UKC

a quick winter climbing question.......

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 AdCo82 10 Oct 2012
To what winter grade have you climbed using the following:

1. Single axe
2. B2 crampons
3. Single rope

What route / type of route was it?
 s.scott 10 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

grade 2 and could probably get up a 3 if we had tried one.
 George Fisher 10 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

Climbed WI3 in Rjukan with no axe.

It was pretty stepped out though.
 johnnorman 10 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:


Grade 3 gully no crampons, cutting steps in ice/neve
Grade 2 gully no crampons, crow bar for ice axe !!
 Caralynh 10 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

Grade II (answers all 3)
 IainMunro 10 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

1. IV,3 (Tower Ridge) and lots of grade II gullies with one axe
2. V,6 with B2 crampons
3. IV,5 with a single rope

Iain
 rif 10 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:
1. IV: Green Gully, NEB, Observatory Ridge, etc
2. V: Orion Direct, Parallel B, etc
3. can't remember, but probably IV
 mrchewy 10 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas: Downclimbed D+ with one axe, secondhand Vasak crampons and no rope.

It all depends on the conditions tho and they can vary hugely day to day.
 Petarghh 11 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

Grade II with one axe
Grade III with b2's and crampons (climbing partner has done IV 6 in b3's with b2 points)
IV 4 with a single rope, but i guess thats subjective to the route, we climb easy stuff in the alps with just one 1/2 rope and also stuff to grade III in the UK with just one 8.5mm rope.
 smuffy 11 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas: Watch "The Pinnacle".
 CurlyStevo 11 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:
B2 crampons are what exactly? Even C2 isn't really clearly defined. There isn't any difference in performance between the crampomatic G12/14 and newmatic G12/G14. Lets face it petzl dart are pretty similar to G14 in mono mode and will have been up some monster hard climbs (and certainly could be considered C2). If you are thinking of mountaineering crampons here they also wouldn't necessarily limit you at all on ice.

I've seen B2 boots with a proper toe welt before so perfectly capable of taking a newmatic G14.
 Hannes 11 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

1. About III though that was one of the all powerful nomics
2. Never used em but my mate who was seconding did perfectly fine on V 6 (ice)
3. VI 6 - big scary route on a decent sized mountain. A single beal joker.
 Michael Gordon 11 Oct 2012
In reply to An Triubhas:

Do you mean C2 crampons? If so then I think that tends to be the crampon of choice for many (the majority?). You don't need fully rigid crampons to get up hard routes.

The single axe is certainly the limiting factor here. Don't think I've climbed harder than II in this way.
OP AdCo82 15 Oct 2012
In reply to Michael Gordon: apologies I did mean C2, just a typing error!

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