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Big crag with over a thousand routes. Which are your favourites, and unsung gems?
In reply to sutty: for hvs and e1, sergeon's saunter and left unconc's got to be up there
In reply to sutty:
I like these:
VD Hollybush crack
S Balcony Butress
HS April Crack
VS High Neb Butress
HVS Eliminator
None of them unsung I'm afraid but good fun all the same.
I like these:
VD Hollybush crack
S Balcony Butress
HS April Crack
VS High Neb Butress
HVS Eliminator
None of them unsung I'm afraid but good fun all the same.
In reply to peter myers:
S - Bishop's Route
VS - Mississipi Buttress Direct
HVS - Queersville
E2 - Tower Face Direct
Again, not unsung but ace
S - Bishop's Route
VS - Mississipi Buttress Direct
HVS - Queersville
E2 - Tower Face Direct
Again, not unsung but ace
In reply to peter myers: Some nice choices there. At HS I'd go for Amazon Crack but otherwise that looks pretty good to me.
T.
T.
In reply to sutty:
Diff - Grotto slab
VDiff - Heaven Crack or Black Hawk Traverse Left
Severe - Black Hawk Hell Crack
HS - Christmas Crack
VS - Hargreaves Original
HVS - Eliminator
E1 - Left Unconquerable
Unfortunately, there's not much originality in there (and I've only included grades I've done a reasonable number of), but I think that the classics are classics for a reason. There are loads of contenders for each grade though.
Diff - Grotto slab
VDiff - Heaven Crack or Black Hawk Traverse Left
Severe - Black Hawk Hell Crack
HS - Christmas Crack
VS - Hargreaves Original
HVS - Eliminator
E1 - Left Unconquerable
Unfortunately, there's not much originality in there (and I've only included grades I've done a reasonable number of), but I think that the classics are classics for a reason. There are loads of contenders for each grade though.
In reply to gazfellows: surgeons saunter? no way! green mankiness surrounded by bog in a godforsaken part of the crag
In reply to pebbles:
That's a bit harsh! It's a great route, if a little brutal.
> (In reply to gazfellows) surgeons saunter? no way! green mankiness surrounded by bog in a godforsaken part of the crag
That's a bit harsh! It's a great route, if a little brutal.
In reply to sutty:
For the best more predictable routes from the Popular end I'm afraid:
VD Holybush Crack
HS April Crack
VS Hargreaves Original
HVS Pedlars Slab
A bit further afield for an unsung gem would definitely recomend Symbiosis at HVS (a harder scarier Sunset Slab)
For the best more predictable routes from the Popular end I'm afraid:
VD Holybush Crack
HS April Crack
VS Hargreaves Original
HVS Pedlars Slab
A bit further afield for an unsung gem would definitely recomend Symbiosis at HVS (a harder scarier Sunset Slab)
In reply to Mr Powly:
Can you believe that never had any stars until I gave it three in the back-to-front Stanage guide!
Chris
>
> S - Bishop's Route
>
> S - Bishop's Route
>
Can you believe that never had any stars until I gave it three in the back-to-front Stanage guide!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
No stars is harsh, but I'm not at all convinced that it's worth 3 stars as it is a bit disjointed.
> (In reply to Mr Powly)
>
> [...]
>
> Can you believe that never had any stars until I gave it three in the back-to-front Stanage guide!
>
> [...]
>
> Can you believe that never had any stars until I gave it three in the back-to-front Stanage guide!
No stars is harsh, but I'm not at all convinced that it's worth 3 stars as it is a bit disjointed.
In reply to Chris Craggs:
"Can you believe that..."
Yes, it was an unrecognised one star route of which there were many on Stanage at the time. You're guilty of letting your sentimentality get the better of you (I'm the same sometimes).
My list, none brilliant but all really nice for no star routes:
Delightful M
Burgess Crack inside D
Nice One VD
Burgess Crack Outside HVD (given HS)
High Neb Buttress Arete S
Pisa Crack HS (given VS)
Another Turn VS (given HS)
Fergus Graham Direct HVS (as per the Rockfax line)
Hueco Heaven Direct E1 (probably better ones but I've not done so many)
"Can you believe that..."
Yes, it was an unrecognised one star route of which there were many on Stanage at the time. You're guilty of letting your sentimentality get the better of you (I'm the same sometimes).
My list, none brilliant but all really nice for no star routes:
Delightful M
Burgess Crack inside D
Nice One VD
Burgess Crack Outside HVD (given HS)
High Neb Buttress Arete S
Pisa Crack HS (given VS)
Another Turn VS (given HS)
Fergus Graham Direct HVS (as per the Rockfax line)
Hueco Heaven Direct E1 (probably better ones but I've not done so many)
In reply to Monk:
I like its disjointedness, the top bit is beautiful and struggle to get to if S is tough for you, makes it all the sweeter when you get there. Can't believe it had no stars before!
I like its disjointedness, the top bit is beautiful and struggle to get to if S is tough for you, makes it all the sweeter when you get there. Can't believe it had no stars before!
In reply to Monk:
I have used its disjointedness as a plus, doing it as a short multi-pitch with beginners.
Chris
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> [...]
>
>
> No stars is harsh, but I'm not at all convinced that it's worth 3 stars as it is a bit disjointed.
> [...]
>
>
> No stars is harsh, but I'm not at all convinced that it's worth 3 stars as it is a bit disjointed.
I have used its disjointedness as a plus, doing it as a short multi-pitch with beginners.
Chris
In reply to sutty:
Blimey, there's some curious choices on this thread.
It's true there probably aren't any HVSses left on Stanage once the Rockfax upgrading brigade have passed by, but any of Right Unconquerable, Terrazza crack, Kelly's Overhang and Flying Buttress Direct would be miles ahead of anything suggested so far.
I mean, Pedlar's Slab Direct on a crag with Quietus on it FFS.
Anyway, at E1 and up I suggest Left Unconquerable, Quietus, Archangel, Old Friends, White Wand and Ulysses. All rather uncontroversial, I'd have thought - honourable mention for Nectar.
jcm
Blimey, there's some curious choices on this thread.
It's true there probably aren't any HVSses left on Stanage once the Rockfax upgrading brigade have passed by, but any of Right Unconquerable, Terrazza crack, Kelly's Overhang and Flying Buttress Direct would be miles ahead of anything suggested so far.
I mean, Pedlar's Slab Direct on a crag with Quietus on it FFS.
Anyway, at E1 and up I suggest Left Unconquerable, Quietus, Archangel, Old Friends, White Wand and Ulysses. All rather uncontroversial, I'd have thought - honourable mention for Nectar.
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Apart from those four!
Chris
(and c130 others in Eastern Grit)
>
>
> It's true there probably aren't any HVSses left on Stanage once the Rockfax upgrading brigade have passed by, but any of Right Unconquerable, Terrazza crack, Kelly's Overhang and Flying Buttress Direct would be miles ahead of anything suggested so far.
>
>
> It's true there probably aren't any HVSses left on Stanage once the Rockfax upgrading brigade have passed by, but any of Right Unconquerable, Terrazza crack, Kelly's Overhang and Flying Buttress Direct would be miles ahead of anything suggested so far.
>
Apart from those four!
Chris
(and c130 others in Eastern Grit)
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
John, I put the thread up to see if anyone moved away from the popular end, and so far it seems not many.
It may change as people who are working away from computers arrive home.
John, I put the thread up to see if anyone moved away from the popular end, and so far it seems not many.
It may change as people who are working away from computers arrive home.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Good point. I was just thinking very quickly off the top of my head, and forgot most of those (even though a couple tend to hover around E1 according to the guidebook you choose). I do think that Eliminator is a good route, and I genuinely think that I prefer the climbnig on it to Right Unconquerable, but perhaps it doesn't qualify as RU is such a striking line. I think that Stanage has a breadth and depth of quality at HVS.
> (In reply to sutty)
>> Blimey, there's some curious choices on this thread.
>> It's true there probably aren't any HVSses left on Stanage once the Rockfax upgrading brigade have passed by, but any of Right Unconquerable, Terrazza crack, Kelly's Overhang and Flying Buttress Direct would be miles ahead of anything suggested so far.
>Good point. I was just thinking very quickly off the top of my head, and forgot most of those (even though a couple tend to hover around E1 according to the guidebook you choose). I do think that Eliminator is a good route, and I genuinely think that I prefer the climbnig on it to Right Unconquerable, but perhaps it doesn't qualify as RU is such a striking line. I think that Stanage has a breadth and depth of quality at HVS.
In reply to sutty:
The thing is that the popular end has a lot of very good climbs and strong lines on it. I've climbed all over Stanage, and happily admit that I enjoy climbing the popular end routes. For example, I have climbed several of Offwidth's suggestions and genuinely think that I prefer the routes on my list. I'm baffled how Another Turn is better than Hargreave's Original or High Neb Buttress, for example.
Regardless, as you well know, lists such as this are nothing more than frivolity.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> John, I put the thread up to see if anyone moved away from the popular end, and so far it seems not many.
>
>
> John, I put the thread up to see if anyone moved away from the popular end, and so far it seems not many.
>
The thing is that the popular end has a lot of very good climbs and strong lines on it. I've climbed all over Stanage, and happily admit that I enjoy climbing the popular end routes. For example, I have climbed several of Offwidth's suggestions and genuinely think that I prefer the routes on my list. I'm baffled how Another Turn is better than Hargreave's Original or High Neb Buttress, for example.
Regardless, as you well know, lists such as this are nothing more than frivolity.
In reply to sutty:
Not in terms of favourite routes. That's not to say that I (and others) haven't climbed at Stanage End and points south before the more populated areas, just that my (and their) favourite routes at Stanage aren't in these places.
T.
> I put the thread up to see if anyone moved away from the popular end, and so far it seems not many.
Not in terms of favourite routes. That's not to say that I (and others) haven't climbed at Stanage End and points south before the more populated areas, just that my (and their) favourite routes at Stanage aren't in these places.
T.
In reply to Mr Powly:
Bishop's Route was my first trad lead and is thus responsible for the small fortune I spent on a trad rack. The meandering route with ledges and shrubbery was very different to the sport climbing I had been used to.
Not wishing to de-rail the post but can anybody offer advice on when to step up a grade in traditional climbing if you come from a sport background?
If someone could drop me an email with advice it would be much appreciated, thank you.
Bishop's Route was my first trad lead and is thus responsible for the small fortune I spent on a trad rack. The meandering route with ledges and shrubbery was very different to the sport climbing I had been used to.
Not wishing to de-rail the post but can anybody offer advice on when to step up a grade in traditional climbing if you come from a sport background?
If someone could drop me an email with advice it would be much appreciated, thank you.
In reply to Tru:
Whenever you feel like it. Just pick a route and have a go.
> (In reply to Mr Powly)
>
>
> Not wishing to de-rail the post but can anybody offer advice on when to step up a grade in traditional climbing if you come from a sport background?
>
>
Whenever you feel like it. Just pick a route and have a go.
In reply to sutty:
April Crack is very nice, but I'm surprised its the top HS on more than one person's list when Christmas Crack is just over --> there. Its much better imo.
April Crack is very nice, but I'm surprised its the top HS on more than one person's list when Christmas Crack is just over --> there. Its much better imo.
In reply to sutty:
Mod - Castle Chimney
Diff - Black Hawk Traverse Right
VDiff - Broken Buttress
Severe - Twisting Crack
HS - Manchester Buttress
VS - Titanic
HVS - Queersville
Mod - Castle Chimney
Diff - Black Hawk Traverse Right
VDiff - Broken Buttress
Severe - Twisting Crack
HS - Manchester Buttress
VS - Titanic
HVS - Queersville
In reply to sutty:
Hard to choose, Stanage isn't my favourite crag. Now if you'd asked about Agden Rocher...
Anyway, today's selection:
Mod - Grotto Slab
Diff - October Crack
VD - Helfenstein's Struggle
S - Crab Crawl (tricky grade - most of the best routes have been upgraded to HS)
HS - Paradise Wall
VS - Inaccessible Crack
HVS - Goliath's Groove (cos it's the only one I've done)
Hard to choose, Stanage isn't my favourite crag. Now if you'd asked about Agden Rocher...
Anyway, today's selection:
Mod - Grotto Slab
Diff - October Crack
VD - Helfenstein's Struggle
S - Crab Crawl (tricky grade - most of the best routes have been upgraded to HS)
HS - Paradise Wall
VS - Inaccessible Crack
HVS - Goliath's Groove (cos it's the only one I've done)
In reply to sutty:
S - Twisting Crack
HS - Norse Corner Climb
VS - Fern Crack
HVS - Travesties
E1 - 5.9 finish
E2 - Silica
E3 - Black Hawk Bastion
There you go, only 2 at the popular end (and one of those only just) but the only other E3 I've done on Stanage is Impossible Slab so it wasn't hard to choose between the two.
S - Twisting Crack
HS - Norse Corner Climb
VS - Fern Crack
HVS - Travesties
E1 - 5.9 finish
E2 - Silica
E3 - Black Hawk Bastion
There you go, only 2 at the popular end (and one of those only just) but the only other E3 I've done on Stanage is Impossible Slab so it wasn't hard to choose between the two.
In reply to sutty:
Some favourite unsung gems:
- Severe: Emily May
- HS: Pizza Slab (which has a great unrecorded direct start at about 5a)
- V1: Bell End
- VS: Central Buttress, Count's Crack
- V2: Beaky Direct (hard!)
- HVS: KitKat (but it's more like Severe), Titanic Direct (3*!)
- V3: Love Handles, Quicksilver
- E1: Tom Cat Slab (acquired taste?)
- V4: Headbanger on RHS (not recorded as boulder problem)
- E2: Miserable Miracle
- V5: Torture Garden
- V6: The Prince
Some favourite unsung gems:
- Severe: Emily May
- HS: Pizza Slab (which has a great unrecorded direct start at about 5a)
- V1: Bell End
- VS: Central Buttress, Count's Crack
- V2: Beaky Direct (hard!)
- HVS: KitKat (but it's more like Severe), Titanic Direct (3*!)
- V3: Love Handles, Quicksilver
- E1: Tom Cat Slab (acquired taste?)
- V4: Headbanger on RHS (not recorded as boulder problem)
- E2: Miserable Miracle
- V5: Torture Garden
- V6: The Prince
In reply to sutty:
Tried to choose outside the popular end but (mainly) failed:
VD Heaven Crack
S Balcony Buttress
HS Manchester Buttress
VS Narrow Buttress
HVS Right Unconquerable
E1 Tippler
Tried to choose outside the popular end but (mainly) failed:
VD Heaven Crack
S Balcony Buttress
HS Manchester Buttress
VS Narrow Buttress
HVS Right Unconquerable
E1 Tippler
In reply to pasbury:
VD Heaven Crack
S Balcony Buttress
HS Manchester Buttress
VS Mississippi Buttress
HVS Right Unconquerable
E1 Left Unconquerable
E2 Daydreamer
E3 Quietus
E4 Old Friends (or Calvary)
Mick
P.S. There must be a really good Diff somewhere, though can't think of it right now.
> (In reply to sutty)
>
Good list. Would amend it slightly:>
VD Heaven Crack
S Balcony Buttress
HS Manchester Buttress
VS Mississippi Buttress
HVS Right Unconquerable
E1 Left Unconquerable
E2 Daydreamer
E3 Quietus
E4 Old Friends (or Calvary)
Mick
P.S. There must be a really good Diff somewhere, though can't think of it right now.
In reply to Mick Ward:
Narrow Buttress is pretty crap (good climbing but it's only centimeters from the decent route for 1/3 of it). Mississippi Buttress is another of my least favourite classic VSs - the climbing just isn't nice and it peters out at the top. For classic Popular End VS, Hargreave's Original surely kicks the arse off all the others.
Narrow Buttress is pretty crap (good climbing but it's only centimeters from the decent route for 1/3 of it). Mississippi Buttress is another of my least favourite classic VSs - the climbing just isn't nice and it peters out at the top. For classic Popular End VS, Hargreave's Original surely kicks the arse off all the others.
In reply to sutty:
Central Trinity VS 4c I think it could be re-named something like, "Reluctant Masochist's Crack"!) great stuff
> Big crag with over a thousand routes. Which are your favourites, and unsung gems?
Central Trinity VS 4c I think it could be re-named something like, "Reluctant Masochist's Crack"!) great stuff
In reply to Paul Troon:
I had an epic on that. Got one of the spare nuts on my krab stuck in the first crack while placing gear before the traverse, then spent about 20 minutes getting it out. I then did all the "hard" bits in a temper, before getting wedged in the offwidth crack at the top.
> (In reply to sutty)
> [...]
>
> Central Trinity VS 4c I think it could be re-named something like, "Reluctant Masochist's Crack"!) great stuff
> [...]
>
> Central Trinity VS 4c I think it could be re-named something like, "Reluctant Masochist's Crack"!) great stuff
I had an epic on that. Got one of the spare nuts on my krab stuck in the first crack while placing gear before the traverse, then spent about 20 minutes getting it out. I then did all the "hard" bits in a temper, before getting wedged in the offwidth crack at the top.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Totally agree. It's my favourite route, period. Can't think how I missed it. (Another!) senior moment?
Mick
> (In reply to Mick Ward)
>
> For classic Popular End VS, Hargreave's Original surely kicks the arse off all the others.
>
> For classic Popular End VS, Hargreave's Original surely kicks the arse off all the others.
Totally agree. It's my favourite route, period. Can't think how I missed it. (Another!) senior moment?
Mick
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Well I really enjoyed it
What is the decent route? the direct? The route finds a nice way weaving between the aretes and then you have to str..eeech for the massive jug at the end. Big fun.
Louisiana rib is another unsung classic.
Well I really enjoyed it
What is the decent route? the direct? The route finds a nice way weaving between the aretes and then you have to str..eeech for the massive jug at the end. Big fun.
Louisiana rib is another unsung classic.
In reply to sutty:
The Ariel VD
Holly Bush Gully Right D
Robin Hood's Crack HVD
Suzanne HVS
Green Traverse V6
Jerry's Finish V5
Though to be honest it's Stanage so everything's good.
The Ariel VD
Holly Bush Gully Right D
Robin Hood's Crack HVD
Suzanne HVS
Green Traverse V6
Jerry's Finish V5
Though to be honest it's Stanage so everything's good.
In reply to sutty:
Sutty, if you'd said 'in the Peak', you'd have got the same lists.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> John, I put the thread up to see if anyone moved away from the popular end, and so far it seems not many.
>
> John, I put the thread up to see if anyone moved away from the popular end, and so far it seems not many.
Sutty, if you'd said 'in the Peak', you'd have got the same lists.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
HVS: KitKat (but it's more like Severe), yeh right, severe leaders should be romping up it daily.
HVS: KitKat (but it's more like Severe), yeh right, severe leaders should be romping up it daily.
In reply to Jon Stewart: I agree Bell End is a really good V1 - it's a shame it's not much longer really.
Anyway, personal favourites that I've done, and I've not done Right Unconquerable or the Link yet or I'm sure they'd both be on here.
M: Castle Chimney
D: October Crack
VD; Capstone Chimney, Plantation, great squeeze at the top
S: Twisting Crack
HS: Manchester Buttress
VS: Tricky choice but Hargreaves has it really
HVS: Even trickier choice Good Friday is my current favourite though
E1: Cinturato
E2: Wall End Slab Direct
E3: Only done one so can't comment really.
V1: Bell End
V2: Crescent Arete
V3: Pebble arete RH
V4: Pebbledash
V5: Thin slab
Anyway, personal favourites that I've done, and I've not done Right Unconquerable or the Link yet or I'm sure they'd both be on here.
M: Castle Chimney
D: October Crack
VD; Capstone Chimney, Plantation, great squeeze at the top
S: Twisting Crack
HS: Manchester Buttress
VS: Tricky choice but Hargreaves has it really
HVS: Even trickier choice Good Friday is my current favourite though
E1: Cinturato
E2: Wall End Slab Direct
E3: Only done one so can't comment really.
V1: Bell End
V2: Crescent Arete
V3: Pebble arete RH
V4: Pebbledash
V5: Thin slab
In reply to sutty:
Difficult when the grades change over the years!
So I can post 2 lists using 60s/70s grades and 'modern' grades:
60s/70s grades
Moderate - Grotto Slab
Diff - ?
VDiff - Jitter Face
HVD - Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct
Severe - Christmas Crack
HS - Manchester Buttress
VS- Goliath's Groove
HVS - Congo Corner
E1 - ?
Now grades:
Moderate -
Diff - Black Hawk Traverse Right
VDiff - Heaven Crack
HVD - The Pinion
Severe - Crack & Corner
HS - Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct
VS - Mississipi Buttress Direct
HVS - Right Unconquerable
E1 - Left Unconquerable
Difficult when the grades change over the years!
So I can post 2 lists using 60s/70s grades and 'modern' grades:
60s/70s grades
Moderate - Grotto Slab
Diff - ?
VDiff - Jitter Face
HVD - Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct
Severe - Christmas Crack
HS - Manchester Buttress
VS- Goliath's Groove
HVS - Congo Corner
E1 - ?
Now grades:
Moderate -
Diff - Black Hawk Traverse Right
VDiff - Heaven Crack
HVD - The Pinion
Severe - Crack & Corner
HS - Robin Hood's Right Hand Buttress Direct
VS - Mississipi Buttress Direct
HVS - Right Unconquerable
E1 - Left Unconquerable
In reply to jon:
Probably if he'd said 'Europe'!
> (In reply to sutty)
> [...]
>
> Sutty, if you'd said 'in the Peak', you'd have got the same lists.
> [...]
>
> Sutty, if you'd said 'in the Peak', you'd have got the same lists.
Probably if he'd said 'Europe'!
In reply to sutty:
Easy- High neb gully
Mod- Square Chimney
Dif- Uno Crack
VDiff- Hollybush crack
HVD- Crack and corner
S- Eric's Eliminate
HS-April Crack
VS-Right Unconquerable
HVS-Left Unconquerable
E1-Missisippi varienat direct
E2-Tower Face direct
Easy- High neb gully
Mod- Square Chimney
Dif- Uno Crack
VDiff- Hollybush crack
HVD- Crack and corner
S- Eric's Eliminate
HS-April Crack
VS-Right Unconquerable
HVS-Left Unconquerable
E1-Missisippi varienat direct
E2-Tower Face direct
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
HS - Amazon Crack
VS - Martello Buttress
HVS - Pot Black
E1 - Tower Face Direct
E2 - Cinturato
HS - Amazon Crack
VS - Martello Buttress
HVS - Pot Black
E1 - Tower Face Direct
E2 - Cinturato
In reply to Jon Stewart: Oooh, who'd have thought it some real grades there. Though I'd disagree with Martello Buttress being more than HS. Pot Black is not E2, neither is Tower Face Direct.
How about:
VS - Titanic
HVS - The Blurter
E1 - Millsom's Minion
E2 - The Count
E3 - Archangel
E4 - Calvary
E5 - White Wand
VS - Titanic
HVS - The Blurter
E1 - Millsom's Minion
E2 - The Count
E3 - Archangel
E4 - Calvary
E5 - White Wand
In reply to sutty:
VDiff - Heaven Crack. Lovely flowing climbing. One of the best on grit.
Severe - not as much quality as at the other grades IMHO, but Bishop's Route and Balcony Buttress are both superb
HS - so many to choose from with really strong lines, and Im only thinking of the popualr end. I'll plump for RHRHBD.
VS - High Neb Buttress. Bit of a personal choice as I somehow managed to have a massive wobbler on this, messing up the gear, after wanting to do it for ages (its actually very well protected with cams).
HVS - Stanage is brilliant at HVS, its the best grade there. But my favorite lesser-sung gem is Good Friday, which only gets 2* but I think is superb. So so much better than Ellis' Eliminate!
E1 - Again there are loads, but the cluster around Mississippi Buttress is a particularly good day's outing and I'm going to go for The Link. Better than FBD in my opinion - more sustained climbing.
E2 - I think of the ones Ive done I would go for Wuthering. I think Quietus might eclipse it if I ever get on it though.
VDiff - Heaven Crack. Lovely flowing climbing. One of the best on grit.
Severe - not as much quality as at the other grades IMHO, but Bishop's Route and Balcony Buttress are both superb
HS - so many to choose from with really strong lines, and Im only thinking of the popualr end. I'll plump for RHRHBD.
VS - High Neb Buttress. Bit of a personal choice as I somehow managed to have a massive wobbler on this, messing up the gear, after wanting to do it for ages (its actually very well protected with cams).
HVS - Stanage is brilliant at HVS, its the best grade there. But my favorite lesser-sung gem is Good Friday, which only gets 2* but I think is superb. So so much better than Ellis' Eliminate!
E1 - Again there are loads, but the cluster around Mississippi Buttress is a particularly good day's outing and I'm going to go for The Link. Better than FBD in my opinion - more sustained climbing.
E2 - I think of the ones Ive done I would go for Wuthering. I think Quietus might eclipse it if I ever get on it though.
In reply to sutty:
PS have also done loads all over the crag and there are some really good routes around like titanic, anniversary arete and some on counts buttress - but most of the real best are on the popular end, if you ignore the crowds, hence my choices.
PS have also done loads all over the crag and there are some really good routes around like titanic, anniversary arete and some on counts buttress - but most of the real best are on the popular end, if you ignore the crowds, hence my choices.
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