This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (217) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=458886
Posters - 38
AJM
Miles - repeating easy problems for strength gains? If you mean CIR type work then they should be pretty hard problems shouldn't they?
Murd - good work on your new project - any more progress yet?
The New NickB - hope this week has been more productive for you
andy - steady rebuilding week - have you got a new goal to aim for yet?
Daniel Heath - hope the shoulder is on the mend
Sankey - good to be getting back on trad - I really need to do that, otherwise I'll forget what those strange cam things are for!
Sonya Mc - nice one on the 6b! Sounds like the potential is there on the 6b+ too..
karen87 - rest week
Jeriqo - shame when work gets in the way isn't it
Elwood - why do you say that it will be a long time before you can do the Old Man? From the look of your other goals it looks very doable (if you're at 6a onsight and flashing 6A regularly, you're more than strong/fit enough - is it getting there, or the trad aspect, or what?).
petestack - nice work on pushing the mileage back up on Sunday. Hope you don't feel put off Fit Club by last week's discusions - in a collection of individuals there's always going to be a wide spectrum of views on any issue, so I wouldn't feel like "the climbers want the runners to leave" or anything like that
richardh - sounds very very busy at Kilnsey then....
Mark Torrance - I reckon the recovery will have done you good...
Steve John B - hope the physio visit was productive, and that psyche returns
leon - rest weeks are good
viking - sounds like a good trip in terms of making progress, even if the hard ticks proved elusive. Nice work on the 6A flash though
seankenny - congrats on the new job - will the travel be to anywhere exotic?
mattrm - thanks for that Ogmore info, much appreciated. Will try and check it out sometime
grubes - did you manage to push the trad at all? Probably a bit late now, but I've been told Concrete Chimney (or Concrete Dream, linking the start of CC into the last pitch of DoWH) is the best route at that grade on that slab.
TonyB - your project sounds hard, but looking at the breakdowns of the moves you can do and things it does look like you could be close, just need that one perfect set and it will go down - your plan for woking on the low percentage moves sounds like a good way to go
plexiglass_nick - you are right about Power Club, thats why I don't really bother to dual-post
chris05 - sounds like you've at least got a decent plan for the shoulder/elbow/knee. Teasing us with the comments about this week's session though
fimm - good to hear you're getting settled a bit more with the bike. Sounds like a pretty good week all round
Humperdink - sad to see you go - good luck with your goals and hopefully we'll see you back in the future in either a climbing or running focused phase
Eric the Red - thats a good level to have broken - nice one!
IainRUK - shame about the travel messing with the training, I've been feeling that a lot over the past few weeks too
Thickhead - I don't think the majority were in favour of you not posting. Personally, whilst I don't "get" running personally, I think seeing how much more structured training can be (as Iain said, I think the runners are in general better at this) at least gives me a prod towards trying to improve my own training efficiency
Kevster - sounds like you had a pretty good day at Torbryan - nice one on the 7a+ in particular
Liam M - thats a long way away to leave your keys!
Curious Yellow - you getting plastic psyche back yet?
JimmyKay - certainly looks like the attitude to training you've brought into climbing has really helped - thats good 2 year progress by most standards
Shauna - hope it picks up soon.....
Stone_Donkey - sounds like a bad session, but at least you've got learning points to take away from it
Niels - did you get out after exams?
catt - good to see you getting the big 8 officially on the goal list!
biscuit - do you know what went wrong with the Malham routes - just a lack of rock time or something? Sounds like a lot of inspiring people to be around anyway
Goonie - sounds like a really productive Devon weekend, nice one!
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (217) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=458886
Posters - 38
AJM
Miles - repeating easy problems for strength gains? If you mean CIR type work then they should be pretty hard problems shouldn't they?
Murd - good work on your new project - any more progress yet?
The New NickB - hope this week has been more productive for you
andy - steady rebuilding week - have you got a new goal to aim for yet?
Daniel Heath - hope the shoulder is on the mend
Sankey - good to be getting back on trad - I really need to do that, otherwise I'll forget what those strange cam things are for!
Sonya Mc - nice one on the 6b! Sounds like the potential is there on the 6b+ too..
karen87 - rest week
Jeriqo - shame when work gets in the way isn't it
Elwood - why do you say that it will be a long time before you can do the Old Man? From the look of your other goals it looks very doable (if you're at 6a onsight and flashing 6A regularly, you're more than strong/fit enough - is it getting there, or the trad aspect, or what?).
petestack - nice work on pushing the mileage back up on Sunday. Hope you don't feel put off Fit Club by last week's discusions - in a collection of individuals there's always going to be a wide spectrum of views on any issue, so I wouldn't feel like "the climbers want the runners to leave" or anything like that
richardh - sounds very very busy at Kilnsey then....
Mark Torrance - I reckon the recovery will have done you good...
Steve John B - hope the physio visit was productive, and that psyche returns
leon - rest weeks are good
viking - sounds like a good trip in terms of making progress, even if the hard ticks proved elusive. Nice work on the 6A flash though
seankenny - congrats on the new job - will the travel be to anywhere exotic?
mattrm - thanks for that Ogmore info, much appreciated. Will try and check it out sometime
grubes - did you manage to push the trad at all? Probably a bit late now, but I've been told Concrete Chimney (or Concrete Dream, linking the start of CC into the last pitch of DoWH) is the best route at that grade on that slab.
TonyB - your project sounds hard, but looking at the breakdowns of the moves you can do and things it does look like you could be close, just need that one perfect set and it will go down - your plan for woking on the low percentage moves sounds like a good way to go
plexiglass_nick - you are right about Power Club, thats why I don't really bother to dual-post
chris05 - sounds like you've at least got a decent plan for the shoulder/elbow/knee. Teasing us with the comments about this week's session though
fimm - good to hear you're getting settled a bit more with the bike. Sounds like a pretty good week all round
Humperdink - sad to see you go - good luck with your goals and hopefully we'll see you back in the future in either a climbing or running focused phase
Eric the Red - thats a good level to have broken - nice one!
IainRUK - shame about the travel messing with the training, I've been feeling that a lot over the past few weeks too
Thickhead - I don't think the majority were in favour of you not posting. Personally, whilst I don't "get" running personally, I think seeing how much more structured training can be (as Iain said, I think the runners are in general better at this) at least gives me a prod towards trying to improve my own training efficiency
Kevster - sounds like you had a pretty good day at Torbryan - nice one on the 7a+ in particular
Liam M - thats a long way away to leave your keys!
Curious Yellow - you getting plastic psyche back yet?
JimmyKay - certainly looks like the attitude to training you've brought into climbing has really helped - thats good 2 year progress by most standards
Shauna - hope it picks up soon.....
Stone_Donkey - sounds like a bad session, but at least you've got learning points to take away from it
Niels - did you get out after exams?
catt - good to see you getting the big 8 officially on the goal list!
biscuit - do you know what went wrong with the Malham routes - just a lack of rock time or something? Sounds like a lot of inspiring people to be around anyway
Goonie - sounds like a really productive Devon weekend, nice one!
In reply to AJM: Probably depends on your definition of easy and hard. By easy I mean I shouldn't be failing until the very end of a session.
Pretty bad week in terms of climbing, only 1 and a half weeks til exams are over and I can start climbing properly again.
Monday: Core stuff/pressups etc. Decided to see how much I could beat my previous best plank time (3:09) and managed 5 minutes before deciding to stop (target for next time will probably be 6 mins which will be hard).
Thursday: Had a spare hour so ended up doing a short session of footless bouldering.
Goals: Survive until 1st of June and then once exams are over, try to do around 5 sessions a week for the following month in the hope of getting fit quick for Bulgaria.
Pretty bad week in terms of climbing, only 1 and a half weeks til exams are over and I can start climbing properly again.
Monday: Core stuff/pressups etc. Decided to see how much I could beat my previous best plank time (3:09) and managed 5 minutes before deciding to stop (target for next time will probably be 6 mins which will be hard).
Thursday: Had a spare hour so ended up doing a short session of footless bouldering.
Goals: Survive until 1st of June and then once exams are over, try to do around 5 sessions a week for the following month in the hope of getting fit quick for Bulgaria.
In reply to Mi|es:
Cheers Andy.
A soft week of climbing, but the week's work got me to the point that top roping 6b was hard work. All that haulin must have done something for my arms.
Mon:
Tues: Setting all day
Wed: Setting all day
Thur: Setting all day.
Fri:
Sat: Portland: Tried to clear up some unfinished business. RP Haute Cuisine- tick, tried RP but ended up worked "want out" as totally forgot both cruxes from last year, which was a shame! So no tick, tried the annual repeat of Mindmeld seems to have lost a foot hold and is harder I think than before - back to 7a+? Good day though.
Sun:
Next week - in Orpiere in france bolt clipping for 5 days, so the rest of the week, trying to save the skin.
Goals:
Short term - consolidate mid 7's by getting at least 1x7 a day.
Mid term - tick a 7c/+
Long term - aim for 8a
Thanks all, and ta for the feedback Andy.
Cheers Andy.
A soft week of climbing, but the week's work got me to the point that top roping 6b was hard work. All that haulin must have done something for my arms.
Mon:
Tues: Setting all day
Wed: Setting all day
Thur: Setting all day.
Fri:
Sat: Portland: Tried to clear up some unfinished business. RP Haute Cuisine- tick, tried RP but ended up worked "want out" as totally forgot both cruxes from last year, which was a shame! So no tick, tried the annual repeat of Mindmeld seems to have lost a foot hold and is harder I think than before - back to 7a+? Good day though.
Sun:
Next week - in Orpiere in france bolt clipping for 5 days, so the rest of the week, trying to save the skin.
Goals:
Short term - consolidate mid 7's by getting at least 1x7 a day.
Mid term - tick a 7c/+
Long term - aim for 8a
Thanks all, and ta for the feedback Andy.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, I do think Molotovin Cocktail is hard. I've been there with a number of people now and only one other has been able to make all the moves and I haven't seen anyone come close to linking it yet. But having broken it down so meticulously I can track my progress. I think I'll wait for a cool day to get back on it (I need all the help I can get).
This week was a bit disappointing due to not ticking many goals, but reasonably satisfactory in other ways. Social commitments meant that I only got three climbing days and bad weather meant that two of them were indoors. So no wonder, I couldn't make both the bouldering and the route goals.
Mon - indoor bouldering and roped climbing. Enjoyable bouldering completely ignoring the grades. Rope climbing: 2x 6c onsights and failed at a 7a.
Thur - mammoth indoor bouldering session. I spent a lot of time with friends making up problems on the 45o board. It was pretty good to go back to my usual wall and test my strength in a familiar setting. I seem to be strong in crimps but other aspects of my climbing have perhaps dropped off after mostly climbing outside. I think I'll try and get one indoor session per week.
Sat - Roped climbing at Angelniemi. I managed to redpoint a 7b. It's the first time that I've climbed a 7b with only one day working on it, so I'm pretty pleased with it and it's a good route to put in the pyramid.
2011 goals in Finland
7c pyramid -- (0/1 7c, 1/2 7b+, 2/4 7b, 5/8 7a+)
Possible candidates
7c - Purple Haze
7b+ - Molotovin Cocktail
7b – Babyface (7b/7b+), Minotaurus, Riistiripunta, Matchbox
7a+ Paha Paha Portsari, Echinaforce, Muuvijumpa
20 x Font 6C/6C+ (in Finland this season) -- 6/20
10x Font 7A/7A+ problems (in Finland this season) -- 2/10
Font 7B problem -- not yet
Winter trip to Kalymnos (try to break into 7c+/8a)
STG (by end of May)
1 7A/7A+ and 2x 6C/6C+ problems per week!
RP 1 more route in the 7c pyramid
June – July
Complete all the 7a+ and 7b routes in the pyramid
3 x 7A/7A+ problems, 6x 6C/6C+ problems
Aug – Oct
7b+ and 7c redpoints
2x 7A/7A+, 4x 6C/6C+ and 1x 7B
Thanks Andy, I do think Molotovin Cocktail is hard. I've been there with a number of people now and only one other has been able to make all the moves and I haven't seen anyone come close to linking it yet. But having broken it down so meticulously I can track my progress. I think I'll wait for a cool day to get back on it (I need all the help I can get).
This week was a bit disappointing due to not ticking many goals, but reasonably satisfactory in other ways. Social commitments meant that I only got three climbing days and bad weather meant that two of them were indoors. So no wonder, I couldn't make both the bouldering and the route goals.
Mon - indoor bouldering and roped climbing. Enjoyable bouldering completely ignoring the grades. Rope climbing: 2x 6c onsights and failed at a 7a.
Thur - mammoth indoor bouldering session. I spent a lot of time with friends making up problems on the 45o board. It was pretty good to go back to my usual wall and test my strength in a familiar setting. I seem to be strong in crimps but other aspects of my climbing have perhaps dropped off after mostly climbing outside. I think I'll try and get one indoor session per week.
Sat - Roped climbing at Angelniemi. I managed to redpoint a 7b. It's the first time that I've climbed a 7b with only one day working on it, so I'm pretty pleased with it and it's a good route to put in the pyramid.
2011 goals in Finland
7c pyramid -- (0/1 7c, 1/2 7b+, 2/4 7b, 5/8 7a+)
Possible candidates
7c - Purple Haze
7b+ - Molotovin Cocktail
7b – Babyface (7b/7b+), Minotaurus, Riistiripunta, Matchbox
7a+ Paha Paha Portsari, Echinaforce, Muuvijumpa
20 x Font 6C/6C+ (in Finland this season) -- 6/20
10x Font 7A/7A+ problems (in Finland this season) -- 2/10
Font 7B problem -- not yet
Winter trip to Kalymnos (try to break into 7c+/8a)
STG (by end of May)
1 7A/7A+ and 2x 6C/6C+ problems per week!
RP 1 more route in the 7c pyramid
June – July
Complete all the 7a+ and 7b routes in the pyramid
3 x 7A/7A+ problems, 6x 6C/6C+ problems
Aug – Oct
7b+ and 7c redpoints
2x 7A/7A+, 4x 6C/6C+ and 1x 7B
Yes it is annoying but hoping to maintain a min 30 miles/week whilst working shifts, apart from this week lol..........
Mon - 6 mile trail run
Tue-Fri - nothing busy with work and little sleep
Sat - 10 miler on hilly trails
Sun - 8 mile fell run
Mon - 6 mile trail run
Tue-Fri - nothing busy with work and little sleep
Sat - 10 miler on hilly trails
Sun - 8 mile fell run
In reply to AJM: Cheers. Target-wise it's probably to get some weight off through cycling in the summer, then build the running up again in the autumn before a proper go at the 3Peaks next April.
Bit of a nothing week but due to work rather than CNBA.
M: decent run - 6m with the middle 4 in 6:30 or quicker
T-S - travelling and working
S: short but steep fell run - 3.75m
Bit of a nothing week but due to work rather than CNBA.
M: decent run - 6m with the middle 4 in 6:30 or quicker
T-S - travelling and working
S: short but steep fell run - 3.75m
In reply to AJM: Thanks. Think the 6b+ will be a while as I got into trouble for toproping it this week as it's overhanging and I only had the lower off clipped in and the clip below for safety. Tried to lead it but just wasn't ready and got all annoyed and too stressed Tried to lead it later once I'd sorted my head and managed to lead it cleanly to the 3rd clip. I can make the next 2moves just fine but then I'm left trying to clip the 4th clip on an okay hold (but overhanging) and it's off balance with my toe hooked onto a small foothold to hold myself on. Last clip is at my feet and I just bottle it and grab a jug off another hold as I'll end up taking a massive fall if I screw it up and will probs be not far off hitting the deck (though it's totally safe, I'm just being a wimp!) If I can get that clip, then the next move is the crux. Off 2 okay holds but a really dynamic move onto an okay but smaller hold, clip off that. Then up to a positive crimp, up to an okay pinch, then another dynamic move for the good hold by the lower off. Not sure I've got the steam to get it clean on lead but will keep trying.
Anyway, other than that,
Mon - Wall. This was when the above happened.
Tue - 8 mile run. Average pace 9mins 37secs. Could have done better but I ran the first 3miles at around 9mins and that's too fast for me for my long run and I had to run all of the 4th mile up hill and it utterly gubbed me especially as it was really clammy that day too. So the 4th mile was really slow. Then I took a wrong turn and my Garmin beeped at me, so had to turn about and figure out where to go. Then got ran at by a farm dog so had to stop running. Back was seizing up by the end of it and hasn't released yet, Chiro appointment next week.
Tue evening - had a few folk round to christen our climbing wall in the garage. I didn't do too much though as couldn't get warmed up properly (too many folk in such a small space to get any proper mileage in) But got my V2 again and nearly got a new V3 sloper problem and another different V3.
Wed - Wall in the evening. Warmed up, then perhaps managed to onsight my first 6b. I say perhaps, because I felt it was a bit soft. But it's on the only line on the lead wall that isn't overhanging so perhaps I found it easier because of that. But if it doesn't get downgraded, then woop woop! That's one of my goals ticked off
Thurs - Did some intervals. 200m fast (for me) with 30secs of rest x4. Then rest for 4mins and do again. Managed 2.5 sets this week, so 1/2 a set up. Over all, all the reps were on average faster. But I had to take some painkillers to manage it due to my back still feeling seized up. After pushing it today and the day before, now have twinges of sciatica as well as a seized up back Really need that appointment!
Fri - Took a rest from running. Feeling quite sore now and miserable. Been eating lots of crap to cheer myself up (such a stupid thing to do, but can't seem to resist!) Went to wall in evening and tried to boulder. Managed a new V1 on the 30 degree wall and a few vertical V2s. Tried a couple of V2's on the slightly overhanging wall (um, around 20 I think) but couldn't do either of them. I swear the bouldering grades at my wall are getting harder! Still feeling fed up.
Sat - Hill weather looked grim and couldn't be bothered with slogging through rain so organised to go for my first trad session this year at probably one of the only dry areas in Scotland today! Well, only managed 5 routes before it started raining, but still, it was soooooooooooooooooo good to be climbing again. I'm feeling pretty fit for the Alps now so I might just get out on the hill every 2nd weekend so I can squeeze in some more climbing. Led a V.Diff to see if I could remember how to place gear it's been so long! Seconded a VS, led 2x HS's and seconded an HVS. All clean so felt good enough to lead a VS, then it started raining so we bailed
Sun - Done naff all today. Feeling lazy. On the plus side my back is easing off a little.
Put on 1.2kg in weight this week due to all the rubbish I've eaten. Why is it so hard and such a struggle to lose weight, but I eat the slightest bit of cake or chocolate etc and I put weight on, ggrrrrrrrr!
Anyway, other than that,
Mon - Wall. This was when the above happened.
Tue - 8 mile run. Average pace 9mins 37secs. Could have done better but I ran the first 3miles at around 9mins and that's too fast for me for my long run and I had to run all of the 4th mile up hill and it utterly gubbed me especially as it was really clammy that day too. So the 4th mile was really slow. Then I took a wrong turn and my Garmin beeped at me, so had to turn about and figure out where to go. Then got ran at by a farm dog so had to stop running. Back was seizing up by the end of it and hasn't released yet, Chiro appointment next week.
Tue evening - had a few folk round to christen our climbing wall in the garage. I didn't do too much though as couldn't get warmed up properly (too many folk in such a small space to get any proper mileage in) But got my V2 again and nearly got a new V3 sloper problem and another different V3.
Wed - Wall in the evening. Warmed up, then perhaps managed to onsight my first 6b. I say perhaps, because I felt it was a bit soft. But it's on the only line on the lead wall that isn't overhanging so perhaps I found it easier because of that. But if it doesn't get downgraded, then woop woop! That's one of my goals ticked off
Thurs - Did some intervals. 200m fast (for me) with 30secs of rest x4. Then rest for 4mins and do again. Managed 2.5 sets this week, so 1/2 a set up. Over all, all the reps were on average faster. But I had to take some painkillers to manage it due to my back still feeling seized up. After pushing it today and the day before, now have twinges of sciatica as well as a seized up back Really need that appointment!
Fri - Took a rest from running. Feeling quite sore now and miserable. Been eating lots of crap to cheer myself up (such a stupid thing to do, but can't seem to resist!) Went to wall in evening and tried to boulder. Managed a new V1 on the 30 degree wall and a few vertical V2s. Tried a couple of V2's on the slightly overhanging wall (um, around 20 I think) but couldn't do either of them. I swear the bouldering grades at my wall are getting harder! Still feeling fed up.
Sat - Hill weather looked grim and couldn't be bothered with slogging through rain so organised to go for my first trad session this year at probably one of the only dry areas in Scotland today! Well, only managed 5 routes before it started raining, but still, it was soooooooooooooooooo good to be climbing again. I'm feeling pretty fit for the Alps now so I might just get out on the hill every 2nd weekend so I can squeeze in some more climbing. Led a V.Diff to see if I could remember how to place gear it's been so long! Seconded a VS, led 2x HS's and seconded an HVS. All clean so felt good enough to lead a VS, then it started raining so we bailed
Sun - Done naff all today. Feeling lazy. On the plus side my back is easing off a little.
Put on 1.2kg in weight this week due to all the rubbish I've eaten. Why is it so hard and such a struggle to lose weight, but I eat the slightest bit of cake or chocolate etc and I put weight on, ggrrrrrrrr!
In reply to AJM:
M-
T-
W- speed interval session
T-
F- intervals. 15 x 400m about 1:20 speed. fairly long session
S-
S- logged my first "instructor day" taking friends out.
Set up a releasable abseil and a toprope. It was great to consolidate skills learnt on a recent course.
Then bagged an E1 5c solo which is an indication of a better shoulder!
M-
T-
W- speed interval session
T-
F- intervals. 15 x 400m about 1:20 speed. fairly long session
S-
S- logged my first "instructor day" taking friends out.
Set up a releasable abseil and a toprope. It was great to consolidate skills learnt on a recent course.
Then bagged an E1 5c solo which is an indication of a better shoulder!
In reply to Daniel Heath:
My medium term goal is to run well at the Chester Marathon in October, ideally under 3 hours. Shorter term, looking at improving my speed over 5 and 10k. I have let a big of weight creep back on over the last month, so I also need to lose that and get below 70kg again, currently around 73kg.
M - 10 miles at 8 minute pace on an a hilly road circuit.
T - 5 miles at 7 minute pace on a hilly road circuit.
W - Rest.
T - 5k race, 19/110, 19:09. Not feeling at my best, but OK result.
F - Rest.
S - 5k race, 17/210, 19:13. Tight calves struggled, just didn't flow, but OK result.
S - Planned to do 10 mile in the fells, but spend the day looking for my car keys.
My medium term goal is to run well at the Chester Marathon in October, ideally under 3 hours. Shorter term, looking at improving my speed over 5 and 10k. I have let a big of weight creep back on over the last month, so I also need to lose that and get below 70kg again, currently around 73kg.
M - 10 miles at 8 minute pace on an a hilly road circuit.
T - 5 miles at 7 minute pace on a hilly road circuit.
W - Rest.
T - 5k race, 19/110, 19:09. Not feeling at my best, but OK result.
F - Rest.
S - 5k race, 17/210, 19:13. Tight calves struggled, just didn't flow, but OK result.
S - Planned to do 10 mile in the fells, but spend the day looking for my car keys.
In reply to AJM:
Hi there, good to have you back doing Fit Club (no insult meant to the sterling chaps who did it in the meantime of course).
M - Sat: Sweet bugger all.
Sun: Afternoon at Bowles. Did two 5a's, 5b, 5c and a 6a - Hate, which I've only done once before and found dead hard. So a nice little afternoon out.
Didn't do much of note for most of this week as I was very tired - did a course last weekend so had a full 12 days of tube travel into central London. Also my arm still hurt, tho it has been getting much better. Thought I'd go out for a little play on the southern sandstone today and had quite a good day out. I can still pull on holds, a bit.
Not expecting much in the way of training this week as busy with work and other things. Should be at the Roaches for the long weekend.
As for the job - I work for an aid agency and my new role covers Asia, so hopefully will do a few trips to India and the like. Fairly exotic I think
In the gap between jobs I'll have a week off - anybody fancy meeting up and doing some climbing?
Hi there, good to have you back doing Fit Club (no insult meant to the sterling chaps who did it in the meantime of course).
M - Sat: Sweet bugger all.
Sun: Afternoon at Bowles. Did two 5a's, 5b, 5c and a 6a - Hate, which I've only done once before and found dead hard. So a nice little afternoon out.
Didn't do much of note for most of this week as I was very tired - did a course last weekend so had a full 12 days of tube travel into central London. Also my arm still hurt, tho it has been getting much better. Thought I'd go out for a little play on the southern sandstone today and had quite a good day out. I can still pull on holds, a bit.
Not expecting much in the way of training this week as busy with work and other things. Should be at the Roaches for the long weekend.
As for the job - I work for an aid agency and my new role covers Asia, so hopefully will do a few trips to India and the like. Fairly exotic I think
In the gap between jobs I'll have a week off - anybody fancy meeting up and doing some climbing?
In reply to AJM:
AJM, thanks for the stats. If you do check out Ogmore, give me a mail, I'll try and make it down, it'd be nice to meet a fellow fitclubber.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight TICK
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 1lb
M - Rest
T - 45 mins swim session
W - Rest
T - Stretches
F - Rest
S - Trad session (headpointed E2)
S - Rest
Had a great trad session yesterday. It was the club beginners meet and I was leading a relative beginner around the crag. Someone had setup a top rope on an E2. I gave it a go and did it first go. Everyone left apart from me and a few others, we stayed top-roping the E2 for a while. After my second go, I realised that I could definitely lead it. I've never headpointed a climb and never top-roped something hard before. It's a fairly crappy local crag (box bay in Porthcawl) so I didn't worry that I was blowing the onsight on a good route. I did a practice run placing gear on the top rope, got a bit of gear stuck, so left that there. Then thought, I might as well lead it. It was just a strenuous climb, loads of gear and nice big juggy holds. To be honest, I could have onsighted it. But there we go. Still it was great to headpoint it, shows me what I'm capable of. I'd been having a period of low motivation, so to do something quite hard was utterly great. Really psyched now. It's been such a great boost. I'm really keen to get back on some VS routes now, I think that the confidence from that will help me keep it together when onsighting routes like that, knowing that I can really climb quite a few grades harder than that if I want to.
In other news I've also lost a few pounds this week. Which is good. Just got to keep that up. All in all been a good week for me. Very happy. Nice to see a break through after lots of 'meh'ness.
AJM, thanks for the stats. If you do check out Ogmore, give me a mail, I'll try and make it down, it'd be nice to meet a fellow fitclubber.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight TICK
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 1lb
M - Rest
T - 45 mins swim session
W - Rest
T - Stretches
F - Rest
S - Trad session (headpointed E2)
S - Rest
Had a great trad session yesterday. It was the club beginners meet and I was leading a relative beginner around the crag. Someone had setup a top rope on an E2. I gave it a go and did it first go. Everyone left apart from me and a few others, we stayed top-roping the E2 for a while. After my second go, I realised that I could definitely lead it. I've never headpointed a climb and never top-roped something hard before. It's a fairly crappy local crag (box bay in Porthcawl) so I didn't worry that I was blowing the onsight on a good route. I did a practice run placing gear on the top rope, got a bit of gear stuck, so left that there. Then thought, I might as well lead it. It was just a strenuous climb, loads of gear and nice big juggy holds. To be honest, I could have onsighted it. But there we go. Still it was great to headpoint it, shows me what I'm capable of. I'd been having a period of low motivation, so to do something quite hard was utterly great. Really psyched now. It's been such a great boost. I'm really keen to get back on some VS routes now, I think that the confidence from that will help me keep it together when onsighting routes like that, knowing that I can really climb quite a few grades harder than that if I want to.
In other news I've also lost a few pounds this week. Which is good. Just got to keep that up. All in all been a good week for me. Very happy. Nice to see a break through after lots of 'meh'ness.
In reply to AJM:
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B Tick
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Holmfirth circuit. Absolutely spanked on upside down arete (V4). Spent 40 mins working it go no where.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Rokt. 3hoursRopes mainly laps on easy routes then working and climbing routes for 2 hours harder routes. 1 hour bouldering on the comp wall
S: Millstone. Spanked! could not commit to bond street or great portland street on lead. 2nd great portland street lead The mall onsight.
S: Yew Cogar. JSA was going and said I would belay him. I wanted to get the 6b+ done but it was soaked. So got straight on top roping cruising for a bruisin (7b) Truely awesome. Some of the best climbing I have ever done.
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
So not an overly successful week. Just got spanked several times but I got a propper training session in at least. The 3 hours at rokt was good I felt strong to start with then week by the end just what I wanted.
> grubes - did you manage to push the trad at all? Probably a bit late now, but I've been told Concrete Chimney (or Concrete Dream, linking the start of CC into the last pitch of DoWH) is the best route at that grade on that slab.
Cheers AJM had a bad week end really. Weather crapped out so did not go to gogarth. Got drunk then spanked at millstone with a hangover.STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B Tick
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Holmfirth circuit. Absolutely spanked on upside down arete (V4). Spent 40 mins working it go no where.
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Rokt. 3hoursRopes mainly laps on easy routes then working and climbing routes for 2 hours harder routes. 1 hour bouldering on the comp wall
S: Millstone. Spanked! could not commit to bond street or great portland street on lead. 2nd great portland street lead The mall onsight.
S: Yew Cogar. JSA was going and said I would belay him. I wanted to get the 6b+ done but it was soaked. So got straight on top roping cruising for a bruisin (7b) Truely awesome. Some of the best climbing I have ever done.
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
So not an overly successful week. Just got spanked several times but I got a propper training session in at least. The 3 hours at rokt was good I felt strong to start with then week by the end just what I wanted.
In reply to AJM:
2011 goals:
Rubble, 7c, Kilnsey; Serious Young Toads, 7c, Malham; Slabculture, 7b+, Kilnsey
Venues - get out to Chapel Head, Pen Trwyn, Llanymynech, Llanberis Slate
Get any four other 7b+ - an indicator of a sustained season rather than anything else
Periodise my training up to March, keep one fingerboard session in through the season
Stretch
---
This week
T: birthday, opted for beer and steak over climbing.
Th: Malham, first time back on Serious Young Toads since wall-inflicted injury last Sept. Good efforts, felt like all the moves were back dialled in by end of night, but fingers creaky - it's crimpy
Sun: Malham, dire conditions up to about 3pm, cleared up on way home!. Did Toads in two, climbed to the mid-height "rest" ( a two finger 'larger' hold ) and then did the redpoint crux move. very cold hands.
good, all in all, Toads initially felt miles off but now feels very close indeed.
2011 goals:
Rubble, 7c, Kilnsey; Serious Young Toads, 7c, Malham; Slabculture, 7b+, Kilnsey
> very close on slabculture - big whipper last week, and very close on Toads, hopefully soon. One painful try on rubble - felt miles off.
Venues - get out to Chapel Head, Pen Trwyn, Llanymynech, Llanberis Slate
> none yet.
Get any four other 7b+ - an indicator of a sustained season rather than anything else
> one other 7b+ so far, and much closer on another in one session at malham.
Periodise my training up to March, keep one fingerboard session in through the season
> managed three sessions a week with some variance in sessions but little macrostructure.
Stretch
> hoho, about three sessions.
---
This week
T: birthday, opted for beer and steak over climbing.
Th: Malham, first time back on Serious Young Toads since wall-inflicted injury last Sept. Good efforts, felt like all the moves were back dialled in by end of night, but fingers creaky - it's crimpy
Sun: Malham, dire conditions up to about 3pm, cleared up on way home!. Did Toads in two, climbed to the mid-height "rest" ( a two finger 'larger' hold ) and then did the redpoint crux move. very cold hands.
good, all in all, Toads initially felt miles off but now feels very close indeed.
In reply to mattrm:
> (In reply to AJM)
> S - Trad session (headpointed E2)
Well done Matt that is truely awesome. > S - Trad session (headpointed E2)
In reply to AJM:
Had a really good day on the grit yesterday. Infact, I had so much fun it started reminding me of font. Driving between a couple of different venues and walking round with boots and pads climbing some really good problems. Even had a chance to get a bit of sun bathing in at Higgar Tor when my friends were freezing their arses off climbing The File! haha.
I really have to recommend Rowtor Rocks. A very good venue with some very good problems. Good shelter on windy days as I found at yesterday.
M-Short training session. Warmed up by climbing 4 v6's on the roof one after the other. 5minute rest. Then onto campus boards. Small rungs 1,3,5 etc. Followed by PE training on the medium rungs. Managed to go up and down 3 times. Personal Goal so far. Going to get this to at least 5 times. Obviously I'm not training on the board too much to avoid injury. So far so good tho, I've seen massive gains in a short time period.
T-Rest
W-Llandudno. Finally manage Rock Atrocity. Huge mental block surpassed. Very happy. Climbed another v9, absolutely cruised a v8 on Pill box and bagged another v7.
T-Rest
F-Dinbren. Not a great day. Warmed up, although couldn't really stay warm as it was so cold and windy. I'd stupidly worn shorts as it was nice back in birmingham. Jumped on Elite Sync, which felt OK. Almost ready for the RP until a crucial hold I was using in my sequence snapped off. Gutted. It still goes my way but it's quite a lot harder. There is another way of doing it (the original method) but it's well lanky and doesn't use any of the funky drop knees that made the climb appealing in the first place. Oh well. So moved onto other things 1st RP of a short sharp 7b and then flashed a 7b+.
S-Peak Bouldering. Starting to turn into a big fan of Grit bouldering. Made me reminisce about font.
S-Rest
Very psyched for bouldering at the moment. Obviously it's down to the achievements I've had in it recently and the downers I've had in Sport. Hmm... I still have a lot of sport goals but I get a lot more enjoyment out of bouldering currently...
Had a really good day on the grit yesterday. Infact, I had so much fun it started reminding me of font. Driving between a couple of different venues and walking round with boots and pads climbing some really good problems. Even had a chance to get a bit of sun bathing in at Higgar Tor when my friends were freezing their arses off climbing The File! haha.
I really have to recommend Rowtor Rocks. A very good venue with some very good problems. Good shelter on windy days as I found at yesterday.
M-Short training session. Warmed up by climbing 4 v6's on the roof one after the other. 5minute rest. Then onto campus boards. Small rungs 1,3,5 etc. Followed by PE training on the medium rungs. Managed to go up and down 3 times. Personal Goal so far. Going to get this to at least 5 times. Obviously I'm not training on the board too much to avoid injury. So far so good tho, I've seen massive gains in a short time period.
T-Rest
W-Llandudno. Finally manage Rock Atrocity. Huge mental block surpassed. Very happy. Climbed another v9, absolutely cruised a v8 on Pill box and bagged another v7.
T-Rest
F-Dinbren. Not a great day. Warmed up, although couldn't really stay warm as it was so cold and windy. I'd stupidly worn shorts as it was nice back in birmingham. Jumped on Elite Sync, which felt OK. Almost ready for the RP until a crucial hold I was using in my sequence snapped off. Gutted. It still goes my way but it's quite a lot harder. There is another way of doing it (the original method) but it's well lanky and doesn't use any of the funky drop knees that made the climb appealing in the first place. Oh well. So moved onto other things 1st RP of a short sharp 7b and then flashed a 7b+.
S-Peak Bouldering. Starting to turn into a big fan of Grit bouldering. Made me reminisce about font.
S-Rest
Very psyched for bouldering at the moment. Obviously it's down to the achievements I've had in it recently and the downers I've had in Sport. Hmm... I still have a lot of sport goals but I get a lot more enjoyment out of bouldering currently...
In reply to AJM:
Indoor/training priorities
<STG> - pre-midsummer
<MTG> - 2011
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: Gym, bunch of cardio stuff
T: Nothing
W: Gym, some weights stuff. Tried some overhead squats too, which are simply nails - I have basically no flexibility!
T: Nothing. Fly home from Toronto.
F: Lots of walking round London
S: Drive to Scarborough. Wedding to attend.
S: Went and played old-school tourist on the slot machines on the seafront. Drove home.
Been a manic few weeks, looking forwards to things settling down and me being able to get into a steady routine. Weight is definitely up on when I got home from France, which is a shame but I suppose junkets to Canada don't happen every day! Going to focus on getting into a sensible eating routine, and getting some climbing in - hopefully Cheddar this week, my friend has a project in mind, and hopefully some other stuff midweek too, and fingers crossed a nice bank holiday weekend.
Indoor/training priorities
- Strength/power training
- Regular fingerboarding over the year
- Bike odometer record - can't remember
- Rolling average weight/body fat - don't know, only one weigh-in in the last week, so I'll wait til I get a few more before assessing how far back I've put my plans!
<STG> - pre-midsummer
- Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (currently completed 9/8 x 7a, 4/4 x 7a+, 1/2 x 7b, 0/1 x 7b+)
- Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape
<MTG> - 2011
- Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7a+, 1/4 x 7b, 0/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
- Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 3x 6c o/s, 5x 6c flash, 1x 6c+ o/s, 1x 7a flash)
- Actually do some DWS this year
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoint
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Gym, bunch of cardio stuff
T: Nothing
W: Gym, some weights stuff. Tried some overhead squats too, which are simply nails - I have basically no flexibility!
T: Nothing. Fly home from Toronto.
F: Lots of walking round London
S: Drive to Scarborough. Wedding to attend.
S: Went and played old-school tourist on the slot machines on the seafront. Drove home.
Been a manic few weeks, looking forwards to things settling down and me being able to get into a steady routine. Weight is definitely up on when I got home from France, which is a shame but I suppose junkets to Canada don't happen every day! Going to focus on getting into a sensible eating routine, and getting some climbing in - hopefully Cheddar this week, my friend has a project in mind, and hopefully some other stuff midweek too, and fingers crossed a nice bank holiday weekend.
In reply to AJM:
Hi Andy,
Back up in the world of the Normal after your trip?
Project has not got any further…cant repeat the 3rd move I did last week…don’t seem to be able to get anywhere near it, frustrating and baffling in equal measures, have linked all the other moves.
Ok week, was glad to get outside on Thursday, new venue to me, was keen to try my first climb at HVS 5a, this I did with a clean onsight but took me ages and did not feel as smooth as I would have liked, don’t think my head was in the right place on the day, should be happy that at least I increased my grade I guess. Need more mileage outdoors!
Trying, as of today, to give the roll ups…or least cut down to one or two a day…already chewing my fingers off!
Mon: Home bouldering, 2 hours
Tues: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Outdoor Trad
Fri: Rest
Sat: Home bouldering, 2hr 15
Sun: Home bouldering, 2 hours
Hi Andy,
Back up in the world of the Normal after your trip?
Project has not got any further…cant repeat the 3rd move I did last week…don’t seem to be able to get anywhere near it, frustrating and baffling in equal measures, have linked all the other moves.
Ok week, was glad to get outside on Thursday, new venue to me, was keen to try my first climb at HVS 5a, this I did with a clean onsight but took me ages and did not feel as smooth as I would have liked, don’t think my head was in the right place on the day, should be happy that at least I increased my grade I guess. Need more mileage outdoors!
Trying, as of today, to give the roll ups…or least cut down to one or two a day…already chewing my fingers off!
Mon: Home bouldering, 2 hours
Tues: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Outdoor Trad
Fri: Rest
Sat: Home bouldering, 2hr 15
Sun: Home bouldering, 2 hours
In reply to AJM:
Cheers... I don't particularly have any goals for running or climbing right now, have to get thinking!
Decentish week;
M: Nothing
T: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Beach/Woods
W: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Beach/Woods
T: 10.5 mile fell run Drum/Fras/Uchaf/Grach from Bwlch and back
F: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Mountain
S: 6mile trail run Conwy Beach/Woods
S: Lunchtime: 10mile road race Llandudno awful headwinds for 1.5-2miles at least prob 2-3mins off best pace as a result so reasonably happy with 62:52. Frustrating as this evening is calm and beautiful weather - perfect conditions!
PM 4.5mile trail run Conwy Woods.
Cheers... I don't particularly have any goals for running or climbing right now, have to get thinking!
Decentish week;
M: Nothing
T: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Beach/Woods
W: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Beach/Woods
T: 10.5 mile fell run Drum/Fras/Uchaf/Grach from Bwlch and back
F: 4.5mile trail run Conwy Mountain
S: 6mile trail run Conwy Beach/Woods
S: Lunchtime: 10mile road race Llandudno awful headwinds for 1.5-2miles at least prob 2-3mins off best pace as a result so reasonably happy with 62:52. Frustrating as this evening is calm and beautiful weather - perfect conditions!
PM 4.5mile trail run Conwy Woods.
In reply to AJM & grubes:
Thanks guys. I kinda think it's a bit soft for the grade and I did do it 4 times on a top rope before the lead. It's a route that played to my strengths, i.e. big holds, loads of gear, it's just that for a 12 meter route, it overhangs by about 2 meters, if not a littler more. Still it's great for the simple fact of showing me what I am capable of.
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
>
> [...]
>
> Effort!
>
>
> [...]
>
> Effort!
Thanks guys. I kinda think it's a bit soft for the grade and I did do it 4 times on a top rope before the lead. It's a route that played to my strengths, i.e. big holds, loads of gear, it's just that for a 12 meter route, it overhangs by about 2 meters, if not a littler more. Still it's great for the simple fact of showing me what I am capable of.
In reply to mattrm:
if the guide book says E2 its E2 take the grade and enjoy.
> (In reply to AJM & grubes)
> [...]
>
> Thanks guys. I kinda think it's a bit soft for the grade and I did do it 4 times on a top rope before the lead. It's a route that played to my strengths, i.e. big holds, loads of gear, it's just that for a 12 meter route, it overhangs by about 2 meters, if not a littler more. Still it's great for the simple fact of showing me what I am capable of.
> [...]
>
> Thanks guys. I kinda think it's a bit soft for the grade and I did do it 4 times on a top rope before the lead. It's a route that played to my strengths, i.e. big holds, loads of gear, it's just that for a 12 meter route, it overhangs by about 2 meters, if not a littler more. Still it's great for the simple fact of showing me what I am capable of.
if the guide book says E2 its E2 take the grade and enjoy.
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy.
M - physio. major inflexibility in right quad - physio stretched it out (which hurt). working on static and dynamic squats and a whole range of variations.
T - rest
W - rest
T - 3 miles / 300' run. squats, stretches
F - rest - achilles slightly sore
S - rest - achilles slightly sore
S - rest - achilles slightly sore
Going through a bit of a tough time at the moment - training is not a priority unfortunately.
M - physio. major inflexibility in right quad - physio stretched it out (which hurt). working on static and dynamic squats and a whole range of variations.
T - rest
W - rest
T - 3 miles / 300' run. squats, stretches
F - rest - achilles slightly sore
S - rest - achilles slightly sore
S - rest - achilles slightly sore
Going through a bit of a tough time at the moment - training is not a priority unfortunately.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. How was the trip to Canada?
Sorry for the immense post, a couple of people have expressed interest in the training plan, so sorry for the ramble, below is the 10 minute attempt to 'show my working' a bit with current training plan. Sorry for the spam - if I had a blog I would put it there, but I don't, so it is here.
STG
Redpoint 7c+
fill out 8a pyramid as much as possible over summer (5x7b+, 2x7c, 2x7c+) ticked: (3x7b+, 2x7c)
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 6x7a, 2+1x7a+)
MTG
Raindogs - Autumn 2011
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 10)
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Another slack week again with no update last week - sorry. Here are my last 2 weeks.
Week 216
M: Arch - low power. quite poor session. did about 5-7 v4s and a v5.
T: Arch - starting to get some power back. V5 in new room. Several v4s. Play on the board, set a 20 moveish circuit for PE.
W: push ups, wrist curls, reverse wrist curls. Bolton complex 6.5kg x2 - brutal. Beastmaker - 3x repeaters and 1x max hang
T: Castle - new circuit on wave emphasising big moves into high undercuts. 20 moves ish. 3x goes, reliably getting to move 15. Systems work - static/lock offs on undercuts. Density on mezz - v poor, 8 probs V1-V3 in 20 minutes! power fading on harder v3 and v4.
F: push ups. Bolton complex (6.kg x2) Beastmaker - 3x repeaters, 2x PE repeaters (12x(7on/5off)). Castle - spanked by new pen problems. Circuit - 3x goes. Aerocap (2x10m)
S: Arch - really good session, 3rd day on - wtf? 2x V5, 2xV4. Density - 17 probs v3-v4 (prob take a grade off that for Castle comparison) feeling pretty good.
S:
Week 217 - Proper training starting again this week
M: AAB Castle. Threshold Boulder (A) 30m - (poor quality). Campus touches (A). Systems board static undercut/lock offs (A) CIR (B) - feeling good and powered up. 3xv3,7xv4,1xv5, 4xblue(4/5). Frenchies (underarm)
T: BCC Castle. AnCap (B) 7x goes on beige v4 in pen, success 2/7. Density (C) - 10 probs v3-v4.
W:
T: Bolton Complex - 5kg x2 (1m rest). Beastmaker - 3x repeaters, 1x max hangs. Castle - ACC. powerful bouldering (A), Circuits (C)
F:
S: Malham. Consenting to warm up. Trying Last Toad on TR - got a sequence sorted and a fairly good link on 3rd go. Not super psyched for it, but should really get it done next trip up there.
S: Malham. Rose to warm up. Another day on Raindogs - tried new beta between the 3rd/4th bolts. Sorted a new (substantially easier) sequence which should raise overall percentage a hefty amount. Got some pretty good links - from the ground to setting up for the 'windmill' move, and from the end of that move (3rd bolt) to the top. Had first go on lead - just a bolt to bolt to break the ice. Still a long way to go but it feels do-able. Super psyched.
non linear periodised training plan
This is basically an attempt to solve the 'periodisation problem' - ie. the classic peaking periodisation plan is widely acknowledged to not be very suitable for climbers unless they are very focused on a single thing (eg. a competition or a big project) as most climbers want to be performing quite well at any point (eg. a surprise window of good conditions), over a long (6-9 month) season.
the rationale is that rather than following a periodised trend in any one training variable (eg. high volume/low intensity -> low volume/high intensity or vice versa) to rotate round all the key combinations of intensity/number of moves, in a single 2 week cycle. A single training day consists of a number of 'blocks' - ie. 30-60 minutes, with a single exercise generally aiming at the max number of moves you can do at a specific intensity, and either doing a number of sets to failure or using intervals or similar.
The main benefits in fact are that it is simple (ok it sounds complicated but most of that is trying to be systematic about hitting all the main zones on the strength/endurance spectrum. There are no long phases or uploading/unloading cycles, it is pretty much just making a timetable out of standard climbing-oriented exercises and getting straight down to business) and flexible (ie. blocks can be shuffled around ad hoc and can be fitted around weekend trips or adjusted according to current recovery), and while it has no peaking phase the upside is it hits all the main zones of strength/endurance (but skewed a bit toward power endurance), so in theory all are staying relatively high, which should in theory be more suitable for in-season training now I am aiming to be out every weekend.
a similar plan is here:
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2010/04/14/block-programming/
and the basic idea is discussed here:
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2011/01/06/call-it-what-you-want-periodize...
Key:
A - recruitment/power - 1-3 RM/2-6 moves - eg. short boulder problem.
B - strength - 4-6 RM/8-12 moves - long boulder problem.
C - hypertrophy/high intensity Anaerobic End. - 8-12RM/16-24 moves. - eg. short circuit
D - Mid intensity Anaerobic end - 12-15 RM, 24-30 moves - eg. medium circuit.
So per 2 week microcycle (initial and subject to tweaking):
A
4x Threshold Boulder (1-3 RM, 2-6 moves, V7-8, problems/attempts?? rest???)
B
2x CIR/Volume (3-5RM, 6-10 moves, V4-5, 15x problems, 4m rest)
2x Density (3-5RM, 6-10 moves, V2-4 (o/s), 12-20x problems, max probs in 20m)
3x AnCap (5-6RM, 10-12 moves, V4-6?, 10x problems, rest???)
C
6x 4x4s (12+RM, 4x6=24 moves, 4x sets, 2m rest) OR Circuits (10-15 RM, 20-30 moves, repeats?? rest???)
1x Volume
D
2x Aerocap/Recovery (indefinite, 50-100+ moves (10-15m), 2x sets, 10m rest)
Example:
Week 1 day 1 - Max Str/Power (AAB) - Threshold Boulder, Campus/pull ups/systems, CIR
Week 1 day 2 - Endurance (BCC) - AnCap, Circuits, Density
Week 1 day 3 - Active Rest day (D) - AeroCap
Week 1 day 4 - Mixed (ACC) - Threshould Boulder, Circuits, 4x4
Week 2 day 1 - Mixed (ABC) - Threshould Boulder, CIR, Density
Week 2 day 2 - Max Str/Power (AAB) - Threshould Boulder, Campus/pull ups/systems, CIR
Week 2 day 3 - Endurance (CCD) - Circuits, 4x4, Aerocap
Week 2 day 4 - Light endurance (CD) - Circuits, Aerocap
It's work in progress: I know the numbers don't quite add up, and I am being over-ambitious if I think I can fit in 4 training days AND weekends away, and also I need to factor in non-climbing training (ie. weights/fingerboard/core/etc) but all of that is subject to some tweaking when I have run through a couple of cycles. Comments welcome.
Cheers Andy. How was the trip to Canada?
Sorry for the immense post, a couple of people have expressed interest in the training plan, so sorry for the ramble, below is the 10 minute attempt to 'show my working' a bit with current training plan. Sorry for the spam - if I had a blog I would put it there, but I don't, so it is here.
STG
Redpoint 7c+
fill out 8a pyramid as much as possible over summer (5x7b+, 2x7c, 2x7c+) ticked: (3x7b+, 2x7c)
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 6x7a, 2+1x7a+)
MTG
Raindogs - Autumn 2011
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 10)
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Another slack week again with no update last week - sorry. Here are my last 2 weeks.
Week 216
M: Arch - low power. quite poor session. did about 5-7 v4s and a v5.
T: Arch - starting to get some power back. V5 in new room. Several v4s. Play on the board, set a 20 moveish circuit for PE.
W: push ups, wrist curls, reverse wrist curls. Bolton complex 6.5kg x2 - brutal. Beastmaker - 3x repeaters and 1x max hang
T: Castle - new circuit on wave emphasising big moves into high undercuts. 20 moves ish. 3x goes, reliably getting to move 15. Systems work - static/lock offs on undercuts. Density on mezz - v poor, 8 probs V1-V3 in 20 minutes! power fading on harder v3 and v4.
F: push ups. Bolton complex (6.kg x2) Beastmaker - 3x repeaters, 2x PE repeaters (12x(7on/5off)). Castle - spanked by new pen problems. Circuit - 3x goes. Aerocap (2x10m)
S: Arch - really good session, 3rd day on - wtf? 2x V5, 2xV4. Density - 17 probs v3-v4 (prob take a grade off that for Castle comparison) feeling pretty good.
S:
Week 217 - Proper training starting again this week
M: AAB Castle. Threshold Boulder (A) 30m - (poor quality). Campus touches (A). Systems board static undercut/lock offs (A) CIR (B) - feeling good and powered up. 3xv3,7xv4,1xv5, 4xblue(4/5). Frenchies (underarm)
T: BCC Castle. AnCap (B) 7x goes on beige v4 in pen, success 2/7. Density (C) - 10 probs v3-v4.
W:
T: Bolton Complex - 5kg x2 (1m rest). Beastmaker - 3x repeaters, 1x max hangs. Castle - ACC. powerful bouldering (A), Circuits (C)
F:
S: Malham. Consenting to warm up. Trying Last Toad on TR - got a sequence sorted and a fairly good link on 3rd go. Not super psyched for it, but should really get it done next trip up there.
S: Malham. Rose to warm up. Another day on Raindogs - tried new beta between the 3rd/4th bolts. Sorted a new (substantially easier) sequence which should raise overall percentage a hefty amount. Got some pretty good links - from the ground to setting up for the 'windmill' move, and from the end of that move (3rd bolt) to the top. Had first go on lead - just a bolt to bolt to break the ice. Still a long way to go but it feels do-able. Super psyched.
non linear periodised training plan
This is basically an attempt to solve the 'periodisation problem' - ie. the classic peaking periodisation plan is widely acknowledged to not be very suitable for climbers unless they are very focused on a single thing (eg. a competition or a big project) as most climbers want to be performing quite well at any point (eg. a surprise window of good conditions), over a long (6-9 month) season.
the rationale is that rather than following a periodised trend in any one training variable (eg. high volume/low intensity -> low volume/high intensity or vice versa) to rotate round all the key combinations of intensity/number of moves, in a single 2 week cycle. A single training day consists of a number of 'blocks' - ie. 30-60 minutes, with a single exercise generally aiming at the max number of moves you can do at a specific intensity, and either doing a number of sets to failure or using intervals or similar.
The main benefits in fact are that it is simple (ok it sounds complicated but most of that is trying to be systematic about hitting all the main zones on the strength/endurance spectrum. There are no long phases or uploading/unloading cycles, it is pretty much just making a timetable out of standard climbing-oriented exercises and getting straight down to business) and flexible (ie. blocks can be shuffled around ad hoc and can be fitted around weekend trips or adjusted according to current recovery), and while it has no peaking phase the upside is it hits all the main zones of strength/endurance (but skewed a bit toward power endurance), so in theory all are staying relatively high, which should in theory be more suitable for in-season training now I am aiming to be out every weekend.
a similar plan is here:
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2010/04/14/block-programming/
and the basic idea is discussed here:
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2011/01/06/call-it-what-you-want-periodize...
Key:
A - recruitment/power - 1-3 RM/2-6 moves - eg. short boulder problem.
B - strength - 4-6 RM/8-12 moves - long boulder problem.
C - hypertrophy/high intensity Anaerobic End. - 8-12RM/16-24 moves. - eg. short circuit
D - Mid intensity Anaerobic end - 12-15 RM, 24-30 moves - eg. medium circuit.
So per 2 week microcycle (initial and subject to tweaking):
A
4x Threshold Boulder (1-3 RM, 2-6 moves, V7-8, problems/attempts?? rest???)
B
2x CIR/Volume (3-5RM, 6-10 moves, V4-5, 15x problems, 4m rest)
2x Density (3-5RM, 6-10 moves, V2-4 (o/s), 12-20x problems, max probs in 20m)
3x AnCap (5-6RM, 10-12 moves, V4-6?, 10x problems, rest???)
C
6x 4x4s (12+RM, 4x6=24 moves, 4x sets, 2m rest) OR Circuits (10-15 RM, 20-30 moves, repeats?? rest???)
1x Volume
D
2x Aerocap/Recovery (indefinite, 50-100+ moves (10-15m), 2x sets, 10m rest)
Example:
Week 1 day 1 - Max Str/Power (AAB) - Threshold Boulder, Campus/pull ups/systems, CIR
Week 1 day 2 - Endurance (BCC) - AnCap, Circuits, Density
Week 1 day 3 - Active Rest day (D) - AeroCap
Week 1 day 4 - Mixed (ACC) - Threshould Boulder, Circuits, 4x4
Week 2 day 1 - Mixed (ABC) - Threshould Boulder, CIR, Density
Week 2 day 2 - Max Str/Power (AAB) - Threshould Boulder, Campus/pull ups/systems, CIR
Week 2 day 3 - Endurance (CCD) - Circuits, 4x4, Aerocap
Week 2 day 4 - Light endurance (CD) - Circuits, Aerocap
It's work in progress: I know the numbers don't quite add up, and I am being over-ambitious if I think I can fit in 4 training days AND weekends away, and also I need to factor in non-climbing training (ie. weights/fingerboard/core/etc) but all of that is subject to some tweaking when I have run through a couple of cycles. Comments welcome.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks, yeah i did, but not as much as i would have hoped
M: Exam then Bouldering at home
T: Exam then Bouldering at home
W: Exam then Bouldering at wall. couple of V6-V8 onsights.
T: Exam then Bouldering at wall. Got some more V6-V8's
F: Bouldering Home
S: Rest.
S: Kilnsey, Very busy. Tried "Smooth Torque" 7A+, got the crux start numerous times but always managed to get pumped on the jugs. Exactly the same with "Alternative Option" 7A+. Too much bouldering me thinks.
STG
Outside
V7
V6 O/S
HVS Lead
7a lead
Get stamina
Indoors
Get all the V8+'s at wall
Get stamina
> Niels - did you get out after exams?
Thanks, yeah i did, but not as much as i would have hoped
M: Exam then Bouldering at home
T: Exam then Bouldering at home
W: Exam then Bouldering at wall. couple of V6-V8 onsights.
T: Exam then Bouldering at wall. Got some more V6-V8's
F: Bouldering Home
S: Rest.
S: Kilnsey, Very busy. Tried "Smooth Torque" 7A+, got the crux start numerous times but always managed to get pumped on the jugs. Exactly the same with "Alternative Option" 7A+. Too much bouldering me thinks.
STG
Outside
V7
V6 O/S
HVS Lead
7a lead
Get stamina
Indoors
Get all the V8+'s at wall
Get stamina
In reply to Thickhead: yeah times seemed slow. well done though.
m: am: 3.1 mile fell run the horns. pm: 9 mile fell run moel Cynghorion.
t: hill reps session, 9.5 miles, 600m ascent.
w: Moel Eilio race route from nant, 12.5 miles, 1000m ascent.
t: lunch: 8 mile road run. pm: 6.5 mile 800m ascent fell run Cribau Tregalan.
f: 11.5 mile trail run. 400m ascent.
s: 7.5 mile trail run from Harrison's Rocks.
s: 4 mile road run
m: am: 3.1 mile fell run the horns. pm: 9 mile fell run moel Cynghorion.
t: hill reps session, 9.5 miles, 600m ascent.
w: Moel Eilio race route from nant, 12.5 miles, 1000m ascent.
t: lunch: 8 mile road run. pm: 6.5 mile 800m ascent fell run Cribau Tregalan.
f: 11.5 mile trail run. 400m ascent.
s: 7.5 mile trail run from Harrison's Rocks.
s: 4 mile road run
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Canada was fun, yeah. Had hoped to get out climbing, but weather didn't play ball. Still, Toronto is a nice town, definitely somewhere to think about if the opportunity arose for a secondment etc. There's climbing nearby although it's not near anywhere amazing - lots of opportunities for other sports though.
All I've got to do now is burn off the fat that the trip has added to me, and it'll all have been good. Pretty psyched for getting out climbing now though - my mate has expressed interest in a hard 7b+ at cheddar so maybe get stuck into that this week and get back into some trad this weekend.
Looks like a mentally detailed post on training - I'll have a detailed look later.
Canada was fun, yeah. Had hoped to get out climbing, but weather didn't play ball. Still, Toronto is a nice town, definitely somewhere to think about if the opportunity arose for a secondment etc. There's climbing nearby although it's not near anywhere amazing - lots of opportunities for other sports though.
All I've got to do now is burn off the fat that the trip has added to me, and it'll all have been good. Pretty psyched for getting out climbing now though - my mate has expressed interest in a hard 7b+ at cheddar so maybe get stuck into that this week and get back into some trad this weekend.
Looks like a mentally detailed post on training - I'll have a detailed look later.
In reply to AJM:
Back on it last week and getting into the swing of things again. Feeling stronger every week and really motivated at the moment to keep progressing.
M - Fingerboard session x1
T - Bouldering session - not very good as felt unwell, Fingerboard session x1
W - Canoeing for ~2 hours (Voluntary work)
T - Rest - Walk in the New Forest
F - Rest (work)
S - Rest (work)
S - Rest (work
Fingerboard session consists of:
10 Minutes in total - Beastmaker 1000
1. 3 pull ups on jugs
2. 4 finger 10s hang x2
3. 1 pull up on jugs + 2 finger 7s hang x2
4. 3 finger hang 10s
5. offset hang 1 jug and hard hold 10s x2
6. sloper 5s
7. leg raises x10
8. 4 finger 10s x2
9. 1 pull up
10. chosen hold dead hang until fail
Back on it last week and getting into the swing of things again. Feeling stronger every week and really motivated at the moment to keep progressing.
M - Fingerboard session x1
T - Bouldering session - not very good as felt unwell, Fingerboard session x1
W - Canoeing for ~2 hours (Voluntary work)
T - Rest - Walk in the New Forest
F - Rest (work)
S - Rest (work)
S - Rest (work
Fingerboard session consists of:
10 Minutes in total - Beastmaker 1000
1. 3 pull ups on jugs
2. 4 finger 10s hang x2
3. 1 pull up on jugs + 2 finger 7s hang x2
4. 3 finger hang 10s
5. offset hang 1 jug and hard hold 10s x2
6. sloper 5s
7. leg raises x10
8. 4 finger 10s x2
9. 1 pull up
10. chosen hold dead hang until fail
In reply to AJM:
STG: 2 * 30 mins ARC in a session.
MGT: At least 25 routes or 55 problems in a session (done).
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(0), 10*e1(2)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.6
Focus: Local endurace & technique
Mon: Pull-ups & push-ups(90).
Tue: Bouldering 55 problems V0-V6.
Wed: Core(334).
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V2,V3) (4,4,4,4), Repeaters(26)
Fri: Pull-ups & push-ups(93).
Sat: Core(343).
Sun: Sport (max 6b).
Reasonably good week, bagged the MTG & hit a PB on 4x4 training.
Need to get my arse in gear for the push & pull sessions. Give-up feeling sick every time. Thinking more sleep & a later lunch might be the answer.
Out climbing on Sunday. Top roped a 7a but needed a few rests to get up it. Need to make a point of leading more @ 6b+ & trying to lead some 6cs.
STG: 2 * 30 mins ARC in a session.
MGT: At least 25 routes or 55 problems in a session (done).
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(0), 10*e1(2)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.6
Focus: Local endurace & technique
Mon: Pull-ups & push-ups(90).
Tue: Bouldering 55 problems V0-V6.
Wed: Core(334).
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V2,V3) (4,4,4,4), Repeaters(26)
Fri: Pull-ups & push-ups(93).
Sat: Core(343).
Sun: Sport (max 6b).
Reasonably good week, bagged the MTG & hit a PB on 4x4 training.
Need to get my arse in gear for the push & pull sessions. Give-up feeling sick every time. Thinking more sleep & a later lunch might be the answer.
Out climbing on Sunday. Top roped a 7a but needed a few rests to get up it. Need to make a point of leading more @ 6b+ & trying to lead some 6cs.
In reply to AJM:
VSTG (This week): V4 pyramid (V1x4, V2x3, V3x2, V4x1, V3x2, V2x3, V1x4)
STG: V5 pyramid (end of June 2011)
MTG: V6 pyramid / V6 outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V7 outdoors (2011)
Cheers AJM!
Rested for the whole and decided to get more structured when going down the wall. I seem to have plateau'ed at V5 and although I don't seem to have trouble ticking them outdoors, I'm just not getting strong enough to tick at V6.
I've decided to start off with a bloddering pyramid, to try to improve my strength. This will be balanced with at least 1 CV / general conditioning session per week. Fingers crossed this'll push me a bit harder.
VSTG (This week): V4 pyramid (V1x4, V2x3, V3x2, V4x1, V3x2, V2x3, V1x4)
STG: V5 pyramid (end of June 2011)
MTG: V6 pyramid / V6 outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V7 outdoors (2011)
Cheers AJM!
Rested for the whole and decided to get more structured when going down the wall. I seem to have plateau'ed at V5 and although I don't seem to have trouble ticking them outdoors, I'm just not getting strong enough to tick at V6.
I've decided to start off with a bloddering pyramid, to try to improve my strength. This will be balanced with at least 1 CV / general conditioning session per week. Fingers crossed this'll push me a bit harder.
Cheers AJM, no teasing intended, it was just a half decent session for me - on plastic though so it doesn't count!
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again
M: core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, 3m run, BM: pull-ups and one arm locks, core (500) & theraband
W: nothing
T: nothing
F: 3m run & 3xDB complex
S: bouldering at the churnet
S: theraband
Bit of a rubbish week although i did manage a couple of short runs, which is progress. Good day out at the churnet on Sat, felt absolutely beasted on Sun even though I didn't do anything new. Must try harder this week.
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again
M: core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, 3m run, BM: pull-ups and one arm locks, core (500) & theraband
W: nothing
T: nothing
F: 3m run & 3xDB complex
S: bouldering at the churnet
S: theraband
Bit of a rubbish week although i did manage a couple of short runs, which is progress. Good day out at the churnet on Sat, felt absolutely beasted on Sun even though I didn't do anything new. Must try harder this week.
In reply to AJM:
Yep, plastic psyche slowly returning...
Mon – 30 mins bodyweight workout. Fingerboard.
Tues – Castle. 2x V3, 1x blue.
Wedns – Fingerboard.
Thurs – Castle. Mostly on wave, working light blue.
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Malham. One TR on Something Stupid (comfortable in 2 sections so on RP now) then fled in the face of the queues forming for Unjustified and The Groove! 2x TR on The Last Toad, all but one hard move, feels quite possible. Really now I just need to pick a 7b+ and get on with it!
Sun – Malham. Bit of a waste of a day. Failed to warm up… feeling physically rubbish and demotivated by the crap weather.
Hopefully Portland next weekend for 4 days. The plan is to get back on Holy Hand Grenade and Road Rage and see how they feel now I’m a bit stronger, plus picking new Cuttings and Blacknor projects.
Yep, plastic psyche slowly returning...
Mon – 30 mins bodyweight workout. Fingerboard.
Tues – Castle. 2x V3, 1x blue.
Wedns – Fingerboard.
Thurs – Castle. Mostly on wave, working light blue.
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Malham. One TR on Something Stupid (comfortable in 2 sections so on RP now) then fled in the face of the queues forming for Unjustified and The Groove! 2x TR on The Last Toad, all but one hard move, feels quite possible. Really now I just need to pick a 7b+ and get on with it!
Sun – Malham. Bit of a waste of a day. Failed to warm up… feeling physically rubbish and demotivated by the crap weather.
Hopefully Portland next weekend for 4 days. The plan is to get back on Holy Hand Grenade and Road Rage and see how they feel now I’m a bit stronger, plus picking new Cuttings and Blacknor projects.
In reply to AJM:
Lack of rock/rope time and not the place to climb with a dodgy finger so i wasn't exactly trying 100%. Still, a bad day out climbing is better than a good day working and all that.
Better week this week.
1 easy boulder session working on the technique pointers from coaching.
2 sessions at the bowderstone - and my finger feels OK. Hooray !
Still trying to be more dynamic and it seems to be working now. I managed to maintain momentum all the way up the highball Crack ( V4 ) so i am starting to be able to do it at a reasonable level and when scared, though it is a problem i know well.
Quick repeat of Crack Direct (V5) and then tried Superdirect (V6). It felt like i was making good progress and i thought i'd easily get it in one session but it's a slippery customer and it evaded me. My last attempt was very hopeful though as i actually used my new found momentum to totally overshoot the crux dyno hold. i thought it's go next session but i was tired and still a bit achy from 2 days before and didn't have the oomph. Disappointing really but it WILL go next time.
I have re-jigged my goals. No route goals, though i have a couple i want to do before i go, all about bouldering until i get to Spain. It fits with the free time i have ( not much ) and is better for managing my finger.
Need to focus on resting. After putting together 2 decent nights sleep i felt amazing yesterday. It's no wonder i'm not recovering quickly.
New targets: This is more of a wish list with * against those i must do
STG - End of June
V5/6C+
I can I can't - Carrock fell *
Hueco Crack ( low start ) - St Bees *
The rail - St Bees *
V6/7A
Crack Superdirect - Bowderstone *
Statstick
The Arete - St Bees *
Hueco Crack (sit start) *
Sing a rainbow - Carrock Fell *
V7/7A+
Picnic sarcastic ( standing start ) - Bowderstone *
Coming up for air
On the rebound
Yellow Desert Screaming ( if i've got the bottle ) - St Bees
MTG
V8/7B
Picnic sarcastic ( sit start ) - Bowderstone *
Ears of perception
Lack of rock/rope time and not the place to climb with a dodgy finger so i wasn't exactly trying 100%. Still, a bad day out climbing is better than a good day working and all that.
Better week this week.
1 easy boulder session working on the technique pointers from coaching.
2 sessions at the bowderstone - and my finger feels OK. Hooray !
Still trying to be more dynamic and it seems to be working now. I managed to maintain momentum all the way up the highball Crack ( V4 ) so i am starting to be able to do it at a reasonable level and when scared, though it is a problem i know well.
Quick repeat of Crack Direct (V5) and then tried Superdirect (V6). It felt like i was making good progress and i thought i'd easily get it in one session but it's a slippery customer and it evaded me. My last attempt was very hopeful though as i actually used my new found momentum to totally overshoot the crux dyno hold. i thought it's go next session but i was tired and still a bit achy from 2 days before and didn't have the oomph. Disappointing really but it WILL go next time.
I have re-jigged my goals. No route goals, though i have a couple i want to do before i go, all about bouldering until i get to Spain. It fits with the free time i have ( not much ) and is better for managing my finger.
Need to focus on resting. After putting together 2 decent nights sleep i felt amazing yesterday. It's no wonder i'm not recovering quickly.
New targets: This is more of a wish list with * against those i must do
STG - End of June
V5/6C+
I can I can't - Carrock fell *
Hueco Crack ( low start ) - St Bees *
The rail - St Bees *
V6/7A
Crack Superdirect - Bowderstone *
Statstick
The Arete - St Bees *
Hueco Crack (sit start) *
Sing a rainbow - Carrock Fell *
V7/7A+
Picnic sarcastic ( standing start ) - Bowderstone *
Coming up for air
On the rebound
Yellow Desert Screaming ( if i've got the bottle ) - St Bees
MTG
V8/7B
Picnic sarcastic ( sit start ) - Bowderstone *
Ears of perception
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Good to finally meet you the other week. Yea, 8a has been the goal since the start of the year, I just never put it down before. Getting on Raindogs sorted the doubt out though.
By July 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham?
By end 2011
8a
Last weeks training was attempting to target some power endurance and some anaerobic endurance.
M - rest
T - Bouldering @ Castle. Crimp circuits. 32 moves ~7a. Linked x3. 3rd rep tagged on 10 more moves. Feeling fitter. Introducing bad finger to gentle half crimping. Worked out some problems on the Wave for use in 4x4s.
W - Circuits and Tube @ Arch. Ticked blue 7a+ route in Tube. 3x 25 move circuit(7a+). 5x attempt 14 move V4 circuit problem. 2x attempt 30 move circuit (25 move circuit + V4/5 to finish). Best session in donkeys!
T - rest
F - rest
S - Routes @ Malham. 1x clean TR Consenting, 1x bolt to bolt Rose Coronary, 2x TR Hartley Hare. Will RP this next visit. Felt knackered and low power all day.
S - Routes @ Malham. RP Rose Coronary, bit of a fight for 7a. 2x TR on Raindogs. Now done every move and even linked a few together. As per Nick, super psyched for this. Think I need to get bolt to bolting this next time, the TR is almost more of a hindrance now.
This weeks aims are 2x PE sessions (1 day 4x4, 1 day circuits) and a strength session. Mates stag do over the bank holiday weekend but hopefully will get some rock in as we're in the Lakes.
Cheers Andy. Good to finally meet you the other week. Yea, 8a has been the goal since the start of the year, I just never put it down before. Getting on Raindogs sorted the doubt out though.
By July 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham?
By end 2011
8a
Last weeks training was attempting to target some power endurance and some anaerobic endurance.
M - rest
T - Bouldering @ Castle. Crimp circuits. 32 moves ~7a. Linked x3. 3rd rep tagged on 10 more moves. Feeling fitter. Introducing bad finger to gentle half crimping. Worked out some problems on the Wave for use in 4x4s.
W - Circuits and Tube @ Arch. Ticked blue 7a+ route in Tube. 3x 25 move circuit(7a+). 5x attempt 14 move V4 circuit problem. 2x attempt 30 move circuit (25 move circuit + V4/5 to finish). Best session in donkeys!
T - rest
F - rest
S - Routes @ Malham. 1x clean TR Consenting, 1x bolt to bolt Rose Coronary, 2x TR Hartley Hare. Will RP this next visit. Felt knackered and low power all day.
S - Routes @ Malham. RP Rose Coronary, bit of a fight for 7a. 2x TR on Raindogs. Now done every move and even linked a few together. As per Nick, super psyched for this. Think I need to get bolt to bolting this next time, the TR is almost more of a hindrance now.
This weeks aims are 2x PE sessions (1 day 4x4, 1 day circuits) and a strength session. Mates stag do over the bank holiday weekend but hopefully will get some rock in as we're in the Lakes.
Thank you AJM. More cycling to report:
Upcoming races:
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: nothing
Tu: triathlon club 10 mile time trial. 29:23 which is a PB in spite of a nasty wind. Found that the time pressure did help me to be less nervous (but I still negative split all four laps - getting more confident as I went on I think...)
W: club run - did intervals, I have not run that fast for a while! Club swim 1 hour.
Th: ran 14km in 1h15
F: was supposed to go swimming before work but went for the extra sleep instead...
Sa: the plan was to cycle 180km from my flat in Edinburgh to my parents' place near Newcastle upon Tyne. Unfortunatley this turned out to be into the wind the whole way and after 110km and 5 hours I bailed out when the bloke showed up to do his support car duties! Still, another 100km under the belt, and that is the furthest I've cycled on the TT bike.
Su: 40 minute run, easy, 6km.
Planning another attempt at 180km next weekend. Also panicing about the ash cloud as we are supposed to be flying to Austria for the race...
Upcoming races:
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: nothing
Tu: triathlon club 10 mile time trial. 29:23 which is a PB in spite of a nasty wind. Found that the time pressure did help me to be less nervous (but I still negative split all four laps - getting more confident as I went on I think...)
W: club run - did intervals, I have not run that fast for a while! Club swim 1 hour.
Th: ran 14km in 1h15
F: was supposed to go swimming before work but went for the extra sleep instead...
Sa: the plan was to cycle 180km from my flat in Edinburgh to my parents' place near Newcastle upon Tyne. Unfortunatley this turned out to be into the wind the whole way and after 110km and 5 hours I bailed out when the bloke showed up to do his support car duties! Still, another 100km under the belt, and that is the furthest I've cycled on the TT bike.
Su: 40 minute run, easy, 6km.
Planning another attempt at 180km next weekend. Also panicing about the ash cloud as we are supposed to be flying to Austria for the race...
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Hi Nick have you read this?:http://www.higher-faster-sports.com/PlannedOvertraining.html
I am trying to figure out the best approach in the climbing season. Tommy says he generally sticks to the model of three increasingly hard weeks and then an underreaching/performance week. Recently I have done 'too much' outdoor climbing so feel I have got weak so topping up on strength work this week but generally trying to fully recover between sessions. If you can train after an outdoor climbing in the evening then this would probably solve a lot of things though most of us havent got the time resources or psyche for that.
Hi Nick have you read this?:http://www.higher-faster-sports.com/PlannedOvertraining.html
I am trying to figure out the best approach in the climbing season. Tommy says he generally sticks to the model of three increasingly hard weeks and then an underreaching/performance week. Recently I have done 'too much' outdoor climbing so feel I have got weak so topping up on strength work this week but generally trying to fully recover between sessions. If you can train after an outdoor climbing in the evening then this would probably solve a lot of things though most of us havent got the time resources or psyche for that.
In reply to catt:
Are you going ghyll scrambling by any chance ?
I've got 2 stag do's booked in over bank holiday.
Are you going ghyll scrambling by any chance ?
I've got 2 stag do's booked in over bank holiday.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks, Andy. And pleased to be reporting a big week now despite no let up in this (up here anyway) horrendously unseasonable May!
Must admit I was a bit put out at first, but that's done now. And it's really not (shouldn't be) a 'them and us' situation when many of us are 'multi-sport' and (for example) I'm a climber too (albeit currently an intermittent one)... on which note congrats to Matt for his E2 headpoint!
M: [61.0] Rest
T: [63.5] Bridge of Orchy/Tyndrum return+, 14.4 miles/1,400 ft
W: [65.5] Walking with school (non-counting mileage) + Dam by Penstock, 11.9 miles/2,200 ft
T: [62.0] Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
F: [71.3] Full Lairig Mor (Fort to Kinloch), 14.7 miles/2,400 ft
S: [92.5] Glencoe Ski Centre, 21.2 miles/4,100 ft
S: [74.4] An Cumhann/Full Grey Mare's, 6.6 miles/1,700 ft
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> petestack - nice work on pushing the mileage back up on Sunday.
Thanks, Andy. And pleased to be reporting a big week now despite no let up in this (up here anyway) horrendously unseasonable May!
> Hope you don't feel put off Fit Club by last week's discusions - in a collection of individuals there's always going to be a wide spectrum of views on any issue, so I wouldn't feel like "the climbers want the runners to leave" or anything like that
Must admit I was a bit put out at first, but that's done now. And it's really not (shouldn't be) a 'them and us' situation when many of us are 'multi-sport' and (for example) I'm a climber too (albeit currently an intermittent one)... on which note congrats to Matt for his E2 headpoint!
M: [61.0] Rest
T: [63.5] Bridge of Orchy/Tyndrum return+, 14.4 miles/1,400 ft
W: [65.5] Walking with school (non-counting mileage) + Dam by Penstock, 11.9 miles/2,200 ft
T: [62.0] Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
F: [71.3] Full Lairig Mor (Fort to Kinloch), 14.7 miles/2,400 ft
S: [92.5] Glencoe Ski Centre, 21.2 miles/4,100 ft
S: [74.4] An Cumhann/Full Grey Mare's, 6.6 miles/1,700 ft
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Nick, that's a great post, will have to sit down and work thru' it - feels like you've posted us some homework!
Two questions:
Do you think you get enough rest with a regime like that? I think I'd blow up...
How long does it take you to get from London to Malham?
Nick, that's a great post, will have to sit down and work thru' it - feels like you've posted us some homework!
Two questions:
Do you think you get enough rest with a regime like that? I think I'd blow up...
How long does it take you to get from London to Malham?
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Having had a read, I quite like the look of this idea. Im currently thinking my indoor work will be strength/power, to complement my outdoor sport (power/power endurance in general) and my trad (low end power endurance through to arc), thereby vaguely training everything at once. It looks like you've taken the same basic idea and made it (quelle surprise) far more structured and organised.
I think you might find you'll have to have some of your outdoor sessions filling those blocks though as 4 days indoor (even despite one being active rest) plus 2 days outdoor per week is a helluva load, especially if you intend to fingerboard/weights/etc as well somewhere - you've said this as much yourself though.
One last thing - D you've said is mid level anaerobic work and have given the example of a circuit of medium length. But your suggested exercises are aerocap and arc, which I would have said are low level anaerobic or entirely aerobic...?
Ps You still owe me some potential dates for autumn...
Having had a read, I quite like the look of this idea. Im currently thinking my indoor work will be strength/power, to complement my outdoor sport (power/power endurance in general) and my trad (low end power endurance through to arc), thereby vaguely training everything at once. It looks like you've taken the same basic idea and made it (quelle surprise) far more structured and organised.
I think you might find you'll have to have some of your outdoor sessions filling those blocks though as 4 days indoor (even despite one being active rest) plus 2 days outdoor per week is a helluva load, especially if you intend to fingerboard/weights/etc as well somewhere - you've said this as much yourself though.
One last thing - D you've said is mid level anaerobic work and have given the example of a circuit of medium length. But your suggested exercises are aerocap and arc, which I would have said are low level anaerobic or entirely aerobic...?
Ps You still owe me some potential dates for autumn...
In reply to JimmyKay:
I am more psyched for that than picnic sit start but picnic is a grudge match as it tore my pulley so i've got to get that monkey off my back.
I have beta for EOP from the FA so no excuses ;0)
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> Ears of Perception is a great problem.
>
> Ears of Perception is a great problem.
I am more psyched for that than picnic sit start but picnic is a grudge match as it tore my pulley so i've got to get that monkey off my back.
I have beta for EOP from the FA so no excuses ;0)
In reply to shark:
Cheers Simon. Yeah I am following the dual factor stuff with interest, it seems to be turning in some impressive results.
Generally though my in-season is characterised by quite unpredictable and sporadic trips out to rock, generally governed by weather/ability to get out on rock - for instance, looking in my diary for last year, August was virtually a write-off due to rain, conditions and other stuff going on - whereas September I got successful trips 3 weekends out of 4. October I got out once due to looming exams.
I would imagine that sort of planned (over)training and performing works well if you have rock on your doorstep but I think it's not for me given current lifestyle. The flexible non-linear stuff is appealing as it seems well oriented toward an unpredictable schedule and lets you fit in sessions (or half sessions) as and when you can, and at whatever intensity you feel you can manage.
I suspect like you, priorities for an in-season plan is trying to keep strength topped up; typically my power drops off dramatically at this time of year as routes take priority. The main objective though is building the high intensity end of power endurance; the low intensity end and aerobic endurance I suspect will look after themselves with time on rock.
Cheers Simon. Yeah I am following the dual factor stuff with interest, it seems to be turning in some impressive results.
Generally though my in-season is characterised by quite unpredictable and sporadic trips out to rock, generally governed by weather/ability to get out on rock - for instance, looking in my diary for last year, August was virtually a write-off due to rain, conditions and other stuff going on - whereas September I got successful trips 3 weekends out of 4. October I got out once due to looming exams.
I would imagine that sort of planned (over)training and performing works well if you have rock on your doorstep but I think it's not for me given current lifestyle. The flexible non-linear stuff is appealing as it seems well oriented toward an unpredictable schedule and lets you fit in sessions (or half sessions) as and when you can, and at whatever intensity you feel you can manage.
I suspect like you, priorities for an in-season plan is trying to keep strength topped up; typically my power drops off dramatically at this time of year as routes take priority. The main objective though is building the high intensity end of power endurance; the low intensity end and aerobic endurance I suspect will look after themselves with time on rock.
In reply to seankenny:
The short answer is that it is going to be a bit of a process of trial and error. The long answer is that one of the purported strengths of a flexible non-linear programme is that you are able to move easy and hard training days around how fatigued you are at any given point, or even sack a session off and push everything back a day without it messing up your schedule too much. The easiest days should be active rest. Generally though with weekends away there is always quite a lot of 'dead time' - eg. Fridays are usually total rest days due to travelling, days on at the crag generally involve lots of standing around belaying and are rarely as physically demanding as a proper indoor beasting session, etc. I spent a bit of time doing high volume/many days on over the winter, so I am hoping I have built a bit of a conditioning base and my body will deal with it - we'll have to see!
realistically about 5 hours in a car. On a train the journey is actually quite fast (3.5 hours or so) but it means you need to either wait for a bus or get a taxi from Skipton to Malham (costs about £20 and not a bad option)
> Do you think you get enough rest with a regime like that? I think I'd blow up...
The short answer is that it is going to be a bit of a process of trial and error. The long answer is that one of the purported strengths of a flexible non-linear programme is that you are able to move easy and hard training days around how fatigued you are at any given point, or even sack a session off and push everything back a day without it messing up your schedule too much. The easiest days should be active rest. Generally though with weekends away there is always quite a lot of 'dead time' - eg. Fridays are usually total rest days due to travelling, days on at the crag generally involve lots of standing around belaying and are rarely as physically demanding as a proper indoor beasting session, etc. I spent a bit of time doing high volume/many days on over the winter, so I am hoping I have built a bit of a conditioning base and my body will deal with it - we'll have to see!
> How long does it take you to get from London to Malham?
realistically about 5 hours in a car. On a train the journey is actually quite fast (3.5 hours or so) but it means you need to either wait for a bus or get a taxi from Skipton to Malham (costs about £20 and not a bad option)
In reply to AJM:
Yes, that is pretty much the idea in a nutshell. It is, in a roundabout way, pretty much the same basic idea as advocated in The Self Coached Climber, so it is a complicated way of restating a familiar concept.
Well I am most of the way through the first cycle and it looks like I am going to manage 4 indoor sessions (out of a maximum possible of 8) - but 4 sessions per week is just an ideal, really - ie. what I would manage in a week not involving a weekend climbing - so I think I'm fine with it not being practically achievable every week, though I will need to reassess to see if I am missing anything in a systematic way.
Good spot on the deliberate mistake yes, I have been mulling over in my head how to resolve that inconsistency. One option is to add in another block E which would essentially be Aerocap, or I might just change block D to aerocap and expand block C to cover essentially anywhere between 16 to 30 moves. On the other hand that is actually quite a large range and if it turns out all my circuits have been 16 moves it leaves me with a big hole the endurance spectrum around the 30 move mark. More thought required and a tweak in the next revision of the schedule I think.
Mailing you re. the Autumn.
> Having had a read, I quite like the look of this idea. Im currently thinking my indoor work will be strength/power, to complement my outdoor sport (power/power endurance in general) and my trad (low end power endurance through to arc), thereby vaguely training everything at once. It looks like you've taken the same basic idea and made it (quelle surprise) far more structured and organised.
Yes, that is pretty much the idea in a nutshell. It is, in a roundabout way, pretty much the same basic idea as advocated in The Self Coached Climber, so it is a complicated way of restating a familiar concept.
> I think you might find you'll have to have some of your outdoor sessions filling those blocks though as 4 days indoor (even despite one being active rest) plus 2 days outdoor per week is a helluva load, especially if you intend to fingerboard/weights/etc as well somewhere - you've said this as much yourself though.
Well I am most of the way through the first cycle and it looks like I am going to manage 4 indoor sessions (out of a maximum possible of 8) - but 4 sessions per week is just an ideal, really - ie. what I would manage in a week not involving a weekend climbing - so I think I'm fine with it not being practically achievable every week, though I will need to reassess to see if I am missing anything in a systematic way.
> One last thing - D you've said is mid level anaerobic work and have given the example of a circuit of medium length. But your suggested exercises are aerocap and arc, which I would have said are low level anaerobic or entirely aerobic...?
Good spot on the deliberate mistake yes, I have been mulling over in my head how to resolve that inconsistency. One option is to add in another block E which would essentially be Aerocap, or I might just change block D to aerocap and expand block C to cover essentially anywhere between 16 to 30 moves. On the other hand that is actually quite a large range and if it turns out all my circuits have been 16 moves it leaves me with a big hole the endurance spectrum around the 30 move mark. More thought required and a tweak in the next revision of the schedule I think.
Mailing you re. the Autumn.
In reply to biscuit:
We are going ghyll scrambling! At 2pm on Saturday, with a Quest 4 Adventure. Is that you?? That'd be a laugh.
We are going ghyll scrambling! At 2pm on Saturday, with a Quest 4 Adventure. Is that you?? That'd be a laugh.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Wow what a detailed post. It's really great that you shared this with Fitclub, after the talk last week about the runners being more systematic with their training, I'd decided to rethink my training. This should really help.
I was wondering, do you take much rest between the blocks of different activity? and how long are your training sessions? It looks like you pack a lot in.
Tony
Wow what a detailed post. It's really great that you shared this with Fitclub, after the talk last week about the runners being more systematic with their training, I'd decided to rethink my training. This should really help.
I was wondering, do you take much rest between the blocks of different activity? and how long are your training sessions? It looks like you pack a lot in.
Tony
I will be in the UK visiting family next week and am hoping to be able to get to Portland/Swanage for a couple of days. Are any Fit Club members likely to be there between Saturday 4th and Monday 6th of June?
Also can anyone recommend any must do routes. I'd like to try and add a quick redpoint to my pyramid (something in the 7a+/7b range, and preferably something that doesn't require secret beta).
Thanks, Tony
In reply to TonyB:
Hope you can make some sense out of it.
In a 4 hour session indoors I am aiming to get 3 30-40 minute blocks done. If each block is half an hour that should leave plenty of time for warming up, drinking tea and generally faffing but what I have found this week is that the blocks start to spill over the allotted time, especially when you start getting tired. 40 minutes is not a lot of training time and you have to start it really knowing what you are going to do - eg. if you are doing an AnCap or circuits block, you generally need to have circuits and problems wired before you start, not be making them up on the fly.
Rest between blocks depends on what the block is - something like a 4x4 or Density will need a good rest and a sit down and might even be game over for the session (at my current level of fitness anyway!), whereas something like a campus or threshold boulder you should be able to go straight on, as you taking quite a lot of rest between sets within the block.
I think when I have it a bit more wired and if I am efficient/single minded/disciplined about timing rests, 3 quality blocks should be achievable if not 4.
Hope you can make some sense out of it.
> I was wondering, do you take much rest between the blocks of different activity? and how long are your training sessions? It looks like you pack a lot in
In a 4 hour session indoors I am aiming to get 3 30-40 minute blocks done. If each block is half an hour that should leave plenty of time for warming up, drinking tea and generally faffing but what I have found this week is that the blocks start to spill over the allotted time, especially when you start getting tired. 40 minutes is not a lot of training time and you have to start it really knowing what you are going to do - eg. if you are doing an AnCap or circuits block, you generally need to have circuits and problems wired before you start, not be making them up on the fly.
Rest between blocks depends on what the block is - something like a 4x4 or Density will need a good rest and a sit down and might even be game over for the session (at my current level of fitness anyway!), whereas something like a campus or threshold boulder you should be able to go straight on, as you taking quite a lot of rest between sets within the block.
I think when I have it a bit more wired and if I am efficient/single minded/disciplined about timing rests, 3 quality blocks should be achievable if not 4.
In reply to TonyB:
Also FYI if any of the other training geeks are interested in the theory/SCIENCE behind nonlinear periodisation, this is some bedtime reading:
http://books.google.com/books?id=c_r98FaHllwC&printsec=frontcover&d...
surprisingly readable though obviously restricted to strength training/conditioning
Also FYI if any of the other training geeks are interested in the theory/SCIENCE behind nonlinear periodisation, this is some bedtime reading:
http://books.google.com/books?id=c_r98FaHllwC&printsec=frontcover&d...
surprisingly readable though obviously restricted to strength training/conditioning
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
There's no way I can manage a four hour session, partly due to lack of fitness (unless intensity was very low) but also lack of time during the week. How would you tweak this system for us working stiffs? Smaller blocks or fewer per day? I'm imagining the later...
>
>
> In a 4 hour session indoors I am aiming to get 3 30-40 minute blocks done.
>
> In a 4 hour session indoors I am aiming to get 3 30-40 minute blocks done.
There's no way I can manage a four hour session, partly due to lack of fitness (unless intensity was very low) but also lack of time during the week. How would you tweak this system for us working stiffs? Smaller blocks or fewer per day? I'm imagining the later...
In reply to seankenny:
Interesting, I don't know how short you can make a block and have it still be valuable, though I bet 20m blocks would work for many of those exercises. Little and often, and all that. 20m is plenty of time for a campus, say, and Density, 4x4s, etc. can all be done inside 20m. You'd need to be super disciplined with your timing though and I think you'd have to hit it quite intensely to really pack the training into those 20m.
If you reduce the number of blocks you are doing per session, I'd probably also reduce the number of different exercises you are trying to do in each zone, so you're not spreading yourself too thin. My rule of thumb is that doing an exercise once per week is enough to maintain fitness, twice per week will make slow progress and three times per week will make fast progress.
Interesting, I don't know how short you can make a block and have it still be valuable, though I bet 20m blocks would work for many of those exercises. Little and often, and all that. 20m is plenty of time for a campus, say, and Density, 4x4s, etc. can all be done inside 20m. You'd need to be super disciplined with your timing though and I think you'd have to hit it quite intensely to really pack the training into those 20m.
If you reduce the number of blocks you are doing per session, I'd probably also reduce the number of different exercises you are trying to do in each zone, so you're not spreading yourself too thin. My rule of thumb is that doing an exercise once per week is enough to maintain fitness, twice per week will make slow progress and three times per week will make fast progress.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks again Tony, Was a great weekend and Devon is very quickly becoming my favorite place to climb!! if not to be!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
- Morgs
- Luke
- Jonny
Week 20 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end May
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight,
Medium: June
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING: Power.
3 campus sessions and saw some progress, no route climbing and just tried to concentrate on getting quality work done which was good, Managed one good bouldering session where I got a powerful V7 and very close to two other V7's but blew them both on last move dohh.
Working hard on core tension which I am now a total believer in in terms of the difference it makes on the steeper stuff really hitting the planks hard with three days of 7 minute planks with power screams of pain to boot!
Just a hard week of putting the work in!
Continuing with the AnCap work as much as possible and seeing progress on this as getting to the end of more reps. Only two weeks in to the 13 week block for this and seeing reasonable progress. I seem to get in quite a trance with the movements already as I know them so well, its a starnge sensation!
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility (definite progress with physio and complexes)
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 7.5kg eA) as part of warm up in AM
- injury prevention continue back rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.
- Do physio religiously no slacking!!
- Work out cirquit on 45 board to replicate cider soak!
This Weeks Goals:
LOADING/FATIGUE: Here comes the pain minimum of three session working on density bouldering (20 problems in 30 minutes V3+), 2 sessions of 4x4's, AnCap work and continue core and Bolton Complex work, The idea this week is to increase volume and drop intensity slightly and get knackered!
Weight: 75.5kg
Cheers
Just want to do a bit of an add on to the stuff from Nick, His approach is different to mine as he wants to be in peak form most of the time and has a lot of scope for getting out every weekend which I do not, for this reason I am looking to peak for the rest and test phase which is ever 7 to 8 weeks and gives a window of 7 to 10 days for peak performance which will hopefully give more of a peak but during the training phases and especially the fatigue peak you drop a lot as I am finding now!
I don't find this a proiblem as I am happy to plan ahead and willing to take the lows with the highs. I am also finding that with each peak comes new gained ground. I have simillar appraoches in that I will block sessions as you can see but I will keep specific weekly blocks i.e Srength, Power, PE but througfh out I am working Anaerobic capacity continually and using aerobic capacity as recovery sessions.
Appears to be working for me and I think if you are willing to sacrifice short term performance for long term gain and you can plan ahaead is a good approach.
Feel free to comment or question!
Gordon
Thanks again Tony, Was a great weekend and Devon is very quickly becoming my favorite place to climb!! if not to be!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
- Morgs
- Luke
- Jonny
Week 20 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end May
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight,
Medium: June
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING: Power.
3 campus sessions and saw some progress, no route climbing and just tried to concentrate on getting quality work done which was good, Managed one good bouldering session where I got a powerful V7 and very close to two other V7's but blew them both on last move dohh.
Working hard on core tension which I am now a total believer in in terms of the difference it makes on the steeper stuff really hitting the planks hard with three days of 7 minute planks with power screams of pain to boot!
Just a hard week of putting the work in!
Continuing with the AnCap work as much as possible and seeing progress on this as getting to the end of more reps. Only two weeks in to the 13 week block for this and seeing reasonable progress. I seem to get in quite a trance with the movements already as I know them so well, its a starnge sensation!
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility (definite progress with physio and complexes)
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 7.5kg eA) as part of warm up in AM
- injury prevention continue back rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.
- Do physio religiously no slacking!!
- Work out cirquit on 45 board to replicate cider soak!
This Weeks Goals:
LOADING/FATIGUE: Here comes the pain minimum of three session working on density bouldering (20 problems in 30 minutes V3+), 2 sessions of 4x4's, AnCap work and continue core and Bolton Complex work, The idea this week is to increase volume and drop intensity slightly and get knackered!
Weight: 75.5kg
Cheers
Just want to do a bit of an add on to the stuff from Nick, His approach is different to mine as he wants to be in peak form most of the time and has a lot of scope for getting out every weekend which I do not, for this reason I am looking to peak for the rest and test phase which is ever 7 to 8 weeks and gives a window of 7 to 10 days for peak performance which will hopefully give more of a peak but during the training phases and especially the fatigue peak you drop a lot as I am finding now!
I don't find this a proiblem as I am happy to plan ahead and willing to take the lows with the highs. I am also finding that with each peak comes new gained ground. I have simillar appraoches in that I will block sessions as you can see but I will keep specific weekly blocks i.e Srength, Power, PE but througfh out I am working Anaerobic capacity continually and using aerobic capacity as recovery sessions.
Appears to be working for me and I think if you are willing to sacrifice short term performance for long term gain and you can plan ahaead is a good approach.
Feel free to comment or question!
Gordon
In reply to AJM: chance to update from a very wet snowdonia. Had a good weekend of bouldering after delaying trip across here till Monday.
M:
T:
W: bell hagg, circuit plus nunns wall stuff
T:
F:
S: rubicon, finally did millers tale (from standing)
S: bell hagg, new v4 plus usual circuit
Stg: dry, wind free weather
Mtg+ltg as before.
M:
T:
W: bell hagg, circuit plus nunns wall stuff
T:
F:
S: rubicon, finally did millers tale (from standing)
S: bell hagg, new v4 plus usual circuit
Stg: dry, wind free weather
Mtg+ltg as before.
In reply to AJM:
M - AM: 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat, PM: 3.5 miles road run, easy, minor hill
T -
W - AM: 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat, PM: 3.5 miles road run, easy, flat
T -
F -
S - 2:15 off road run, steady with some pace.
S -
Lack of time rather than lack of motivation. Another hectic week this week the a week in the lakes, culminating in the Duddon race.
M - AM: 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat, PM: 3.5 miles road run, easy, minor hill
T -
W - AM: 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat, PM: 3.5 miles road run, easy, flat
T -
F -
S - 2:15 off road run, steady with some pace.
S -
Lack of time rather than lack of motivation. Another hectic week this week the a week in the lakes, culminating in the Duddon race.
In reply to AJM:
Only one indoor session last week - better prepared though. Did some V2 boulder problems after just a couple of tries and working on a couple of V3s. Left rope behind in car so TR'd a few of Kevster's new Harlow routes - as well set (and tough for the grade) as ever!
Practice falls - 0
oh, and the kids' swing that my rock rings were hanging off broke, so no finger training. I've blamed it on my kids....
Only one indoor session last week - better prepared though. Did some V2 boulder problems after just a couple of tries and working on a couple of V3s. Left rope behind in car so TR'd a few of Kevster's new Harlow routes - as well set (and tough for the grade) as ever!
Practice falls - 0
oh, and the kids' swing that my rock rings were hanging off broke, so no finger training. I've blamed it on my kids....
Thanks AJM, bit late to post this week as been totally deluged at work. Bit of a half hearted, far too late taper after two 30 mile weeks this time.
Last week's goal:Finish Tewkesbury half in under 1:30 (PB is 1:25:50 but specific training has been lacking recently)
ACHIEVED - 1:28:32
Pretty pleased with my time on what was a very windy day with the last 5 miles into a strong head wind. I came 50th out of over 1000 and the winner ran 1:14 something which shows that all times were a bit slower than they should have been.
M: rest
T: rest
W: fastish 10k (43:30) to get a last bit of 'cramming' speed work in
T: rest
F: rest
S: 5 mile walk on Quantocks
S: Tewkesbury half marathon. See above.
STG: (end May): Run 100 miles in May
MTG (end June): Go under 2:30:00 for the North Downs 30k, enter into at least one ultra before Sept
LTG (end July): Good performance in Saunders MM (top 20 maybe)
VTLG: Run 100 miles in one day, beat 3:00 marathon, 1:25 half and 40min 10k.
Last week's goal:Finish Tewkesbury half in under 1:30 (PB is 1:25:50 but specific training has been lacking recently)
ACHIEVED - 1:28:32
Pretty pleased with my time on what was a very windy day with the last 5 miles into a strong head wind. I came 50th out of over 1000 and the winner ran 1:14 something which shows that all times were a bit slower than they should have been.
M: rest
T: rest
W: fastish 10k (43:30) to get a last bit of 'cramming' speed work in
T: rest
F: rest
S: 5 mile walk on Quantocks
S: Tewkesbury half marathon. See above.
STG: (end May): Run 100 miles in May
MTG (end June): Go under 2:30:00 for the North Downs 30k, enter into at least one ultra before Sept
LTG (end July): Good performance in Saunders MM (top 20 maybe)
VTLG: Run 100 miles in one day, beat 3:00 marathon, 1:25 half and 40min 10k.
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