In reply to robw007: Racking by colour or even and odd numbers. I assume the trolls have arrived.
I'd say I do what most other people here seem to; make sure I have my own rack when I'm trying something hard and just make do when I'm on a pitch I within my capabilities.
If you are on a hard lead, you already have a lot to think about:
- how pumped am I?
- where is the next gear?
- is this a sensible place to shake out?
- how long do I need to shake for the next section of the route?
- what would the consequences of a fall be from here?
- how much higher can I go without gear before things will be getting very dangerous?
- is the gear I have placed in solid rock?
- if I placed small gear, how big a fall can I afford to take on it?
- where does the line of the route go?
- is that hold in or is it part of the next route?
- are there any hidden holds/gear ahead?
Just rattled off the top of my head. Sure plenty of these things are calculated in a cemi-automatic way in the back of your mind but it's a mass of information to consider. I'd rather not add an extra "right, thats a fiddly hole to put gear in, it would be an RP4 on my rack, lets see, what does my mate have that's near that size" when I might be on a very marginal shakeout in a pumped condition above a fall with questionable consequences.