UKC

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here: 
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last weeks (207) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=449408

Repeat posters - 37
AJM
biscuit - thanks for stepping in last week. Bad luck on the pulley, but its good youre taking the positives from it and improving other areas whilst it heals
The New NickB - was the Trafford race this weekend - hope it went well if so
Miles - bit of an ill week
Thickhead - steady if road-bound week
TonyB - sounds like a good goal - time bound, targeted, all that sort of stuff - best of luck hitting it.
Steve John B - glad achilles is holding up
Daniel Heath - sounds like a busy and varied week. Is it definitely a strength issue on the 7as? Always worth considering whether strength is the real reason or not
Sankey - bad luck on the tooth infection Sounds like a busy few months ahead - you've got a challenge there to peak for each trip at the right time
Mike Nolan - good that you have started to put the remedial measures in action to boost the endurance
Jeriqo - steady week
leon - good to hear youre making steps towards improvement - one of my friends said this week "X would be a really good climber if he got better technique", and my reply was that that holds true for just about all of us
andy farnell - progress on left wall low at least, even if the clag prevented redpoint success
richardh - sounds like a good couple of sessions
Eagle River - good progress on goals. Hoping to be up at Malham in a fortnight, already relishing the spanking I'm sure to receive
Steve Perry (Pezz) - its always good to get outside isn't it
Shauna - pretty quiet week, but good to see you targetting weaknesses
mattrm - shame about the Sunday trad, but if youre not feeling 100% then these things definitely affect you
petestack - definitely pulled it back with Sundays effort
agibb - sounds like you've got the goals focused for France there. Starting to get excited about it now.....
grubes - good bit of real rock mileage there - hopefully the good weather will stick around and bring spring with it
IainRUK - well done on the High Peak result
jkarran - I know how that "finding my feet" session is - I get them every year too..... hope the illness recedes
catt - good refresher break, now time to knuckle down again.
fimm - glad the leg and lead head are both holding up
Goonie - bad luck on the knee
Kevster - bit of mixing it up this week - new wall = fresh perspective
Liam M - shame about the cross country, but looks a good week otherwise
Stone Donkey - building up the volume is a good idea imho. Maybe you just start off to hard? Certainly my wall session this week (where the good results were 6b+/6c onsights) I started with 2 6as, 2-3 6a+s, 2 6bs, so I'd done 5-6 routes before I started to get onto the target grades for the day.
plexiglass_nick - sounds like a pretty busy week - good one on the V6 & 7
viking - shame about the rain at Gardoms, but well done on the V4 flash
Mark Torrance - liking the sponsorship deal
Nexonen - back from a week's climbing - any good routes/results?
Curious Yellow - effort on the monos, and a good rest of the week too
phja - good week from the sounds of it
Niels - sounds fairly busy - just not productive?
JimmyKay - hope Portland was duly crushed?


New posters - 1
Humperdink - welcome!

Absentees - 6
Murd - on tour
Eric the Red - Scotland still?
chris05 - surfing
jamesgreenfield
seankenny
andy

In reply to AJM


Thanks Andy,

It's been hard to measure progress over the winter. The temperatures have risen over zero now but we still have 60cm of snow, so it'll be a couple of weeks yet before I can get out on the rock. I think a competition goal for next year should help the winter motivation and at least be quantitative (which is good as the bouldering wall has almost completely stopped grading it's problems).

I've had an unintentional rest week. Just two fairly short sessions. I was keen to try the problems from the women's final in the Finnish cup. I wanted to give myself 4 mins on each (just like in the final). The massive difference was that I'd watched the final and had a lot of beta with what worked and what didn't. The first problem had been taken down so I couldn't get on it. I got the bonus on the second problem within the 4 mins and then dispatched it next try after a longer rest. I was pretty pleased to flash the third problem but couldn't do the fourth. In a subsequent session I managed all the moves on the fourth but wasn't close to linking it (even to the bonus hold). Only the last problem from the men's final was there. I could hang the starting holds, but that was it! It was great to try some of the final problems and it gives me a much greater sense of perspective about just how hard the finalists are pulling.

Font in 5 weeks. I plan to have 4 fairly hard weeks and then an easy week to taper. Last year in Font I wasn't close to any 7A. This year I'd really like to tick a couple of 7s in Font. I don't really have any STG before Font because it's just so hard to be quantitative about this when the indoor walls aren't grading problems. As soon as the weather permits I'd be keen to jump on Kru Krux Klan ( 7A boulder problem) and Molotov Cocktail (bouldery 7b+ route) as they both eluded me last year. I figure they should both be doable with snow still on the ground.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy, yes Trafford was this morning, it went pretty well.

My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster

STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg (achieved) down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:08. Sub 40 minute 10k (Trafford 13/03), Sub 1:30 half marathon (Wilmslow 27/03).

MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).

LTG (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon, fast times in some long fell races, bit vague this one as I am still very much fell novice.

Bit of a lazy week really, partly because of work commitments, partly tapering for an important race and partly plain odd laziness.

Monday - Hilly half marathon steady in 1:33, happy with this feel on target for 1:26-1:27 at Wilmslow.
Tuesday - Rest.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - Rest.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Rest.
Sunday - Trafford 10k, 39:51. I did not feel like I had a particularly good race, but I got my sub 40 so very happy.

Next week will be more regular training and mileage.

In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM. I completely agree. Can't believe how nice it looks outside now after this morning.

Thanks Biscuit.
I need a good kick up the arse from time to time.

STG (end of march):
RP 6b+ - North Wales not going to get done as I do not have any sports climbin trips planned
Milage and fitness for april trip to tremadog
MTG end of june:
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+
Onsight E1/E2
Flash Browns eliminate
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 7a

Last weeks goals:
Take it as it comes might be off to wales at the weekend but I am not sure. No wales trip due to offer jobs
At least too climbing sessions. Tick including one on real rock
Holmfirth tonight Tick

M: Holmfirth circuit 1hr 5 mins. good session getting old problems redone and trying hard
T: rest
W: Hudds Wall. 3:00hours. Bouldered to warm up then climbed routes mainly felt like I had a good strong session
T: rest
F: Rest bloody Ikea.
S: Football match. got 10 mins as sub secod half.
S: Depot. 3 hours working hard problems. I got wo moves further on the 6b and fell on move 26 of 28. Flashed a problem on the yellow circuit v7-v10 (it was v.soft). worked many more. knackered now

This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.

ok week but I want to climb harder. I think I need to look at my diet and weight again.

In reply to AJM:

Not productive no.
Felt weak all this week as well.

Monday. Rest
Tuesday. Rest
Wednesday. Bouldering
Thursday. Rest
Friday. Bouldering
Saturday. Rest
Sunday. Bouldering/Routes.

Lost all motivation.

In reply to AJM: Absent? Absent minded - thought I'd posted!

Ho hum - anyway, nearly there with this marathon training business and as yet uninjured.

M: day off
T: Slightly daft 5 miler with a colleague - 2m flat, 1m of stupidly steep roads, then 2m easy downhill.
W: Good session - 6x1km reps into the wind all around 3:50 then a steady 6 miler with a mate to give just over 11.
T: Flat 5m recovery
F: 20m at 7:28 pace - encouraging as 7:28 is pace for the "c goal" (rapidly becoming the "b goal" as I'm not sure I've got sub-3 in me this year, so target may be 3:05.
S: 5m rcovery
S: 23m bike with lumpy bits

Decent week, and I've gone past my Jan-Mar mileage from last year with 18 days of March left, so a cutback week this week then a final mileage week after that before the taper madness begins...

In reply to AJM:

Let me know when you'll be up at malham and I'll come along for encouragement/mocking, whichever is most appropriate.

STG (by end of April 2011): 7b at Malham
MTG (end of 2011): 7b+ outdoors

Tues: boulder indoors. Intended on going for some volume due to slightly injured finger but got enticed by a new set of comp wall problems. Think the grading was a little generous as I got all but one of the V6s first go.
Wed: Bolton Complex. Thanks to those who pointed me in the right direction for this, as expected I found the squats ridiculously hard compared to the rest of the routine but liked it so will keep it up. Also did other antagonist stuff and lower back stretching.
Thurs: Routes indoors, climbed with someone new so didn't want to put them through the roped laps ordeal. Got a 7a+ I'd failed on previously.
Fri: Routes indoors, got my first 7b indoors and it went first attempt. It definitely felt hard but maybe not as hard as the other 7b I'd been trying. Still, felt good to be doing hard (for me) moves when pumped.
Sun: Boulder indoors. Took a couple of goes to get a 7a+ circuit and did some other problems.

Didn't feel like I had a hard session all week but can feel some improvement on routes which is very encouraging. Must get back to Malham as soon as possible for seventh aardvark.

In reply to AJM:

M
T:Citybloc, some good greys good power session
W:
Thepot, circuits and laps on 20 degree board, decent session.
F:
Sat:
Sun: planned malham trip cancelled due to weather - though may have been ok in the end. went to climbing works in sheffield for a change, apart from some of the comp wall stuff, incredibly greasy holds, really disappointing, been a while since I'd been. trip to gym in afternoon, on treadmill, rower, x-trainer and bike, good.

not bad all in. keen to get out next week if weather holds or improves.

In reply to AJM:

PS if you head to malham in a fortnight, let me know, or post on the thread and I'll keep an eye out for you if we're up there!

Mon - nothing
Tue - 6 mile trail run around Gwydyr
Wed - nowt
Thu - 4 miles easy
Fri - nowt
Sat - Slow 14 mile trail run around Llyn Brenig and Alwen
Sun - 6 miles easy on the road

In reply to AJM:

Another week on the road, dog getting her stitches out tmrw so back to trails/fells which will be nice.

M: 6mile road run 200m ascent 41mins
T: Rest/Pancakes
W: 5mile trail run 160m ascent
T: 13mile road run 350m ascent 1:35
F: 9mile road run 250m ascent 1:07
S: 13mile road run 440m ascent 1:38
S: 10mile road run 300m ascent 1:11

20mile race next Saturday so low mileage midweek I think.

In reply to richardh: Malham was fine, weather great.

Andy F

In reply to Thickhead: Rhyader? Good race, hard start then lots of downhill, slight sting with a hill at around 18/19 miles but not a big one at all.

m: fell run 8 mile 800m ascent, Moel Eilio
t: hill reps, 8miles 500m ascent
w: 11 mile road run
t: lunch: track 14 x 300m reps. pm: 7 mile 400m ascent trail run cwm bychan
f: 7.8 mile road run
s: fell run 10.5 miles, 1000m ascent, Yr Wyddfa
s: 4 hr fell run, 15 miles 1500m ascent Moel Eilio and Mynydd Mawr combo

In reply to AJM: thanks andy

M-S nothing apart from daily heel drops, due to ongoing health problems and consequent tiredness. spent most of the weekend in bed.

In reply to AJM:

To those who have asked - the last time we spoke about it, plexiglass_nick, Curious Yellow and myself were talking about a wee visit, if the weather allows, the 26th/27th March. I really will be the one dogging the warmups

Indoor/training priorities

• Laps 4x 6c with re-tie rests
  
• If bouldering, actually try AeroCap (Gloucester) or circuits (TCA)
  
• Regular fingerboarding over the year
  
• Bike odometer record - 407km
  

<VSTG> - pre-Easter

• Focus primarily on getting mileage in on days out - either pumpy trad or sport onsights
  
• Maybe sneak a 7a+/b redpoint in if time/partners/etc allows
  
• Get up something at Malham
  

<STG> - pre-midsummer

• Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall
  
• Complete 7b+ pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7a, 2/4 x 7a+, 1/2 x 7b, 0/1 x 7b+)
  
• Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape

<MTG> - 2011

• Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 2/8 x 7a+, 1/4 x 7b, 0/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
  
• Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 1x 6c o/s, 3x 6c flash)
  
• Actually do some DWS this year

<LTG>

• Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
  
• E4 onsight
  
• 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
  
• 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags

<BHAG>

• Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  
• E5 onsights
  
• 8a/+ redpoint
  
• 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  
• Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

M: Nowt
T: Reading Wall. Chateauvert has obviously been good training for something. In all I think I managed 2x6a, 4x6a+, 3x6b, 2x6b+ (one ungraded, but it was between the 6b+ and the 6c in difficulty), 1x6c. I also managed good efforts on a sandbag 6a+ and another 6c, and had less productive goes on an utterly sandbag (the only one of the 4 "my mate's little book of sandbags" routes I didn't get) 6b, and 2 6cs
W: Nowt
T: Gloucester. Aerocap. Cut down the usage of the rests on it so I was mainly looking at one decent shakeout at the best rest and a few quick shakes at the others. Did 2 sets of 3x round the boulder (so about 2 150-move circuits in the end). Got a good pump on, working hard. Next I'll maybe try and cut down the use of the best rest so its more a series of shakeouts than a rest each lap.
F: Nowt
S: Cheddar. Tried to warm up at the roadside, but soon gave up when 4 minibuses of students arrived - lots of 10-year-old-girl-esque squealing made us soon retreat to quieter environs Tried 2 harder routes:
Sheer Lunacy (7b) I had a look at, managed to do all the moves but one. Really fingery move off a two finger crimp. My mate today did say though that he didn't use a 2-finger crimp when he did it, so perhaps I need to get some beta demo-ed for me. If I can get that move the rest should go, its quite cruxy. Maybe one to return to with stronger fingers later on in the summer.
Also tried the 7a+ whose name I forget (Scarred Mind I think). 3 bouldery sections separated by 2 hands-off rests. Couldn't figure the last bouldery section out - some horrific unpositive slopey gastons.
S: Wyndcliff quarry. Warmed up. Then got on a horrible barndoory 7a arete. Discovered that, even allowing for all other excuses like finding a hole in the end of my shoe, being tired etc I am really terrible at barndoor arete climbing. Fell off it more times than pretty much any other project ever, got angry, gave up, stripped the route, and stood round chatting in the glorious sunshine instead.

Feels like a pretty good week in terms of work done, but on the other hand no results actually coming from it as yet.

In reply to andy farnell:

so I've heard now, but even at 10am this morning in leeds it was chucking it down, it just didn't look worth it. proved wrong obviously!!

In reply to AJM:

Aye, thanks Andy, that was a good one and has helped to keep my new rolling seven-day total (see figures in square brackets) looking good for most of the week!

Thought I'd try logging this rolling mileage for a bit since I know fine that simple Mon to Sun totals don't tell the whole story and I've recently seen a friend doing same on his blog, so here we go. More road/low-level work this week than usual (it's a 'weather' thing), but at least that's generally good for the mileage (never the whole story anyway with my hill/trail miles normally requiring more effort than the 'same' on the road) and gets me moving quicker than I can sustain on most of my off-road courses. On which note today's ridiculous effort (battling the deepest snow of the year on the Dam track) should be worth at least 150% mileage on any sane system...

M: [54.7] Rest
T: [63.4] 3 x big laps, 8.7 miles (cold, wet, tempo)
W: [67.9] Lairigmor, 9.9 miles/1,700 ft (back in the snow!)
T: [65.8] Penstock + full Grey Mare's, 10.0 miles/2,500 ft
F: [69.9] Camas na h-Eirghe, 9.5 miles hilly road (steady out, fartlek back)
S: [75.3] 5 x reverse big laps, 14.5 miles (intermittent sleet, steady)
S: [64.9] Dam by Penstock & Ice Factor, 12.3 miles/2,200 ft (slow in snow!)

Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June

In reply to AJM:

Thought I would join in if thats ok...

STG - Get 6a sport onsight
MTG - Solid 6a sport onsights, boulder majority of V2/V4 problems

M - Reading Wall - 5+ leads, 6b top rope
T - rest
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - Reading Wall - bouldering - VB/V2 circuit and ticked another V2/V4 problem
S - Bouldering at Bonehill Rocks, Dartmoor

Taken a lot of rest this week as been over doing it recently, but the rest seems to be paying off!

In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy. Goals - 8b, 7B+

Tues - Volume bouldering at the Hangar. Did a couple more of the blues, some other stuff, felt tired.
Wed/Thurs - nowt
Fri - had about 40 mins on the BM, first session for a couple of weeks, boy did it feel hard.
Sat - family
Sun - Malham. Tried to warm up on Taking the Space, but froze my fingers and toes. Horrendous hot aches. Put the clips in Scavenger, then the sun came out. 2 goes, got spanked, skin shredded and sun blinded. Did Space Race on a TR to finish, which showed there is some residual stamina.

Andy F

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. In response to the two rest weeks is lazy, I've just shaved over a minute off my 5k time this week. So I think it worked!

STG - 25:15 5k TICK, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st weight
MTG - 25:00 5k TICK, Consolidate VS (6/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
LTG - 24:45 5k TICK, Lead HVS, maintain weight
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 5lbs

M - Rest
T - Exercise and stretches - 30mins
W - Rest
T - Rehab and stretches
F - 5k in 24 minutes!
S - 5 mile run
S - Rest (at work all day )

Shoulder feeling a bit better. Very happy with the run the other day. Admittedly the course isn't quite 5k, it's about 200m short, but it's what I normally run, so very happy to do it in that time. I'm going to time myself on a 'proper' 5k next week sometime. Still I've sped up a lot post Scotland. Hopefully going up again soon before the winter season is totally over. Had been totally lacking in any motivation at the start of the week, but picked up as it went on. Back into the swing of things now. Planning on getting out and doing lots of bouldering in the next few weeks, start getting ready for spring and hopefully lots of trad climbing. Getting back into normal eating patterns now, so hopefully the weight should start to slip off.

In reply to AJM: Thanks AJM Hope you've had a good week.

Monday: The Climbing Hangar - Bouldering.

Tuesday: Rest

Wednesday: The Climbing Hangar - Bouldering.

Thursday: Rest

Friday: The Climbing Hangar - Bouldering. Climbed well in this session. Tried some onsighting at V3-V6. I should purposely read problems more often as it helps so much! Climbed a lot of the blue circuit without much difficulty (V4-V6).

Saturday: Rest

Sunday: Stanage with my Dad in the afternoon. Lead Christmas Crack, Flying Butress and Central Trinity Direct. I then top roped Flying Butress Direct cleanly, not my ideal route but I climbed it well so I will lead it next time.

Good week for me. Climbing competition next Friday so I'm going to have a relaxed week next week. Pleased with today, felt quite strong.

In reply to AJM:

M: 4.3 mile run road flat
T: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat. PM, 3.3 mile run road minor hill
W: 10.3 mile run road minor hills
T:
F: strides and stretches then 9.8 mile run road minor hills pace (7:22 min/mile, which was pleasing)
S:
S: 19 miles road run, more or less flat, south London parks, last 9 miles pace.

Miles = 51, bacon baps = 2, complemetary coffee = 2.

In reply to AJM:
Re: Malham, that's the plan! Nick and I arriving two days early to practise the warmups so you don't show us up too badly
Hazel (just realised I am about to post as Nick)

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Hopefully you can give me the beta by then - I don't think you guys getting shown up is too likely on current form

In reply to AJM: Cheers, end of week was a dead loss due to wisdom tooth extraction recovery, guess it saves some weight...off to CIC hut week next week.

M: Bell Hagg
T: Climbing Works
W:
T:
F:
S:
S:

STG: CIC hut winter climbing trip THEN get in practise for Font
MTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)

In reply to IainRUK:

Yeah, did the same last year... They have changed the course slightly so you don't do the 1mile loop around the housing estate at the start. Which means the big hill comes a little sooner I guess.

How's things with you anyway, wrist still painful? When are you off to Norway?

I'm aiming to do 1 race a month this yr, if I get more than that I have a VERY understanding wife!

Jan: Nil
Feb: Nick Beer 10K
Mar: Rhayader 20
Apr: London Marathon
May: Llandudno 10mile
Jun: TBC - prob fell
Jul: TBC - prob fell
Aug: TBC - prob fell
Sep: Anglesey 1/2 or full - TBC
Oct: Snowdonia/Eryri
Nov: ? Conwy 1/2M
Dec: ? Aber 10K

I'm open to any suggestions for the summer months...

In reply to AJM:

Sorry! I'm grumpy, see later.

Had a great week in Scotland and ran 13 miles in the week leading up to it, nice and gentle.

S: drove to Scotland
S: Aonach Mor via gondala and Golden Oldie
M: Ledge Route on Ben, took in the summit
T: Central Gulley and Aladdins Couloir in Cairngorm, plus the munro
W: rest day - ran 7 miles along canal tow path
T: Fiacaill Ridge and Ben Macdui in near zero vis but no wind, spooky.
F: Aonach Eagach
S: D Gulley Buttress (was meant to be Curved Ridge)
S: drove home.

So Scotland was 50+ miles and 7 munros in winter conditions. Lovely.

Got back and started running again.

M: rest
T: spin 45 mins hard and run 2 miles
W: run 6.5 miles
T: rest
F: run 6.5 miles
S: orienteering, 100m before I sprained my ankle and went to A+E

So I'm pissed off because I've twisted my ankle again. Same one I did on the OMM so I guess it wasn't quite up to full strength. The hospital wanted to plaster it but I refused, I did take the crutches though. I'm on a working at heights course this week in Kendal, hence my post earlier in the week about running routes. Was really keen to get out and in the mountains knocking off some Wainwrights I'd never been up in the mornings and evenings. Instead, I'm in my room, staring at the crutches in the corner.

F*ck.

I am pretty pissed off. Got a 40 mile race in 3 weeks over rough terrain... will I make it?

That's my only goal right now. That and hoping I can get through this training course with half a leg. Ssh, don't tell anyone...

In reply to AJM: Another ill week and its just got worse :S

Mon/tue: nothing
wed: v short bouldering session to see if i could do an endurance session in the bouldering room (i can't really)
thurs: nothing
friday: leading - almost flashed a slabby 6c+ which was surprising but otherwise nothing interesting
weekend: ill

It looks pretty bad but I've been really busy with work atm so hopefully it'll improve soon. Spain in one week tho so i really have to work on getting better for that D:

In reply to Thickhead: Wrist OK, off to Norway Wednesday, should be OK, just wait and see with the wrist..

June: 1000m Peaks? good long fell race.
July: Ras Yr Aran, British Champs, July 9th? or around then..or the classic Y Wyddfa....
Aug: quiet time in the welsh calendar for some reason. The classic is Cnicht, August bank holiday weekend, short 4 miler up and down from Croesor.

heard they'd changed the course, wonder where they put the miles in. A car load from Eryri going down so will be a few out.

In reply to AJM:
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Arch. 1x V5, 2x V4, 1x V3. Offset pullups.
Wedns - Castle. 1x nails V3. Wave. Fingerboard.
Thurs - Castle. Knackered; sat around and chatted.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Castle. Not enough breakfast, blacking out! Went home, did some fingerboard later.
Sun - Arch. 3x V4, 2x V3.

Really keen to get out next weekend, forecast looking okay at the moment so fingers crossed...

In reply to AJM: Thanks for this again, but absent last week? Far from it!

M: Bouldering at wall, had meant to do 4x4s but too busy, so mucked about.
T: Run, 2.3m, 9.26/mile.
W: Wall, 6a, 6b+ (well hard!), 6b+/6c with 2 falls. Then some laps 3 sets of 2x6b on the vertical wall, with about 2.5mins rest in between sets. Couldn't do the last rep on the last two sets, just nothing there.
T: Nowt.
F: Nowt.
S: Winspit, Swanage, 6a, 6a+, 6b, all onsighted, then redpointed Lips of a Stranger 6c+ after just one fall on my first go, pleased with this.
S: Dancing Ledge, Swanage. 5+,6a, 6b, all onsighted, then tried to redpoint Mr Choo Choo 7a. Got right through the crux to beneath the belay, instead of clipping the draw I grabbed it! Feel this rather invalidated my ascent, well gutted. But very very close.

A really good week, have got a lot of stuff done. Great weekend climbing, good company and did some good routes too. Pleased to get a F6c+ very quickly (doubly so in that it had a big roof on it and I'm not great at roof climbing). My aim is to do a F7a in the first "bit" of the year, roughly until Easter or thereabouts, and I was so close today... got through the pumpy crux and had nothing left, so just grabbed the draw at the top.

It's fairly obvious I need bags more stamina and strength endurance.

In reply to Eric the Red: Shame about your ankle! Just make sure you rest it as much as possible and consider the plaster because it will help the healing in the long run. Mum refused plaster on a sprained ankle once and it is still relatively weak years later, I'm sure that I'd much worse than a few weeks in a cast!

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy,

Another mixed week, blighted by knees hurting but still managed some stuff.

Neg's: Bouldering I am weak (nick you're a lot stronger than I!) especially on overhangs/ arm type stuff. Routes my onsight head isn't all there.
Plus's: Felt steady & confident on RP low sport 7's. Had a lovely day on sunday with a more normal knee.

Mon:
Tues: Indoors routes - tried to lead all the routes on one side off the wall. Managed about 10 routes before bouldering. Stamina good. Fall practice too.
Weds:
Thurs: Castle bouldering - Knee played up. Did some V4/5s but mostly stuck to the easy stuff. Nice to meet a couple of the FC people there - climb again another time I hope.
Fri:
Sat:
Sun: Portland - 2x6b, 1x 6b+, 1x 7a (2nd go), 1x 7a+ (2nd go). Really pleased with confidence on the RP of the 7's. I knew as I lowered that they would go the next attempt. On sight was blown on one as missed an important hold and the other was a head issue. Needed to man up.

Next week: indoors twice (once at castle maybe again) and N Wales weekend.

Thanks, Kev

In reply to AJM:

Warning: I've just done cold treatment on my hand, so apologies for any typos that slip through.

Cheers Andy. I hope I get the training right. Still, it's all learning. I'm getting excited about the trip too Although next week I'm in Antwerp and the week after Manchester, so training may take a wee hit. This week:

M: Rest after the weekend
T: Led 10 routes in a vaguely pyramid fashion, between 4+ and 6a+ (Westway).
W: Top-rope ups and downs to warm up, then led 7 routes 5-6a+(Castle)
T: Warm up as yesterday, then 5 leads 5-6b
F: Rest
S: 8-9 miles on the bike, then Sandstone routes at Bowles. 4 warm ups, then fun playing on harder stuff (UK 5C- 6B) Didn't get any of them, but really enjoyed working the sequences.
S: Rest

Although I notice my endurance increasing, I don't feel like I'm getting anywhere near the level of pump a "proper" endurance session should have. The castle routes are just too technical I think. I spent a good 10 mins halfway up the 6a+ totally perplexed, before being lowered off.

Next week I have Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Tuesday I'll be in a new bouldering wall, so just trying out new (NON CRIMPY) problems for a bit of technique. Saturday with friends, so that'll be a taking-it-easy session. Will endeavour to make Friday and Sunday as hardcore endurance as possible.

In reply to Kevster:
Hey Kev, nice to meet you. We'll be in Wedns and/or Thurs so maybe catch you then.

In reply to seankenny:

I looked back, and I even remember reading your post. Missing a name out working from top to bottom is pretty special of me, and I wasn't even inthat much of a rush by that point either.

My bad...

In reply to IainRUK:
>> June: 1000m Peaks? good long fell race.


I think the extra mile loop is towards the end.

I had thought about the 1000m race, that should be long enough! Cnicht is a bit short considering how far I would have to drive to get there. Arans is a good idea - I wouldn't get into the Snowdon race I don't think - I'll leave that to the big boys

In reply to AJM: Cheers AJM – thought I’d come back for a bit. Now looking forward to seeing people achieve their goals as the weathers getting warmer!

Goals: March: make A-Team for 12 stage relays.
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make team for National 12 Stage.
May: sub 33min 10K.
This weeks goal: two quality sessions without injury!

Mon: lunch – physio exercises*. pm Long Run – didn’t get chance to do this last Sunday. Did 30mins steady with gf then about an hour quicker then last 15mins steady, 1:45:07 15/16M
Tue: Tired! Lunch – physio exercises. pm Gym, Weights* then X-trainer 45mins + stretches.
Wed: lunch – physio exercises. pm Steady run 7M in 48:17 + core session
Thurs: am went to see physio – bit of painful massage but apparently my back is pretty much ok. pm 5K time trial – went and took part in the local clubs 5K handicap race. Started off last out of about 45 starters and finshed 12th. Time was 16:36 which was quite pleasing as didn’t give it 100% was on an undulating course and windy night. 7M total including warm-up and cool down.
Fri: No soreness which is good. Lunch – physio exercises. pm Gym, Weights then Bike – 70mins including 45mins tempo.
Sat: am 8M steady in 60:04 run off-road in woods – beautiful morning! pm: 32mins easy off-road near home ~4M
Sun: am – Long run: gf’s penultimate long run before London so did the first 40mins on bike giving her drinks and then did 2hrs with her. Found it tough. 2:00:14 18/19M

Total ~60M
Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.

Really pleased with this week –Happy that the physio gave me the all clear and 5K time trial was pleasing and shows I’m in reasonable shape (still a good bit slower than my PB though!).

In reply to AJM:

Ha ha no worries. I think I'll live!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks AJM. yep - and another quiet week this week as essay writing continued - although I got to college on Thursday to discover everyone else had 2 week extensions. Oh well.

M - bouldering then some offset pullups. I feel like I might be getting a bit stronger.
T - essay
W - essay
Thurs - shattered/lazy and hadn't eaten all day so sacked off climbing.
Friday - went to see True grit at the cinema, which is sadly not remotely related to actual gritstone, but which was still a v good film.
Saturday - first trad of the year! 2 routes between showers, although picking a jamming crack and an awkward corner crack was a stark reminder that training indoors does absolutely nothing whatsoever to improve your ability on those sorts of routes! Went to the wall afterwards - 10 routes at about 6b, including flashing all the new 6bs, which is a result of them being a bit soft, not an increase in my skills!
Sunday - bit of bouldering once it stopped raining - beautiful day.

Back to the indoor training this week, although the tantilising step of doing a bit of trad has made me suddenly lose focus on pulling on plastic!

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. How's the AeroCap working for you?

Mammoth week this week (6 sessions) and managed to get out three times on real rock -- woo!!! Mainly due to just being sick and tired of climbing on plastic so I dragged myself out of bed at stupid o' clock in the morning for pre-work, sunrise sessions down at Churnet -- beautiful! Well psyched again now.

---------------------------
CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
---------------------------

ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering: Ok at current level
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)

---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------

STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (4 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (1 DONE)) -- COMPLETED!
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (21 DONE)
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh

MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates

LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.

---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------

M: Rest
T: Lead session at AWS. Good session and great to be back on lead again. Felt confident and actually took some leader falls -- only slumping on the rope but it was still on lead and I felt totally happy doing it. Happy about that!
W: Morning bouldering session down at Lower Churnet, mainly repeating problems and working eliminates. Beautiful morning with no one around! Finger / arm feels strong but need to be careful.
T a.m: Morning bouldering session down at Lower Churnet. Easy repeats, a few eliminates and a V3 flash. Lovely morning again!
T p.m: Bouldering at AWL. An easy, recovery session working V1-V3 traverses. Flashed the V3 wooden traverse which not many people seemed to be flashing -- a really creative problem with a nice down-warn mantle move and a lovely heel-hook to rock-over and reach up to a blind hold -- really nice! Happy about flashing that.
F: Bouldering at Upper Limits. Around V1-V4 traversing, working to a general mid-level pump. Also gently working in some crimpy problems (but climbing open hand). Felt good!
S: Day out at Birchen and a fight with Nautical Crack! Head was a bit iffy today but looking back it was a fun day out (and a great route!). Only seconded today.
S: Rest

Weight: 140.8 lbs (+ 0.2 lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: 7.1 %
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)

---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------

BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.

TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:

Reiki and meditation
Once a day: Cod Liver Oil supplement

Thank you AJM:

Upcoming races:
Mighty Deerstalker 10k off road run 19th March
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July

M: swimming 1 hour
Tu: lunchtime run 40 minutes. Evening: core/strength.
W: went on club run - went very steadily and held everyone else up, but leg held up ok. 6.5km in 40 minutes IIRC.
Th: was supposed to cycle to and from work, but weather was very windy and I had somewhat of a cold so I didn't.
F: rest and travelled to Braemar
Sa: Hillwalking - attempted Derry Cairngorm from Linn of Dee, but bailed at about 900m due to it being cold and windy and poor visibility and there being a couple of relatively inexperienced people in the party. A difficult call; a different group might have carried on and also have made the right decision for them.
Did a bit of core and strength work in the evening.
Su: Carn Aosda (Glen Shee) - straight up and down again for the tick, a bit of a slog in the snow.

Knee aches this morning, but I think it is OK... it will get a good test at the Deerstalker this weekend. Fortunately this is mostly off-road.

In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):

Feels like it's good for trad endurance sort of intensity. Definitely feel like shaking out on jugs and things is getting easier. Think I need to be mixing in a load more intense stuff though for the more sustained sequences though.

In reply to AJM:

Welcome back AJM!

STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)

Mon: nothing
Tue: bicep curls, press-ups, planks
Wed: bicep curls, press-ups, planks
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - nothing above V4, but made progress on a V6
Fri: rest
Sat: nothing
Sun: nothing

Bit of a quiet week, the fingers were a little less sore. Discovered the penultimate hold on the V5 I was trying is just too big for my small hands to hold (it's a wide pinch), so I'll have to find another to work! Hopefully I'm going to get out on the southern sandstone for a morning this weekend, fingers crossed.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy, knee was worse than thought so just going to lay off extreme heel hooks for a while which will be interesting as they are one of my fortes! Good week for me and it has purely been training.

Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River

Week 10 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.

So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...

and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...

GOALS:
Short: end Apr
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker), V9 (Sale Gosse)
Indoors: 7c+ RP, 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight, V8

Medium: May
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors

Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)

Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING PHASE: Strength 2 -
Strength 2 is just a refocus in terms of shocking the body so i move from repeaters and max pulls to max hangs and one arm pyramids. Seems to work well for me though i recken it is very injury prone combining the two. Managed to get through the work load without any teeks though I think I wasn't far off though these are the risks I feel you have to take to get stronger! Mono's (bottom row) are starting to feel path on middle fingers and holding smaller pockets with back 2 feels fine too, also progress on pinching rafters holding solid for over 5 secs with 5kg weight added. My happy point though was holding the 45 slopers with additional 7.5kg for over 5 secs x 5 feels intense but so good!

Bdeen playing around with the AnCap stuff and worked out a cirquit on the 45 board that seems to hit the spot will later link this into a 20 move cirquit for my PE stuff as well as 4x4's. Need to slow movements down so make sure I move feet on every move!

Continued with flexibility and also Bolton complex which is improving though this will be a slow process I think as my shoulder inflexibility is pretty poor!

All last weeks targets hit apart from 3rd strength session on Friday but was too boxed for it. Not bad week volume wise and introduced my 20 problems in 30 mins above V£ again. Try it this is hard and shows how bad your endurance is but the improvements come quite quick too as on my second session I saw improvemnt from 18 to 20 problems completed.

Rings session was poor due to arm still being wrecked from last week oops! Not really affecting climbing though and only noticed when i tried the rings session.

Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.

This Weeks Goals:
Entering into the Fatigue phase so massive volume sessions but intensity stays the same (power primary, Anaerobic Muscle Endurance Secondary), so the next week I am going to coninue to gradually get knackered as I up volume to hit fatigue peak last week was much better and was just off by one strength session.

- 3 campus sessions with max power pulls at end (max weighted pull up followed by all out throw with no weight)!, 3 20 in 30 mins sessions, 3x AnCap sessions, 2 x Power Bouldering, 3 core/push sessions, 5 Bolton complex session. 1 x Strength session on rings. 1 x conditioning session class. 1 x outdoor trip next Sunday hopefully! Sport or boulder.

Bring on the fatigue!!!

Weight: 75.8kg

Cheers

Gordon

In reply to AJM:

Quiet week for obvious reasons.

4 x Bolton dumbell complexes
4 x core
3 x flexibility
eccentrics and cold water treatment twice a day.

Core is good. Doing:

160 of various crunches
40 back raises
40 knee raises to chest
10 slow knee raises to full tuck ( front lever position knees on chest ) hold for 10 slow lower

Been doing proper abdominal hollowing form. Felt like my lower abdomen had been hit with a sledgehammer after the first session. Massive difference.

This week will be quiet. Got a vasectomy on wednesday to look forward to so that may see me out of action for a week then it's off to spain on 23rd. May get some low grade climbing done over there but we are house hunting really.

In reply to Goonie:

G, you're a training beast. Makes my poultry efforts look very amateur.

Hope the knee gets better, which one? - Stay off el chocco if its the right one..

K

In reply to Kevster:

Ducking/chickening out of the tough bits, then?

In reply to petestack:

Nah, just look a bit chook like when up the wall. You know, flapping and skwarking, being broody at the bottom after..

In reply to AJM: had a couple of weeks off after a bereavement. Also taking time tovreflect on stuff life/work/climbing wise as the last 12 months have been streeful to say the least. Hopefully I can get my self motivated and organised again now : )

First issue - weight. I'm kidding myself if I think anything other than losing weight will improve my climbing at the mo. Given that I weigh nearly 14 stone (5'9" female) I'm amazed I can get up anything to be honest!
So - first I need to diet - I'm tracking my food intake and exercise using an apparently called myfitnesspal. It really does illustrate how easy it is to take in too many calories without realising. Also trying to increase the amount of exercise I get

Mon - gym
Tues - bouldering at City Bloc with new club - will be good to have more people to climb with
Weds - funeral
Thurs - terrible hangover
Fri - gym - intervals and weights - good session
Sat - 1hr bouldering at huddersfield - poor session, felt tired and bored. Huddersfield didn't inspire me either
Sun - 3 hour walk in peak

I'm hoping to become more inspired and motivated towards training and setting goals in the next few weeks

In reply to AJM:
STG:
MTG:
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 11.2% fat.
Focus:

Mon: 30 mins ARC(20 mins alt sos). 4x4(v2,v1+,v1,v0)
Tue: Nowt.
Wed: Rest.
Thu: 30 mins ARC(20 mins alt sos). 4x4(v2,v1+,v1+,v1).
Fri: Nowt.
Sat: Nowt.
Sun: Nowt.


Not much this week. On the positive side I'm wearing a really comfy groove into the couch. Lovely spot for drinking beer & watching telly.

Good news, its now warm enough that the water level has dropped enough that my bouldering room no longer floods when it rains.

First time ARCing this year. Surprised that I'm ARCing at the same level I left off (maybe a reduction in fitness has been balanced by an improvement in technique?). Felt better than I expected to feel on the 4x4, could maybe do two sets @ the current level? Still a distance off previous fitness. Just need to get my arse in gear now & ramp-up the volume.

Elbow still doing it's thing, little bas*ard.

In reply to AJM: Cheers

Mon: 6k easy run at lunch, 2.5k swim in evening,
Tue: 13k easy run
Wed: 16k steady run
Thu: 18k lumpy run in Malverns. Legs felt really heavy and sluggish on first steep climbs, and generally tired throughout, but plodded on as it was still rather pleasant out there.
Fri: 20mins easy turbo trainer session
Sat: Windmills Whizz Fell(ish) race, (quoted 7miles, but somewhat short, CM category) 52 mins.
Sun: Hill Sprints, Roundhay Park

Really good week for running, with some decent sessions and biggest distance for a while. I'm quite liking getting three reasonable distance runs in mid week, though not sure about the order - I can choose to leave work early one day so can get out to the hills, but the other days are reasonably going to have to be road runs from home. I'm unsure whether to make the hilly one first to do it with freshest legs, or do it last on slightly tired legs to get them used to dealing with climbs when slightly fatigued. May have to experiment.

A little lacking in cycling time, but that was largely as I'd usually cycle with H over the weekends (at least at this time of year), but she was ill this weekend and I chose (rightly imo) to spend time with her rather than go out for a few hours on the bike alone.

Hopefully similar week coming up, except I have what I expect to be a harder race on Sunday, in the new Heptonstall Fell Race. I know bits of the terrain around there, but it'll be the longest offroad race I've done in a while and probably interestingly boggy and tussocky. Hopefully good fun.

In reply to AJM:

Helping in terms of general endurance or in terms of faster recovery (during shakeouts)? Good to hear it's working.

Instead of finger-boarding, I find that short intense sequences (3-5 moves at AbsMax) on a steep woody work wonders for tough cruxy sequence training. If you get on your redpoint VSTG then that might have similar effects if you choose the right route.

In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):

Both I think - I seem to not get pumped as easily on moderate ground, but in particular I do seem to be able to shake out better, that's the one I've noticed most.

Certainly hoping to get on something for the VSTG, got a day out Sunday if the weather is nice.

In reply to Kevster:


Good to meet you wednesday. I am not sure I am that much/at all stronger - I just climb quite a lot at that sort of angle. Your fingers certainly seem strong enough to hang on - think it might be core (to keep your feet solid/move them around) and use of momentum? At that angle it's all about keeping your feet on and flicking with your hips. You looked well solid on that weird yellow v4 - great technique.

Awesome job at Portland.


Keep to the training plan and you may draw abreast in the final leg.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Don't let Kev fool you Nick he is a secret training beast he can do at least 5 pints a night and still climb like that I find that more impressive. Yep told him about the core but he likes his beer to much

I have to all this just to keep up with him he does one to two session a week and seems to improve I hate natural talent!! God knows what would happen if he actually trained HMMMMM!!!

In reply to Kevster:

Hi Mate

No it's the left one and its not that bad just got scared at first but just need to lay off agressive heel hooks for a while so it will be allright for Font at end of April.

You know me I prefer my training to actually climbing but I am weird!!

In reply to AJM:

Yeah I was pleased with what we climbed for me, and had a great time. Definitely want to get out as much as I can this summer.

Last week exercise and diet not perfect, need to try harder to get back into it this week:

M - Nothing (driving lesson)
T - Swim
W - Swim
T - Nothing
F - Nothing
S - Swim
S - Nothing

In reply to AJM:

Good one for me last week - did one of the BMC Mastercalsses with Lucy Creamer. Targeted at those punters amongst us climbing 5 - 6b+ (ie not most of you lot!). Didn't learn anything that I hadn't been taught/shown before, but for some reason several things resonated more this time - especially climbing more economically with straight arms, and less flagging & more drop-knees. Anyway, stayed after and did some more routes - onsighted 2 x 6a, 2 x 6a+, and a 6b (first time I'd onsighted more than 6a), then fluffed a second 6b at the penultimate clip. So well chuffed! Also thought how much more I preferred climbing at a more leisurely pace during the day rather than trying to rush it in a couple of hours after a long day at work. Just the motivation I needed after a couple of so-so sessions down the local wall

Didn't get out this weekend - should have joined Kevster et al in Portland but family stuff took over

In reply to AJM:

M- 30 min hard run
Bouldering at the Tower
T- Rest
W- Bouldering at Nottingham
T- 40min aerobic interval session. Some little sprints but not too intense.
F- Fingerboard session. Crimps and 2 finger pockets.
Start of weekend exercise with the military
S- Ex: 6miles slow walk with logs during the day. 2 x 15min assault course including running with jerry cans. Some leopard crawling, squats and press ups for various punishments. 3miles walk (night nav) in the evening.
S- 2 x 15 min assault course. Pretty intense. Command tasks with some running. 6 mile walk at 4mile/hour pace with ~55lb bergen.

Knackered from ex. It's good training for "battle fitness" - running around with weight and doing lots in one day.

Trying to focus on bouldering. It might not be strength that's holding me back, but I think it's harder moves, be it composure, accuracy, technique or strength. I'll continue bouldering for the time being.

In reply to Stone_donkey:


What was the reasoning for using less flagging? I personally find flagging is a great way of finding balance points which help take the strain off the arms and therefore climb more economically. What reasons did Lucy give against them?

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, the 'finding my feet' Crookrise session last week was actually pretty good despite a careless tumble off the Sole! I'm finally starting to clear the cold up too.

This week could have been better, the latter part was spent mostly doing stuff my girlfriend wanted to do before disappearing off to Uganda for 3 months so I packed a bit too much bouldering into the first half of the week then suffered for it. Still being a bit lazy with my stretching and shoulders but the boredom of an empty house will probably help with that in the coming weeks.

M: Indoor, Depot. Couple of circuits V2-V5
T: Run 4.84mi (7:56 pace)
W: Indoor, Oaklands bouldering. Tweaky elbows and generally under-rested
T: Stretching
F: Stretching, shoulders and wristcurls
S: Run 6.89mi (8:27 pace)
S:

1 week:
Volume climbing [tick - good enough]
>3 Stretching sessions [fail - 2]
>3 shoulder and elbow exercise sessions [fail - 1]
>7mi Running [tick - 11+mi]
Lose 1/2kg (currently: 'not sure' kg) [fail +~0.5kg]

STG (end April):
7b+ RP
Steady E3 OS
12mi/week Running
74kg

MTG (end July):
7c RP
Steady E4 OS
<40min 10k

LTG (end 2011):
8a RP is at the back of my mind, lets see how the year pans out
1/2 marathon

jk

In reply to Goonie:
I'd argue that beer consumption affects weight, not your muscles in your belly and other areas. But yes, I did have a thought that core might be a weakness too. I'll have a few more goes on Nick's blue and see if it improves for me.

Good luck with the knee G. When's your next day(s) off?

I'll be at the castle thurs night again. Maybe bump into a few of you again?

K

In reply to Steve Perry (Pezz):

Lucy's comment (if I understood it correctly) was where possible always try and get both feet onto something rather than just the one. If it's an indoor wall and there is only the one hold then flag away, but watching lucy climb made me realise how much she would work at getting both feet higher (up to hip height) before gaining height by pushing up with her legs, whilst I was getting only one foot high and then flagging (the second foot not doing much to aid upward movement - just for balance). Partly it's a "style thing" I guess, but it certainly made me rethink what I'm doing...

Been away so I'll post for the last 2 weeks:

Week 28th Feb - 6th March
M: 3xDB complexes, BM (3 x 30 moves foot on, max hangs), core (500), leg raises, theraband and curls (am+pm)
T: 5m run, core, theraband and curls (am+pm)
W: 3xDB complexes, BM (3 x 30 moves foot on, max hangs), core (500), leg raises, theraband and curls (am+pm)
T: woke up with something pulled in my back
F: went for a sports massage ahead of surf trip
S: fly to morocco
S: rest (no surf)

Week 7th-13th March
M-S: surfing once or twice each day

Good trip away although surf was small and a bit rubbish over all, great to be away though. Got home last night, unpacked my board which easyjet had managed to snap the nose of despite loads of padding etc (NNFN). Also elbows were a bit shit for the trip so need to try to figure out whats wrong with them.

In reply to AJM:

By Apr 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Hall of Mirrors at the Cuttings.

M - Bouldering & Hangs @ Castle; Strength session with hangs and attempts on Pen Beige V6. Probably got overly distracted by this...
T - Bouldering @ Castle; Volume and aerobic session. 50 problems to V3
W - rest. Installed Beastmaker, now have a cool Beastmaker & Moonboard combo setup!
T - Bouldering & Hangs @ Castle; Strength session. Short hang session, ticked Pen Beige V6.
F - rest
S - Bouldering @ Curbar; Got a couple of hours in and wired the traverse on Gorilla Warfare, was raining though so couldn't top out.
S - Bouldering @ Curbar; Lovely to have warm sun. Ticked Gorilla Warfare quickly, had a play on Early Doors, and finally did Strawberries! The hardest problem at Curbar...?? Only took me 5 years or so!

Quite a good week ticking wise, but was pretty distracted from the training plan as a result. I'll also join the injury club as I've aggravated an old rotator cuff problem, the left supraspinatus. Continuing to train lightly while managing it, something I've fortunately got a fair bit of experience with.

In reply to AJM:

M-Route setting then testing at RP
T- Dinbren, bagged Dyperspace.
W- Route setting then testing at RP
T- Route setting then testing at Cambridge. (17hour day..)
F- Portland, went to Cuttings tried the Mind terrorist and got rained on....
S- Portland, blitzed Hall of mirrors all the way to the top and fell off the jugs on 2nd RP. Failed to muster the strength to do the crux again. WEAK! Felt about 30%.
S- Portland. Mileage day. Very tired after no sleep. Couldn't O/S a couple of 7a+'s. Climbing at about 25%.


Had my first day off today after about 13days on? Stupid really, but I have to climb when I'm at work and I want to climb on my days off.... How do you rest? I basically forced myself to not go to the crag today and feel better for it.

In reply to JimmyKay:

I was weak, ill, tired and drank far too much last week. I was really lucky to avoid injury. Need to sort this out.