This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Following on from the other thread (how many trad leads in 2008) - how may trad lead falls have you had in 2008?
I've had one, plus one controlled "jump" when it became obvious that I was going to fall. Neither resulted in any injury.
I thought I was going to come off a third time at Gogarth - luckily I didn't as the consequences would have been fairly unpleasant.
I've had one, plus one controlled "jump" when it became obvious that I was going to fall. Neither resulted in any injury.
I thought I was going to come off a third time at Gogarth - luckily I didn't as the consequences would have been fairly unpleasant.
In reply to kingholmesy: More than I can count
In reply to kingholmesy:
One insignificant fall off a fairly big, serious route and several more annoying falls off a much smaller one (which just seems to be my 'bogey' route)!
One insignificant fall off a fairly big, serious route and several more annoying falls off a much smaller one (which just seems to be my 'bogey' route)!
In reply to kingholmesy: Two.
In reply to kingholmesy:
1, fell on the crux of Chequer's Buttress @ Froggatt, ended up about 3m off the floor having missed a nut placement just before... 6/7m fall on my first HVS lead :-S Finished the route though
1, fell on the crux of Chequer's Buttress @ Froggatt, ended up about 3m off the floor having missed a nut placement just before... 6/7m fall on my first HVS lead :-S Finished the route though
In reply to kingholmesy:
One yesterday at Brimham on my own hex - it held and I merely hit my leg.
One in the Summer at Castle Naze on the stuck nut and cam in Studio. Hit my shin but was a mere bruise.
One yesterday at Brimham on my own hex - it held and I merely hit my leg.
One in the Summer at Castle Naze on the stuck nut and cam in Studio. Hit my shin but was a mere bruise.
In reply to kingholmesy: 1, off my first e3, did then subsequently jump back on and clean it as fell most about 6m onto a number 8 nut to just above the deck after my foot popped off a pebble whilst placing some gear, did'nt get chance to get the gear in tho...
In reply to kingholmesy:
Four, three of which the gear was both good and above me resulting in falls of 1-2m or less.
Sadly, the fourth ended my trad season when I tested out my ability to fly breaking my thumb in the process. I fell 8-9m bouncing on the way down stopping rather closer to the ground than I'd have liked. I've now got a squint and rotated thumb but it works and I'm alive which could easily not have been the case. I've been very very lucky and will think a lot harder before climbing above bad gear in future.
Four, three of which the gear was both good and above me resulting in falls of 1-2m or less.
Sadly, the fourth ended my trad season when I tested out my ability to fly breaking my thumb in the process. I fell 8-9m bouncing on the way down stopping rather closer to the ground than I'd have liked. I've now got a squint and rotated thumb but it works and I'm alive which could easily not have been the case. I've been very very lucky and will think a lot harder before climbing above bad gear in future.
In reply to kingholmesy: Only one 'real' fall on an E4 at Rylstone, ended up inverting, rather nasty. I had climbed up and down the same move many times, but a gritty shoe soon sent me flying.
In reply to kingholmesy: One.
In reply to kingholmesy:
Only one this year, well actually two but they were both off the same route. Little Innominate at Curbar - yet another VS jamming crack that's defeated me
Only one this year, well actually two but they were both off the same route. Little Innominate at Curbar - yet another VS jamming crack that's defeated me
In reply to andi turner:
Good for you sir! If you ain't flyin' you ain't tryin'.
I feel like I haven't done so much this year - so maybe just a dozen or so if you don't include sport. But all the scary falls I have taken have been sport climbing.
> About 50?
Good for you sir! If you ain't flyin' you ain't tryin'.
I feel like I haven't done so much this year - so maybe just a dozen or so if you don't include sport. But all the scary falls I have taken have been sport climbing.
In reply to kingholmesy: Only one memorable one off the traverse from the cave on Piccadily Circus at Millstone. Had a crappy, nut in, not for lack of good gear available but failing technique and pump, and the rest were in the sandy crap right down to the bomber crack. Could have been a right good fall, but luckily the nuut held. It was pointing down and out towards me when I looked back up and I sheepishly lowered off. ) :
In reply to Matt Maynard: Glancing at ma logs about-15 and few biggys as well but all good. Reckon you need a good long safe fall onto bomber gear every now and again to remind you the system works.
In reply to kingholmesy:what have I started!
Anyway, I havent kept a record of trad falls, but i'd guess at about 7 or 8, nothing big this year, maybe 12ft max. Last years best(worst) was about 35ft.
Anyway, I havent kept a record of trad falls, but i'd guess at about 7 or 8, nothing big this year, maybe 12ft max. Last years best(worst) was about 35ft.
In reply to petestack:
will do next year but i certainly havent missed out on much in the last eight years.
> (In reply to The Pylon King)
> [...]
>
> 'Must try harder!' :-P
> [...]
>
> 'Must try harder!' :-P
will do next year but i certainly havent missed out on much in the last eight years.
In reply to kingholmesy: One.
In reply to kingholmesy: One maybe one & half if you count a 2ft drop to rest of gear. Been quite uneventful year on that front. Probably has as much to do with the miserable summer we had as anything else.
In reply to kingholmesy:
I had my first longish (25' or so) trad lead fall this year on Anvil Chorus at Bozzi. It was very reasuring that the whole system worked so well! I must remember not to be so scared of it.
I had my first longish (25' or so) trad lead fall this year on Anvil Chorus at Bozzi. It was very reasuring that the whole system worked so well! I must remember not to be so scared of it.
In reply to kingholmesy: 2 ground falls, one of which resulted in a broken leg, and a few slumps onto gear.
In reply to kingholmesy:
One. Onto an RP3. And a rock 4. But it showered tourists with debris.
The rest of the time I just yelled take, but my back still aches from this one fall, and I just wish I felt emancipated.
One. Onto an RP3. And a rock 4. But it showered tourists with debris.
The rest of the time I just yelled take, but my back still aches from this one fall, and I just wish I felt emancipated.
In reply to kingholmesy:
There's a simple answer to that...
> (In reply to andi turner)
> [...]
>
> Why so many?
> [...]
>
> Why so many?
There's a simple answer to that...
In reply to Diggler:
I know for sure that's more than me. And you've certainly had more spectactular ones than me!
I'm not sure exactly but I think it'd take almost all my fingers to count them, if not 5 of my toes too.
But there's still time for more...
I could catch you up on Saturday mate.
> (In reply to kingholmesy) More than I can count
I know for sure that's more than me. And you've certainly had more spectactular ones than me!
I'm not sure exactly but I think it'd take almost all my fingers to count them, if not 5 of my toes too.
But there's still time for more...
I could catch you up on Saturday mate.
In reply to kingholmesy: One.
Zero, excluding a couple of feeble slumps on gear. Generally want to keep it that way.
In reply to andi turner:
Yeah, on one route!
Me: zero, unless we can count The Death Knell collection.
Hmm, I really pushed it out this year...
Yeah, on one route!
Me: zero, unless we can count The Death Knell collection.
Hmm, I really pushed it out this year...
In reply to kingholmesy:
Never actually fallen off anything, or weighted gear on the lead.
I think I need to push myself a bit harder, I took a 5 foot leader fall at the climbing wall the other day for the first time, although I rarely climb inside. I nearly fell off my first attempt at an E2, but I managed to downclimb. I guess I quite like the idea that I have never weighted gear outdoors whilst on the lead, but it will change as I want to push on through the grades. I struggle with the idea of trusting trad gear though.
Never actually fallen off anything, or weighted gear on the lead.
I think I need to push myself a bit harder, I took a 5 foot leader fall at the climbing wall the other day for the first time, although I rarely climb inside. I nearly fell off my first attempt at an E2, but I managed to downclimb. I guess I quite like the idea that I have never weighted gear outdoors whilst on the lead, but it will change as I want to push on through the grades. I struggle with the idea of trusting trad gear though.
Trad - six falls plus about six instances of resting / slumping on gear
Sport - one fall and a few rests / slumps, somehow can't remember as well as for trad.
Most notable was a flyer off the top crux of Regent Street which I think was about six metres - a mate managed to get three or four photos of it!
Sport - one fall and a few rests / slumps, somehow can't remember as well as for trad.
Most notable was a flyer off the top crux of Regent Street which I think was about six metres - a mate managed to get three or four photos of it!
In reply to kingholmesy:
One. My very first ever. Dead proud 'cos my gear held and I wasn't freaked. Woo hoo!
(In my defence, it was wet)
One. My very first ever. Dead proud 'cos my gear held and I wasn't freaked. Woo hoo!
(In my defence, it was wet)
In reply to kingholmesy:
FOUr
FOUr
In reply to kingholmesy: I've had a few, but the most merorable by far was from the top to bottom of burbage south of Life Assurance.
In reply to kingholmesy: I've had about half a dozen or so this year, most of which were on a route where I couldn't reach the finishing holds so I resorted to dynoing - I'm not very good at dynos ;P
In reply to kingholmesy:
4 I think, the last of which resulted in a broken ankle and no more climbing for me this year
4 I think, the last of which resulted in a broken ankle and no more climbing for me this year
In reply to kingholmesy: loads, only 1 that really hurt tho.prob 20 on one route. 1 when foot slipped and 1 when the gear all ripped.
In reply to kingholmesy: One, the rock was unexpectedly greasy and my hands slipped off. I fell on a big friend right above the belay ledge (I was leading a second pitch). It held and I swinged right back onto the ledge, with a gentle landing And for some reason I felt a lot more confident after my fall... climbed the second pitch no problem!
In reply to kingholmesy:
I know this thread been going a while, but I only just found it...
I've had 2 trad lead falls in 2008, but those were my very first trad lead falls, so I feel they are quite pertinent to my climbing!
I know this thread been going a while, but I only just found it...
I've had 2 trad lead falls in 2008, but those were my very first trad lead falls, so I feel they are quite pertinent to my climbing!
In reply to kingholmesy:
I've just found it as well
I've had hundreds of little falls onto gear, 4 or 5 medium falls onto gear, and one great big fall, onto LOTS of gear :P
Most exciting fall however was falling off a solo at scugdale (hold crumbled) bouncing off the mat, rolling a bit and getting up unhurt (due to blind luck, i have no falling technique, i just went limp with fear :P )
I've just found it as well
I've had hundreds of little falls onto gear, 4 or 5 medium falls onto gear, and one great big fall, onto LOTS of gear :P
Most exciting fall however was falling off a solo at scugdale (hold crumbled) bouncing off the mat, rolling a bit and getting up unhurt (due to blind luck, i have no falling technique, i just went limp with fear :P )
In reply to petestack:
Not exactly applying for a pilots licence with your airtime mate.
Nil for me. Well, nil onto gear anyway.
> (In reply to The Pylon King)
> [...]
>
> 'Must try harder!' :-P
> [...]
>
> 'Must try harder!' :-P
Not exactly applying for a pilots licence with your airtime mate.
Nil for me. Well, nil onto gear anyway.
5 by the looks of things.
The ones that I can remember are:
1. 8m whipper of The Big Zipper - placed last bit of gear at 5m and ran it out to the top, slipped of the final holds as it was wet and went a bit of a long way!
2 and 3 - both trying to get my first E4 onight, and failing. Both piddly little ones on to good gear.
4. 3m fall on an E2 on Pabbay that I tried to climb, even though the route was soaking and it was starting to rain again...5 days of rain makes you a bit desperate!
5. 3m fall off an E2 arete that has no gear, kind of lucky on that one!
The ones that I can remember are:
1. 8m whipper of The Big Zipper - placed last bit of gear at 5m and ran it out to the top, slipped of the final holds as it was wet and went a bit of a long way!
2 and 3 - both trying to get my first E4 onight, and failing. Both piddly little ones on to good gear.
4. 3m fall on an E2 on Pabbay that I tried to climb, even though the route was soaking and it was starting to rain again...5 days of rain makes you a bit desperate!
5. 3m fall off an E2 arete that has no gear, kind of lucky on that one!
2, I think.
1) Getting pumped on The Organ Grinder, Shorncliff
2) Pulling off a hoofing great jug when reversing the 2nd pitch of Exposure Explosion (I think this counts as a lead fall, as I took a reasonable swing!)
1) Getting pumped on The Organ Grinder, Shorncliff
2) Pulling off a hoofing great jug when reversing the 2nd pitch of Exposure Explosion (I think this counts as a lead fall, as I took a reasonable swing!)
In reply to kingholmesy: ZERO!! I feel theres going to be lots next year!!
In reply to kingholmesy:
only falls i took were: repeated falls/jumps on overhanging crack e2 5c on bomber gear or jumping onto a bouldering mat - i knew i was never going to get up it.
and i took one fall very randomly on malky the alcy (my 1st e1 lead) at cambusbarron, was onto a bomber cam and came off very unexpectedly as my foot popped off a smear without warning; was really stoaked to do it after that so lowered off and got back on it and sent it no problems!
only falls i took were: repeated falls/jumps on overhanging crack e2 5c on bomber gear or jumping onto a bouldering mat - i knew i was never going to get up it.
and i took one fall very randomly on malky the alcy (my 1st e1 lead) at cambusbarron, was onto a bomber cam and came off very unexpectedly as my foot popped off a smear without warning; was really stoaked to do it after that so lowered off and got back on it and sent it no problems!
In reply to kingholmesy:
5, and all very eventful!
Number 1, was a 7 m lob of the crux(?) of Vector. We managed to get to the top of the 5c pitch by sundown as the heavens opened, in combination with dropping gear, guidebooks and only having 1 rope, it all got a bit epic really.
Number 2, falling off lightening wall on Swanage onto a brand new (literally) pair of dry treated ropes, still havent done a HVS there!
Number 3 and 4 both on 'One rawl for all' attempt at a bolt protected Avon E3, I perhaps defined a new term for the OED by doing this, scraping the ground after 8m free fall. New word: Volatum Fortunum (latin - lucky flight! wonder if it will catch on), saved by Paz.
Number 5, trying to aid around a roof on the Frendo spur, 'clipping' a piece of tat and resting on it - only to find the tat mysteriously not clipped, and thence flying through the air unbelayed as my partner slung the loose end of the rope around a spike. Lucky that!
Hopefully 2009 will be as eventful ... or less?
5, and all very eventful!
Number 1, was a 7 m lob of the crux(?) of Vector. We managed to get to the top of the 5c pitch by sundown as the heavens opened, in combination with dropping gear, guidebooks and only having 1 rope, it all got a bit epic really.
Number 2, falling off lightening wall on Swanage onto a brand new (literally) pair of dry treated ropes, still havent done a HVS there!
Number 3 and 4 both on 'One rawl for all' attempt at a bolt protected Avon E3, I perhaps defined a new term for the OED by doing this, scraping the ground after 8m free fall. New word: Volatum Fortunum (latin - lucky flight! wonder if it will catch on), saved by Paz.
Number 5, trying to aid around a roof on the Frendo spur, 'clipping' a piece of tat and resting on it - only to find the tat mysteriously not clipped, and thence flying through the air unbelayed as my partner slung the loose end of the rope around a spike. Lucky that!
Hopefully 2009 will be as eventful ... or less?
In reply to kingholmesy: Two - a massive winger at the start of the year at Ilkley, and over summer I jumped off Left Wall when I got pumped out of my mind (hey, was having a bad day!). Rope stretch and being a way above my gear meant I ended up about thirty foot lower down, wheeee!
> Number 1, was a 7 m lob of the crux(?) of Vector.
If that was on the ochre groove then was it on the rusty peg? Would be amazed if it could hold such a fall! There is some good gear thereabouts though.
> Number 5, trying to aid around a roof on the Frendo spur
Not sure the Frendo is meant to have roofs on it, particularly ones requiring aiding! Must have gone off route - easily done though, I did at one stage and ended up doing the hardest climbing of (as opposed to on!) the route whilst simulclimbing with diminishing supply of gear.
In reply to kingholmesy:
One, Crack of Doom VS 4c at Almscliff. I've managed to control my other descents and back offs otherwise! It was (and I knew it was) bomber gear but I think as it happens had I gone for it more, I wouldn't have fallen! Great route though.
One, Crack of Doom VS 4c at Almscliff. I've managed to control my other descents and back offs otherwise! It was (and I knew it was) bomber gear but I think as it happens had I gone for it more, I wouldn't have fallen! Great route though.
In reply to Sean_J: Just remembered I took a few off of Milky Way, trying to onsight / GU it. Must try harder next time!
In reply to Misha:
(The quoting is getting a bit rediculous but hey!)
It was above the peg, around the bulge and starting the crack, managed to get a low nut in. And yes that peg looked utterly disgusting - I climb at Avon though so I am immune to crap pegs.
The 'roof' was just below the snow line, about 3 pitches above the technical crux of the route (the long corner type thing) I don't think it was off route because it led fairly faithfully up from the crux (which I am certain we were on - tat galore). Good route ay.
(The quoting is getting a bit rediculous but hey!)
It was above the peg, around the bulge and starting the crack, managed to get a low nut in. And yes that peg looked utterly disgusting - I climb at Avon though so I am immune to crap pegs.
The 'roof' was just below the snow line, about 3 pitches above the technical crux of the route (the long corner type thing) I don't think it was off route because it led fairly faithfully up from the crux (which I am certain we were on - tat galore). Good route ay.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...