In reply to Martin1978:
> But this is from Libby Peters book, and probably why it has started to be used by people wanting to be clever:
Not sure if this was meant to be disparaging or not, but actually I think it is quite "clever" to standardise on the techniques and terminology used in Libby's book when introducing beginners, even in a club situation. Our club regularly gets beginners who have done a few sessions with qualified instructors at local walls or elsewhere. Given that Libby's book is the textbook for MIA, SPA and CWA it's likely that these are the techniques they will have been taught and it's unnecessarily confusing to introduce alternatives at this early stage. The belaying technique used in Libby's book is not exactly what I do myself, but it's simple and safe, and, yes, I find that "V, to the knee, 1, 2,. 3" does make it easier for beginners to get it right.
As for the video, well it uses a different technique, not brilliantly demonstrated I feel, but it's for an American audience, so we probably shouldn't criticise the use of "biner" etc. (I've had several Americans laugh out loud when I've called it a "krab".) Somebody complained that they shouldn't use language not recognised as English by the majority of the world's English speakers, but I'm afraid if you want to achieve that you'll need to make the video in India!