In reply to UKC Articles, Jack Geldard et al:
WHAT A REFRESHING CHANGE
For me this video encapsulates what is good about climbing films. Yes, it is a little bit clunky in places, but it is incredibly watchable and, unlike so many others, tells a bit of a story.
I would sum up this piece of work as being honest and reverent. The tipping of the hat to famous climbers and routes (Dolphin, Austin, Syrett) gives the whole piece a thread and ultimately some relevance. I also enjoy the link between classic HVSs and E3s as a leap in history - but also a leap in personal achievement. Many climbers aspire to routes such as Great Western and often look at Wall of Horrors as being unattainable. This video calmly demonstrates that we should perhaps not be so closed to the progression.
None of the action is overdone. In fact it is probably understated which is to the credit of the editors who kept it simple and, most of all, engaging. There was no overplayed drama, no overplayed closeups of fingers clinging onto that tiny crimp and no artificial building of tension. This was all about history and all about a climber enjoying some classic grit on a fine crag.
Most of all I enjoyed the soundtrack. What soundtrack? Exactly.
Far too often we encounter some thrash rock accompanying dramatic ascents. The soundtrack to this piece was the bleating of sheep and the pleasant, calm and lyrical tones of Jack as he gave little bits of personal information to us, little chunks of historical context and an overall sense that the pleasure in climbing comes from the pleasure in climbing. This was proof that you do not need music at all to make a piece watchable - you simply need to engage with your audience instead of trying to fill in the gaps.
Yes, it's a little clumsy in places. There are a few dead spots in the audio and it jumps forward quickly from here to there. It feels like a bit of a five-finger-exercise in film making, but all of this is entirely forgivable in this understated but engaging and refreshing piece.
Top marks from me. More of the same guys please!