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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (225) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=466528
Repeat Posters - 24
AJM
richardh - sounds bad - hope it recovered enough for Kilnsey. Must get up there next year
seankenny - we did a few visits to some of the conglomerate bouldering which I quite enjoyed - we said we might do some routes some point but have never got round to it yet.....
grubes - sounds like a good weekend. Whats Rubicon like for punter grade bouldering?
Eagle River - sounds like you're ramping back up pretty well. Injury prevention exercises are a faff aren't they, but still so useful. BTW, will be back up at Malham again come September with Nick/Hazel for (hopefully) more crushing.
Hoppo - sounds like a good week, lots of stuff done and progress on the weight front too
petestack - how did 10 in the glen go? Nice one on the routes too.
andy - effort on Monday's ride!
Liam M - brilliant result, nice one!
The New NickB - sounds like a decent week
IainRUK - sounds like a manic schedule. Hope the week down south has helped you recharge a bit
TonyB - I find the "trying to flash as much as possible" sessions really good, teaches you about your reading of moves and also the sheer volume of moves must be good movement training - I feel like I move a lot better after sessions like that.
chris05 - sounds like good news for the knee. Hope the workload eases and the ticking restarts soon
Steve John B - how did the run go?
Curious Yellow - owch - better yet?
biscuit - hope the week went well.Am getting more of a psyche on for a Christmas trip, hopefully something might even come together, you never know.
leon - good result at Stanage, nice one. You're going well right now.
mattrm - I've only climbed on Dow once, but its one of the crags I'd really like to return to
gary.barr - quiet week.
Murd - not every week can be a good week - hope this one went better
Sonya Mc - busy week, good stuff with the 6b too, have you got back to try it on lead yet?
Daniel Heath - Dervish = nice one!
catt - sounds like a monster circuit. Well done on the V7 too
JimmyKay - house moving I hate, such hard work!
Returnees - 5
Stone_Donkey - I kind of know what you mean with the lack of structure - I've currently got it indoors but seem to have lost my way outdoors a bit at the minute
Thickhead - sounds like a good few weeks. Sure a goal will present itself soon
fimm - awesome effort, brilliant result! Serious mind-bogglage from this end too!
Miles - sounds like a good trip so far, keep it up!
Sankey - sounds like a great trip - its a very cool place
Absentees - 2
plexiglass_nick - on a course
Kevster
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (225) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=466528
Repeat Posters - 24
AJM
richardh - sounds bad - hope it recovered enough for Kilnsey. Must get up there next year
seankenny - we did a few visits to some of the conglomerate bouldering which I quite enjoyed - we said we might do some routes some point but have never got round to it yet.....
grubes - sounds like a good weekend. Whats Rubicon like for punter grade bouldering?
Eagle River - sounds like you're ramping back up pretty well. Injury prevention exercises are a faff aren't they, but still so useful. BTW, will be back up at Malham again come September with Nick/Hazel for (hopefully) more crushing.
Hoppo - sounds like a good week, lots of stuff done and progress on the weight front too
petestack - how did 10 in the glen go? Nice one on the routes too.
andy - effort on Monday's ride!
Liam M - brilliant result, nice one!
The New NickB - sounds like a decent week
IainRUK - sounds like a manic schedule. Hope the week down south has helped you recharge a bit
TonyB - I find the "trying to flash as much as possible" sessions really good, teaches you about your reading of moves and also the sheer volume of moves must be good movement training - I feel like I move a lot better after sessions like that.
chris05 - sounds like good news for the knee. Hope the workload eases and the ticking restarts soon
Steve John B - how did the run go?
Curious Yellow - owch - better yet?
biscuit - hope the week went well.Am getting more of a psyche on for a Christmas trip, hopefully something might even come together, you never know.
leon - good result at Stanage, nice one. You're going well right now.
mattrm - I've only climbed on Dow once, but its one of the crags I'd really like to return to
gary.barr - quiet week.
Murd - not every week can be a good week - hope this one went better
Sonya Mc - busy week, good stuff with the 6b too, have you got back to try it on lead yet?
Daniel Heath - Dervish = nice one!
catt - sounds like a monster circuit. Well done on the V7 too
JimmyKay - house moving I hate, such hard work!
Returnees - 5
Stone_Donkey - I kind of know what you mean with the lack of structure - I've currently got it indoors but seem to have lost my way outdoors a bit at the minute
Thickhead - sounds like a good few weeks. Sure a goal will present itself soon
fimm - awesome effort, brilliant result! Serious mind-bogglage from this end too!
Miles - sounds like a good trip so far, keep it up!
Sankey - sounds like a great trip - its a very cool place
Absentees - 2
plexiglass_nick - on a course
Kevster
In reply to AJM:
Been a bit of a mixed bag for me this week.
Tuesday I had a good wall session - 2 laps on the boulder to warm up, about 100 moves. Then moved onto the ancap project and had a few good goes, best effort was getting to the second last hard move, about move 16. Then went on the ropes and onsighted 3 6b+s which all felt pretty steady, then got a 6c onsight and 2 narrow misses.
Then yesterday I got out for an afternoon at Avon and found my right index finger was sore, an ache in the knuckle. So had to bin the planned attempt on an E2 and seconded a few HVSs instead. Disappointing.
The rest of the week involved 2 days of course and 4 heavy nights on the trot, so no real training value.
Feeling a bit like I've come down from the high I was on a month back with the climbing. Struggling to get the holy trinity of partners, time and weather to coincide far more than earlier on. And now this finger niggle too which isn't that encouraging. And the weight loss has probably slowed/stopped - haven't really weighed myself this week at all, what with being away and stuff.
I am busy this coming weekend, with then a 3-dayer at the end of the month. I'm thinking maybe about doing the next 2 weeks as mainly aerocap to keep the intensity low, do some core/weights/CV and hope that the break will do the body and the mind good and leave me repsyched and healed for the end of the month.
Been a bit of a mixed bag for me this week.
Tuesday I had a good wall session - 2 laps on the boulder to warm up, about 100 moves. Then moved onto the ancap project and had a few good goes, best effort was getting to the second last hard move, about move 16. Then went on the ropes and onsighted 3 6b+s which all felt pretty steady, then got a 6c onsight and 2 narrow misses.
Then yesterday I got out for an afternoon at Avon and found my right index finger was sore, an ache in the knuckle. So had to bin the planned attempt on an E2 and seconded a few HVSs instead. Disappointing.
The rest of the week involved 2 days of course and 4 heavy nights on the trot, so no real training value.
Feeling a bit like I've come down from the high I was on a month back with the climbing. Struggling to get the holy trinity of partners, time and weather to coincide far more than earlier on. And now this finger niggle too which isn't that encouraging. And the weight loss has probably slowed/stopped - haven't really weighed myself this week at all, what with being away and stuff.
I am busy this coming weekend, with then a 3-dayer at the end of the month. I'm thinking maybe about doing the next 2 weeks as mainly aerocap to keep the intensity low, do some core/weights/CV and hope that the break will do the body and the mind good and leave me repsyched and healed for the end of the month.
In reply to AJM: Cheers
m: am: 5 mile road run. pm: 5 x 1k reps.
t: lunch: 6.8 mile trail run south downs. pm: 5 mile road run.
w: 9.5 mile trail run south downs
t: lunch: 5 mile road run. pm:6.8 mile trail run south downs.
f: rest drive back from brighton
s: 2am: Glyders Paddy buckley leg, 12 miles 2000m ascent. pm: Marshalling Elidir Fawr race, 500m ascent, 4 miles
s; Run up Snowdon, 9.5 miles, 1000m ascent
m: am: 5 mile road run. pm: 5 x 1k reps.
t: lunch: 6.8 mile trail run south downs. pm: 5 mile road run.
w: 9.5 mile trail run south downs
t: lunch: 5 mile road run. pm:6.8 mile trail run south downs.
f: rest drive back from brighton
s: 2am: Glyders Paddy buckley leg, 12 miles 2000m ascent. pm: Marshalling Elidir Fawr race, 500m ascent, 4 miles
s; Run up Snowdon, 9.5 miles, 1000m ascent
In reply to AJM:
Finally climbing again after a long drawn out ankle fracture and subsequent surgery so I thought I'd join the thread to keep track of training.
I've been out of action for a long while and have just had to stick to fingerboarding to try and hold on to any strength I had before.
But the bandage from the op came off on Tuesday and surprisingly the doc said I was good to go climbing immediately! He said let the ankle dictate what I do - 'if it hurts stop, if it doesn't, you're fine'. Staying off anything that isn't overhanging for a while though just in case I catch it on the way down (like the original break)
Monday - Nothing, still on crutches
Tuesday - Doc gave me the all clear - general ankle mobilisation and getting used to walking again
Wednesday - indoor session, first climbing for about 6 months woop woop! Just gentle traversing. Ankle felt great.
Thursday - Another climbing session. Ramped it up a bit and fairly easily ticked a few problems at my previous highpoint (V4-5)
Friday - Ankle was still feeling great so went for another session at the wall. Ticked a couple of V6's! Fingerboarding is obviously paying off.
Saturday - Ankle was still fine so I went to the wall again despite arms being a bit fatigued. Managed to do all the moves on a V7(!) but not link it. Also did a few anaerobic circuits to finish myself off.
Sunday - Day off, after 4 days in a row. Feels great to be aching from climbing again!
STG: Finish off that V7 and a few more V5's and V6's - next week
MTG: 7c redpoint either Tremelo at Malham or Indecent Exposure Direct at Raven Tor - End of September (back to uni)
LTG: 7b onsight, 8a redpoint (route to be confirmed!) - End of next summer
Any comments, hints or ideas welcome!
Finally climbing again after a long drawn out ankle fracture and subsequent surgery so I thought I'd join the thread to keep track of training.
I've been out of action for a long while and have just had to stick to fingerboarding to try and hold on to any strength I had before.
But the bandage from the op came off on Tuesday and surprisingly the doc said I was good to go climbing immediately! He said let the ankle dictate what I do - 'if it hurts stop, if it doesn't, you're fine'. Staying off anything that isn't overhanging for a while though just in case I catch it on the way down (like the original break)
Monday - Nothing, still on crutches
Tuesday - Doc gave me the all clear - general ankle mobilisation and getting used to walking again
Wednesday - indoor session, first climbing for about 6 months woop woop! Just gentle traversing. Ankle felt great.
Thursday - Another climbing session. Ramped it up a bit and fairly easily ticked a few problems at my previous highpoint (V4-5)
Friday - Ankle was still feeling great so went for another session at the wall. Ticked a couple of V6's! Fingerboarding is obviously paying off.
Saturday - Ankle was still fine so I went to the wall again despite arms being a bit fatigued. Managed to do all the moves on a V7(!) but not link it. Also did a few anaerobic circuits to finish myself off.
Sunday - Day off, after 4 days in a row. Feels great to be aching from climbing again!
STG: Finish off that V7 and a few more V5's and V6's - next week
MTG: 7c redpoint either Tremelo at Malham or Indecent Exposure Direct at Raven Tor - End of September (back to uni)
LTG: 7b onsight, 8a redpoint (route to be confirmed!) - End of next summer
Any comments, hints or ideas welcome!
In reply to AJM: thanks Andy
Not much all week again (busy with work, music and alcohol) but managed a 25 minute jog today, and a few half-hearted core exercises in the week. Plus 180 heel drops per day.
Not much all week again (busy with work, music and alcohol) but managed a 25 minute jog today, and a few half-hearted core exercises in the week. Plus 180 heel drops per day.
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:
Welcome along Ed. Sounds like the fingerboarding has done you some good
Am I right in thinking you're the same Ed that Ali and I met with Rachel B a year or so back in N Wales? What did you do to the ankle?
Good luck with the goals - sounds like you've got plenty of strength going on, you just need to get the rock technique and stamina back up to speed and you'll be crushing...
Andy
Welcome along Ed. Sounds like the fingerboarding has done you some good
Am I right in thinking you're the same Ed that Ali and I met with Rachel B a year or so back in N Wales? What did you do to the ankle?
Good luck with the goals - sounds like you've got plenty of strength going on, you just need to get the rock technique and stamina back up to speed and you'll be crushing...
Andy
In reply to AJM:
Pretty well, since I got third male solo (first grown-up athletics prize of my life!), but that's with no IainR's to race against...
http://www.petestack.com/blog/running/first-athletics-prize-for-four-decade...
Yep, thanks, it's an encouraging return and I'm so keen to get back climbing more now!
M: [22.1] Rest
T: [21.4] Allt a' Choire Odhair-mhoir, 6.6 miles/1,500 ft
W: [21.7] Single big lap with cross-country, c.4.9 miles
T: [19.5] Short Grey Mare's, 2.6 miles/700 ft
F: [19.5] Rest
S: [72.5] 10 in the Glen, 53.0 miles/5,800 ft and third place!
S: [67.1] Rest
Current Goals (just about due for replacement by a new list, with only an unlikely Rigby left on this one):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June: BUST! (23RD FROM 154 IN 20:44:26)
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July: TICK (3RD MALE SOLO!)
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> petestack - how did 10 in the glen go?
Pretty well, since I got third male solo (first grown-up athletics prize of my life!), but that's with no IainR's to race against...
http://www.petestack.com/blog/running/first-athletics-prize-for-four-decade...
> Nice one on the routes too.
Yep, thanks, it's an encouraging return and I'm so keen to get back climbing more now!
M: [22.1] Rest
T: [21.4] Allt a' Choire Odhair-mhoir, 6.6 miles/1,500 ft
W: [21.7] Single big lap with cross-country, c.4.9 miles
T: [19.5] Short Grey Mare's, 2.6 miles/700 ft
F: [19.5] Rest
S: [72.5] 10 in the Glen, 53.0 miles/5,800 ft and third place!
S: [67.1] Rest
Current Goals (just about due for replacement by a new list, with only an unlikely Rigby left on this one):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June: BUST! (23RD FROM 154 IN 20:44:26)
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July: TICK (3RD MALE SOLO!)
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to AJM:
M - 1.5hrs Kayaking on the Dee (doing my 1/2 stars)
T - Rest
W - Bouldering at the Breck
T - Rest
F - Small amount of core work
S - Shopping for masquerade mask and stuff for party (it's hard work getting dragged around shops against my will)
S - Hungover
M - 1.5hrs Kayaking on the Dee (doing my 1/2 stars)
T - Rest
W - Bouldering at the Breck
T - Rest
F - Small amount of core work
S - Shopping for masquerade mask and stuff for party (it's hard work getting dragged around shops against my will)
S - Hungover
In reply to AJM:
Quiet week after being away. Updated goals.
M:
T:
W: Burbage Bridge Bouldering - working a V4
T:
F:
S:
S: Foundry bouldering - completed the new Level 1 circuit (onsight apart from one problem)
STG: Climb 5 new V4 or above problems (E.g. Traverse into Go West, Crucifix trav, Millers Tale SS)
MTG: Need to set running and climbing goals for Autumn
LTG: Lead Grade IV in winter season, Complete a Alpine "D" route next year
Quiet week after being away. Updated goals.
M:
T:
W: Burbage Bridge Bouldering - working a V4
T:
F:
S:
S: Foundry bouldering - completed the new Level 1 circuit (onsight apart from one problem)
STG: Climb 5 new V4 or above problems (E.g. Traverse into Go West, Crucifix trav, Millers Tale SS)
MTG: Need to set running and climbing goals for Autumn
LTG: Lead Grade IV in winter season, Complete a Alpine "D" route next year
In reply to AJM:
STG (August):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1
MTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
LTG March 2011
TBC ..
Last weeks goals:
Climbing at the weekend on rock. Tick three crags two types of rock
At least two sessions Tick
M: Rest
T: Core. 100 movements
W: 1hour bouldering at buckstones till midges forced us away flashing loads of problems up to font5
T: core. 150 movements
F Rokt 4 hours. took my 2 year old nephew. he stay for an hour I warmed up while spotting him. Then started off by climbing the 6b+ on the lead wall first try. then running laps up and down the 21m lead wall.
S: Football training. 1.5 hours running my bollocks off!
S: Rokt 3 hours. Warmed up and did a hard steep pink problem. which felt good to get done with a little bit of work.
TR Flashed 6b climbing up flashed 6a down climbing finished by climbing up the 6a again. Worked and got a 6c second try. flashed a 6a+ to finish me off. Had a good rest then lead wall.
Climbed up a 6b on the slab and down climbed a 5 while pumped. Tried to TR a 7a managed the crux felt weak.
This weeks goals:
At least two sessions
Another good week. The training is working I am getting stronger and fitter. Hopefully all this training should pay off on the real stuff when the weather improves again.
> grubes - sounds like a good weekend. Whats Rubicon like for punter grade bouldering?
STG (August):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1
MTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
LTG March 2011
TBC ..
Last weeks goals:
Climbing at the weekend on rock. Tick three crags two types of rock
At least two sessions Tick
M: Rest
T: Core. 100 movements
W: 1hour bouldering at buckstones till midges forced us away flashing loads of problems up to font5
T: core. 150 movements
F Rokt 4 hours. took my 2 year old nephew. he stay for an hour I warmed up while spotting him. Then started off by climbing the 6b+ on the lead wall first try. then running laps up and down the 21m lead wall.
S: Football training. 1.5 hours running my bollocks off!
S: Rokt 3 hours. Warmed up and did a hard steep pink problem. which felt good to get done with a little bit of work.
TR Flashed 6b climbing up flashed 6a down climbing finished by climbing up the 6a again. Worked and got a 6c second try. flashed a 6a+ to finish me off. Had a good rest then lead wall.
Climbed up a 6b on the slab and down climbed a 5 while pumped. Tried to TR a 7a managed the crux felt weak.
This weeks goals:
At least two sessions
Another good week. The training is working I am getting stronger and fitter. Hopefully all this training should pay off on the real stuff when the weather improves again.
In reply to AJM:
Rubicon is cool at the punter grades. The problems are awesome and the rock is cool its nice to pull hard on steep ground and beable to complete the problems
Rubicon is cool at the punter grades. The problems are awesome and the rock is cool its nice to pull hard on steep ground and beable to complete the problems
In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM, motivation is hard to keep consistent isn't it when thwarted by weather, availability of partners? Hope you keep on going, if you were having a half year review, it's been very successful, no?
M
T: Physio, back ok, but will keep on happening if I don't sort my hamstrings out....ok to climb
W:
T: kilnsey, the worst venue in the uk for a session when you're trying to take it easy? tentative up Open Road ( 6c ), three trips up pegged E5/E4 territory on top rope - prob about 7a+, final Open Road to finish. bit sore by the end.
F:
S:
S: weather beyond dire, Harrogate Wall, OK session, very achy at end, do some stretching tonight, fingers crossed.
Cheers AJM, motivation is hard to keep consistent isn't it when thwarted by weather, availability of partners? Hope you keep on going, if you were having a half year review, it's been very successful, no?
M
T: Physio, back ok, but will keep on happening if I don't sort my hamstrings out....ok to climb
W:
T: kilnsey, the worst venue in the uk for a session when you're trying to take it easy? tentative up Open Road ( 6c ), three trips up pegged E5/E4 territory on top rope - prob about 7a+, final Open Road to finish. bit sore by the end.
F:
S:
S: weather beyond dire, Harrogate Wall, OK session, very achy at end, do some stretching tonight, fingers crossed.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. Very keen to hook up with you guys again at Malham so looking forward to September.
STG (by end of 2011): wasted youth, something stupid or similar graded routes at kilnsey.
Tues: indoor bouldering went for trying stuff at my limit with varying success. Still don't feel strong but definitely less weak.
Wed: injury prevention stuff! Finally got round to doing some, feel a lot better for doing so.
Thurs: Craig Y longridge. Felt much stronger on the traverses than last time, think the conditions were miles better. looking to link a couple of sections together to tick what I've been told is a 7b equivalent route (which feels about right)
Fri: cycled to work with a bit more gusto than before, knocked 5mins each way off previous time, think I'll be able to step that up more.
Sun: Routes indoors. Thought I'd be pathetic as i've not done any routes for ages and got shut down on a really good 7a+ but flashed a 7a so not all bad. Ran out of stamina quite quickly though and struggled on a vertical 22m 6c. Good to get a proper pump on though.
The transition from time off to full fitness is progressing OK, won't know how much I've lost until I get back on some Yorkshire Limestone. I'm really enjoying all the training whether indoor or out. Plus this week a rather motivated climbing partner is moving nearby so I'll have someone to train properly for routes with. Whoop.
Thanks Andy. Very keen to hook up with you guys again at Malham so looking forward to September.
STG (by end of 2011): wasted youth, something stupid or similar graded routes at kilnsey.
Tues: indoor bouldering went for trying stuff at my limit with varying success. Still don't feel strong but definitely less weak.
Wed: injury prevention stuff! Finally got round to doing some, feel a lot better for doing so.
Thurs: Craig Y longridge. Felt much stronger on the traverses than last time, think the conditions were miles better. looking to link a couple of sections together to tick what I've been told is a 7b equivalent route (which feels about right)
Fri: cycled to work with a bit more gusto than before, knocked 5mins each way off previous time, think I'll be able to step that up more.
Sun: Routes indoors. Thought I'd be pathetic as i've not done any routes for ages and got shut down on a really good 7a+ but flashed a 7a so not all bad. Ran out of stamina quite quickly though and struggled on a vertical 22m 6c. Good to get a proper pump on though.
The transition from time off to full fitness is progressing OK, won't know how much I've lost until I get back on some Yorkshire Limestone. I'm really enjoying all the training whether indoor or out. Plus this week a rather motivated climbing partner is moving nearby so I'll have someone to train properly for routes with. Whoop.
In reply to AJM:
Hi Andy, yes I think it was - on top of the Cromlech boulders? You'll be pleased to know I've given up smoking now!
Little known to me, the ankle was actually broken at that point from a fall I took in April. Took them til December to diagnose it and the til June to operate! It was ok over that summer but gradually got worse and worse.
Yeh I'm feeling really good with the strength actually. Just have to resist the temptation to keep focussing on that because I'm getting good at it! Big mental effort to get in loads of climbing hours and endurance and drag myself away from the fingerboard routine I've been doing for the last few months.
Hi Andy, yes I think it was - on top of the Cromlech boulders? You'll be pleased to know I've given up smoking now!
Little known to me, the ankle was actually broken at that point from a fall I took in April. Took them til December to diagnose it and the til June to operate! It was ok over that summer but gradually got worse and worse.
Yeh I'm feeling really good with the strength actually. Just have to resist the temptation to keep focussing on that because I'm getting good at it! Big mental effort to get in loads of climbing hours and endurance and drag myself away from the fingerboard routine I've been doing for the last few months.
In reply to richardh:
Oh definitely, no question.
I think I'm just thinking that taking the intensity down for a week or two might help stop the finger from getting worse and might recharge me. I think I'm sort of lacking a project at the minute, which probably doesn't help - I reckon a good day where I find something hard enough and inspiring enough I'll be back at full psyche again.
There's a few things I fancy, but the north slope crags at cheddar are generally a bit smaller so there's fewer routes per crag, meaning partner preferences have more importance in trying to find a crag that's got something for us both, so I can't just decide on a project as easily as on the south side.
> Hope you keep on going, if you were having a half year review, it's been very successful, no?
Oh definitely, no question.
I think I'm just thinking that taking the intensity down for a week or two might help stop the finger from getting worse and might recharge me. I think I'm sort of lacking a project at the minute, which probably doesn't help - I reckon a good day where I find something hard enough and inspiring enough I'll be back at full psyche again.
There's a few things I fancy, but the north slope crags at cheddar are generally a bit smaller so there's fewer routes per crag, meaning partner preferences have more importance in trying to find a crag that's got something for us both, so I can't just decide on a project as easily as on the south side.
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:
That's the one, yes.
Sounds like a bad piece of luck on the ankle, especially the lengthy diagnosis!
Given both your route goals are reasonably long (or at least, not 10m bouldery numbers!), I reckon that'll give you the drive to get out there and get pumped...
That's the one, yes.
Sounds like a bad piece of luck on the ankle, especially the lengthy diagnosis!
Given both your route goals are reasonably long (or at least, not 10m bouldery numbers!), I reckon that'll give you the drive to get out there and get pumped...
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy.
Psyche is hard to maintain all the time. If it's not there i don't think you can force it. It may be your body letting you know it's time for an easy week or so.
Massively busy week at work. 10 ghyll sessions and a 3 peaks. However i still managed to fit in some bouldering with 2 sessions at the Bowderstone but nothing of note achieved.
I have 9 days left before we leave the Lakes. I am going to focus on Picnic Sarcastic, Strong Arete and Hueco Crack Cave start - all 7a+. If i can get 2 of them done i'll be happy. I think Strong Arete and Hueco are the most likely.
On the plus side my fatness had started to creep back but this week at work and watching what i eat has led to a 1.8kg loss and 1.5% body fat reduction. Possibly not the healthiest way to do it.
COME ON THE WEATHER ! I've not got long left.
Cheers Andy.
Psyche is hard to maintain all the time. If it's not there i don't think you can force it. It may be your body letting you know it's time for an easy week or so.
Massively busy week at work. 10 ghyll sessions and a 3 peaks. However i still managed to fit in some bouldering with 2 sessions at the Bowderstone but nothing of note achieved.
I have 9 days left before we leave the Lakes. I am going to focus on Picnic Sarcastic, Strong Arete and Hueco Crack Cave start - all 7a+. If i can get 2 of them done i'll be happy. I think Strong Arete and Hueco are the most likely.
On the plus side my fatness had started to creep back but this week at work and watching what i eat has led to a 1.8kg loss and 1.5% body fat reduction. Possibly not the healthiest way to do it.
COME ON THE WEATHER ! I've not got long left.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM. As I think you live nearish me, if you need a climbing partner/belayer, feel free to drop me a line. It's the same distance from my place to the Avon crags as it is to the Wye Valley.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 7lbs
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 4lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - T - Rest
W - 7 mile run with 500m of ascent
T - S - Knackered ankle
Went out for a run with one of the local fell running clubs, the Mynydd Du on Wednesday for a training run, which was good fun apart from getting dropped in the first mile on the first climb and then falling over and tweaking my ankle. Despite that stunning description, it was a great sunny evening and they were all nice and friendly. So along with the shitty weather over the weekend, I've done nothing. I had been planning on running the Pen-y-fan race, but the ankle is still dodgy. We'll see how it recovers over the next few days as to how it's going to affect next week.
Thanks AJM. As I think you live nearish me, if you need a climbing partner/belayer, feel free to drop me a line. It's the same distance from my place to the Avon crags as it is to the Wye Valley.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 7lbs
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 4lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - T - Rest
W - 7 mile run with 500m of ascent
T - S - Knackered ankle
Went out for a run with one of the local fell running clubs, the Mynydd Du on Wednesday for a training run, which was good fun apart from getting dropped in the first mile on the first climb and then falling over and tweaking my ankle. Despite that stunning description, it was a great sunny evening and they were all nice and friendly. So along with the shitty weather over the weekend, I've done nothing. I had been planning on running the Pen-y-fan race, but the ankle is still dodgy. We'll see how it recovers over the next few days as to how it's going to affect next week.
In reply to AJM: Cheers.
Still no running due to (now healing) big toe injury, so this week was just a cycle commute to work on Tuesday, withg 26 miles of briskish, flattish riding, and a wet and windy 55 miler yesterday with some big lumps over Greenhow and out of Pateley Bridge.
This week may be a struggle too, as I don't think my toe's up to running yet and we're off to York for the weekend next week. May see if our lass'll let me bike over there to get a few miles in.
Still no running due to (now healing) big toe injury, so this week was just a cycle commute to work on Tuesday, withg 26 miles of briskish, flattish riding, and a wet and windy 55 miler yesterday with some big lumps over Greenhow and out of Pateley Bridge.
This week may be a struggle too, as I don't think my toe's up to running yet and we're off to York for the weekend next week. May see if our lass'll let me bike over there to get a few miles in.
In reply to biscuit:
Good luck biscuit.
> (In reply to AJM)
> I have 9 days left before we leave the Lakes. I am going to focus on Picnic Sarcastic, Strong Arete and Hueco Crack Cave start - all 7a+. If i can get 2 of them done i'll be happy. I think Strong Arete and Hueco are the most likely.
> I have 9 days left before we leave the Lakes. I am going to focus on Picnic Sarcastic, Strong Arete and Hueco Crack Cave start - all 7a+. If i can get 2 of them done i'll be happy. I think Strong Arete and Hueco are the most likely.
Good luck biscuit.
Mon - 7 miles/1700' Y Ro Wen loop
Tue - 9 miles/2700' hilly trail run
Wed - 15 miles/4600' Carneddau leg of PB with a bit added on, great weather
Thu-Sat - nothing, busy with work
Sun - away for the day so didnt get a chance to fit anything in
Tue - 9 miles/2700' hilly trail run
Wed - 15 miles/4600' Carneddau leg of PB with a bit added on, great weather
Thu-Sat - nothing, busy with work
Sun - away for the day so didnt get a chance to fit anything in
In reply to AJM:
Nothing exciting I'm afraid.
M: Nothing - busy with work
T: 4.5mile trail/beach run
W: Nothing - busy with work
T: 9mile trail run Sychnant Pass/Druid Circles - beautiful evening
F: 9.5mile beach run Conwy/Penmaenmawr
S: 13mile fell run circuit of Tal Y Fan from Sychnant Pass - foul weather
S: 4mile trail run Conwy Woods
Nothing exciting I'm afraid.
M: Nothing - busy with work
T: 4.5mile trail/beach run
W: Nothing - busy with work
T: 9mile trail run Sychnant Pass/Druid Circles - beautiful evening
F: 9.5mile beach run Conwy/Penmaenmawr
S: 13mile fell run circuit of Tal Y Fan from Sychnant Pass - foul weather
S: 4mile trail run Conwy Woods
In reply to grubes:
Cheers mate.
With this weather i may need it. Luckily St Bees and Eskdale dry quick and Picnic is on the ladder face of the Bowderstone so all should be OK, I hope.
I see you're thinking of a Chorro trip in Nov. You'llhave to get in touch when you come over. Be good to meet up.
> (In reply to biscuit)
> [...]
>
> Good luck biscuit.
> [...]
>
> Good luck biscuit.
Cheers mate.
With this weather i may need it. Luckily St Bees and Eskdale dry quick and Picnic is on the ladder face of the Bowderstone so all should be OK, I hope.
I see you're thinking of a Chorro trip in Nov. You'llhave to get in touch when you come over. Be good to meet up.
In reply to biscuit:
Yea I am booked into the olive branch for 8 days should be a good trip. I will get in touch closer to the time.
Its the reason I am really pushing myself indoors at the moment I want to be the strongst and fittest I have ever been by the time I get there.
There is a possiblity I may be in borrowdale this weekend but doubt I will end up at the bowderstone as the people will only want to do multipitch (which is not so bad). Plus the bowderstone is a little beyond me at the moment.
Yea I am booked into the olive branch for 8 days should be a good trip. I will get in touch closer to the time.
Its the reason I am really pushing myself indoors at the moment I want to be the strongst and fittest I have ever been by the time I get there.
There is a possiblity I may be in borrowdale this weekend but doubt I will end up at the bowderstone as the people will only want to do multipitch (which is not so bad). Plus the bowderstone is a little beyond me at the moment.
Thank you AJM:
I need some new goals. They will include:
at least 5 new Munro ticks by the end of the year (stretch goal: 10)
lead at least one route outdoors
M: nothing
Tu: WENT CLIMBING!!!! Auchinstarry quarry, seconded 5 routes up to severe. I've just added them to my logbook on here and the last climbs I logged were in June 2010. I was very surprised at how well I managed, as I expected to find being a long way above the ground an issue, given that I have not been there for a while. I was probably helped by the fact that the routes were not that long and were quite slabby. Unsurprisingly, my hands got trashed quite quickly, and my arms ached for a couple of days afterwards...
W: easy 30 minute run, 5km ish. Legs felt tired.
Th: swimming after work, shortish (1200 yd) set, felt tired.
F: another easy 30 minute/5k ish run, felt better
Sa: went out on bike for 1h 30 or so, felt really good and hoofed it up the hill - 38km, average speed 26kmh.
Su: 50 minute run with a bit more effort, felt fine untill I slowed for a 5 minute warm down when I suddenly felt tired!
>
> fimm - awesome effort, brilliant result! Serious mind-bogglage from this end too!
Thank you very much.> fimm - awesome effort, brilliant result! Serious mind-bogglage from this end too!
I need some new goals. They will include:
at least 5 new Munro ticks by the end of the year (stretch goal: 10)
lead at least one route outdoors
M: nothing
Tu: WENT CLIMBING!!!! Auchinstarry quarry, seconded 5 routes up to severe. I've just added them to my logbook on here and the last climbs I logged were in June 2010. I was very surprised at how well I managed, as I expected to find being a long way above the ground an issue, given that I have not been there for a while. I was probably helped by the fact that the routes were not that long and were quite slabby. Unsurprisingly, my hands got trashed quite quickly, and my arms ached for a couple of days afterwards...
W: easy 30 minute run, 5km ish. Legs felt tired.
Th: swimming after work, shortish (1200 yd) set, felt tired.
F: another easy 30 minute/5k ish run, felt better
Sa: went out on bike for 1h 30 or so, felt really good and hoofed it up the hill - 38km, average speed 26kmh.
Su: 50 minute run with a bit more effort, felt fine untill I slowed for a 5 minute warm down when I suddenly felt tired!
In reply to fimm:
Och, you can do that in a day...
Or two?
Ha, we're all getting back to it now, eh?
> at least 5 new Munro ticks by the end of the year
Och, you can do that in a day...
> (stretch goal: 10)
Or two?
> Tu: WENT CLIMBING!!!! Auchinstarry quarry, seconded 5 routes up to severe. I've just added them to my logbook on here and the last climbs I logged were in June 2010.
Ha, we're all getting back to it now, eh?
In reply to petestack:
Doesn't that depend where the new ones are!
> (In reply to fimm)
> [...]
>
> Och, you can do that in a day...
> Or two?
>
> [...]
>
> Och, you can do that in a day...
> Or two?
>
Doesn't that depend where the new ones are!
In reply to Liam M:
What, you're suggesting it's affected by how many you've done and how many awkward isolated 'singletons' you're still chasing?
> Doesn't that depend where the new ones are!
What, you're suggesting it's affected by how many you've done and how many awkward isolated 'singletons' you're still chasing?
In reply to petestack:
Some of us prefer to bag our Munros at sensible speeds
On the other hand, you do have a point, I have not done the South Glen Sheil Ridge yet...
Some of us prefer to bag our Munros at sensible speeds
On the other hand, you do have a point, I have not done the South Glen Sheil Ridge yet...
In reply to grubes:
cool just get in touch nearer the time i am sure we can find you a suitable 6c :0)
i am away this weekend anyway visiting people b4 we go.
cool just get in touch nearer the time i am sure we can find you a suitable 6c :0)
i am away this weekend anyway visiting people b4 we go.
In reply to AJM:
STG: 3 core sessions(failed). Try some new hypertrophy exercises (failed).
MTG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July).
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(3), 10*e1(7)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.2
Focus: Hypertrophy (2/3)(2/3)
Mon: Rest.
Tue: Trad Froggatt (Max HVS).
Wed: VIR.
Thu: Core (347). Weights.
Fri: Teaching a friend to lead.
Sat: Push-ups & Pull-ups(116) + weights.
Sun: Trad (max HVS). Sport (max 6b). 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V3,V3). Repeaters (16)
Thanks AJM. I feel like I am going well, just wish I had more time to spend on the rock.
Another light week on the training front due to tiredness & some personal commitments. I am really struggling to be motivated for core training since my holiday.
Managed Chequers Crack on Tuesday night. Doesn't mean anything in terms of my targets but it's one of those routes with a big reputation, I was really glad to make it OS.
Went climbing with my wife on Sunday, weather was a bit crap so we kept it easy. Luckily, when the heavens finaly opened it was her on a route and not me
Strange training session on Sunday night, I was crap apart from the fact I did really really well on the 45o slopers?!?!?!
STG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July).
STG: 3 core sessions(failed). Try some new hypertrophy exercises (failed).
MTG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July).
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(3), 10*e1(7)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.2
Focus: Hypertrophy (2/3)(2/3)
Mon: Rest.
Tue: Trad Froggatt (Max HVS).
Wed: VIR.
Thu: Core (347). Weights.
Fri: Teaching a friend to lead.
Sat: Push-ups & Pull-ups(116) + weights.
Sun: Trad (max HVS). Sport (max 6b). 30 mins ARC. 4x4(V2,V2,V3,V3). Repeaters (16)
Thanks AJM. I feel like I am going well, just wish I had more time to spend on the rock.
Another light week on the training front due to tiredness & some personal commitments. I am really struggling to be motivated for core training since my holiday.
Managed Chequers Crack on Tuesday night. Doesn't mean anything in terms of my targets but it's one of those routes with a big reputation, I was really glad to make it OS.
Went climbing with my wife on Sunday, weather was a bit crap so we kept it easy. Luckily, when the heavens finaly opened it was her on a route and not me
Strange training session on Sunday night, I was crap apart from the fact I did really really well on the 45o slopers?!?!?!
STG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July).
In reply to AJM:
Aggghhh, another shitty week, didn't do anything as had a cold all week and was really busy at work.
Feeling a bit unfit and grumpy!
Might not post next week as I think I'll be in Pakistan. Should be back the following week tho.
Aggghhh, another shitty week, didn't do anything as had a cold all week and was really busy at work.
Feeling a bit unfit and grumpy!
Might not post next week as I think I'll be in Pakistan. Should be back the following week tho.
Hi everyone,
I've been lurking here for quite some time, so I thought it might be time to take the plunge and actually contribute something myself. If nothing else, it might serve to help me a bit more structured and at least better at keeping a proper training diary. I don't really know many people on here -- I've bumped in to plexiglass_nick and Curious Yellow on several occasions, and I think that it might have been Kevster (but I could be wrong) who pointed out that I wasn't really doing Chulilla when I thought I was doing Chulilla earlier this year at Brean Down.
I've been climbing for just over three years and have been training fairly ambitiously for most of that time. I've managed to keep improving, but not as consistently nor as fast as I'd like (isn't that always the case!).
Mon - nowt
Tue - Bouldering at Westway. First indoor session for two weeks as I was off getting married. Out of shape, but not as bad as feared. Many easier problems and one V6. The easiest one, probably. Found most everything really hard. Finished by campusing and core. Tried to do 1-4-1-3-1 on smallest rungs with some mixed results.
Wed - nowt
Thu - Bouldering at WW. Still wrecked from Tuesday, so I did what I could manage...
Fri - nowt
Sat - Boulder at WW. Some progress on harder problems, some repeats, some new easier ticks. A slightly better campus session.
Sun - Small BM session in the morning. Bouldering and routes at WW in the afternoon.
Overall an ok week; not nearly as weak as I had feared, but body did not cope with the volume as it would normally. Or maybe I just managed to go a bit harder? Strength/power will remain focus for another two weeks (hopefully interspersed with some outdoor climbing at portland or elsewhere) before transitioning over to endurance.
Goals:
Short-term: undecided
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (2/4); 7b+ (7/8). Bring on-sight level up to 7a+ (seems to be around 7a at the moment).
Long-term: onsight 8a (one must dream big)
Jonas
I've been lurking here for quite some time, so I thought it might be time to take the plunge and actually contribute something myself. If nothing else, it might serve to help me a bit more structured and at least better at keeping a proper training diary. I don't really know many people on here -- I've bumped in to plexiglass_nick and Curious Yellow on several occasions, and I think that it might have been Kevster (but I could be wrong) who pointed out that I wasn't really doing Chulilla when I thought I was doing Chulilla earlier this year at Brean Down.
I've been climbing for just over three years and have been training fairly ambitiously for most of that time. I've managed to keep improving, but not as consistently nor as fast as I'd like (isn't that always the case!).
Mon - nowt
Tue - Bouldering at Westway. First indoor session for two weeks as I was off getting married. Out of shape, but not as bad as feared. Many easier problems and one V6. The easiest one, probably. Found most everything really hard. Finished by campusing and core. Tried to do 1-4-1-3-1 on smallest rungs with some mixed results.
Wed - nowt
Thu - Bouldering at WW. Still wrecked from Tuesday, so I did what I could manage...
Fri - nowt
Sat - Boulder at WW. Some progress on harder problems, some repeats, some new easier ticks. A slightly better campus session.
Sun - Small BM session in the morning. Bouldering and routes at WW in the afternoon.
Overall an ok week; not nearly as weak as I had feared, but body did not cope with the volume as it would normally. Or maybe I just managed to go a bit harder? Strength/power will remain focus for another two weeks (hopefully interspersed with some outdoor climbing at portland or elsewhere) before transitioning over to endurance.
Goals:
Short-term: undecided
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (2/4); 7b+ (7/8). Bring on-sight level up to 7a+ (seems to be around 7a at the moment).
Long-term: onsight 8a (one must dream big)
Jonas
In reply to AJM: Cheers. Am getting very tempted to enter another quite soon, but I'll see.
Mon-Wed: Nothing. Busy with work etc and feeling fairly tired so took a few days off.
Thu: 32k steady road cycle, followed by short hill sprint session.
Fri: c15k easy mountain biking, though I did manage to roll myself quite painfully down a gully with the bike on top of me at one point!
Sat: Pontefract Park Run. 21.06. Legs felt heavy, and my knee felt a little sore (think I'd hit it in the fall the day before) so eased off for second half. Road cycling intervals, inc. 5x1k sprints, 5x c500m hills and a 2k sprint at end.
Sun: 12k easy mountain biking, mainly around Gisburn. Happy with how I did on some of the red graded routes, though cut it short as H wasn't liking it.
Fairly light week, but that was intended, though still managed some decent little speed sessions. Intending to get back to a more full training schedule this week.
I've entered the Yorkshireman Half Marathon, and Leicester Marathon, so before long they'll have to become my focus. I'm also probably going to do the Manchester 100 Sportive, so need some longer sessions on the bike.
Mon-Wed: Nothing. Busy with work etc and feeling fairly tired so took a few days off.
Thu: 32k steady road cycle, followed by short hill sprint session.
Fri: c15k easy mountain biking, though I did manage to roll myself quite painfully down a gully with the bike on top of me at one point!
Sat: Pontefract Park Run. 21.06. Legs felt heavy, and my knee felt a little sore (think I'd hit it in the fall the day before) so eased off for second half. Road cycling intervals, inc. 5x1k sprints, 5x c500m hills and a 2k sprint at end.
Sun: 12k easy mountain biking, mainly around Gisburn. Happy with how I did on some of the red graded routes, though cut it short as H wasn't liking it.
Fairly light week, but that was intended, though still managed some decent little speed sessions. Intending to get back to a more full training schedule this week.
I've entered the Yorkshireman Half Marathon, and Leicester Marathon, so before long they'll have to become my focus. I'm also probably going to do the Manchester 100 Sportive, so need some longer sessions on the bike.
In reply to fimm: Someone recommended the South Glen Shiel Ridge as a nice hill run (I said, steady on, I'm not that fit!) However, I think it would be a lovely run. Once you're up on the ridge it's really easy going.
I didn't get back out on my 6b this week as I've been away up North.
Mon - Up Ben Hope via the North Ridge. We bailed from doing the scramble at the top as it looked a bit harder than Diff and it was raining and the sandstone was really slipperly. So went round a gully at the back instead. Out for 6hrs 20mins.
Tue - Up Ben Klibreck via the Crask Inn. Out for 7hrs 10mins.
Wed - Up Conival via Inchnadamph, then across to Ben More Assynt. Dumped my sack and ran along the South Ridge to the South top and then ran back again. Walked back to Conival and then jogged bits of the way down Conival, running along alot of Gleann Dubh back to the car at Inchnadamph. Decided that I really need some proper hill running gear as running with a sack is crap. Out for about 7.5hrs
Thurs - Driving home. Stopped off at Drumochter and ran up A'Bhuidheaneach Bheag. This was a really nice run. Just took hubbys OMM sack and a compass and light windproof so wasn't too bogged down with stuff. Though running with a sack is still horrible. Out for just over 2hrs.
Fri - rest.
Sat - half an hour of yoga
Sun - nothing.
I didn't get back out on my 6b this week as I've been away up North.
Mon - Up Ben Hope via the North Ridge. We bailed from doing the scramble at the top as it looked a bit harder than Diff and it was raining and the sandstone was really slipperly. So went round a gully at the back instead. Out for 6hrs 20mins.
Tue - Up Ben Klibreck via the Crask Inn. Out for 7hrs 10mins.
Wed - Up Conival via Inchnadamph, then across to Ben More Assynt. Dumped my sack and ran along the South Ridge to the South top and then ran back again. Walked back to Conival and then jogged bits of the way down Conival, running along alot of Gleann Dubh back to the car at Inchnadamph. Decided that I really need some proper hill running gear as running with a sack is crap. Out for about 7.5hrs
Thurs - Driving home. Stopped off at Drumochter and ran up A'Bhuidheaneach Bheag. This was a really nice run. Just took hubbys OMM sack and a compass and light windproof so wasn't too bogged down with stuff. Though running with a sack is still horrible. Out for just over 2hrs.
Fri - rest.
Sat - half an hour of yoga
Sun - nothing.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy
My focus is on the Chester Marathon in October, where I hope to get as close to a sub three hour marathon as I can. Lots of racing included in my training.
M - Rest
T - 4 mile easy run.
W - Hilly 5.5 trail race (36:27) plus warm up and down. Really good run.
T - Bull Hill Fell Race, 5.5 miles. Very heavy legs, but top third of field. Improved descending.
F - Rest.
S - 17 miles steady, mainly in heavy rain.
S - 5 miles slow.
Decent week, good race results and good long run.
Thanks Andy
My focus is on the Chester Marathon in October, where I hope to get as close to a sub three hour marathon as I can. Lots of racing included in my training.
M - Rest
T - 4 mile easy run.
W - Hilly 5.5 trail race (36:27) plus warm up and down. Really good run.
T - Bull Hill Fell Race, 5.5 miles. Very heavy legs, but top third of field. Improved descending.
F - Rest.
S - 17 miles steady, mainly in heavy rain.
S - 5 miles slow.
Decent week, good race results and good long run.
Thanks AJM, its not quite there but hopefully going in the right direction.
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again
M: 3xDB complex, BM: pull-ups & max hangs, theraband
T: long day at work
W: longer day at work
T: 40l swim, press-ups & BM: assorted pull-ups
F: theraband, 3xDB complex & 4m run
S: bouldering at Notts wall
S: Ill
A busy week at work and a wet weekend, rubbish. Looks as though the summer may be about avoiding any loss of strength/fitness rather than making any major gains as I have hardly any weekends free until September.
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again
M: 3xDB complex, BM: pull-ups & max hangs, theraband
T: long day at work
W: longer day at work
T: 40l swim, press-ups & BM: assorted pull-ups
F: theraband, 3xDB complex & 4m run
S: bouldering at Notts wall
S: Ill
A busy week at work and a wet weekend, rubbish. Looks as though the summer may be about avoiding any loss of strength/fitness rather than making any major gains as I have hardly any weekends free until September.
In reply to All:
How many of you have used the "route pyramid" idea to reach a certain grade? I've seen it mentioned by a few people on here and was wondering if it was an effective way of reaching a goal?
As my time on real rock is usually limited to bouldering/trad during the week and only sport routes at the weekend, depending on the weather, I'm not sure the seige approach is the most constructive use of my rock time whereas working through routes I can do in a couple of sessions or one sessions sounds like much more fun.
Looking at my logbook I've done 6/8 x 7a, 3/4 x 7a+ and 1/2 x 7b towards completing a 7b+ pyramid.
How many of you have used the "route pyramid" idea to reach a certain grade? I've seen it mentioned by a few people on here and was wondering if it was an effective way of reaching a goal?
As my time on real rock is usually limited to bouldering/trad during the week and only sport routes at the weekend, depending on the weather, I'm not sure the seige approach is the most constructive use of my rock time whereas working through routes I can do in a couple of sessions or one sessions sounds like much more fun.
Looking at my logbook I've done 6/8 x 7a, 3/4 x 7a+ and 1/2 x 7b towards completing a 7b+ pyramid.
In reply to Eagle River:
I used it last year. It does rely on time on rock - but i have finally learned that is the most crucial thing for most of us.
It works well as it gives you progression and confidence as you build through the numbers. You can always be 'seiging' your 7b+ whilst working on the others by giving it a go every time you go to that crag after ticking off the lower grades.
It also makes you have some structure to your outdoor sessions. I was terrible at getting distracted from what i should have been doing.
I used it last year. It does rely on time on rock - but i have finally learned that is the most crucial thing for most of us.
It works well as it gives you progression and confidence as you build through the numbers. You can always be 'seiging' your 7b+ whilst working on the others by giving it a go every time you go to that crag after ticking off the lower grades.
It also makes you have some structure to your outdoor sessions. I was terrible at getting distracted from what i should have been doing.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks for the input. I know what you mean about the time on real rock issue and I do get out locally in the evenings when it's dry but the Yorkshire Limestone is a little far for an evening climb so I don't get much time on rock that is anything like the stuff I want to climb.
However I can't fault craig y longridge for power endurance training.
I want to hit the 7b+ grade because there are some amazing looking routes at that level at Malham - Obsession, Space Race etc.
P.S. I may be hitting you up for your Spanish contact details in the future as my wife's parents live out near where you're moving to so I could throw the climbing gear in next time we visit them!
Thanks for the input. I know what you mean about the time on real rock issue and I do get out locally in the evenings when it's dry but the Yorkshire Limestone is a little far for an evening climb so I don't get much time on rock that is anything like the stuff I want to climb.
However I can't fault craig y longridge for power endurance training.
I want to hit the 7b+ grade because there are some amazing looking routes at that level at Malham - Obsession, Space Race etc.
P.S. I may be hitting you up for your Spanish contact details in the future as my wife's parents live out near where you're moving to so I could throw the climbing gear in next time we visit them!
In reply to AJM:
Mon – Arch. Back still sore but climbed anyway. Not very smart. 5x V3, 1x V4, 1x V5.
Tues – Rest.
Wedns – Castle. Started to warm up but back too painful to climb.
Thurs – Pain
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Rest.
Sun – Arch. Very cautious climb. 4x V3. Seem to have gotten away with it this time.
Hi Jonas! Give us a shout when you’re next at the Arch?
Mon – Arch. Back still sore but climbed anyway. Not very smart. 5x V3, 1x V4, 1x V5.
Tues – Rest.
Wedns – Castle. Started to warm up but back too painful to climb.
Thurs – Pain
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Rest.
Sun – Arch. Very cautious climb. 4x V3. Seem to have gotten away with it this time.
Hi Jonas! Give us a shout when you’re next at the Arch?
In reply to Eagle River:
you're on, just let me know when you're coming over.
> P.S. I may be hitting you up for your Spanish contact details in the future as my wife's parents live out near where you're moving to so I could throw the climbing gear in next time we visit them!
you're on, just let me know when you're coming over.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
More entertaining week though it could hardly be worst than the previous one. Sunday night I went up to Wales for a spot of bouldering. Monday I spent all day in the pass, visited the Cromlech roadside, Gromlech slabs, utopia, wavelength, and Grooves boulders. Good day out, generally got spanked, would have be nice to had a spotter or someone to shuffle the mat about. Tuesday I spent about 2 ½ hours at the RAC boulders, really enjoyed it, nice variation for a small area. Thursday was Ban-y-gor, only up to 6a but “Muddy Waters” proved to great fun. Saturday was pretty good session at home…wrist felt ok but didn’t push it.
Got some gigs coming up this week so it will go tits up for the climbing.
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s (tick) and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘s
Thanks Andy,
More entertaining week though it could hardly be worst than the previous one. Sunday night I went up to Wales for a spot of bouldering. Monday I spent all day in the pass, visited the Cromlech roadside, Gromlech slabs, utopia, wavelength, and Grooves boulders. Good day out, generally got spanked, would have be nice to had a spotter or someone to shuffle the mat about. Tuesday I spent about 2 ½ hours at the RAC boulders, really enjoyed it, nice variation for a small area. Thursday was Ban-y-gor, only up to 6a but “Muddy Waters” proved to great fun. Saturday was pretty good session at home…wrist felt ok but didn’t push it.
Got some gigs coming up this week so it will go tits up for the climbing.
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s (tick) and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘s
In reply to AJM:
Seriously poor week that is barely worth posting! On Monday, I warmed up at the boulder gym and realized I was too tired from the previous two days. Wednesday, short boulder session at Myllis trying Pot Smoker 7A, struggled to get to previous high point: not even close to tick. The rest of the week was spent with the family and not climbing. I have a feeling this week will go that way too. Perhaps some very early morning sessions could rectify it.
Seriously poor week that is barely worth posting! On Monday, I warmed up at the boulder gym and realized I was too tired from the previous two days. Wednesday, short boulder session at Myllis trying Pot Smoker 7A, struggled to get to previous high point: not even close to tick. The rest of the week was spent with the family and not climbing. I have a feeling this week will go that way too. Perhaps some very early morning sessions could rectify it.
In reply to Eagle River:
I've found it pretty good for me. 2 years or so ago I had a pyramid that could better be described as a needle with a hole in it - 2 7as and a 7b. I found eventually that I had to go back down and work out a wider base before I could push the grades any more. And for me a pyramid helps motivate me to keep working to get a wide range of routes in across the grades and styles.
Incidentally - psyche has returned. Finger gave no gyp and a project was re-identified and all but crushed at the same time... Complete failure on the "sticking to aerocap" plan mind you
I've found it pretty good for me. 2 years or so ago I had a pyramid that could better be described as a needle with a hole in it - 2 7as and a 7b. I found eventually that I had to go back down and work out a wider base before I could push the grades any more. And for me a pyramid helps motivate me to keep working to get a wide range of routes in across the grades and styles.
Incidentally - psyche has returned. Finger gave no gyp and a project was re-identified and all but crushed at the same time... Complete failure on the "sticking to aerocap" plan mind you
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
Good to hear the psyche is back, I'm ridiculously keen at the moment!
I think completing the pyramid would happen eventually anyway but focusing on doing it before hammering away at a 7b+ sounds like a good idea. So far longer routes are missing from the pyramid and I could throw in against the grain (7a), yosemite wall (7a+) and taking the space (7b) all at malham which would involve a lot of climbing on the same bit of wall where space race is so should set me up nicely. Time to get some stamina....
Thanks Andy,
Good to hear the psyche is back, I'm ridiculously keen at the moment!
I think completing the pyramid would happen eventually anyway but focusing on doing it before hammering away at a 7b+ sounds like a good idea. So far longer routes are missing from the pyramid and I could throw in against the grain (7a), yosemite wall (7a+) and taking the space (7b) all at malham which would involve a lot of climbing on the same bit of wall where space race is so should set me up nicely. Time to get some stamina....
In reply to Eagle River:
Sounds like a good plan to me. Yosemite Wall is definitely on my list for Sept (together maybe with 7th Aardvark), and as Nick pointed out doing Taking the Space gets you a sequence for half of Space Race and so shortens the time required for that one...
Sounds like a good plan to me. Yosemite Wall is definitely on my list for Sept (together maybe with 7th Aardvark), and as Nick pointed out doing Taking the Space gets you a sequence for half of Space Race and so shortens the time required for that one...
In reply to AJM:
Seventh Aardvark is brilliant and I've been on Space Race and have done the three sections separately but I'm way off having the stamina to link them so I hope by spending time on equal length routes will help with that.
Seventh Aardvark is brilliant and I've been on Space Race and have done the three sections separately but I'm way off having the stamina to link them so I hope by spending time on equal length routes will help with that.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy.
By Sept 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham or Kilnsey?
By end 2011
8a
Last week aimed to target PE and anaerobic endurance.
M - rest
T - Circuits @ Arch. Attempts at 80 move circuit(8a?). 2nd half clean. 1st half in 3 incomplete sections. Many goes.
W - Bouldering @ Castle. Intended on some crimp circuits. Warmed up to V5, but then so tired I couldn't string two problems together. Fatigue peak indeed!
T - rest
F - rest
S - Routes @ Portland, Cuttings. Refresher on Blowing the Gimp 7a+
S - Routes @ Portland, Cuttings. Warmed up getting the clips in and cleaning Blowing the Gimp, then ticked it. Refreshed and improved sequence for Mouth Waters 7a+, some 2+ years since I tried it? Felt okay and keen to finish this off too. Slowly closing off projects.
Cheers Andy.
By Sept 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham or Kilnsey?
By end 2011
8a
Last week aimed to target PE and anaerobic endurance.
M - rest
T - Circuits @ Arch. Attempts at 80 move circuit(8a?). 2nd half clean. 1st half in 3 incomplete sections. Many goes.
W - Bouldering @ Castle. Intended on some crimp circuits. Warmed up to V5, but then so tired I couldn't string two problems together. Fatigue peak indeed!
T - rest
F - rest
S - Routes @ Portland, Cuttings. Refresher on Blowing the Gimp 7a+
S - Routes @ Portland, Cuttings. Warmed up getting the clips in and cleaning Blowing the Gimp, then ticked it. Refreshed and improved sequence for Mouth Waters 7a+, some 2+ years since I tried it? Felt okay and keen to finish this off too. Slowly closing off projects.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers, climbing is slack at the moment. Weather and partner malaise.
Made it to N Wales last weekend, barely a partner with similar ambitions in sight, S, HS, VS, HVS, E1 then it rained and I went home. Pleased with the confidence on the trad. Shame the sequence couldn't follow as I had the next up in my sights too.
Weekend before went to swanage, again, lower grade trad upto HVS.
Wall stuff is also slack, tried the hard greys again, just need to hold on longer and it's in the bag.
Outside is so motivating, yet the opportunities at the moment are thin.
It'll come with time. Last hard for me sport climb I tried was at easter.
Though I am trad this weekend, a few weeks off, yorkshire and then Lundy a couple of weeks after. Plenty to look forward to and some real potential...
Hopefully the weather and partner gods will smile!
Ta , Kev
Thanks, Kev
Cheers, climbing is slack at the moment. Weather and partner malaise.
Made it to N Wales last weekend, barely a partner with similar ambitions in sight, S, HS, VS, HVS, E1 then it rained and I went home. Pleased with the confidence on the trad. Shame the sequence couldn't follow as I had the next up in my sights too.
Weekend before went to swanage, again, lower grade trad upto HVS.
Wall stuff is also slack, tried the hard greys again, just need to hold on longer and it's in the bag.
Outside is so motivating, yet the opportunities at the moment are thin.
It'll come with time. Last hard for me sport climb I tried was at easter.
Though I am trad this weekend, a few weeks off, yorkshire and then Lundy a couple of weeks after. Plenty to look forward to and some real potential...
Hopefully the weather and partner gods will smile!
Ta , Kev
Thanks, Kev
In reply to AJM: Should have been in N. Wales with Kevster et al last weekend but back injury stopped play, so no chance to consolidate and push on from VS. Made do with a couple of indoor sessions but some unexplainably lame performaces indoors are sapping enthusiasm. Just hanging in there at the moment, hoping a good wall session or two will kindle the fire.
In reply to Stone_donkey:
Hang in, the back will be good and the rock will still be there!
And now I know your user name, I'll be sure to hound you
Hang in, the back will be good and the rock will still be there!
And now I know your user name, I'll be sure to hound you
In reply to AJM:
Hi Andy, a bit late posting this week! Managed to get onto the wall once last week.
M: Climbing indoors.
T: Gym still working on weight loss.
W: Gym cardio and resistance.
T: Nothing
F: Nothing
S: Stag doo (not mine!)
S: Hangover!
Haven't climbed indoors for a few months now. Noticed that all the grades had changed to French grades, so no idea what level I was climbing at really. Last time I went I was struggling up UK 5a's and 5b's. Still I felt good and it felt easier with my slightly lighter frame. Managed a couple of F6a's and dogged out on a F6a+ I think it was. Feeling the benefit of all the hard work though. Looking forward to next time. Also now down to 83kg. The weight is falling off!
Still aiming to be down to 80kg before my 2 week trip to Austria in 10 days time.
Hi Andy, a bit late posting this week! Managed to get onto the wall once last week.
M: Climbing indoors.
T: Gym still working on weight loss.
W: Gym cardio and resistance.
T: Nothing
F: Nothing
S: Stag doo (not mine!)
S: Hangover!
Haven't climbed indoors for a few months now. Noticed that all the grades had changed to French grades, so no idea what level I was climbing at really. Last time I went I was struggling up UK 5a's and 5b's. Still I felt good and it felt easier with my slightly lighter frame. Managed a couple of F6a's and dogged out on a F6a+ I think it was. Feeling the benefit of all the hard work though. Looking forward to next time. Also now down to 83kg. The weight is falling off!
Still aiming to be down to 80kg before my 2 week trip to Austria in 10 days time.
In reply to AJM:
Bagged my first v10 last week. Psyched. Also went up to Malham and Kilnsey this week for the first time, but I'll chat about that on sunday. Not much done, but wow, they are so much better than any other UK sport crags, right?!
M-Work
T-Fitness training
W-Rest
T-Rest
F- v10 hurrah! Super long traverse, which takes in a v9 crux and then keeps going and going. Dinas Rock.
S-Rest
S-Rest
Bagged my first v10 last week. Psyched. Also went up to Malham and Kilnsey this week for the first time, but I'll chat about that on sunday. Not much done, but wow, they are so much better than any other UK sport crags, right?!
M-Work
T-Fitness training
W-Rest
T-Rest
F- v10 hurrah! Super long traverse, which takes in a v9 crux and then keeps going and going. Dinas Rock.
S-Rest
S-Rest
In reply to AJM:
S-
M-3 mile run
T-Wide arm press ups
W-Peterborough climbing centre
T-
F-12 mile cycle. Not used to cycling so tried to get used to gear changes and kept my bum on the saddle.
S-Rigged up a pulley on my chin up bar so I could try some assisted one armers. Fun! but I'll need some discipline to benefit from it.
Now I have five weeks at home, so I've no excuse not to climb as much as possible and train endurance for an upcoming visit to Spain!
Cheers,
Dan
S-
M-3 mile run
T-Wide arm press ups
W-Peterborough climbing centre
T-
F-12 mile cycle. Not used to cycling so tried to get used to gear changes and kept my bum on the saddle.
S-Rigged up a pulley on my chin up bar so I could try some assisted one armers. Fun! but I'll need some discipline to benefit from it.
Now I have five weeks at home, so I've no excuse not to climb as much as possible and train endurance for an upcoming visit to Spain!
Cheers,
Dan
In reply to AJM: It's been amazing
After a day of rest we went back to Vratsa but to a different, cooler section of the crag. This section was alot harder than the first, there was a loose looking '5a' route but I decided to just warm up on the ground and work a 7a I found. I managed to climb the entire route excluding the crux (which was right at the start) but that was partly due to the fact that a foothold that I used for it broke off on my second attempt and although I found an alternative, I was a bit too tired and the skin on my fingers was a bit too sore to clean the route.
We then had a rest at the weekend before heading back to the original sector of Vratsa for a few more days. I spent the first day or so working a 6c+ and managed to figure out how to do the crux but on my final attempt of the day it was a bit dark and I somehow missed a crucial foothold so left it for the day. I tried the route again the next day and made it well passed the crux before slipping off a ridiculously greasy (massive) hold. I then climbed up again to try to see if I could somehow improve the friction and slipped off again so I got angry and decided not to bother with that route any further. I then set my sights on a nearby 7a+ and equipped it with draws from the top down by climbing an adjacent 6b+ (one I'd failed before so a minor success story there) because the bolts were supposedly quite hard to reach. Anyway, I tried the route and it was really nice (although hard), I managed all of the moves and I reckon it'd go if I had a few attempts but we had to leave so maybe I'll send it if we return in the next week or so...
The next 2 days we went to Karlukovo again (we missed our train so we ended up getting a bus and walking around 10km to the crag which was a nice warm up), I warmed up on the 6a and then tried a 7a adjacent to the one I did last week, it was pretty easy but also quite run out so I chickened out and decided to just figure out where the holds were on that attempt. We then decided to make use of some bolts above the cave and make a big rope jump into the abyss. I really didn't want to be first (I'd already had an unlucky day and didn't want it to continue) but after waiting for maybe 3 hours for one guy to psyche himself to do it I decided I should do it before it got dark and it was AMAZING. So so scary but the feeling of the rope pulling me up was perhaps the best feeling I've ever experienced. Anyway it was pretty dark in the cave after that so we didn't climb anymore until the next day. Unfortunately I didn't sleep very well and wasn't really in the mood to climb the next day but I rewatched the video of the previous day's jump which got me in the mood to climb and I cleaned the 7a on the first RP.
Today and tomorrow are going to be rest days (friend is working) but hopefully after that we'll get at least 4 or 5 days more climbing (possibly some trad) done before I have to leave for home and I think we may be walking up Bulgaria's largest mountain on Monday which should be cool if we do it. Anyway that's it, I may not end up posting until I'm back in England so if I'm absent next week that'll be the reason.
After a day of rest we went back to Vratsa but to a different, cooler section of the crag. This section was alot harder than the first, there was a loose looking '5a' route but I decided to just warm up on the ground and work a 7a I found. I managed to climb the entire route excluding the crux (which was right at the start) but that was partly due to the fact that a foothold that I used for it broke off on my second attempt and although I found an alternative, I was a bit too tired and the skin on my fingers was a bit too sore to clean the route.
We then had a rest at the weekend before heading back to the original sector of Vratsa for a few more days. I spent the first day or so working a 6c+ and managed to figure out how to do the crux but on my final attempt of the day it was a bit dark and I somehow missed a crucial foothold so left it for the day. I tried the route again the next day and made it well passed the crux before slipping off a ridiculously greasy (massive) hold. I then climbed up again to try to see if I could somehow improve the friction and slipped off again so I got angry and decided not to bother with that route any further. I then set my sights on a nearby 7a+ and equipped it with draws from the top down by climbing an adjacent 6b+ (one I'd failed before so a minor success story there) because the bolts were supposedly quite hard to reach. Anyway, I tried the route and it was really nice (although hard), I managed all of the moves and I reckon it'd go if I had a few attempts but we had to leave so maybe I'll send it if we return in the next week or so...
The next 2 days we went to Karlukovo again (we missed our train so we ended up getting a bus and walking around 10km to the crag which was a nice warm up), I warmed up on the 6a and then tried a 7a adjacent to the one I did last week, it was pretty easy but also quite run out so I chickened out and decided to just figure out where the holds were on that attempt. We then decided to make use of some bolts above the cave and make a big rope jump into the abyss. I really didn't want to be first (I'd already had an unlucky day and didn't want it to continue) but after waiting for maybe 3 hours for one guy to psyche himself to do it I decided I should do it before it got dark and it was AMAZING. So so scary but the feeling of the rope pulling me up was perhaps the best feeling I've ever experienced. Anyway it was pretty dark in the cave after that so we didn't climb anymore until the next day. Unfortunately I didn't sleep very well and wasn't really in the mood to climb the next day but I rewatched the video of the previous day's jump which got me in the mood to climb and I cleaned the 7a on the first RP.
Today and tomorrow are going to be rest days (friend is working) but hopefully after that we'll get at least 4 or 5 days more climbing (possibly some trad) done before I have to leave for home and I think we may be walking up Bulgaria's largest mountain on Monday which should be cool if we do it. Anyway that's it, I may not end up posting until I'm back in England so if I'm absent next week that'll be the reason.
In reply to AJM:
What's the project?
I'm getting excited about France already. What crag(s) is it you want to go to again?
I just realised that in pyramid terms Ive done too many 7a's now (10) so I need to find a 7b to try
> (In reply to Eagle River)
> Incidentally - psyche has returned. Finger gave no gyp and a project was re-identified and all but crushed at the same time... Complete failure on the "sticking to aerocap" plan mind you
What's the project?
I'm getting excited about France already. What crag(s) is it you want to go to again?
I just realised that in pyramid terms Ive done too many 7a's now (10) so I need to find a 7b to try
In reply to Si dH:
Gorge du Tarn, Gorge du Jonte and Le Boffi.
You should be crushing 7b easily, and I've been saying that since the last trip
Route is Spy in the Sky, either 7b or 7b+ depending who you talk to. It's on my wish list I think on the logbooks.
Gorge du Tarn, Gorge du Jonte and Le Boffi.
You should be crushing 7b easily, and I've been saying that since the last trip
Route is Spy in the Sky, either 7b or 7b+ depending who you talk to. It's on my wish list I think on the logbooks.
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