UKC

In reply to UKC News: Still, what've they done on Stanage...

In reply to UKC News:

Seems a shame to make such an early start and still only manage to get one route in. Did they need to get back for work or something? Surely that's not the only route worth doing at the crag?

In reply to UKC News: aye, and don't forget that classic number 36 (purple) at my local climbing wall. I think its a 6b+. He'd struggle with that.

In reply to UKC News:

Astounding effort, brilliant guys.

Out of interest, does anyone know roughly how much aid they use in a typical speed ascent?


Chris

In reply to UKC News: Steck must be feeling a bit gutted/inferior - Oxygen-free Everest ascent or not! What was his and Honnold's best Nose time again?

Yes. That tragic feeling of being not the best in the world at something.

In reply to psychomansam: Do you never feel that?

In reply to UKC News:

Ok - so as this thread has already started in a classic UKC negative style I'll add my tuppence worth.

I hate Nose speed records because when someone asks you how long it took you to climb The Nose and you say "3 and a half days"................some clever tw*t always replies with........



E

In reply to Chris Craggs: Chris, watch the film "race for the nose". (on the latest Reel Rock I think.)

Basically anything goes, pulling on stuck gear, bolts etc. Still place minimal actual gear though.

In reply to UKC News:
Great pictures in that article. I love the one of the great roof.

In reply to UKC News:
What does 'short fixed' mean? some kind of belay??

In reply to royal:

It's a technique used whilst simul-climbing, the leader pulls up a ton of rope and ties it off at a belay and climbs on, either using a self belay device (e.g. silent partner) or effectively solo's with a long tether whilst the second jugs the line to the fixed belay.

In reply to UKC News:
Nice one, thanks.

In reply to UKC News:

Interesting Honnold is going second in that picture. I thought the technique was for one climber to lead the whole way and that HF tended to take the seconding/rope management role. AH was certainly leading some of the way. Do they swop over then, I wonder? You'd think it would waste time.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

As I understand John, HF led the first half and AH the second. Florine said afterwards that as AH had started after him and finished before him, AH had actually climbed the Nose in just over 2:15!

In reply to UKC News:
So is this Alex Honnold 'just chilling with mates at the crag' after his Triple mission?

In reply to UKC News: Isn't there a video somewhere of Dean Potter at the end of a speed ascent and the camera guy says something like "do you think Hans will be back to try and get the record again" and Dean says something like "I don't give a f*** about Hans, want me to break your camera?"....
...Or did I just totally imagine that. I am so sure I saw it but I can't find it anywhere... difficult thing to search for though.

Oh, and rock on UKC, I laughed reading this thread!

In reply to Styx:

I can barely get my head around that, but it sounds crazy!

thanks for explaining

In reply to henwardian: youtube.com/watch?v=L35qBS7XqvI& this one perchance?

Not very sporting is it? Just another reason to dislike dean potter

In reply to henwardian:

Yeah it's on this: youtube.com/watch?v=L35qBS7XqvI&

In reply to Rob15:

Haha, yeah, thats the one. Other than that its an epic video, makes me think I should have found out what it was all about and gone to check it out

Tbh, I laugh at speed ascents of the nose in the same way as I laugh at the queue of people on everest. Both are kind of a facet of the sport that would turn me off it if I couldn't see the funny side (arguably pretty macabre humor when it comes to everest).
Oh, except that one day I might actually climb the nose at a sedate velocity

In reply to UKC News:

HAHAHAHA!

In your face DP, guys you have to see the reel rock tour cover of this, the ecord has been going back and forth btw Dean Potter and Hans Florine.

In reply to henwardian:


whhhaaa! they are totally different things. One is people at the very highest level of climbing competing with each other but also battling the limits of the human body in a dangerous setting....and the other is climbing the nose :P

In reply to Kemics:

Yeah, I know, I didn't mean they were the same thing, just that they both go in the bag of things that are, well, not my bag... They are part of the same sport (broadly speaking).