amongst the pigeons I'd also like to add that "no wire brushing whatsoever" (or words to that effect) may apply to bouldering at large but is a ridiculous notion when it comes to cleaning a new trad route on mountain rock.

My kit for this kind of cleaning includes an old ice axe, patio scraper, pruning saw, wire brush and nylon brush.

That may piss a few souls off on these forums, probably the ones that like pretty places, hate windfarms and drive hulking great 4x4s up and down the M6 between London and the lakes every weekend.

Ahhhh, thats better.