UKC

NEWS: Steve McClure Repeats The Quarryman (E8)

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 UKC News 30 May 2011
Steve McClure in the desperate slate chimney groove of The Quarryman, 3 kbDespite damp conditions in North Wales, Steve McClure has managed to make the probable first 'all pitches in one day' ascent of The Quarryman (E8) in the Dinorwig slate quarries, Llanberis.


The four pitch route was first climbed by Johnny Dawes and has seen perhaps a handful of repeats in different forms, mainly just of the top two pitches.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62420

 mloskot 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: Great n stuff Steve!

Interesting, am I seeing untied laces of Steve's shoes on the pictures attached?

Could anyone explain me the grade of this route? Is it that some pitches are bolted and on some pitches climber places his own protection?
 193 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: i have never posted on ukc and do not want to start now however these 2 statements are incompatible


has managed to make the probable first one day ascent of The Quarryman (E8)

Steve first attempted the route early last week, but a late start and extremely tiring climbing in the famous 'groove pitch' stopped his ascent.

surely it should read Steve Mclure has managed to make the probable first continuous ascent of The Quarryman (E8)


 Yanis Nayu 30 May 2011
In reply to 193: Or "Has managed to make what is probably the first continuous ascent..."
 Col Allott 30 May 2011
In reply to 193:

errrm. I perfectly understood the news article, but not your post!

Nice one Ste, sounds like a hard day!
 Michael Gordon 30 May 2011
In reply to 193:

It's quite possible to do a one day ascent of something you have attempted previously.

As long as on the final ascent you start at the bottom and climb it in a one-er in the space of a day then it is a 'one day ascent', no?
 UKB Shark 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: in North Wales, Steve McClure has managed to make the probable first one day ascent of The Quarryman (E8) in the Dinorwig slate quarries, Llanberis.


"managed to make what is probably the first same day ascent" might read better and be a bit clearer with respect to the style.



In reply to UKC News: good effort Steve (and Neil too). An iconic route in my household.

To the question about gear/grade - there was an in-situ peg and nut on the first pitch. No idea if they remain.

The grading
To quote Paul Williams from the Llanberis guidebook (1987) "Grades, a headache at the best of times, are generally aligned to those in The [Llanberis] Pass".

They have evolved a little since to include french grading.
 Al Evans 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: Well done Steve.
 Mark Reeves Global Crag Moderator 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: Awesome Effort to both of you! Fantastic Effort to get back on it.
 Alex Mason 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: any reason why his shoes are undone? tactical or ludicrous beast? does it hlp him smear in otherwise edgy boots?
 James Oswald 30 May 2011
In reply to Alex Mason:
Or because he's posing for the camera and wasn't actually on an actual attempt?
He does it in this one too....
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3449
Removed User 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Anyone who has stood and looked over at "the Quarryman" will know what an awesome achievement this is. Well done.
 UKB Shark 30 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: has managed to make the probable first 'all pitches in one day' ascent of The Quarryman (E8) in the Dinorwig slate quarries, Llanberis.


"All pitches in one day" is better

Zap my posts if you want to declutter the thread
 Alun 30 May 2011
In reply to 193:
> i have never posted on ukc and do not want to start now however these 2 statements are incompatible

Sounds like you'll fit right in.

On topic: well done Ste!
 ste mac 30 May 2011
In reply to James Oswald:
Well spotted, shoes untied. Defo not posing for the camera! with a face like that! Those whites fit my feet so rediculously well I don't need to lace them up - or maybe my feet fit the shoes so well because I have been wearing 5.10 forever.
I lace em up if there is any heel hooks - which there certainly wasn't on that pitch!
 jas wood 30 May 2011
In reply to ste mac: Whats on the radar now steve ? or would that be telling.
your obviously in good form.
 Franco Cookson 02 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:


Well done Steve. He seems a very nice chap too- was giving me some useful beta on a route I was struggling with at a far more modest grade. Top notch. Looks like he can climb anything he wants!
Timglasby 02 Jun 2011
In reply to James Oswald: "O ye of little faith" perhaps there's another option - that's how Ste actually wears his boots while he's climbing - as was the case when the photo was taken during his first attempt. Posing, the guy was fighting for his life!
 Toerag 09 Jun 2011
In reply to 193:
> surely it should read Steve Mclure has managed to make the probable first continuous ascent of The Quarryman (E8)

Sounds like he had two days on it, failed the first day, then went back and did it all the second. The second day constitutes the 'all pitches in one day' ascent.
"Last Friday he went back with Neil Mawson and managed to climb all the pitches free."
 Steve Parker 09 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Can anyone fill me in on the style of the first ascent? How long did JD take to do it? I was unaware that he hadn't done it all in one go.

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