In reply to Si dH:
Cheers Si, and good job on the high tor E3, you are really tearing through your goals for the year. Need more ambitious ones?
> I'm impressed by how much structure/science you always put in to your training.
It's not science it just looks like science because of all the arcane abbreviations which I use in place of a coherent narrative of what I have been doing.
Pleased to finally do Road Rage this week, has been a personal milestone and long-term goal for years. It's taken me ages but for once I am not that bothered - It was the first route harder than 7a+ I ever tried, I remember the first time I tried it the moves were individually right at my limit and the whole thing felt like a fantasy level of hard climbing. Apart from anything, it's been a joy to climb and work on, happy memories of slowly putting the sequence together, going round and round endurance circuits carefully constructed around it at the wall, taking proper screaming falls off the top while preparing myself to skip the clip by practicing the fall. we've got used to spending long laid back days down by the sea, enjoying crisp winter sunshine or basking in late autumn heat, more often than not by ourselves, watching seals and peregrines. Feel very ambivalent. Planning on moving on to one of the other routes down there but Road Rage I suspect is the classic of that wall.
STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:35 +1
Redpoint a mega steep 7-something in Rodellar
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7c+)
Onsight 7a+ in the UK (probably Portland given current weather)
Learn to drive
tick (Nightmare Scenario) and Road Rage tick
Infinite G - do all the moves, redpoint to first lower off.
2012/13 season:
Do hard routes quickly, ie. - 7a+ < 2nd go, 7b < 3rd go, 7b+ < 1day, 7c < 2day. Stretch goals - o/s 7a+ in UK, o/s 7b, 7b+ 2nd go, 7c in 2 days.
- scoreboard: (2d, 1d, 3go, 2go, fl, o/s) - 7a+: (6,4,0,[2,3,3]) 7b: (6,3,[1,1,0,1]) 7b+: (0,[3,1,0,0,0]) 7c: ([0,0,0,0,0,0])
Maintain 9,000 8a.nu points
MTG
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.
LTG - 2013/14
Infinite G
Endurance week 2 of 3. Pretty busy - between lots of work and driving lessons, climbing sessions have been stripped down to 90 minute warm up-endurance-go home affairs. Estimated volume 983 moves total, (27% -46% - 26% - 0% Easy-Med-Hard-Thresh, 52% routes)
M:
T: 4x4s session before work. 4x4 on Mezz - v4v3v2v3, (v4)v3v2v3v2, v4v3v2v3, v4(v3)v2v3v2. with 2'00 rest Pumped + out of breath. powered down? PM - linkups in catacombs. Got link of pink into black (26 moves/7b?) and then did twice into purple (to failure - 30, 36 moves).
W: AM - sacked lead session off before it began, too tired and under-caloried. Went home, ate something, got a short endurance session in on the crimp wall. Warmed up, then doing intervals to failure (approx 2' on, 2' off x4 plus 2x 2'30 laps with total recovery.) Probably ~25 moves per lap, 7a ish, 175 moves. Full-on slow-burn arm-busting pump.
T: 4x4s. v4(v3)v2/3v3, v4v3v2/3v3, v4v3v2/3v3(v2), (v4)(v3)v2/3(v3) with 1'50 rest. Interesting - tried to tag on one extra not-that-hard problem into my third set - actually it seemed that (combined with slightly shorter rest time) was enough to push me far enough over the edge to produce failure in pretty much every problem in the 4th set.
F:
S: Road Rage. Linking go to warm up, then redpointing. First go to the headwall, 2nd go to the triangle crimp, tweaked the sequence slightly to add in one more foot move as that is a few times I've dropped it from there on redpoint, then ticked it next go. The first and only time I have not felt pumped on it. End of an era.
S: Warmed up on Road Rage, then had a look at the moves on Illusions. Looks a bit less sustained than RR, it has two very hard sections and a short stretch of easier climbing in the middle where you would probably try to get a shake. Some great moves on it but also some nasty locks off very thin/conditionsy/skin eating holds. Missing a hard move or two from each hard section. Not sure if I'm mega keen to come back to it, might try something else next time we are down there.