UKC

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last weeks (212) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=454215

Repeat posters – 40

AJM – Hope you’re enjoying France
Kevster – Enjoy Font
TonyB – See above
karen87 – Any progress is good progress
andy – Did you make 3:15 in the marathon?
Daniel Heath – Stick with it and you’ll hit your 72 target
biscuit – Sleep is good
Thickhead – How was the race?
Niels – Skiing and a first VS solo, can’t be bad
Mark Torrance – Some good mileage there
richardh – Well done on the RP
Sankey – Should be fine for the half
Murd – Did you get out bouldering?
agibb – Another lucky soul off to France
Mike Nolan – Good luck!
JSA – Hope exams were ok
Steve John B
Mi|es – Keep at it
grubes – Steady week
Shauna – Pembroke sound great
mattrm – Good that you’re back out running
Eagle River – How’s the finger?
chris05 – Sounds like solid progress
fimm – How was the tri?
Humperdink – Optimism is good!
Curious Yellow – Good that you got out at the weekend
Jeriqo – How’d the race go?
petestack – Some good mileage as ever
plexiglass_nick – Poor weeks happen every so often, you’ve made huge progress in last couple of years
andy farnell – Battered is good
The New NickB – You’ll get sub 19min soon
IainRUK – Have you got your arm back?
Nexonen – The sea will warm up soon (won’t it?!)
leon – Keep tuning the targets
Viking – You need a quiet week every now and then
Liam M – A couple of decent race times after a sold week’s training
seankenny – Hope you’re shot of the flu
ayuplass – Saturday sounds like a great day out
Stone_donkey – Keep ticking
JimmyKay – Psyched indeed! Cracking week.

Returners – 1
Goonie – Keep at it, motivation will return

Absentees – 1
catt – hope the finger is getting better

In reply to Steve John B:

Thanks very much for this Steve. I see I'm the first poster this week, that's what comes from missing a sunny day on the crags!

M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Warmed up then "on the minute"-ish training on problems up to V2. Did about 25 - 30 including repeats.
T: Nothing
F: Getting tattooed. Very tough session.
S: Very sore - I have a bruise extending from my chest to my leg! Cancelled planned trip to Portland.
S: Wall session, warmed up then 4x4 (V1, V1, V2, V0+ up and down). Approx 2m40s climbing time and 3mins 30s rest. Felt sweaty and tired but not completely shot by the end.

So pretty much rid of the flu this week, back to normal life. A couple of good training sessions, not 100% but decentenough. Unfortunately had to cancel my visit to Portland as I was beat up from a very bloody session on Friday - too bruised, battered and sore to wear a harness.

I have hopefully one more training session this week then head down to the Verdon on Friday. Very psyched! I won't post until the first week in May.

In reply to Steve John B:

Thanks Steve.

Unusual week, which has resulted in low mileage, more about that in a minute, but first to update my goals.

STG (End June): Sub 18:45 5k, current best of 19:04, sub 39 10k, current best of 39:24, some reasonable climbing mileage at VS and above.

MTG (End 2011): Sub 18:30 5k, sub 38 10k, sub 1:24 half marathon, current best of 1:28:06, classic Lakes AL fell race in a decent time.

LTG: (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon.

Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - Blacked out and taken to A&E, hypoglycemia but not sure why, decided to miss training.
Wednesday - Hilly 4 mile road race, was not sure if I should have been running, but felt good and ran 24:52 which I was really pleased with.
Thursday - Recce of Knowl Hill fell race.

In reply to The New NickB:

Submitted by accident.

Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Went to do Heaton parkrun, but was cancelled due to a burst water main on the course, climbed at Troy in the afternoon, struggling up a few VSs that I used to cruise up.
Sunday - 11 and a half miles in the hills, bit on the warm side.

In reply to Steve John B:

It definitly wasnt bad.
Always a first skiing in about 25*C though.

M: Tried sport climbing for the first time, it rained so we ended up going to kilnsey, got nothing done really (first time on limestone) but really physced for more sport.
T: Indoors at wall, mainly training PE with the view of doing more sport.
W: Same as Tuesday. But steep Bouldering at home too.
Th: Almscliff, mainly laps of Crucifix Traverse 1. for PE, but also managed "Dolphin Belly Slap", my first V6.
F: Same as Wednesday
S: Almscliff same as thursday really.
Su: Rest, short session at home.

<STG>

V6 Outdoors: TICK "Dolphin Belly Slap"
More Trad/Solo/Sport: Progress 1/3/1
VS Trad/Solo: Progress Trad None Solo Tick "the Nose" Almscliff

In reply to Steve John B:

Mon-Sat: rest
Sun: aimless undulating 9 mile run on tracks and country lanes near my parents house in hampshire. very pleasant, just followed every footpath sign i saw and hoped my sense of direction was ok.

Horrendous but not entirely unexpected DOMS Tues-Thurs from last Sunday's run. No actual injuries though.

In reply to Steve John B:

Monday: Nothing
Tuesday: Went for a run (13 mins)
Wed: Leading, did lotsa easy stuff but completely failed on a 6c+. need to climb more
Fri: Climbing: cleaned a 6c i'd done before but it was very sketchy
Weekend: Nothing

Basically I need to climb more. Unfortunately everyone's busy revising right now so it's hard :/

In reply to Steve John B:

Thanks Steve, well done for stepping up to the plate. Much appreciated.

STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 6lb

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Rest
T - Stretches and exercise (30 mins)
F - Rest
S - Stretches and exercise (20 mins)
S - Trad at Three Cliffs, another VS second

No running this week, don't want to hurt anything. Think I'll go out for an easy run next week. Might have lost a pound or two this week, but doubt it's much. Again, doing well during the week and then eating crap at the weekend. I've very definitely plateaued at the moment it seems. I'm not running etc enough to loose any weight, I'm not climbing enough (especially not hard stuff) to improve much with climbing. Got a VS second in at the crag today, tho, which is good. Had a decent days climbing, but I won't get out for a days climbing for the next few weeks as we've got the week off and we're going walking in the Lakes. I'm going to take a few lakesbloc topos and maybe get some bouldering in. Really not feeling very motivated at the moment. I'd really like to get up onto the harder stuff, but it's just seeming so far away at the moment.

In reply to Steve John B:
STG: VIR 60 points
MTG: ???
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.5
Focus: Hypertrophy 3/3

Mon: Core(331). Chest & Back(110)
Tue: Climbing at Aldery (max VS).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Repeaters(63). Core(329)
Fri: Chest & Back(213)
Sat: Climbing at Stanage (max HVS)
Sun: VIR(59).

Didn't plan this week very well. I've started climbing outside on Tuesday which means I should be training climbing specific on Monday (first mistake). Did a hard training session on Friday which left me knackered on Saturday (second mistake).

Tried climbing Desperation on Saturday. Made the mistake of worrying about how tenuous the fingerlock felt instead of working out how to do the move & so failed.

On the upside I learnt this week & the results I got on the VIR & fingerboard tell me I am the strongest I've ever been at the moment.

Next week I'm in Wales from Friday so I need to maxmimize climbing training on Monday & Thursday.

STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2
MGT: V1, V2, V2, V2

In reply to Steve John B:

thanks for standing in, well volunteered.

T: no wall trip, battered by work
Th: malham, conditions a bit dodgy to start so avoided my intended route. got on an old acquaintance - Tremelo - three laps, encouraging re: stamina, all three effort with one rest only - shame the rest is the crux.
Sun: Kilnsey - warm until sun went in then cold in the shade, warm up felt easier than usual, then three good goes with lots of repeat workings on Slabculture - felt much more positive than last year and good for an April Kilnsey opener - not the usual kicking.

all in all - a benchmarking week - and the benchmark is good, I think I'm at a fitness and strength level I'd usually associate with August, so the training seems to have paid off.

In reply to Steve John B: Cheers Steve.

Tues - Longridge. Finished off Big Marine, started on Delta Force
Wed - rest
Thurs - 40 mins fingerboarding
Fri - Lots of hedge trimming
Sat - a couple of hours at the Hangar. New walls are ace, the cave section is fab.
Sun - Kilnsey. Usual warm up then 3 goes on The Jekyll. Got all the moves sorted quickly and some good links. Should start redpointing next session. Forgot how steep the place is!

Andy F

In reply to Steve John B: Thanks Steve.

My week has been "dick about a bit then go to London and run a marathon".

So I did - flipping hard work, but ran 3:11 in the end. Good for age, so in next year and 2013, but feck it was hot out there.

In reply to andy:

Good run in the conditions. Been checking out loads of result today, club mates, people I race against regularly, nearly everyone is down on predictions and what I would expect from Purdy / Gardener.

In reply to Steve John B:

Thanks Steve.

This week has been a major up and down. Started out really strong and now stuck with a cold/flu thing. Anyway, the climbing was good so thats positive!

M - Rest
T - Fingerboard (repeaters) and repeated V2/V4 problems
W - Repeated V2/V4 problems and working a V4/V6
T - Top roped 5+/6a/6a+/6b (onsight) and 6b+ (redpoint)/Flashed two V2/V4 projects and repeated all previous V2/V4 problems (really good day!)
F - rest
S - rest (flu)
S - rest (flu)

In reply to Steve John B:
Thanks for the stand in John
An ok week, if only 3 sessions, did not get out to some bouldering, that may have to wait a week or 2 now. Monday was a home session, 2 hours, felt strong and really enjoyed it, did some core which I do most sessions recently, never felt I lacked strength in that area but it does seem to be making a difference. Thursday at the wall was good session, onsighted 7x 6b’s after warm ups, all seemed to flowing well and felt I could have done more, footwork seemed better than norm. Saturday another home session, steady stuff but also got on the fingerboard. Nowt Sunday but getting ready to head up to Wales early mon morning, Mrs Murd and her sprog going so won’t be taking a rope but hope to get and do some solo’s around VDiff range if I get the chance.

STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘

In reply to Steve John B:
Cheers Steve

STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+ outside
RP 6c or above indoors
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c outside

Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick

M: Rest
T: Rest
W: ROKT session. 2hr Nice session worked on problems all over
T: Crosland moor Quarry. 1hr 30 good 2hour session. What a shit crag the only thing worse than the venue was the quality of the rock
F: Rokt. 2hours. Finished some problems from wednesday.
S: Football Match. 1hr. Other team dint turn up so played 6 aside.
S: Wimberry. Good session Lead a HS and HVS. Soloed HS and 2nd Severe.

This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.

Ok week lots of climbing. 4 sessions got a hole in my finger which is healing slowly

In reply to Steve John B:

How do I follow that week up?

I'm completely messed up now. I don't really know what I want from climbing anymore...

Goals and grades don't really seem like they mean much anymore.

Font is so so good. What a magical place. Altho it has probably ruined climbing in the UK for me... It's all shit over here in comparison...

Had a rest week to try and rest the skin and elbows. So nothing major to report. Rubicon on wednesday so hope to get on some short bouldery routes.

In reply to JimmyKay:

I've been to El Chorro and Font. Which have been the best climbing I've experienced. Pembroke is the only thing that has come close. I have Ceuse, Buoux, Frankenjura and possibly Magic Wood to come...

In reply to JimmyKay:
I guess the answer is ditch the UK and move to spain or france?

In reply to Steve John B:

Thanks Steve!

Didn't get so much done this week - too many things getting in the way. So I think I want to try to run when I can't swim since I could do that any day.

M - Nothing
T - Swim
W - Nothing
T - Swim
F - Nothing (beer festival!)
S - Nothing
S - Sea swimming. Went in at Bournemouth thinking I'd only do 100m and ended up doing 2km! I was the only person swimming there, but plenty of people on the beach! Sea was warmer than in Cornwall probably because it was flat calm and shallow.

In reply to Steve John B:

Thanks for stepping in Steve.

Finger is still a bit tender which means I've not done anything hard for about three weeks now. I'm a bit worried about losing strength/fitness! Need to be more disciplined with the cold water treatment as I've not been doing it enough.

Tues: trad - first E1 onsight of the summer which was fine, followed by a complete loss of head on another E1 and poor rest of evening. Stupid trad.
Thurs: trad - another E1 onsight (although I've done harder VS routes than that particular E1 - First Finale at Anglezarke) and some easier stuff
Sat: Earned myself some climbing karma by taking a friend who had only climbed indoors previously out on some real rock for the day.

So, a very easy week physically but I'm getting more confident with gear again which is useful. Probably the same this week with the hope of being able to pull hard again next week.

In reply to grubes:

That's what i am doing and it feels good ;0)

In reply to Steve John B: Cheers for stepping up and for the comments.

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/B

M: core (500)
T: bouldering at the churnet, managed a 6B and a 6C in a couple of tries each
W: core (500)
T: bouldering at Notts wall
F: nothing + pub
S: nothing
S: bouldering at Notts wall

No training this week but did manage to get climbing three times which is good for me. Noticing the difference in my climbing from recent training which is nice..

The next couple of weeks are likely to be a bit mixed with a trip to surf in Wales (surf permitting) and visiting family.

In reply to Steve John B:
Thank you for starting the thread this week.
Tri was fine, see below.

M: 1h20 run as 9:1 run:walk. About 13km.
Tu: cycled to work 26km into a headwind so 1h13. Cycled home again by a longer route (36km) but now had a tailwind so averaged 27.9km/h and got home in 1h17 - it was great!
W: swam 4000m as 4x1000m. Took about 1h40 including rests so 1h30 for the Ironman swim seems a reasonable estimate.
Th: took the TT bike out for another wobble for an hour or so. Getting more confident, but decided to race on my road bike on Sunday. 4 km run-off.
F: rest
Sa: 4km, 20 minute pre-race loosener.
Su: Galasheils Sprint Triathlon. 1h18 as roughly 15 min swim, 40 min bike, 20 min run. Happy with that - it will all be PBs because I haven't raced a sprint for nearly 2 years! Run must have been short as there's no way I could come near to 20 mins over a hilly 5k fresh, let alone off the bike.
In the afternoon cycled 30km with the bloke, which was lovely at the time but I'm now really sore and tired.

Well done on the 3:11 andy.

In reply to The New NickB: Apart from the winner...2:04..awesome run..

Well done Andy, Like Nick most I knew were slightly down, but well done Thickhead, he got his sub 3..

m: 10 miles 1700m ascent, guided run over Glyders 3000ers
t: 6.5 miles 1000m ascent, guided run over Snowdon 3000ers
w: 800m rep test, first lap 65s, second 78s...very poor, but was having blood taken pre and post testing. Then hospital for arm. Arm almost healed, now have removable splint and removeable cast for another 5 weeks.
t: lunch: 4 x 1 mile reps in 5:25-5:30. pm: 5 mile run 400m ascent Cefn Du
f: 6 mile fell run 500m ascent foel goch
s: am: 7 miles, 800m ascent, guided run up Moel Siabod. pm: nav work. eve: 6 mile 500m ascent guided run up Foel Goch
s: 12 miles, 1250m ascent guided fell run in Carneddau

Off to Mallorca for running, cycling and climbing holiday this week, bt will now just be running..

In reply to Steve John B:


Well done for stepping in!

STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)

Mon: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
Tue: rest
Wed: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
Thu: rest
Fri: Bouldered at Castle - did about 4 x new V4's including a flash
Sat: rest/hungover
Sun: press-ups, bicep curls, sit-ups, leg raises

I managed to pull the finger oout a bit this week - nice to be bouldering around the V5 mark and I'm looking forward to getting away for easter! one session down the wall planned this week before 4 days in north Wales. Well excited!

In reply to IainRUK: Sub-3 yesterday is very good - i met up with a few Runners World forum people and most seemed to be 10mins or so slower than expected. Apart from one former fat lad who's dropped about 3 stone and ran 2:33!

In reply to andy: Thing is with London is it's too early..it's not really that warm as temperatures go but in April we just aren't acclimatised to heat so early in the year, so even 20 deg really hurts, as we've spent the last 6 months running in the cold and most will have avoided too much once it gets to April.

We have a few early season fell races around now and people always struggle, yet if the race been in August they'd have coped fine.

Mon-Fri - naff all
Sat - Ras y Moelwyn, not sure what position yet but ran 1:40, great conditions for it
Sun - nowt

In reply to Steve John B:

Thanks, Steve, but afraid I'll always be fitter than fast with a slightly disappointing Highlander (15th from 22 teams starting in A Class) at the weekend...

M: [58.3] Cardross to Stoneymollan, 8.5 miles/1,300 ft
T: [60.4] Tigh-na-sleubhaich, 7.9 miles/1,500 ft
W: [56.3] Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
T: [53.4] Allt a' Choire Odhair-mhoir, 6.6 miles/1,500 ft
F: [41.3] Rest
S: [52.6] Highlander Day 1, 24.0 miles/6,400 ft (see notes re. distance/ascent)
S: [68.2] Highlander Day 2, 15.6 miles/4,200 ft (see notes re. distance/ascent)

Note that the stats given for the Highlander are my quick/crude calculations of what we actually did rather than the optimum/nominal figures given by the planners, so our Saturday is well overlength (by about 3.5 miles etc.) after a disastrous early mistake but our Sunday not too bad. Now suffering from several mashed/bruised toenails (a regular problem with my truly weird feet), but thinking about getting the bike out for some rejuvenating cycling!

Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15th from 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)

In reply to Steve John B:

Cheers Steve. I think it's improving, and I'm being able to climb very carefully around it. Actually I'm finding it quite interesting as I'm really needing to change my technique, hold things differently and think more rather than just grab and pull. Hopefully a good thing in the long run!

By July 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship.

Just got lazy and missed the post last week so...

Week 212:

M - rest
T - Hangs @ Castle. Front2 pockets and easy slopers. Messed around with other stuff that didn't hurt.
W - Routes @ Castle. 7 routes to 6a+. Almost entirely vertical and big holds.
T - rest
F - rest
S - Routes @ Stanage. 10 routes to HVS. Brilliant day, lots of easy classics.
S - Hangs @ home; Pullups and front two hangs. 6km run

Week 213:

M - rest
T - Hangs @ Castle. Front2 pockets. Easy slopers and big open hand edge repeaters. Made up a crimpy circuit I can do on front two to save the injured digit.
W - Routes @ Castle. 7 routes to 6a+.
T - 7km run
F - rest
S - Routes @ Portland, Battleship. Some more work on Keyboard Wall. Found some new beta and simplified my sequence. 1 x TR on Bilboes 7a to see if it would hurt finger; it didn't.
S - Routes @ Portland, Battleship. Some more work on Keyboard Wall, further refined sequence and removed another hard move. Just need to be patient now and wait for my finger to be 100% so I can go full on at this. Did Bilboes first go on the day, finger survived with careful climbing. Eyed up Zinc Oxide Mountain. Super psyched to try this. Happy. Sun burnt. Finished with chips and ice cream on the beach.

In reply to Steve John B:

Race went very well thanks... Has been mentioned that I got my sub 3 - thought I had blown it at halfway as I was at 1:30:xx but blasted the 2nd half in 1:28 or so to finish in 2:58:05. Well pleased. I normally don't appear to do well in heat but didn't really find it too bad until I finished and was queueing for the bag. A lot of people were suffering though, a fair few collapses around the course.

M: 4mile trail/fell run Sychnant Pass
T: 6.5mile fell run up Drum from Bwlch
W: 10mile flat run at pace Abergele cycle path (7:00min mile)
T: 5mile fell run Bryn Blas Castle
F: 5mile trail/beach run Conwy
S: Rest
S: London Marathon

Need to think of moving on from here. Cut out the piss stop and that would save a minute

In reply to Thickhead: Brilliant negative split as well - nice one.

I was reasonably happy with being within 4 mins of a PB given the fact I'm heavier than I'd like and the weather, and perversely I'm more confident that on the right day with the right preparation (and a slightly smaller belly) sub-3 should be well within my capabilities - I was running sub-7 min miles to about 17 or 18 but then it all got a bit too sweaty so I just concentrated on the GFA time. What's also fairly satisfying is that when I thought I was having an absolute 'mare from 35-40km I was still averaging 8:15 pace - which compared to the last shed collapse I had at London is positively flying!

In reply to andy:

Cheers, was surprised with the split times. Its my second consecutive marathon that I've had a very modest first half followed by a great second. Seems to be my style to stick to - if I go off hard I'll blow up (see Rhayader 20 for example!).

You've done well, if you feel that you weren't prepared fully yet still managed that time in less than perfect conditions you definately have a good chance at sub 3hours. Maybe later in the year is better for you with summer training in the bag? (I always used to be best in September until I started more night running in the last couple of years).

How does it work now with GFA times? Just wait for the ballot to open again and apply the same as last year?

In reply to Thickhead: No, you've got to apply by July 15th for a special form. Don't think it's on the website yet but there was something in with the GFA entry this year.

I'm leaving marathons alone for a while I think as I've not much enjoyed this campaign (resulting in a fee visits from the Can Not Be Arsed Fairy), but I'll be back in 2013 for another bash.

In reply to Thickhead and Andy: Well done guys!!! Great work! It certainly felt hot just walking about nevermind running

In reply to Steve John B: Thanks Steve! well done for stepping in.

Goals:
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make team for National 12 Stage.
May: sub 33min 10K.
This weeks goal: Two decent sessions and plenty of mileage

Mon: am 32mins easy. Lunch physio exercises*. pm 8M off road steady in 53:38
Tue: Lunch weights* pm 8M off road in 51:52 windy! Ran this one too hard.
Wed: Lunch physio exercises. pm 2M warm-up then 4M tempo in 21:38, 2min jog then 11mins (including a mile in 5:24), 1/2M cool down. Really happy with this! The 4 mile loop is really up and down so was glad to keep up the pace on the 11min effort. Starting to feel like I’m getting stronger and endurance is getting better so I can run “fast” for further.
Thurs: am 32mins easy. Lunch physio exercises. pm 8M steady in 55:03 felt flat/tired. Massage - which wasn’t as bad as I feared.
Fri: Tired am ~14M in 1:37:51 feeling a bit creaky. Pm went to marathon expo and felt like a fraud!
Sat: am 3 x (3,4,5min) @ 10K,10M, ½mara pace off 60secs jog and 90secs jog between sets. Hard work but got it done. 9/10M total – warm.
Sun: Rest and some running about watching the marathon. Sadly things didn’t go to plan! G/f was on target until about mile 17 when the wheels totally fell off and she struggled in 10mins down on her time from last year Obviously very disappointed – it made for very uncomfortable viewing

Total: ~67M
Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.

Happy with my training – time for a easier week next week. Gutted for g/f after Sunday.

In reply to Steve John B:
Cheers for stepping in Steve... and yes good to get out last weekend, first sandstone trip of the year Counting down to Malham on Friday now...

Mon - 30 mins bodyweight workout, fingerboard.
Tues - Arch. 4x V3, 3x V4.
Wedns - 30 mins bodyweight workout. Castle. 1x V3. Leg hurting and pretty tired.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - 30 mins bodyweight workout. Fingerboard.
Sat - Castle. 7x V3, working V4s and blues.
Sun - Arch. 2x V3, working a desperate V4. 30 mins bodyweight workout. Fingerboard - good session.

In reply to Steve John B: I'd like to come back to fit club again as I seem to have re found some motivation

Short term goal - get back to running 10k's every week
Mid term goal - lose a stone in weight and onsight 6b indoors, start redpointing some sport stuff outdoors.
Long term goal - um, not sure about this one. Just try to keep up the fitness I build from running etc and maintain it over the summer so I'm fit for the Alps and fit as fiddle for next winter. Oh, lead lots of IV's over next winter.

Mon - Didn't do anything as I had just run my first run in ages the day before. I've been really struggling with breathlessness over the winter due to unknown causes but probs something to do with my sinuses. Anyhoo, on antibiotics and finally managed to do a short run where I didn't feel like I had to stop and die after not even a mile. So had ran (well, jogged)3.63 miles at an average pace of 9mins 49 secs per mile. Was at the wall also but quite tired and only led a few easy things at F5 and F5+

Tue - Ran 4 miles hilly off road at an average pace of 9mins 45 secs. Played on my woody for an hour, just doing laps and making a new route.

Wed - Wall again. Decided to start bouldering again, managing to onsight a few V1's and one V2 (soft!)

Thurs - Ran a steep and hilly 3 miles, average pace 10mins 35secs per mile.

Fri - nothing

Sat - nothing

Sun - went up to Cairgnorm to Ciste M..........(can't spell it!) and spent the day practising crevasse rescue stuff which involved lots of pulling and hauling.

Lost 1.5kg this week

In reply to Steve John B:
Thanks steve! Pembroke was indeed great - I've had a week of low motivation following on from it...

M - recovery
T - work
W - edge. Hurt elbows as nothing easy enough to warm up on was free. Still did about 15 routes
T - foundry. About 20 routes to 6b. Elbows tweaking but not too bad
F - rest
Sat - easy day at Millstone - led one HVS
Sun - cheedale. Everything felt v hard and my elbows were playing up. Gave up and belayed. Tedious.

All in all a bit of a frustrating weekend. Especially after such a good one last week. Feeling more motivated and going to start on the wrist curls to try to limit elbow issues!

In reply to andy: Good going. Watching friends results tick in almost made me desire to do another road marathon before long.

Cheers Steve:

Mon: Nothing (intended to swim until I discovered pool was closed)
Tue: 53k cycle, fairly flat route, and pushed hard for first 60-70mins, covering about 30-35k in that time.
Wed: Steady 12k run, pushed on the one climb, and for last 3-4k.
Thu: Hill sprints, 10 x c200m 10% incline
Fri: Nothing
Sat: 18k cycle to/from Hyde Park park run, 5k run, fast for first 2.5k (c4min/km), eased off a little for second half when stomach cramped up. 27k slightly lumpy cycle in afternoon.
Sun: 11k run up Sharp Haw from Skipton

Low mileage week for the running, partly due to needing to rest from couple of tougher weeks before, and partly due to feeling a strong urge to be on the bike. Having never spent time somewhere with decent lengths of properly flat roads before, I decided to see how I'd cope with trying to hold a steady pace for a sustained period cycling on Tuesday. Suprised myself actually by managing to hold 30kph+ for most of the first hour or so. When I manage to know the roads well enough to not have to stop to check signposts all the time, it could be interesting to see how long I can sustain such an effort.

Fairly light couple of weeks coming up as I taper for the 3 Peaks. I'll probably do the new Roundhay Park park run this Saturday, but as it's so far from a fast course probably not push to hard, and Guiseley Gallop, but again taken steadily. Hopefully that will leave me springy when it counts, in a couple of weeks.

In reply to Steve John B:

Thanks Steve,

Getting outside rules. Didn't climb anything hard in font, tried a few suggested 7a's. I am not strong enough! Eg Tout de cul de chien - horizontal monos. However, I did do well on the low grade stuff. Nearly all reds & blues I tried I did without too much work/flashed. Did a number of white/blacks too. Onsited several 6's which is positive.

Shame I missed TonyB.

Other positive things - skin lasted so maybe technique is OK. Stamina was fine as didn't get pumped hardly at all.

Sun afternoon: suprise bouldering at fairlop
mon
tues: indoors, bouldered - took it easy after niggled finger (which was OK)
wed
thur: Font
fri: Font
sat: Font
sun: Font

Next week is probably Wales,

Have fun all, Cheers, Kev

In reply to Steve John B:

One other thing, I'm on holiday next week, so probably won't get to post. Walking in the Lake District for a week. Should be nice.

In reply to Steve John B:

Andy, Thickhead - inspiring. Well done.

M - AM 4.5 mile road run flat. pm 3.5 mile road run minor hill.
T -
W -
T - 10 miles road run Lochranza to Sannox and back - pace (except downhill)
F - 5ish miles off road run (clockwise round coast from Lochranza)
S - 10 miles road run anticlockwise round coast from Lochranza, mainly flat, pace
S - 20 miles road run anticlockwise round coast from Lochranza. Marathon pace plus about 10s.

Something is definitely not quite right when you spend a week on Arran and nearly all the running is on roads. Long run (and shorter runs) in racing shoes this week, as a bit of an experiment. All seemed to go well.

Now tapering. If this, and stretching etc, miraculously sorts out glute / hamstring / abductor / general lopsidedness problems I might even manage a vaguely ok time.

In reply to Mark Torrance: Which marathon are you doing, mark?

In reply to andy:

"Shakespeare" (Stratford-on-Avon) in three weeks.

In reply to Steve John B:
Cheers sjb
Mon - nowt
Tues - Leeds wall bouldering - created some exercises and routines from climbstrong instead of 'just climbing' . Found 'easy traverse into hard problem's particularly hard. Joined in with a guy who showed me the moves for some v3s - ticked 3 after 4/5 goes. Felt battered after!
Wed - rest. Tired
Thurs - Leeds wall routes. Still sore from Tues. Had blood test in morning which left me with a shocking bruise, swelling and a dead, sore arm - not a good start. TR - 4+ x3, 5+ x2 and 6a x1. Glad I seem to be able to still get up 6as again
Fri - nowt
Sat & Sun - hedge trimming, car cleaning and domestic chores : (

Enjoyed my proper training plan on Tuesday - shame it left me knackered! Not much done this week, away last weekend and this weekend so needed to catch up on domestic stuff

In reply to Steve John B:

A week of kayaking with the military. Slightly sore groin and shoulders but not particularly physical. Erratic week in terms of other phys.

M-close arm press ups hard session
T-
W-hard hill walk 3 mile
wide arm press ups moderate session
T-
F-
S-tank push and log run. Short but intense
S-Some close arm press ups

Cheers,
Dan

In reply to Steve John B:

Hi Steve thanks for covering, been a week of highs and real lows!

Anyway back to logging!

Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River

Week 15 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.

So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...

and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...

GOALS:
Short: end Apr
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight, (V8 done), (7c+ RP done)

Medium: May
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors

Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)

Summary:
LAST WEEK:
Rest and test PHASE:
Exactly what it says on the tin rest lots no supplementary training and try and send projects etc.
Week started well with 7c+ RP at Harlow though it may only be 7c it did feel technical and took maybe 5 to 6 goes to work it out, last move was nearly a heart breaker!
Wednesdasy went to ME and flashed a 7a felt easy so think something is coming through now. Psyched
Disaster!!: woke up on Thurasday with my bank starting to twinge and progressively got worse through the day! by next morning was struggling to walk. Booked physio etc and doing some exercises by Sunday a bit of improvement but not where I need to be. This sucks! Muscle imbalance causing the issue.

Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.

This Weeks Goals:
Lots of rest and get back sorted.

Weight: 75.5kg

Cheers

Gordon

In reply to Steve John B:

Nearly forgot to post this week.

Last week was a bit disjointed but disciplined enough to get my morning runs in, dumbell complexesand core done most days.

Biggest news was a good session at Keswick wall where my finger suddenly seems to be OK to use. Not fully but i got up a couple of 7a's so all is not lost.

Had a better week this week but that's for tomorrow's thread.

In reply to Goonie:

Figured some pretty sweet beta out on the Bullworker Crux, so if your struggling to get it let me know and I'll pass it on!

In reply to JimmyKay:

It's funny but I am ok with the crux slap though I would be interested on hearing your method I have only had 2 goes on it both when tired so this week hopefully will have a go when fresh and see where I am! I actually find the next series of moves fluffable, also going to get on Threadbare at Torbryan done the top section starting up mayday but not done the right hand start so see how that feels also goinggo hopefully get on the cider soak. As you can guess my back is feeling better!!

Cheers

Gordon