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Avon Gauge, Identifying route.

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 Ross B 10 Jan 2012
Morning all,

I did a couple of routes at Avon Gauge Seawalls on Saturday, my first Trad Lead and Multipitch included, unfortunatly I havent been able to identify the 2 routes we did, they started on the gravels left hand side.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=189321

The photo includes both routes, the rope going up the right ended on where I believe they do group absialing, and the left rope, which can be seen being climbed by someelse, followed a off white seam up to a ledge with tree where we belayed followed by a furth climb of about 10m to the end.

I suspect the right line may be Idleburger Buttress, and the left Syph.

Thanks for every ones help in advance.
 stvredmond 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Ross B: I think your right there. right hand is definately idleburger buttress.
 maresia 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Ross B:

Yep. Syph and Idleburger. Although neither are multipitch climbs.
OP Ross B 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Ross B:

Thanks for the reply, where working with a slighlty short rope, so did multi on Syph, as practice as much as needed.
 HappyTrundler 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Ross B:

Don't let those routes put you off !!...
 Toby_W 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Ross B:

If you weren't put off by those two another nice route over in main area of the Avon Gorge is Clarion, (VS) followed by Bobs climb off the ledge.

The best routes in the Gorge are under the Bridge I think.

Have fun.

Cheers

Toby
OP Ross B 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Toby_W:

Put of definitely not, I truly enjoyed the climbs, admittedly I really only have castle rock cleeve as a comparison, and Saturday was gorgeous weather wise which also helps.

I will definitely be down there again as when my climbing partner, weather and life enables, I just would like to get ahold of a decent diagram for where the routes are instead of making it up
 riff156 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Ross B: Hi Ross its a small world i was there next to you it was me that looked at your book anyway when you were doing your first route i was doing idle burger buttress which i later saw you on but i think your first route wasnt jasper as your mate thought but floating voter,

Steve
 maresia 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Toby_W:

Clarion can be a bit sketchy. There have been a couple of ground falls as the gear by/before the crux isn't too great if it isn't placed carefully. I wouldn't recommend it to someone with only 2 leads under their belt! Plus, like most of Avon below HVS it's polished quite heavily.

Ross - try Goblin Combe. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=44 Loads of amenable grades and a nice spot to climb.
 Toby_W 10 Jan 2012
In reply to maresia:

Good point, for a VS I have done some deep breathing and micro & small nuts are useful to protect it..

Cheers

Toby
OP Ross B 10 Jan 2012
In reply to riff156: Thanks Steve, we were having a few problems working out the routes from the pictures, we aimed for Jasper but guessed it probably was not.

Saw you doing that one and thought it looked a nice lark so gave it a bash, in the normal whats the worse that could happen approach to life
 Monk 10 Jan 2012
In reply to Toby_W:
> (In reply to Ross B)
>
> If you weren't put off by those two another nice route over in main area of the Avon Gorge is Clarion, (VS) followed by Bobs climb off the ledge.
>

As others have said, Clarion is one to save for when you are solid at VS and have a rack of micro wires - it's not hard, but the protection is not that simple.

Great routes to do next would be Nightmare, Sleepwalk and Morpheus (all friendly multipitch at Seawalls). Then Main Area is another great spot, with routes like the Arete (easy but fun), Dexter and Sinister. Bob's climb is an excellent VDiff from the ledge, as Toby said.
OP Ross B 10 Jan 2012
Thanks every one for your reply, I think Nightmare will be my next target, but I definetly hope to get alot more climbing down and around there.

Thanks again

Ross
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