UKC

I'm not one to post a beta thread normally but having spent 3 full sessions on this I am just completely confused. I start on the left of the arete with the perma-chalked thin undercut for the left and right hand on the arete. Move the right hand up the arete and with a variety of heel/toe hooks I can get either my left or my right hand on the small crimp above. However, if it's my left, I spin out of balance as soon as I move my feet, if it's my right I have no idea what to do next! Attempting to match the left hand up to the right on the small crimp always ends in falling out of balance, and I can't stick the slopey pocket that comes next if I try to pop straight to it.

I'd been hoping to run into a local (saved me on a few other problems down there!) but I've not met a single person who's actually climbed the damn thing. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

In reply to AlistairB: Played on this a few weeks ago although didn't finish it either. The slopey pocket near the top is actually juggy on the left hand side (although quite sharp). Almost stuck it with left hand on crimp, right hand popping up arete until almost out of balance then popping right hand into pocket. Might get a better answer on the other side. good luck

In reply to AlistairB:

I pull on then semi-dyno for the hold. Easier than trying to be clever.

In reply to AlistairB: I remember slapping and holding it with the left hand undercutting the arete with right hand after a powerful/balancy pull on left edge and right foot out the way flaggin round the arete.

Was a while ago so a bit hazy. Took quite a lot of goes to hold the pocket

In reply to AlistairB: Ah ok, so basically it is a slap. Balls. Never mind, I'll let you know how I get on with my remaining tries! I just never seem to latch the good bit of the hold.

In reply to AlistairB: You can dyno/slap for the easiest tick for sure. But there's a beautiful sequence of gripping the undercling with your left, then the arete with your right, then hook and squeeze your knee around the notch on the arete. This keeps you on if you're wearing jeans, then you can remove your right hand and stick the crimp then up to the pocket. Its real nice this way.
Will