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Anyone been out in the helvelyn area over the last couple of days? Is the fresh snow consolidating or are the gullies going to be out of action this weekend? Any thoughts appreciated. Cheers
In reply to Shamus: What grade? There were other options for easier gullies in great nick today.
In reply to MattG: Was hoping to do the grade II gully above red tarn or some thing simmilar, but the conditions weren't sounding promising from the weatherline felltop conditions report.
In reply to Shamus:
Was up on Brown Cove today, was going to descend the grade 1 gully, but would have been mad. Probably about 6 inches new snow like sugar, just fell away from snowpack when i dug a quick test. Didn't even have to touch it. So we backed off and walked round.
There was however a team in each of the gullies when we got back to the bottom of the crag, but i would stay well away at the moment.
Was up on Brown Cove today, was going to descend the grade 1 gully, but would have been mad. Probably about 6 inches new snow like sugar, just fell away from snowpack when i dug a quick test. Didn't even have to touch it. So we backed off and walked round.
There was however a team in each of the gullies when we got back to the bottom of the crag, but i would stay well away at the moment.
In reply to ollyroberts:
would agree with those comments snow just rolling around very powdery and useless at the moment needs a few freeze thaw actions i think before it comes in to condition
would agree with those comments snow just rolling around very powdery and useless at the moment needs a few freeze thaw actions i think before it comes in to condition
In reply to Shamus: STAY AWAY FROM GULLIES!! ..some corniced, especially east, north east facing/powdery snow on top of old consolidated snow.. I'd waitt
In reply to Shamus: This link is invaluable http://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/weatherline
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Personally I think it's useless, if you went by the OTT warnings on there then nobody would ever get any climbing done!
> This link is invaluable
Personally I think it's useless, if you went by the OTT warnings on there then nobody would ever get any climbing done!
In reply to Toreador: Take the cornice and tarn warnings with a pinch of salt, but the observed of weather and snowline/conditions are pretty useful. Very handy to check mwis forecast against the actual.
In reply to Shamus: The grade II at Red Screes should be ok, I did Easy Gully on Dow yesterday, good conditions as long as it hasn't snowed any more round coniston it should be good today as well. It's better than the red tarn gullies too
In reply to Toreador: I know it's OTT on the warnings, but there's still a lot of useful objective material there which helps you to make your own judgements.
In reply to bullwinkle: If it helps, yesterday and today there looked white from the road, with fresh snow down to below the crag level. Prior to this, they looked black.
In reply to bullwinkle: No
In reply to Shamus: As others have mentioned, wait until we have a period of freeze thaw coditions and let the new stuff bond with the old neve already in the Gullies. No doubt however some of the young team will be posting, saying how fantastic conditions are.
Ian.
Ian.
In reply to Ian Black: Do you know if inaccessable is threatened by gully slides ?
i know its a gully but not in the strictest terms ! any advice appreciated as we MAY be giving it a look in the morning :O)with a back up of dropping into hart crag for the icefalls or maybe pendulum ridge.
if its pants it'll be a winery walk out !
jas
i know its a gully but not in the strictest terms ! any advice appreciated as we MAY be giving it a look in the morning :O)with a back up of dropping into hart crag for the icefalls or maybe pendulum ridge.
if its pants it'll be a winery walk out !
jas
In reply to Shamus: a couple of pics from last weekend, was great
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136617
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136706
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136617
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136706
In reply to bullwinkle: No, they are not, there was a layer of powder, which the sun was busy stripping yesterday, no rime and only neve on the ledges above half height. We had walked in to do C Ordinary but it would have been a damp rock climb with some powder on the rock, not a winter climb.
In reply to Ian Black: The amount of new snow in the Lakes varies considerably across the district, not all gullies were unsafe yesterday
In reply to MattG:
just got back from the lonely gully behind Scales Tarn, going about II at the moment with some ice steps (steepish but avoidable)
quite fun but be careful as you approach the headrocks as the snow is less stable and there is a cornice you can avoid
just got back from the lonely gully behind Scales Tarn, going about II at the moment with some ice steps (steepish but avoidable)
quite fun but be careful as you approach the headrocks as the snow is less stable and there is a cornice you can avoid
In reply to Shamus:
Was on Brown Cove Crags today.
All sorts of folks doing different things..
Gullies and ridges.
All seemed fine.
Some fresh snow but not enough to worry about.
Was on Brown Cove Crags today.
All sorts of folks doing different things..
Gullies and ridges.
All seemed fine.
Some fresh snow but not enough to worry about.
In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet: Second that.
In reply to wercat:
Of course you're perfectly safe from cornice collapse and other avalanches when farther down the gully. er...
> be careful as you approach the headrocks as the snow is less stable and there is a cornice
Of course you're perfectly safe from cornice collapse and other avalanches when farther down the gully. er...
In reply to Toreador:
I'd rate that cornice as being such that the main threat is of falling off it rather than a huge mass of snow burying you - it's a long way down.........
I'd rate that cornice as being such that the main threat is of falling off it rather than a huge mass of snow burying you - it's a long way down.........
In reply to wercat: Strange, i would rather take my chances climbing over it than it piling down a gully and hitting me.
In reply to tragically1969:
it's assessing the relative risks of either occurrence. If you read the logbooks for this route you'll see that people have downclimbed and traversed in this area because of the snow conditions they found
it's assessing the relative risks of either occurrence. If you read the logbooks for this route you'll see that people have downclimbed and traversed in this area because of the snow conditions they found
In reply to Shamus:
We just got back from walking the helvellyn ridge, covered in snow and very wintery but also mostly powder snow, i dont think we saw anyone climbing all day. The gullies would just be a nightmare, watched some people on brown cove crags and they only moved about 3 metres in about 20 mins so i guess they were finding it hard going for grade 1! No need to even use crampons at any point on the ridge as its that soft, good for the skiiers on raise though!
We just got back from walking the helvellyn ridge, covered in snow and very wintery but also mostly powder snow, i dont think we saw anyone climbing all day. The gullies would just be a nightmare, watched some people on brown cove crags and they only moved about 3 metres in about 20 mins so i guess they were finding it hard going for grade 1! No need to even use crampons at any point on the ridge as its that soft, good for the skiiers on raise though!
In reply to jas wood:
Would be curious to hear if it had come in! Did it last year and the first pitch was absolutely awesome. The 1st belay is on the buttress on the R which should give you shelter from anything coming down S gully. No serious risk of anything coming down innaccessible from above.
Some of the other rare Lakeland icy delights have come in... I think that as a route it was better than innaccessible.
NMM
Would be curious to hear if it had come in! Did it last year and the first pitch was absolutely awesome. The 1st belay is on the buttress on the R which should give you shelter from anything coming down S gully. No serious risk of anything coming down innaccessible from above.
Some of the other rare Lakeland icy delights have come in... I think that as a route it was better than innaccessible.
NMM
In reply to Shamus:
Was on Browncove yesterday, Downclimbed central then up Right buttress crack which is good and icy with good neve. Down LH and then up Stepped ridge.
Top of gullies is abit iffy but there isn't that much fresh snow on brown cove, mebe a couple of inches. Sloughing triggered quite easily towards the top as there is alot of graupel in the snowpack. The snow on mon/tue mainly came on a W wind so I wouldn't touch anything on an E aspect above 700m. Red Tarn face must be waiting to go...
Great conditions above about 650m in the Lakes at the moment. Gable looked plastered but the recent snow didn't get any further N than Dalehead.
NMM
Was on Browncove yesterday, Downclimbed central then up Right buttress crack which is good and icy with good neve. Down LH and then up Stepped ridge.
Top of gullies is abit iffy but there isn't that much fresh snow on brown cove, mebe a couple of inches. Sloughing triggered quite easily towards the top as there is alot of graupel in the snowpack. The snow on mon/tue mainly came on a W wind so I wouldn't touch anything on an E aspect above 700m. Red Tarn face must be waiting to go...
Great conditions above about 650m in the Lakes at the moment. Gable looked plastered but the recent snow didn't get any further N than Dalehead.
NMM
In reply to jas wood:
I don't know Jas, but its on the hit list for next week.
Ian.
> (In reply to Ian Black) Do you know if inaccessable is threatened by gully slides ?
I don't know Jas, but its on the hit list for next week.
Ian.
In reply to MattG:
No doubt! I was thinking back to when we had all the powder a couple of months back and some were posting saying the lakes was in great condition. Its all down to your judgement call, experience, etc. We climbed every day last year in Cogne where the avalanche risk was very high, and we lived to fight another day. Luck, good judgement, good route choice?
> (In reply to Ian Black) The amount of new snow in the Lakes varies considerably across the district, not all gullies were unsafe yesterday
No doubt! I was thinking back to when we had all the powder a couple of months back and some were posting saying the lakes was in great condition. Its all down to your judgement call, experience, etc. We climbed every day last year in Cogne where the avalanche risk was very high, and we lived to fight another day. Luck, good judgement, good route choice?
In reply to Shamus: was in brown cove two days ago =- great gully climbing and skiing back towards thirlmere direction down the shallow gullies. was supposed to go to scotland this week but stayed in lakes instead - skiing off great dodd yesterday and climbed on chaPEL CRAGS IN BUTTERMER TODAY.
In reply to Ian Black:
been up there today flower and its complete (have pics) but the sun has been on it and is not attached to the wall :O( started the route but soon became aware it wasn't attached to anything !
if anyone uses the sledgehammer technique they will bring it down for good me thinks up in gully proper looked very bare also due to sun being on it but it bodes well for future maybe :O)
seen footsteps from top of crag that suggested it was done recently mind !
black crag icefall isn't complete but looks to be forming nice day on the hills today.
been up there today flower and its complete (have pics) but the sun has been on it and is not attached to the wall :O( started the route but soon became aware it wasn't attached to anything !
if anyone uses the sledgehammer technique they will bring it down for good me thinks up in gully proper looked very bare also due to sun being on it but it bodes well for future maybe :O)
seen footsteps from top of crag that suggested it was done recently mind !
black crag icefall isn't complete but looks to be forming nice day on the hills today.
In reply to Ian Black:
There was far less snow on Blencathra than I expected. It's worth remembering that 2 or three winters ago it was only Helvellyn that got a reasonable dump when all the fells you could see to the N S E and West had almost nothing
It's happened more than once in recent years and I think you almost see the course a cold wind took that brought the very localised precipitation to isolated spots
There was far less snow on Blencathra than I expected. It's worth remembering that 2 or three winters ago it was only Helvellyn that got a reasonable dump when all the fells you could see to the N S E and West had almost nothing
It's happened more than once in recent years and I think you almost see the course a cold wind took that brought the very localised precipitation to isolated spots
In reply to Shamus: Any views on where to go this Sunday ideally for grade 5 or 6 stuff without an excessive walk in?
I'm thinking Gable crag, maybe Great End for some of the more obscure routes or something on Viking Buttress.
I'm thinking Gable crag, maybe Great End for some of the more obscure routes or something on Viking Buttress.
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Gable looked good and snowed up from Brown cove on thur...
There is good ice build up in unusual places if you are abit more adventurous.
NMM
Gable looked good and snowed up from Brown cove on thur...
There is good ice build up in unusual places if you are abit more adventurous.
NMM
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: Is Scafell in good nick?
In reply to jas wood: what was South Gully on Dove like?
In reply to jas wood: Cheers for that. I'm off for 2 weeks from monday,so will have a recce over that way. We climbed Percy's passage last sunday, it was in great nick. The guide says to take rightward ramps I think. We took a direct route climbing all the short ice falls, and ice and turf was in great nick. Really short walk in as well.
In reply to Mike Hall: south gully was poor condition but amongst good scenery. bits of ice about on it but snow was spooky !
did it as a back up route when inaccesable gully wasn't accessable !!
did it as a back up route when inaccesable gully wasn't accessable !!
In reply to Ian Black: i think inaccesable needs a good cold stormy windy few days and it will be filled in and good to go i think.
You folks just need to get out early & get on routes!
Did Inaccessible Gully today & soloed down South Gully afterwards. Both were in excellent nick in my opinion. I've posted some photos.
Have fun.
DSM.
Did Inaccessible Gully today & soloed down South Gully afterwards. Both were in excellent nick in my opinion. I've posted some photos.
Have fun.
DSM.
In reply to Martin Haworth:
It was last monday, great turf, neve and ice. Sounds like it could be abit buried now though...
NMM
It was last monday, great turf, neve and ice. Sounds like it could be abit buried now though...
NMM
In reply to DSM: we didn't get up there till later on friday and it was coming off in chunks :O( glad you got it done and it would appear that the upper gully was okay also ? didn't look like anything in it from below.
south gully had nothing on the wee step section just after the start of inaccesable and was mushy rubbish.
south gully had nothing on the wee step section just after the start of inaccesable and was mushy rubbish.
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Saturday, yesterday.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=137316
Saturday, yesterday.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=137316
In reply to jas wood:
Inaccessible Gully was AOK throughout - full of snow/ice excepting the main chockstone which was bare. South Gully fully iced. Just need to get there early I think - the sun hits IG first thing in the morning (see my photos).
DSM
Inaccessible Gully was AOK throughout - full of snow/ice excepting the main chockstone which was bare. South Gully fully iced. Just need to get there early I think - the sun hits IG first thing in the morning (see my photos).
DSM
In reply to DSM: Aye we didn't arrive till 11 am ish (working nightshift in middlesbrough then drove through) as i thought it would be worth a look !
looked like an excellent route mind and i'll be back some time soon EARLY doors :O) must have been the chockstone we could see that looked bare. what a difference a bit of sun on the job can make !
looked like an excellent route mind and i'll be back some time soon EARLY doors :O) must have been the chockstone we could see that looked bare. what a difference a bit of sun on the job can make !
In reply to Shamus: Did IG today, thought it was pretty thin, hollow and brittle on the first pitch. Pulling round the chockstone was very hard as there was no ice above it. That aside it was a brilliant route and in doable nick.
In reply to Shamus:
Pics from Blea Water Gill yesterday:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fangfoss-live/
Cheers
SK
Pics from Blea Water Gill yesterday:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/fangfoss-live/
Cheers
SK
In reply to Simon K: Up at scafell Sunday 21st lots of unconsolodated snow all very pretty but no good for climbing. Haveing sid that still go a few routes in on Pikes Crags and there were a few teams doing harder stuff on Scafell.
In reply to Shamus:
Were you on a different Scafell??? Climbed Moss Gill on Sunday - the snow was steadily falling but no wind so as long as you didnt mind the off spindrift avalanche pouring on you, climbing conditions were generally excellent. Very few teams out - another party ahead of us and one other on Botterils Slab.
Were you on a different Scafell??? Climbed Moss Gill on Sunday - the snow was steadily falling but no wind so as long as you didnt mind the off spindrift avalanche pouring on you, climbing conditions were generally excellent. Very few teams out - another party ahead of us and one other on Botterils Slab.
In reply to Shamus: One missing, three rescued after avalanche
A walker is missing in the Lake District after their party was swept away by an avalanche at Patterdale.
Patterdale Mountain Rescue Team is continuing to search in fading light for the walker after the incident on a ridge at St Sunday Crag at 2pm.
Three people have already been rescued from the mountain by a combination of an RAF Sea King helicopter from RAF Boulmer, two North West Air Ambulance teams and 18 members of the mountain rescue team.
One casualty has already been flown to Carlisle's Cumberland Infirmary with head and leg injuries.
Another member of the party is still on the mountain awaiting transportation to the hospital with a suspected collapsed lung.
A further member of the party is with mountain rescue members.
Inspector Lee Skelton, from Cumbria police, is working at the scene.
He said: "It's a very confusing picture at the moent. Our priority is to search for the remaining casualty."
http://www.newsandstar.co.uk/news/one-missing-three-rescued-after-avalanche...
A walker is missing in the Lake District after their party was swept away by an avalanche at Patterdale.
Patterdale Mountain Rescue Team is continuing to search in fading light for the walker after the incident on a ridge at St Sunday Crag at 2pm.
Three people have already been rescued from the mountain by a combination of an RAF Sea King helicopter from RAF Boulmer, two North West Air Ambulance teams and 18 members of the mountain rescue team.
One casualty has already been flown to Carlisle's Cumberland Infirmary with head and leg injuries.
Another member of the party is still on the mountain awaiting transportation to the hospital with a suspected collapsed lung.
A further member of the party is with mountain rescue members.
Inspector Lee Skelton, from Cumbria police, is working at the scene.
He said: "It's a very confusing picture at the moent. Our priority is to search for the remaining casualty."
http://www.newsandstar.co.uk/news/one-missing-three-rescued-after-avalanche...
In reply to Keith Birch: walked up to Angle tarn from Seawaite today lots of deep powder at the base of Great End also lots of snow being moved by the fairly strong wind.
Conditions looked okay at Angle Tarn some parts of the crag are now under heavy loose powder.
More snow forecast this week so avalanche conditions can only get worse I would imagine if this was in Scotland some areas would be a cat 4 .
I was suprised by the amount of snow must be 8-10 inches of fresh powder with some drifts 2 or 3 times that depth.
Take care if you are out tommorrow
Conditions looked okay at Angle Tarn some parts of the crag are now under heavy loose powder.
More snow forecast this week so avalanche conditions can only get worse I would imagine if this was in Scotland some areas would be a cat 4 .
I was suprised by the amount of snow must be 8-10 inches of fresh powder with some drifts 2 or 3 times that depth.
Take care if you are out tommorrow
In reply to : Did Dove crag gully in Grasmoor today. Fantastic route, in good nick. Never seen a soul all day.
In reply to Keith Birch: heard they were walking last one off so he OK, they were doing Pinnacle Ridge, must have been in gully to side to get avalanched rather than on ridge itself
In reply to Mike Hall: Avalanched off the snow slope above the top of the climb.
In reply to neil0968:
Climbed Central Gully Direct, Gt. End today and agree with what Neil has said. High avalnche risk in certain areas. Most of the new loose snow had already avalanched in the gully, but still be very aware of what you are climbing on.
Ice pitch on the direct in really good condition.
Climbed Central Gully Direct, Gt. End today and agree with what Neil has said. High avalnche risk in certain areas. Most of the new loose snow had already avalanched in the gully, but still be very aware of what you are climbing on.
Ice pitch on the direct in really good condition.
Well done Ian, did you do both main pitches? Any photos?
DSM
DSM
In reply to Shamus:
Out on Skiddaw this afternoon via southerndale, there is loads of very light spindrift blowing about and saw some quite impressive spindrift slides down the crags into the top of southerndale. It was blowing a real easterly gale on the top and stripping lots of snow from the east facing slopes. Would have been blown off the top without crampons on. The path up from Carlside was banked out with lots of light powder on hard neve. It has been freezing for weeks so the existing snow pack base is mostly icy neve. There is significant fresh snow forecast tonight so the gullies and lee slopes are going to be loaded with windblown powder and fresh snow on a hard base with little cohesion. I live here and after what I saw today I think the avalanche risk tomorrow will be as high as I have known it for many years. Significant avalanches do happen in the Lakes and I personally was lucky to survive a big wind-slab one out of catsycam gully some years ago. Take care!
Out on Skiddaw this afternoon via southerndale, there is loads of very light spindrift blowing about and saw some quite impressive spindrift slides down the crags into the top of southerndale. It was blowing a real easterly gale on the top and stripping lots of snow from the east facing slopes. Would have been blown off the top without crampons on. The path up from Carlside was banked out with lots of light powder on hard neve. It has been freezing for weeks so the existing snow pack base is mostly icy neve. There is significant fresh snow forecast tonight so the gullies and lee slopes are going to be loaded with windblown powder and fresh snow on a hard base with little cohesion. I live here and after what I saw today I think the avalanche risk tomorrow will be as high as I have known it for many years. Significant avalanches do happen in the Lakes and I personally was lucky to survive a big wind-slab one out of catsycam gully some years ago. Take care!
In reply to DSM:
Aye, just posted them on here. Looks like its going to be in for a wee while yet.
Ian.
> Well done Ian, did you do both main pitches? Any photos?
>
> DSM
>
> DSM
Aye, just posted them on here. Looks like its going to be in for a wee while yet.
Ian.
In reply to Shamus: Forecast not good for tonight its snowing quite hard here in Braithwaite .
In reply to Ian Black:
Yeah, two of the best grade V ice pitches in the Lakes? That second pitch is certainly fat enough to hand in for a while!
NMM
Yeah, two of the best grade V ice pitches in the Lakes? That second pitch is certainly fat enough to hand in for a while!
NMM
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: Aye, definitely one I'd do again. If I climbed something like that in the Alps I wouldn't be disappointed. Hopefully get a good freeze on next week, and everything should be good to go again.
Ian.
Ian.
In reply to Shamus: Lots of wet snow on top of a dry layer of powder and that is laying on top of a very old hard layer .Forecast not looking good for climbing over the weekend plenty more snow to come higher up Thurs/Fri freezing level lowering over the weekend with lots more snow.
In reply to neil0968:
Sounds like a very careful venue choice is required! Perhaps staying in my bed!
NMM
Sounds like a very careful venue choice is required! Perhaps staying in my bed!
NMM
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: Was out on Gt End Tuesday and chose the rocky buttressy bits left of South East Gully. Time pressure persuaded us to edge into the gully where the volume of spindrift was unpleasantly impressive. The full point five experience.
Higher up despite sticking to the rocky bits I still managed to release a fairly wide but thankfully shallow slab. Even 4 inches of slab gives a very sharp reminder of reasons not to cock up in winter.
Interestingly both of us had not responded to the other's suggestion to head down out of the manky conditions at different times. Me thinking I could pull a quick, safeish line up the edge of the buttresy bits and my mate possibly just not registering my concerns. Hopefully I've had the chance to learn a little bit more.
Higher up despite sticking to the rocky bits I still managed to release a fairly wide but thankfully shallow slab. Even 4 inches of slab gives a very sharp reminder of reasons not to cock up in winter.
Interestingly both of us had not responded to the other's suggestion to head down out of the manky conditions at different times. Me thinking I could pull a quick, safeish line up the edge of the buttresy bits and my mate possibly just not registering my concerns. Hopefully I've had the chance to learn a little bit more.
In reply to cosmicray:
Thanks for the post.
Has anycody been on the hill today? It was 1.6 C on top of Helvellyn so there will have been alot of slides today.
Sounded like on wednesday there was fresh wet snow ontop of powder ontop of hard neve. This sounds like a horrific snowpack. What I am trying to work out is at what height the snowpack has become fully saturated and best chance of freezing on fri night... Although it looks like there could be a load more fresh snow tommorrow!
NMM
Thanks for the post.
Has anycody been on the hill today? It was 1.6 C on top of Helvellyn so there will have been alot of slides today.
Sounded like on wednesday there was fresh wet snow ontop of powder ontop of hard neve. This sounds like a horrific snowpack. What I am trying to work out is at what height the snowpack has become fully saturated and best chance of freezing on fri night... Although it looks like there could be a load more fresh snow tommorrow!
NMM
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: snow was very wet on dollywagon and fairfield today, rained the whole time i was up there .Avalanche debris across the path next to raise beck
In reply to Anonymous: According to the guide. In 1970, but its never in condition...
In reply to Shamus:
Anyone know what the conditions are like around the coniston area - dow crag / low water? Any ice in the quarries?
Anyone know what the conditions are like around the coniston area - dow crag / low water? Any ice in the quarries?
In reply to mol: Since it was above freezing on top of Helvellyn yesterday (see http://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/weatherline ) and Coniston Fells are generally much less snowy than Helvellyn and it's been raining in the Lakes for several hours now I'd say you're being very optimistic!
In reply to Shamus: does anybody know if blea water crag is in at the mo?
In reply to macinboots:
Thanks for the post, especially about the debris across the path. That convex slope on the S side of Dollywagon is worrying! Think we will head for NW Lakes in the hope that there has been less snow.
NMM
Thanks for the post, especially about the debris across the path. That convex slope on the S side of Dollywagon is worrying! Think we will head for NW Lakes in the hope that there has been less snow.
NMM
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: the avalanche had come off seat sandal side(north facing) not dollywagon side, which is quite clear of snow at the mo. Lot of rain today and wet snow falling on shap summit tonight
In reply to macinboots:
Thanks for that. I don't think I have ever deliberated so much about where to climb in the Lakes!
NMM
Thanks for that. I don't think I have ever deliberated so much about where to climb in the Lakes!
NMM
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
The valley rain turned to snow about 100m below Brown Cove Crags today, according to someone who was up there all day.
(Circa 600-650m contour)
The valley rain turned to snow about 100m below Brown Cove Crags today, according to someone who was up there all day.
(Circa 600-650m contour)
Did Dove Crag Gully (Grassmoor) this morning. Conditions pretty much perfect - blue sky, excellent ice all the way, fresh powder high up.
DSM
DSM
In reply to DSM: Great End conditions were pants... Deep powder, poor ice and very poor belays... Where'd the neve gone? It was too warm. One route done - then beer o'clock.
However, beautiful day, clear blue sky and hardly any wind.
Andy
However, beautiful day, clear blue sky and hardly any wind.
Andy
In reply to Exile:
Yes, a team arrived 15 mins after us - just shows that early starts pay off! I'll post some photos later.
DSM
Yes, a team arrived 15 mins after us - just shows that early starts pay off! I'll post some photos later.
DSM
In reply to DSM:
Great stuff, fantastic route. I never got out today. I became a Grandad last night, so was in hospital visiting semi hungover.
Ian.
> Did Dove Crag Gully (Grassmoor) this morning. Conditions pretty much perfect - blue sky, excellent ice all the way, fresh powder high up.
>
> DSM
>
> DSM
Great stuff, fantastic route. I never got out today. I became a Grandad last night, so was in hospital visiting semi hungover.
Ian.
In reply to Shamus: did blea water yesterday, ice falls still in but lots of snow higher up... take care
In reply to DSM:
Thanks. Wonder what the smallest size harness is
> (In reply to Ian Black)
> Congratulations!
>
> DSM
> Congratulations!
>
> DSM
Thanks. Wonder what the smallest size harness is
In reply to Big Andy:
The recent weather of high snowfall, no thaw, more snowfall, and further no thaw, followed by a brief thaw should have made it obvious that the gullies would be crap, not to mention potentially dangerous. Good grief.
The recent weather of high snowfall, no thaw, more snowfall, and further no thaw, followed by a brief thaw should have made it obvious that the gullies would be crap, not to mention potentially dangerous. Good grief.
In reply to Big Andy: I was out on in that area on Monday there was at least 8 to 10 inches of fresh snow fell on Sunday plus there was another big fall Wednesday and again on Friday.So yes gullies would be a bad choice I suspect all the ice is buried .Felltop report from yesterday and today gives a warning of avoiding gullies.Felltop report from today has temp of minus 3 so find it hard to believe it was to warm.
In reply to Shamus:
Was up on Gable yesterday, plenty of teams out on Engineer's slabs, central gully and pinnacle ridge.
We did Sledgate ridge, although we avoided the avoided the chimney as it looked desperate (looked harder than steep gill). Icy cracks and good turf buried under lots of powder. Crag was quite 'snowed up' as it hadn't fallen on much wind so finding gear was tricky in parts.
Very interesting snowpack, probably the worst I have seen in the Lakes.
NMM
Was up on Gable yesterday, plenty of teams out on Engineer's slabs, central gully and pinnacle ridge.
We did Sledgate ridge, although we avoided the avoided the chimney as it looked desperate (looked harder than steep gill). Icy cracks and good turf buried under lots of powder. Crag was quite 'snowed up' as it hadn't fallen on much wind so finding gear was tricky in parts.
Very interesting snowpack, probably the worst I have seen in the Lakes.
NMM
In reply to Big Andy:
Yet according to the logbooks, people climbed it anyway. Hopefully they realise how lucky they were and will think a bit more about what they climb next time. Either that or they'll think that since they're still alive, it was a sensible route choice.
> The snow pit we dug below Window Gully had "don't climb here today" written through it
Yet according to the logbooks, people climbed it anyway. Hopefully they realise how lucky they were and will think a bit more about what they climb next time. Either that or they'll think that since they're still alive, it was a sensible route choice.
In reply to Toreador:
Great End had a "don't climb here today" written all over it that I could see from the top of Grey Knotts!
Let's hope there isn't much more fresh snow this week.
NMM
Great End had a "don't climb here today" written all over it that I could see from the top of Grey Knotts!
Let's hope there isn't much more fresh snow this week.
NMM
In reply to Shamus:
Did the 2* Little Gulley Left Branch on Pavey Ark on Saturday but some of the ice was coming away in chunks so all a bit scarey. Definitely needs more freeze and more cover on these relatively lower crags.
Did the 2* Little Gulley Left Branch on Pavey Ark on Saturday but some of the ice was coming away in chunks so all a bit scarey. Definitely needs more freeze and more cover on these relatively lower crags.
Moss Gill was in good but quite hard condition on Sunday. Combination of iced up cracks with covering of less helpful soft snow.
In reply to Shamus: was out on brown cove crags on sat and sunday, decent conditions for climbing, mainly mixed though.
as we left around 5pm on sunday there was snow falling in the carpark on the thirlmere side, very very wet snow though!
as we left around 5pm on sunday there was snow falling in the carpark on the thirlmere side, very very wet snow though!
In reply to Shamus:
At what height is the snow level?
At what height is the snow level?
In reply to JWB: 450m see http://www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/weatherline
In reply to DSM: Dove Crag Gully absolutely stunning in today's sunny weather. Not as fat as it has been back in the 80's and the icicle screen hasn't formed fully yet. Take a peek at the vid. youtube.com/watch?v=nsrC7gYrE1I&
Ray
Ray
In reply to cosmicray:
> (In reply to DSM) Dove Crag Gully absolutely stunning in today's sunny weather. Not as fat as it has been back in the 80's and the icicle screen hasn't formed fully yet. Take a peek at the vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsrC7gYrE1I
Great video
> Ray
Great video
In reply to Shamus: Nice video Ray I'm very jealous - winter climbing days like that in the Lakes are a rare treasure
P
P
In reply to icnoble: great video enjoyed it thanks!
In reply to Shamus: I climbed Dove Crag Gully last night, no less than 5 parties had been up it during the day so it was well stepped out, (didn't swing an axe all night, just hooked on holes). It will require delicate treatment if its gonna survive to the weekend with this much traffic.
John
John
In reply to John Kettle:
We had been planning to do it at the weekend, but with all the publicity it's had on UKC I'm not expecting there to be much left by then
We had been planning to do it at the weekend, but with all the publicity it's had on UKC I'm not expecting there to be much left by then
In reply to Toreador:
When will you all learn?
Find a route in condition, tell your pals, not the whole world. That way your pals might have a good day out, just like you have.
I am a little bitter, I had planned to climb DCG this weekend but went elsewhere once I discovered someone had been on here spouting off about it.
When will you all learn?
Find a route in condition, tell your pals, not the whole world. That way your pals might have a good day out, just like you have.
I am a little bitter, I had planned to climb DCG this weekend but went elsewhere once I discovered someone had been on here spouting off about it.
In reply to 3leggeddog:
Hear hear!
Hear hear!
In reply to 3leggeddog: I agree
In reply to Toreador: Not much point in having a forum if you don't share info? But I do see your point in posting on individual routes. General to the area seems fine and helpful for those who have travel a ways to get soemwhere and don't want to have a wasted journey. But what level do you go down to area/glen/crag?? Whatever you do it will have the effect of focusing attention to a particular place and folk will always look for the classic/trade routes there anyway. Difficult one!
In reply to lpretro1:
I'll generally keep quiet about crags/areas which have a limited number of routes. If someone says that Gable Crag is in good condition, there are loads of routes there that people can do. If they mention Dove Crag, there are only a handful (possibly only 1 or 2 at the moment).
It's especially bad at the moment when so much is threatened by avalanches and/or suffering from crappy snow - any route flagged is being in good nick will soon be swarming (and hence no longer in good nick).
I'll generally keep quiet about crags/areas which have a limited number of routes. If someone says that Gable Crag is in good condition, there are loads of routes there that people can do. If they mention Dove Crag, there are only a handful (possibly only 1 or 2 at the moment).
It's especially bad at the moment when so much is threatened by avalanches and/or suffering from crappy snow - any route flagged is being in good nick will soon be swarming (and hence no longer in good nick).
In reply to Toreador: Yep, with you on that one - everyone flocks to the 'do-able' routes especially when conditions are tricky as they are now. Gone are the days when you went out 'for a look', made your own assessments, some you won, some you lost and might have had to back off or not even start and go for a walk. Now folk very much want a 'guaranteed' climb. I'm happy to change plans and go for a walk instead if it is looking dangerous but in a way I don't blame them either - time-off is precious and fuel/accomodation costs an arm and a leg too so you wnat to make it worthwhile.
In reply to 3leggeddog:
It's been in nick for weeks - I did it two weeks ago (and didn't post the news anywhere) - so maybe you just need to be quicker off the mark rather than having a go at people who've done it and told others. Or maybe you haven't got any mates to give you the tip off...sorry couldn't resist that one
Davie
It's been in nick for weeks - I did it two weeks ago (and didn't post the news anywhere) - so maybe you just need to be quicker off the mark rather than having a go at people who've done it and told others. Or maybe you haven't got any mates to give you the tip off...sorry couldn't resist that one
Davie
In reply to DR:
I had worked that out, the route is almost in my back garden, just had bigger fish to fry. The first gap in my busy schedule of climbing and someone blows the whistle, sod's law
I had worked that out, the route is almost in my back garden, just had bigger fish to fry. The first gap in my busy schedule of climbing and someone blows the whistle, sod's law
In reply to DR:
Not really having a go, just pointing out the implications of reporting on here. Much like yourself, I will tell those people who matter to me rather than the whole world about conditions that I find.
Not really having a go, just pointing out the implications of reporting on here. Much like yourself, I will tell those people who matter to me rather than the whole world about conditions that I find.
In reply to 3leggeddog:
It's been in nick for 5 weeks now. If you had bigger fish to fry that's your problem - are you expecting everyone else to wait until you've done it?
We went to do it on the off chance weeks ago based on the usual local knowledge and guesswork and it was in.
I'm absolutely delighted that loads of people have had the chance since then to do such an excellent and rarely in-condition route - and not just a few (fellow) curmudgeonly locals.
It's been in nick for 5 weeks now. If you had bigger fish to fry that's your problem - are you expecting everyone else to wait until you've done it?
We went to do it on the off chance weeks ago based on the usual local knowledge and guesswork and it was in.
I'm absolutely delighted that loads of people have had the chance since then to do such an excellent and rarely in-condition route - and not just a few (fellow) curmudgeonly locals.
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:
You are correct and I have no regrets in my prioritising
- are you expecting everyone else to wait until you've done it?
Not at all, just made a sound decision on Sat night not to climb there as I knew it would be too busy for my liking. DCG was my orig plan but still had a good day
Me too, I'm also glad I wasn't waiting behind them or turning away having walked up to find the crag mobbed
> (In reply to 3leggeddog)
>
> It's been in nick for 5 weeks now. If you had bigger fish to fry that's your problem
>
> It's been in nick for 5 weeks now. If you had bigger fish to fry that's your problem
You are correct and I have no regrets in my prioritising
- are you expecting everyone else to wait until you've done it?
Not at all, just made a sound decision on Sat night not to climb there as I knew it would be too busy for my liking. DCG was my orig plan but still had a good day
>
> We went to do it on the off chance weeks ago based on the usual local knowledge and guesswork and it was in.
>
> I'm absolutely delighted that loads of people have had the chance since then to do such an excellent and rarely in-condition route - and not just a few (fellow) curmudgeonly locals.
> We went to do it on the off chance weeks ago based on the usual local knowledge and guesswork and it was in.
>
> I'm absolutely delighted that loads of people have had the chance since then to do such an excellent and rarely in-condition route - and not just a few (fellow) curmudgeonly locals.
Me too, I'm also glad I wasn't waiting behind them or turning away having walked up to find the crag mobbed
In reply to Shamus: Not really in Reply, anyone been around the flat crag/ climbers traverse on Bowfell last day or so ?, i fancy aroute up there this weekend but topographically the Great Slab looks like a big wet slide just waiting to happen...(unless its already gone....)
Ta
Ta
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:
I'm curmudgeonly, but not a local - it's a long way to travel to find a big queue for some hacked up ice
And there's a difference between 'climbable nick' and 'good nick', judging by your photos you found the former rather than the latter
I'm curmudgeonly, but not a local - it's a long way to travel to find a big queue for some hacked up ice
And there's a difference between 'climbable nick' and 'good nick', judging by your photos you found the former rather than the latter
In reply to Toreador:
Well you have to weigh up whether that's worse than it being in nick for 5 weeks and you never hearing about it.
Or alternatively travelling a long way to find nothing at all - which was the much more likely scenario pre-internet.
It may (according to one person) be hacked up now, but it hasn't been for the last few weeks - and during all this time it's been open information in the UKC logbooks.
I only posted one photo, and I would say it was in perfect nick that day.
> (In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC)
> I'm curmudgeonly, but not a local - it's a long way to travel to find a big queue for some hacked up ice
> I'm curmudgeonly, but not a local - it's a long way to travel to find a big queue for some hacked up ice
Well you have to weigh up whether that's worse than it being in nick for 5 weeks and you never hearing about it.
Or alternatively travelling a long way to find nothing at all - which was the much more likely scenario pre-internet.
It may (according to one person) be hacked up now, but it hasn't been for the last few weeks - and during all this time it's been open information in the UKC logbooks.
>
> And there's a difference between 'climbable nick' and 'good nick', judging by your photos you found the former rather than the latter
> And there's a difference between 'climbable nick' and 'good nick', judging by your photos you found the former rather than the latter
I only posted one photo, and I would say it was in perfect nick that day.
In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:
I'm just miffed because every time I concoct a plan to visit somewhere I think might be in condition, someone seems to scupper it by promoting the fact loudly just before I go!
I've got a plan B though...
I'm just miffed because every time I concoct a plan to visit somewhere I think might be in condition, someone seems to scupper it by promoting the fact loudly just before I go!
I've got a plan B though...
In reply to Shamus:
Looks like this thread has got cross-threaded!
Anybody out there able to recommend in a altruistic manner, any good alternatives to the usual-"suspect" gullys (at grade II/III) on the popular crags still in condition
Great End central gully has a variation up the right hand wall arete at about the same grade. Any good? Is it clear of any loaded snow fields?
Any local knowledge and experience welcome. Thanks.
Looks like this thread has got cross-threaded!
Anybody out there able to recommend in a altruistic manner, any good alternatives to the usual-"suspect" gullys (at grade II/III) on the popular crags still in condition
Great End central gully has a variation up the right hand wall arete at about the same grade. Any good? Is it clear of any loaded snow fields?
Any local knowledge and experience welcome. Thanks.
In reply to sbc_10:
All of great end looked pretty plastered from Gable last weekend and I would imagine the area to the R of central gully would be pretty loaded. It's at a fairly bad angle for avalanches to be honest...
NMM
All of great end looked pretty plastered from Gable last weekend and I would imagine the area to the R of central gully would be pretty loaded. It's at a fairly bad angle for avalanches to be honest...
NMM
In reply to 3leggeddog:
I see your point and the point above about what scale do you post about conditions? If you know the Lakes well enough then 'Good conditions with neve and a good ice build up' would tell you were to look for the best routes. Lets face it, climbing behind lots of people on an ice route is not only unpleasant it is unsafe.
I did this route about 4 weeks ago based on a tip off from a mate, I had a fairly strong suspision that it was in due to having climbed in the Lakes frequently this winter.
I think the real problem here is guidebook ownership. If people don't have a guidebook then they will follow the internet crowd. That's why I don't tend to climb in N Wales, because there isn't a decent guidebook! Let's scrap this online route database none sense and get a decent guidebook like the one to the Lakes.
Incidentally, I did Little Stanger Gill IV 4 *** in Borrowdale a couple of weeks back. Great route and we had it to ourselves! Thanks to the honeypotters going where the blogs told them.
NMM
I see your point and the point above about what scale do you post about conditions? If you know the Lakes well enough then 'Good conditions with neve and a good ice build up' would tell you were to look for the best routes. Lets face it, climbing behind lots of people on an ice route is not only unpleasant it is unsafe.
I did this route about 4 weeks ago based on a tip off from a mate, I had a fairly strong suspision that it was in due to having climbed in the Lakes frequently this winter.
I think the real problem here is guidebook ownership. If people don't have a guidebook then they will follow the internet crowd. That's why I don't tend to climb in N Wales, because there isn't a decent guidebook! Let's scrap this online route database none sense and get a decent guidebook like the one to the Lakes.
Incidentally, I did Little Stanger Gill IV 4 *** in Borrowdale a couple of weeks back. Great route and we had it to ourselves! Thanks to the honeypotters going where the blogs told them.
NMM
In reply to Shamus: interesting reading, me an a climbing pal did brown cove craggs central gully about 2 weeks ago it was full of fresh snow on top of ice and as my first proper winter climb was fantastic. we are keen to have a crack at a grade 2 (left butress or left branch ?)on this craggs as we know where it is and are new to winter climbing so dont want to make any mistakes . we are going on saturday and having kept in touch with weatherline was wondering if anyone can give some advice as to whether its in or not ?
In reply to chris_crompton: it isn't a case of its in or not its a case of the avalanche potential of any given route at the minute. ridges and buttresses are genarally better chioces in deep new snow conditions and don't go high if you don't have to applies also.
However if you no nothing about avalanche potential i'd give great end a miss marra.
try to find out any lower climbs (USUALLY less snow) or an area with less snow cover.and routes that are in condition which have been scoured by the wind had a thaw.
However if you no nothing about avalanche potential i'd give great end a miss marra.
try to find out any lower climbs (USUALLY less snow) or an area with less snow cover.and routes that are in condition which have been scoured by the wind had a thaw.
In reply to Shamus:
A VERY experienced mountaineer was almost avalanched out of window gully yesterday. I will save him the red face though.
A VERY experienced mountaineer was almost avalanched out of window gully yesterday. I will save him the red face though.
In reply to Shamus: If anyone wants a number of routes at grades 2-5 go to Rampsgill Head Crag. Went yesterday and had the whole crag to ourselves. Good climbing, nice views. Can't ask for much more. We only saw one skier all day. Thought I'd share it with you all...
In reply to loz01: We did Central Ridge which is essentially a buttress route and the frozen turf was more than adequate. From below it looked a pushover but it was quite the opposite. Grading spot on and the whole crag was covered. All the buttresses were covered in the white stuff.
In reply to peter bardsley:
Thanks Peter, good to get a response that opens up possibilities.
Did you you only do the buttress route or did you attempt the gullys?
I am perusing the guidebook looking for a good II/III this w/e without the obvious snow-pack danger.
Cheers. SBC
Thanks Peter, good to get a response that opens up possibilities.
Did you you only do the buttress route or did you attempt the gullys?
I am perusing the guidebook looking for a good II/III this w/e without the obvious snow-pack danger.
Cheers. SBC
In reply to Shamus: Dove crag gully is actually still good to climb and probably will stay that way has its all hooks at present, the traffic is'nt making that much difference.
Some impressive blocks of windslab debris below scafell crag. Ice routes on there still good, bots slab, m'gyhll, cascade etc.
Some impressive blocks of windslab debris below scafell crag. Ice routes on there still good, bots slab, m'gyhll, cascade etc.
In reply to paddy cave:
See my previous post Paddy, but i had it down as a grade easier than a fortnight ago.
Ian.
> (In reply to Shamus) Dove crag gully is actually still good to climb and probably will stay that way has its all hooks at present, the traffic is'nt making that much difference.
See my previous post Paddy, but i had it down as a grade easier than a fortnight ago.
Ian.
In reply to Ian Black: Is Chicken Run in reasonble condition then?
Hey folks what's all this stuff about not reporting what you've done on an internet forum called UK Climbing in a thread called Lakes Conditions!
I rather thought the whole point of the UKC forums was for people to share information so that others may gain from it? Keeping stuff to yourself when others clearly find the info useful is surely just selfish?
If folk really object to what is effectively local news reporting then I believe North Korea may be the place for them - no free internet forums there! Don't expect quiet crags though, it seems that ice climbing is quite popular...
http://rokdrop.com/2009/01/04/picture-day-ice-climbing-yeongdong/
DSM
I rather thought the whole point of the UKC forums was for people to share information so that others may gain from it? Keeping stuff to yourself when others clearly find the info useful is surely just selfish?
If folk really object to what is effectively local news reporting then I believe North Korea may be the place for them - no free internet forums there! Don't expect quiet crags though, it seems that ice climbing is quite popular...
http://rokdrop.com/2009/01/04/picture-day-ice-climbing-yeongdong/
DSM
In reply to paco nacho:
It looked do-able from where we were.
Ian.
> (In reply to Ian Black) Is Chicken Run in reasonble condition then?
It looked do-able from where we were.
Ian.
In reply to DSM:
great photo
great photo
In reply to sbc_10: The gullies all looked v climable. Plenty of snow. If we hadn't spent most of the day on Central Ridge, we'd have quite happily had a go at the gullies. Lots of choice. Go and have a look
In reply to Ian Black:
Awesome isn't it - turns out its actually in South Korea not North & the icefalls are manmade!
I googled "Winter Climbing Conditions in Pyongyang" & came up with 0 hits so I'm pretty convinced N Korea is the place for the grumblies on this thread, the censorship there is working just fine...
DSM
Awesome isn't it - turns out its actually in South Korea not North & the icefalls are manmade!
I googled "Winter Climbing Conditions in Pyongyang" & came up with 0 hits so I'm pretty convinced N Korea is the place for the grumblies on this thread, the censorship there is working just fine...
DSM
In reply to DSM:
Aye, I've never understood the mentality of some. We're all in the same game.
Ian.
> (In reply to Ian Black)
I'm pretty convinced N Korea is the place for the grumblies on this thread, the censorship there is working just fine...Aye, I've never understood the mentality of some. We're all in the same game.
Ian.
In reply to Ian Black:
So you wouldn't feel even slightly peeved if you'd planned on climbing a classic route, seldom in condition, and less than a week before your trip found it advertised widely that it was in nick, leading to dozens of extra ascents, steps up the ice, and big queues?
I assume you must live locally
So you wouldn't feel even slightly peeved if you'd planned on climbing a classic route, seldom in condition, and less than a week before your trip found it advertised widely that it was in nick, leading to dozens of extra ascents, steps up the ice, and big queues?
I assume you must live locally
In reply to Toreador:
Come on, we've all benefited and suffered from the internet, I suspect most of us have benefited more than suffered. I'm in the same possition as you, a little gutted, (particularly as I've stood under it once this winter when it wasn't in,) but I'll just go somewhere else and still have a great day. Such is life.
Come on, we've all benefited and suffered from the internet, I suspect most of us have benefited more than suffered. I'm in the same possition as you, a little gutted, (particularly as I've stood under it once this winter when it wasn't in,) but I'll just go somewhere else and still have a great day. Such is life.
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Looking a little more at that website I realise that there are other much better reasons to go to Korea... That's it then - my tip for the weekend ahead is some Cool ice climbing at Yeongdong followed by a Hot date in Seoul... You heard it here first.
DSM
> (In reply to DSM)
> Great pic! Is that part of the dating agencies service eh?
>
> NMM
> Great pic! Is that part of the dating agencies service eh?
>
> NMM
Looking a little more at that website I realise that there are other much better reasons to go to Korea... That's it then - my tip for the weekend ahead is some Cool ice climbing at Yeongdong followed by a Hot date in Seoul... You heard it here first.
DSM
In reply to Anonymous:
Were you the first team on it (DCG) on Thurs?
Red van in Car park?
Re Coniston.
Still plenty of snow above Low Water, so I expect Percy's Passage to be in. There may be stuff round at Hen Crag do-able too.
Not sure about Dow.
LW Beck not in I expect.
Were you the first team on it (DCG) on Thurs?
Red van in Car park?
Re Coniston.
Still plenty of snow above Low Water, so I expect Percy's Passage to be in. There may be stuff round at Hen Crag do-able too.
Not sure about Dow.
LW Beck not in I expect.
In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet: aye we were the first team on it on thursday and i have a battered van with morph on the side of it :O) very good route it was indeed !
thanks for the info on coniston
thanks for the info on coniston
In reply to jas wood:
I was one of the next team behind you.
A brilliant day out!
Shame Spiral Gully wasn't there though.
A lot of folks had been up to the top of P1 and retreated, as we did.
I was one of the next team behind you.
A brilliant day out!
Shame Spiral Gully wasn't there though.
A lot of folks had been up to the top of P1 and retreated, as we did.
In reply to Toreador:
Don't despair old chap. There's always 'plan B.'
> (In reply to Ian Black)
> So you wouldn't feel even slightly peeved if you'd planned on climbing a classic route, seldom in condition, and less than a week before your trip found it advertised widely that it was in nick, leading to dozens of extra ascents, steps up the ice, and big queues?
> I assume you must live locally
> So you wouldn't feel even slightly peeved if you'd planned on climbing a classic route, seldom in condition, and less than a week before your trip found it advertised widely that it was in nick, leading to dozens of extra ascents, steps up the ice, and big queues?
> I assume you must live locally
Don't despair old chap. There's always 'plan B.'
In reply to Shamus:
any reports of snow stability around scafell ?
any reports of snow stability around scafell ?
Hi jas - just got back from Scafell (1400 Sat). At 7AM the snow was very soft/mushy beneath the crag so had to revise plans - anyhow did Slingsby's Chimney and made it home for lunch having had a very fine time indeed. So there's routes to be done, just choose carefully.
DSM
DSM
In reply to DSM: thanks
In reply to jas wood:
climbed steep ghyll on friday, excellent conditions, good snow ice where needed, some of it buried under unconsolidated snow, but nothing to worry about. and for anyone who wants to know, you can split the main pitch easily enough, their is a good belay just above the narrow chimney on the right.
cheers
climbed steep ghyll on friday, excellent conditions, good snow ice where needed, some of it buried under unconsolidated snow, but nothing to worry about. and for anyone who wants to know, you can split the main pitch easily enough, their is a good belay just above the narrow chimney on the right.
cheers
In reply to Shamus:
On Rampsgill Head today. Did North gully and Central Ridge after dropping in from the usual descent. Deep soft snow but stable enough, no usable ice on routes so all done on turf and good old tooling and torquing. Couple of large loose pieces of rock had to be dealt with on the ridge, but altogether very enjoyable day and even got the chance to do some standing glissades on the way down. Back up to Striding edge tomorrow.
On Rampsgill Head today. Did North gully and Central Ridge after dropping in from the usual descent. Deep soft snow but stable enough, no usable ice on routes so all done on turf and good old tooling and torquing. Couple of large loose pieces of rock had to be dealt with on the ridge, but altogether very enjoyable day and even got the chance to do some standing glissades on the way down. Back up to Striding edge tomorrow.
In reply to Ann S:
Ann, no, don't go to Striding Edge the marra. Keep the inspiration of Rampsgill Head, and go somewhere else that no-one goes. I was on St Sunday Crag today (not the north side), and looked through the bins at Helvellyn (in the brief period when the cloud cleared the summit), and couldn't believe the huge number of people up there. It was like Blackpool beach in summer. Avoid the saddos at all costs.
Ann, no, don't go to Striding Edge the marra. Keep the inspiration of Rampsgill Head, and go somewhere else that no-one goes. I was on St Sunday Crag today (not the north side), and looked through the bins at Helvellyn (in the brief period when the cloud cleared the summit), and couldn't believe the huge number of people up there. It was like Blackpool beach in summer. Avoid the saddos at all costs.
In reply to Removed User:
I'll be teaching winter newbie how to develop sharp elbows to cut a way thru the people hordes.
I'll be teaching winter newbie how to develop sharp elbows to cut a way thru the people hordes.
In reply to Toreador:
Well, despite the internet reporting Exile and myself had Dove Crag Gully entirely to ourselves* this morning with two top class pitches of hooking up steep ice and tremendous alpine views off the top in glorious sunshine.
*This state of affairs lasted until 9:30am, when ten people and a dog turned up while we were de-gearing under the crag.
Well, despite the internet reporting Exile and myself had Dove Crag Gully entirely to ourselves* this morning with two top class pitches of hooking up steep ice and tremendous alpine views off the top in glorious sunshine.
*This state of affairs lasted until 9:30am, when ten people and a dog turned up while we were de-gearing under the crag.
I'm heading up to the Lake District for one day only on wednesday, and was hoping someone could recommend me a good grade II or thereabouts please?
I live in N.Wales and have been lucky enough to do about 30 routes in Snowdonia already this winter, but never done any in the Lakes.
Going to drive up on tuesday night & kip in the car so will be getting a good early start.
Thanks in advance.
Andy
I live in N.Wales and have been lucky enough to do about 30 routes in Snowdonia already this winter, but never done any in the Lakes.
Going to drive up on tuesday night & kip in the car so will be getting a good early start.
Thanks in advance.
Andy
In reply to elliptic:
Well done - just proves there's no need to queue if you choose your timing well.
DSM
Well done - just proves there's no need to queue if you choose your timing well.
DSM
In reply to DSM:
We stuck with plan A and did DCG yesterday. Had to wait for a bit for 2 teams to finish the first pitch but it was quite mild so good queuing weather. A pre-dawn or late-morning start would be best to avoid queues.
A fine route, just a shame it's not longer
We stuck with plan A and did DCG yesterday. Had to wait for a bit for 2 teams to finish the first pitch but it was quite mild so good queuing weather. A pre-dawn or late-morning start would be best to avoid queues.
A fine route, just a shame it's not longer
In reply to icnoble: Thanks for the comment mate, appreciated!
Ray
Ray
In reply to 3leggeddog: He he he !!
In reply to trek:
pinnacle ridge - gable crag
Pendulum gully - scrubby crag
both good routes of decent lengh, pinnacle ridge on gable the better. Possibly hard for grade 2.. but mines the old guide book so maybe 3 in new one.
Pendulam gully great value, difficulties short lived but a very enjoyable route.
Hope you have fun
pinnacle ridge - gable crag
Pendulum gully - scrubby crag
both good routes of decent lengh, pinnacle ridge on gable the better. Possibly hard for grade 2.. but mines the old guide book so maybe 3 in new one.
Pendulam gully great value, difficulties short lived but a very enjoyable route.
Hope you have fun
In reply to Neil Kazimierz Sheridan: Did Summit Route on Coniston Old Man, mostly front pointing on hard neve, bit sugary in places, straight forward snow all the way, only a Grade 1 in those conditions. Fabulous views over Scafell Range from the top and warm in the sun
In reply to Neil Kazimierz Sheridan: That's about the right grade if the pitch in the middle is there. Last time I was there, a couple of laddos were having exceptional fun trying to get up it as a dry tool / scritchy scratchy entertainment. We tootkled leftwards into the next gully and up that.
In reply to Mike Hall:
Might try that one tomorrow. I was going to visit Striding Edge but heard that it's not so good anymore.
Might try that one tomorrow. I was going to visit Striding Edge but heard that it's not so good anymore.
In reply to Neil Kazimierz Sheridan:
I did Striding Edge last Thursday and it was fantastic
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=138616
> (In reply to Mike Hall)
>
> Might try that one tomorrow. I was going to visit Striding Edge but heard that it's not so good anymore.
>
> Might try that one tomorrow. I was going to visit Striding Edge but heard that it's not so good anymore.
I did Striding Edge last Thursday and it was fantastic
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=138616
In reply to Shamus: Inaccessible Gully is now truly inaccessible for another year, having fallen down (along with optimistic climber) yesterday. Hart Crag Icefalls nearby are in excellent nick.
John
John
In reply to Shamus: Today: up Striding, down Swirral, across the back of Red Tarn Cove and up Wall and Ramp (II/III), which had some good neve in the middle section, no ice and sugary snow at the top with a hint of a cornice, then back down Swirral and home. Warm in the sun, but some wind chill at the top. Spectacular views.
In reply to John Kettle: Were they ok?
In reply to Dave Warburton: Battered egos, but otherwise fine - quite a large fall too by all accounts (I did'nt see it).
John
John
In reply to John Kettle: I was belaying the faller. The leader only fell 5-10m onto to a good friend placement above him. Totally unhurt. Went to Hart Crag to do Cold Lazurus.
In reply to Terry Robinson: Ah good. Sounds like the making of a good day out! I take it you were unscathed from it collapsing?
In reply to G Graham: Yes. All the Hart Crag Icefalls looked in good nick. You could take your pick really.
In reply to Dave Warburton: Indeed. I took the wise decision to belay at the side.
In reply to Terry Robinson:
Presumably the friend placement was bellow him before he fell?!
> (In reply to John Kettle) I was belaying the faller. The leader only fell 5-10m onto to a good friend placement above him.
Presumably the friend placement was bellow him before he fell?!
In reply to Terry Robinson: Can I take that as a recommendation of Hart Crag Ice Falls for this weekend? Are they easy to find? I'm presuming on the Link Cove side of Hart Crag?
In reply to Shamus:
Anybody know how white the buttresses are on Scafell as I'm thinking about a few mixed options for the weekend? I know Moss Ghyll and Steep Ghyll are in but I've done them both and the lad I'm climbing with has done them both this season so ideally we'd not want to end up on these.
Anybody know how white the buttresses are on Scafell as I'm thinking about a few mixed options for the weekend? I know Moss Ghyll and Steep Ghyll are in but I've done them both and the lad I'm climbing with has done them both this season so ideally we'd not want to end up on these.
just got back from great end. fantastic conditions, build of ice in window, south east and central greater than i've seen before, and good neve everywhere, although still a bit of windslab at top of window gully, but easily avoidable. I would strongly recommend doing right hand groove if you are comfortable on grade 3 ground, the first pitch is excellent, probably best pitch of ice on great end at the moment. Route deserves more than 1 star!
enjoy,
Bryan
In reply to Shamus:
Heading up to the Lakes this weekend, looking for some grade II/III routes.
Never winter climbed in the Lakes before, so my knowledge is zip!
Thinking Great End (as above!) or Red Tarn (anyone been there recently?).
Any other suggestions for us to check out at this sort of grade would be much appreciated.
This is almost certainly the last weekend we'll be able to get away, so want to make the most of it - thanks in advance.
Si
Heading up to the Lakes this weekend, looking for some grade II/III routes.
Never winter climbed in the Lakes before, so my knowledge is zip!
Thinking Great End (as above!) or Red Tarn (anyone been there recently?).
Any other suggestions for us to check out at this sort of grade would be much appreciated.
This is almost certainly the last weekend we'll be able to get away, so want to make the most of it - thanks in advance.
Si
In reply to SCC: Both those spots should be fine. Pendulum Gully on Scrubby Crag may be ok with an early enough start (it faces East) and Hart Crag icefalls nearby should almost certainly be ok
In reply to SCC: I was at Red Tarn on Tuesday - did Wall and Slab, more lke II than III in current conditions i.e. decent neve in the middle, no ice, but 200ft of sugary snow at the top and a hint of a cornice - far from perfect but good fun.
In reply to Exile:
Second hand, and old information, but I know someone who did Botterills last sunday in good nick, however i would be suprised if it was still in. He said that Pisgah Buttress looked very bare.
Cheers, Loz
Second hand, and old information, but I know someone who did Botterills last sunday in good nick, however i would be suprised if it was still in. He said that Pisgah Buttress looked very bare.
Cheers, Loz
In reply to all:
Cheers for that, much appreciated.
Was looking at Pendulum Gully as a possibility, but don't think we'll be there early enough.
Si
Cheers for that, much appreciated.
Was looking at Pendulum Gully as a possibility, but don't think we'll be there early enough.
Si
In reply to loz01:
That's what I thought. Done Botterills a while ago so be good to do something new. Thanks.
That's what I thought. Done Botterills a while ago so be good to do something new. Thanks.
In reply to Exile: What about Slingsby Chimney route?
Did we see you on your way down? You had soloed a few routes?? Excellent day out on Great End. My first proper winter day out!
In reply to quirky:
...and here are a few piccies of Great End and Custs gully today.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/sherpa2coats
...and here are a few piccies of Great End and Custs gully today.
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/sherpa2coats
In reply to Ann S: Love your picture of Tebay ice Ann.
In reply to SCC: I did it last Sunday, was in good nick then and fully formed (no bare bits)would recomend it. Also we did not start early as drove over from Newcastle and was not on the route before 10 o,clock.
In reply to Shamus:
Was on Great End today. No overnight frost meant the snow is very soft below about 750m.
Plenty of ice on Central gully LH and Window gully.
Temp was just above freezing at the summit at midday.
Was on Great End today. No overnight frost meant the snow is very soft below about 750m.
Plenty of ice on Central gully LH and Window gully.
Temp was just above freezing at the summit at midday.
In reply to Simon22: Two of us did Moss Ghyll (Collie Exit) on Scafell today. Pretty soft snow on the approach and from the top to the bottom of Deep Ghyll descent. That said, the snow on the route was fairly chewy with not much ripping through of axes. Sparse but fairly solid ice on the Collie Step. Given the warming forecast it might be OK tomorrow, but I'm glad I had the chance to do it today. Plenty snow and easier angled ice right of the Shamrock.
In reply to SCC: Did Central Gully LH ,Great End ,on Thurs and it was brill-plenty ice in upper reaches and snow at top seemed well-consolidated.We had a fantastic day on this 2**grade lll.Highly reccomend it to you.
In reply to Shamus: Advice please as to whether anything is likely to be in condition on monday/tuesday given the rising temperatures forecast. I'm thinking of easier routes up to grade III, or is it likely to be too slushy/loose?
In reply to cragtyke:
Been on Hart Crag icefalls this morning. Left the crag just after mid day having done three routes, nothing was really dripping at that point so if there are overnight frosts they'll still be good Monday / Tuesday.
Been on Hart Crag icefalls this morning. Left the crag just after mid day having done three routes, nothing was really dripping at that point so if there are overnight frosts they'll still be good Monday / Tuesday.
In reply to Exile: just did Moss Ghyll.GoOD NICK.TRAVERSE BELOW TENNIS COURT IS THIN AND COLLIES STEP TOO. WARMING UP UNDER ICE. LOT OF ICE FALLING DOWN GULLY FROM WARMING UPPER SLABS. EXCUSE CAPITALS - PHONE IS ACTING UP. STEEP GHYLL ALSO CLIMBED.
Ross
Ross
In reply to cragtyke: just keep an eye for night time temps and if it falls down to maybe 2 degs sea level then high up (above say 700 mtr) shaded/sheltered gullies will be fine but you must be on the cragh EARLY to avoid dissapointment.
usual suspect will be best bet i'd imagine i.e great end etc but like mentioned hart crag icefalls also worth a look and are quite good - short chute i thought quite stiff though !
usual suspect will be best bet i'd imagine i.e great end etc but like mentioned hart crag icefalls also worth a look and are quite good - short chute i thought quite stiff though !
In reply to jas wood:
Great End was indeed in fantastic nick for the early starters this morning. Extremely benign - willing ice and some difficulties banked out - for instance the corner exit to LH Central Gully a bit easier than usual. Ditto Window, with the RH icefall in bomber condition. The exciting ppart of the day was the steep ice pitch exit on SE Gully which was quite interesting for the grade and felt more sirius than Central Gully.
Lots of nice folk out working around each other, but was rather busy by the time I finished around 12.00
Should surely be good for a couple of days yet for anyone who can get out, sadly I can't
Great End was indeed in fantastic nick for the early starters this morning. Extremely benign - willing ice and some difficulties banked out - for instance the corner exit to LH Central Gully a bit easier than usual. Ditto Window, with the RH icefall in bomber condition. The exciting ppart of the day was the steep ice pitch exit on SE Gully which was quite interesting for the grade and felt more sirius than Central Gully.
Lots of nice folk out working around each other, but was rather busy by the time I finished around 12.00
Should surely be good for a couple of days yet for anyone who can get out, sadly I can't
In reply to wercat: second that! good day on great end today - loads of ice in and around window gully lots of variations and bits to be added - also did central gully in the afternoon - lots of folk and by 2:30pm today it was feeling very sugary - snow was all mush - apparently was 4 degrees - felt warm
spring is on the way
spring is on the way
In reply to jas wood:
short chute i thought quite stiff though !
Do you think Short Chute is the gully line about 60m to the right of the IV 5 ice smear refered to in the guide rather than the shorter groove to it's left? We had real difficulty matching the descriptions to what we saw on the ground.
(We thought Short Chute, if it is what I've described, to be III 4, and better than the right hand line on the main ice fall and the aforementioned ice smear.)
short chute i thought quite stiff though !
Do you think Short Chute is the gully line about 60m to the right of the IV 5 ice smear refered to in the guide rather than the shorter groove to it's left? We had real difficulty matching the descriptions to what we saw on the ground.
(We thought Short Chute, if it is what I've described, to be III 4, and better than the right hand line on the main ice fall and the aforementioned ice smear.)
In reply to Exile:
Found this on the Rockfax database:
Short Chute: 50m. Right again there is a prominent steep buttress. The right side of this often forms an excellent ice route. Start up an ice fall which narrows into a chimney at the top.
USER COMMENTS
Climbed this and a route about 6 m right of it in 1997. The route on the right followed an ice smear and was probably about IV,5 with poor protection.
The discription fits the route we climbed, but I think the lad who put the comment about about the IV 5 smear was on the wrong groove. I suspect the guide book writers used this info' hence Short Chute is now described as just to the left of, rather than 60m to the right of, the smear.
Found this on the Rockfax database:
Short Chute: 50m. Right again there is a prominent steep buttress. The right side of this often forms an excellent ice route. Start up an ice fall which narrows into a chimney at the top.
USER COMMENTS
Climbed this and a route about 6 m right of it in 1997. The route on the right followed an ice smear and was probably about IV,5 with poor protection.
The discription fits the route we climbed, but I think the lad who put the comment about about the IV 5 smear was on the wrong groove. I suspect the guide book writers used this info' hence Short Chute is now described as just to the left of, rather than 60m to the right of, the smear.
In reply to Exile: coudn't really match the line we did with anything but the description for short chute.
it was an initial ice smear then over a bulge into a constricting shallow chimney which offered little in the way of decent gear and climbing although wasn't hard wasn't easy either !
i'd have given IV 4 personally on the day.
it was an initial ice smear then over a bulge into a constricting shallow chimney which offered little in the way of decent gear and climbing although wasn't hard wasn't easy either !
i'd have given IV 4 personally on the day.
In reply to Exile:
Yes, I did it last year at the end of the good part of the season and thought it was very stiff for the grade. III/IV 4? Didn't quite feel a full on IV.
NMM
Yes, I did it last year at the end of the good part of the season and thought it was very stiff for the grade. III/IV 4? Didn't quite feel a full on IV.
NMM
In reply to jas wood:
I know what you mean Jas, and I know length isn't everything, just can't bring myself to give it the same grade as North East Buttress!
I know what you mean Jas, and I know length isn't everything, just can't bring myself to give it the same grade as North East Buttress!
Did Deep Ghyll Integrale today on Scafell. The crag has warmed up substantially and a lot of snow was soft and felt insecure. The route itself is fabulous - the ledge system going on and on, getting narrower and narrower, making me feel like I had missed the exit somewhere (also, is a good 50 metres longer than the guidebook says. The exposure is great and it was a good choice today.
I can't see much being in tomorrow except icefalls.
We found a sling at the bottom of Moss Ghyll yesterday - please claim it if it is yours.
Ross
I can't see much being in tomorrow except icefalls.
We found a sling at the bottom of Moss Ghyll yesterday - please claim it if it is yours.
Ross
In reply to Ross McGibbon:Up at gable crag sunday save yourself the trip every thing melting and sugary back to rock next weekend.
In reply to Shamus:
Was at Great End yesterday, did Central Gully Left Hand, Window gully and another route i've yet to identify the first gully left of Custs. Snow was very sugary and everything was dripping wet. The ice pitches are still intact but the thaw is underway. Only saw a couple of other people climbing all day. Definately worth going and thoroughly enjoyed it but may be the last lakes outing this season?
Was at Great End yesterday, did Central Gully Left Hand, Window gully and another route i've yet to identify the first gully left of Custs. Snow was very sugary and everything was dripping wet. The ice pitches are still intact but the thaw is underway. Only saw a couple of other people climbing all day. Definately worth going and thoroughly enjoyed it but may be the last lakes outing this season?
In reply to Shamus: Managed up SE gully on Great End today, really wet, chossy snow, not much ice left in there! Anything that was had a large stream running underneath! Don't imagine it will see many more ascents! Most of the other routes looked very much the same. Plenty of white stuff left in Central gully but the majority of the ice is disappearing fast.
In reply to MadProfessor: Was out in Red Tarn on Saturday - snow definitely softening up. We started up a short bit of ice in cloudy conditions, only identified where we'd been on the way down, to the left of Gully 3. Have posted a photo (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=139594). Can I ask if this is what the FRCC guidebook describes as 'broken ground between the gullies and Striding Edge has a few interesting pitches which may be linked together to provide some entertaining climbing...'
In reply to Steve Kempley: I reckon it must be said broken ground from your photograph. It's certainly well to the left of Gully 3. Possibly/probably the last winter climb you and I will do in the Lakes this season, sadly.
In reply to lithos: yes that sounds like it, but we climbed the chimney/cave direct rather than skirting to the left. I was quite pleased with myself for doing this only to watch someone effortlessly solo it right behind me!
In reply to oscarsdad:
I ran into work yesterday in shorts for the first time this year, not a sure fired way of judging that the Lakes winter is now over, but a good indication that this could finally be the case. (I could obviously be wrong!)
What were people's highlights then? Mine:
Doing Two Grooves on Brown Cove Crags because it's good to have your eyes opened to venues you've dismissed.
Climbing Raven Crag Gully as I think its one of the two best IVs I've done.
Hearing my wife rave about her amazing day ski touring up and down Helvellyn.
Getting up early and soloing SE Gully and Central Left Hand on a day I wasn't sure there would be good conditions and having the crag to myself. (20yrs after doing Central Left Hand as my first winter route.)
Having a phone call from an old climbing partner I thought I'd lost contact with and two days later doing Dove Crag Gully with him on our own, on a weekend, on an amazing weather day.
Climbing in new places with old friends.
I ran into work yesterday in shorts for the first time this year, not a sure fired way of judging that the Lakes winter is now over, but a good indication that this could finally be the case. (I could obviously be wrong!)
What were people's highlights then? Mine:
Doing Two Grooves on Brown Cove Crags because it's good to have your eyes opened to venues you've dismissed.
Climbing Raven Crag Gully as I think its one of the two best IVs I've done.
Hearing my wife rave about her amazing day ski touring up and down Helvellyn.
Getting up early and soloing SE Gully and Central Left Hand on a day I wasn't sure there would be good conditions and having the crag to myself. (20yrs after doing Central Left Hand as my first winter route.)
Having a phone call from an old climbing partner I thought I'd lost contact with and two days later doing Dove Crag Gully with him on our own, on a weekend, on an amazing weather day.
Climbing in new places with old friends.
In reply to Exile: Lakes highlights so far (keep the faith!!!!!)
Doing a winter ascent based around Grey Knotts Face covered in good neve in early January when it was really cold
Soloing Sourmilk Gill before breakfast and then going back to a nice warm hotel and a fry up
Climbing Cautley Spout in an evening from Sheffield after work the day before it thawed out.
Pendulum Ridge on Scrubby, hard for III but brilliant
Soloing Easy Gully on Dow in the sun on perfect neve
Doing a winter ascent based around Grey Knotts Face covered in good neve in early January when it was really cold
Soloing Sourmilk Gill before breakfast and then going back to a nice warm hotel and a fry up
Climbing Cautley Spout in an evening from Sheffield after work the day before it thawed out.
Pendulum Ridge on Scrubby, hard for III but brilliant
Soloing Easy Gully on Dow in the sun on perfect neve
In reply to Exile: by the way, did you think Raven Crag Gully was worth IV? I thought III (4) was ok when I did it last Feb
In reply to MattG:
I thought mid IV as it was certainly thinner when we did it than in the cold climbs photos. We ran at least the first two guide book pitches together and I thought that gave a good sustained 50 metres of IV 4, certainly more sustained, (and better,) than Comb Gully for example. A couple of friends who are steady on III did it just after us and thought it was definately a step up for them.
Having said all this I could see how with more freeze thaw it could get easier.
I thought mid IV as it was certainly thinner when we did it than in the cold climbs photos. We ran at least the first two guide book pitches together and I thought that gave a good sustained 50 metres of IV 4, certainly more sustained, (and better,) than Comb Gully for example. A couple of friends who are steady on III did it just after us and thought it was definately a step up for them.
Having said all this I could see how with more freeze thaw it could get easier.
In reply to MattG:
We did it the day before the first (mid January) thaw. I've not done enough yet to be confident of giving a grade, but it was easier than any of the IVs we've done this year (apart from Taxus Icefall Finish, which was easier than many of the IIIs we've done!).
We did it the day before the first (mid January) thaw. I've not done enough yet to be confident of giving a grade, but it was easier than any of the IVs we've done this year (apart from Taxus Icefall Finish, which was easier than many of the IIIs we've done!).
In reply to Exile: My highlight was climbing a lakes classic rock climb with axes and crampons. I didn't post any pics on here because of the controversy surrounding this subject, but we definitely thought it was in winter nick. Dove crag gully was also very good before it got stepped out.
Ian.
Ian.
In reply to Toreador: I found Taxus Icefall mid range IV, I guess it depends so much on the precise conditions on the day, we had semi consolidated neve on the steep pitches, rather than solid water ice
In reply to MattG:
Spot on! We found Pendulum ridge really steady III, and that was using my old MT technical axe and hammer.
Ian.
> (In reply to Toreador) I found Taxus Icefall mid range IV, I guess it depends so much on the precise conditions on the day,
Spot on! We found Pendulum ridge really steady III, and that was using my old MT technical axe and hammer.
Ian.
In reply to Ian Black: yeah, it's the precise conditions that count. All in all I think the guidebook grade is ok for Pendulum Ridge, it took me a bit by surprise as we did it as a second route of the day and I ended up leading it all.
In reply to MattG:
The turf on the ridge was bomber when we did it. Despite the grade we thought it was a fantastic route with the feel of something bigger and more serious.
Ian.
> (In reply to Ian Black) yeah, it's the precise conditions that count. All in all I think the guidebook grade is ok for Pendulum Ridge,
The turf on the ridge was bomber when we did it. Despite the grade we thought it was a fantastic route with the feel of something bigger and more serious.
Ian.
In reply to Ian Black: Yeah, likewise with us, the turf was great. I fully agree, it was an excellent route, really interesting all the way up and with good exposure too, that main face to the left on Scruuby looked really steep too
In reply to MattG:
My winter highlights:
Not having to drive for hours and suffer a coronary inducing diet and that awful fizzy pop they call heavy to go climbing.
My winter highlights:
Not having to drive for hours and suffer a coronary inducing diet and that awful fizzy pop they call heavy to go climbing.
In reply to 3leggeddog:
Deep fried marsbar and heavy = proper mountain food
> (In reply to MattG)
>
> My winter highlights:
>
>
> Not having to drive for hours and suffer a coronary inducing diet and that awful fizzy pop they call heavy to go climbing.
>
> My winter highlights:
>
>
> Not having to drive for hours and suffer a coronary inducing diet and that awful fizzy pop they call heavy to go climbing.
Deep fried marsbar and heavy = proper mountain food
In reply to Ian Black:
and the real highlights
Sour Milk Ghyll buttermere, 1000ft of pure joy in excellent company
Racing up Taylor Ghyll force to avoid the spray
Corvus and Raven Crag Gully on a snow day off work and listening to the bollocking my pal got for getting home late afterwards
Everything I climbed on Scafell, always worth the walk
the low points
not knowing how to ski and the frustrating period at the start of the winter when nothing was in/accessible/safe
not having a landrover with snow chains to access crags from snowed in roads
That it is probably over for this season
and the real highlights
Sour Milk Ghyll buttermere, 1000ft of pure joy in excellent company
Racing up Taylor Ghyll force to avoid the spray
Corvus and Raven Crag Gully on a snow day off work and listening to the bollocking my pal got for getting home late afterwards
Everything I climbed on Scafell, always worth the walk
the low points
not knowing how to ski and the frustrating period at the start of the winter when nothing was in/accessible/safe
not having a landrover with snow chains to access crags from snowed in roads
That it is probably over for this season
In reply to 3leggeddog:
Low point:
Heading off to do Great Gully on the Screes, picking the wrong gully, and doing a snow-and-scree plod up A instead
High points:
Everything else
Low point:
Heading off to do Great Gully on the Screes, picking the wrong gully, and doing a snow-and-scree plod up A instead
High points:
Everything else
In reply to Exile: Little Cham?
In reply to Shamus:
for me the highlight has to have been hearing of and seeing in action the Gully Code so soon after its introduction.
Winter will never be the same ...
for me the highlight has to have been hearing of and seeing in action the Gully Code so soon after its introduction.
Winter will never be the same ...
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