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Which are the best sea cliff venues for routes in the grade bracket Diff to HS?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
In reply to Trevers:
There is loads of easy stuff in N pembroke, around the St Davids area. Slabby sandstone mostly. If you can get your hands on the current guide (vol 1) then take a look at the "organ pipes".
There is loads of easy stuff in N pembroke, around the St Davids area. Slabby sandstone mostly. If you can get your hands on the current guide (vol 1) then take a look at the "organ pipes".
In reply to Trevers:
The Gower is surely your place, most you can walk to, Sheep bone wall offers as friendlier place for the sea cliff atmosphere as anywhere I've been. Other places I've sampled that leap to mind include Sennen and Chair Ladder in Cornwall, Giltar slabs and Porth Clais in Pembroke and there's some cracking crags near poolewe in NW Scotland.
Diluted.
The Gower is surely your place, most you can walk to, Sheep bone wall offers as friendlier place for the sea cliff atmosphere as anywhere I've been. Other places I've sampled that leap to mind include Sennen and Chair Ladder in Cornwall, Giltar slabs and Porth Clais in Pembroke and there's some cracking crags near poolewe in NW Scotland.
Diluted.
In reply to Trevers:
You'll find it hard to beat Reiff for quality and scenery at those grades, but it is a wee bit out of the way. There are also some good, friendly crags on the granite north of Aberdeen (e.g. Greymare Slabs, Meikle Partans).
You'll find it hard to beat Reiff for quality and scenery at those grades, but it is a wee bit out of the way. There are also some good, friendly crags on the granite north of Aberdeen (e.g. Greymare Slabs, Meikle Partans).
In reply to Stuart S:
Thanks for the suggestion but unfortunately Aberdeen is a bit far out of my way. Ought to have mentioned I'm looking for South England and Wales.
> (In reply to Trevers)
>
> You'll find it hard to beat Reiff for quality and scenery at those grades, but it is a wee bit out of the way. There are also some good, friendly crags on the granite north of Aberdeen (e.g. Greymare Slabs, Meikle Partans).
>
> You'll find it hard to beat Reiff for quality and scenery at those grades, but it is a wee bit out of the way. There are also some good, friendly crags on the granite north of Aberdeen (e.g. Greymare Slabs, Meikle Partans).
Thanks for the suggestion but unfortunately Aberdeen is a bit far out of my way. Ought to have mentioned I'm looking for South England and Wales.
In reply to Trevers: Sennen and Bosigran (not forgetting the small bay just west of Bosigran if you want more easy stuff in that range) Gower and Pembroke are also obvious choices.
In reply to Offwidth:
That'll be Halldrine, http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2706.
Another suggestion,
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=692
> (In reply to Trevers) ot forgetting the small bay just west of Bosigran if you want more easy stuff in that range>
That'll be Halldrine, http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2706.
Another suggestion,
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=692
In reply to Trevers:
Some good suggestions here.
Baggy Point also has some good easier stuff, and there's some okay easy stuff at Swanage too - Cattle Troughs and Subluminal specifically.
To an extent, I think that where would be best depends whether you want a nice, accessible, escapable crag by the sea, or whether you want the full sea cliff adventure, with a committing abseil approach and a slightly intimidating location, but without having to climb HVS to get it.
Some good suggestions here.
Baggy Point also has some good easier stuff, and there's some okay easy stuff at Swanage too - Cattle Troughs and Subluminal specifically.
To an extent, I think that where would be best depends whether you want a nice, accessible, escapable crag by the sea, or whether you want the full sea cliff adventure, with a committing abseil approach and a slightly intimidating location, but without having to climb HVS to get it.
In reply to Trevers:
How about Trewavas, it is on the coast but quite a long way above the sea so not affected by tides or big waves and, now the summer is just about over, probably going to be warmer than Bosi.
How about Trewavas, it is on the coast but quite a long way above the sea so not affected by tides or big waves and, now the summer is just about over, probably going to be warmer than Bosi.
In reply to disco leg:
There is some sea level stuff at Trewavas, just most seem to ignore it.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8145
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=8439
There is some sea level stuff at Trewavas, just most seem to ignore it.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8145
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=8439
In reply to Ramblin dave:
The latter preferably. I've done a tiny bit of sea cliff climbing but on a top rope by lowering in which was spectacular in itself, but not quite the full experience.
> (In reply to Trevers)
> Some good suggestions here.
>
> Baggy Point also has some good easier stuff, and there's some okay easy stuff at Swanage too - Cattle Troughs and Subluminal specifically.
>
> To an extent, I think that where would be best depends whether you want a nice, accessible, escapable crag by the sea, or whether you want the full sea cliff adventure, with a committing abseil approach and a slightly intimidating location, but without having to climb HVS to get it.
> Some good suggestions here.
>
> Baggy Point also has some good easier stuff, and there's some okay easy stuff at Swanage too - Cattle Troughs and Subluminal specifically.
>
> To an extent, I think that where would be best depends whether you want a nice, accessible, escapable crag by the sea, or whether you want the full sea cliff adventure, with a committing abseil approach and a slightly intimidating location, but without having to climb HVS to get it.
The latter preferably. I've done a tiny bit of sea cliff climbing but on a top rope by lowering in which was spectacular in itself, but not quite the full experience.
In reply to Trevers: the coast between Lydstep and Tenby has some very pleasant routes in your desired grade range. We've spent many a fine day exploring this area.
Pmc
Pmc
In reply to Trevers:
Go to mowing word at Pembroke and do diedre sud (HS) in that case..
> (In reply to Ramblin dave)
> [...]
>
> The latter preferably. I've done a tiny bit of sea cliff climbing but on a top rope by lowering in which was spectacular in itself, but not quite the full experience.
> [...]
>
> The latter preferably. I've done a tiny bit of sea cliff climbing but on a top rope by lowering in which was spectacular in itself, but not quite the full experience.
Go to mowing word at Pembroke and do diedre sud (HS) in that case..
In reply to Trevers: Have to put a vote in here for Porth Clais (St Davids) area in N Pembroke, but it's mostly abseil approach.
In reply to DerwentDiluted:
Shome mishtake shurely?
> (In reply to Trevers)
> The Gower is surely your place, most you can walk to,
> The Gower is surely your place, most you can walk to,
Shome mishtake shurely?
In reply to Bulls Crack:
You can walk to most of them and there's a lot of non-tidal stuff. So not sure why you say 'some mistake'.
If you look around at Pembroke, there's a lot more easy stuff than most folk seem to think.
Myola on Stuntsmans Butress (VS in the new guide) but it was HS in the last one, is a really nice route and it is HS. There's some nice Severes and VDiffs at Stennis Head as well.
> (In reply to DerwentDiluted)
> [...]
>
> Shome mishtake shurely?
> [...]
>
> Shome mishtake shurely?
You can walk to most of them and there's a lot of non-tidal stuff. So not sure why you say 'some mistake'.
If you look around at Pembroke, there's a lot more easy stuff than most folk seem to think.
Myola on Stuntsmans Butress (VS in the new guide) but it was HS in the last one, is a really nice route and it is HS. There's some nice Severes and VDiffs at Stennis Head as well.
In reply to Trevers:
In this grade band surely the most pleasant sea-cliff venue is the UK is Gower. I never understand why people recommend the toilet that is Saddle Head when they could be building sandcastles in-between ticking routes at Three Cliffs or Fall Bay.
> Which are the best sea cliff venues for routes in the grade bracket Diff to HS?
In this grade band surely the most pleasant sea-cliff venue is the UK is Gower. I never understand why people recommend the toilet that is Saddle Head when they could be building sandcastles in-between ticking routes at Three Cliffs or Fall Bay.
In reply to Bulls Crack:
I can't think of a single crag on Gower that really requires an abseil.
> > The Gower is surely your place, most you can walk to,
> Shome mishtake shurely?
I can't think of a single crag on Gower that really requires an abseil.
In reply to Alun:
This said, the best VS I've ever done is Blue Sky. So i take that comment back - at least partially!
> toilet that is Saddle Head
This said, the best VS I've ever done is Blue Sky. So i take that comment back - at least partially!
In reply to Trevers: Wall Street at Cormorant Ledge (Swanage) gives a great sea cliff experience at HS. Ledgend HS, Oran S and Cormorant Buttress West S are nearby and also worthwhile.
In reply to Trevers: so not Wen Slab then?
In reply to Alun:
And Sea Mist is up there with the best HS routes I've done. But yes on the whole I would tend toward N. Pembroke, with perhaps a foray to Flimston Bay for Bow-Shaped Corner.
The only time I tried to go to the Gower, England and Wales got hit hard by crazy flooding leaving me stranded and sleeping in the outskirts of Evesham in a car that was lucky to survive it all. I won't be trying that again in a hurry
> (In reply to Alun)
> [...]
>
> This said, the best VS I've ever done is Blue Sky. So i take that comment back - at least partially!
> [...]
>
> This said, the best VS I've ever done is Blue Sky. So i take that comment back - at least partially!
And Sea Mist is up there with the best HS routes I've done. But yes on the whole I would tend toward N. Pembroke, with perhaps a foray to Flimston Bay for Bow-Shaped Corner.
The only time I tried to go to the Gower, England and Wales got hit hard by crazy flooding leaving me stranded and sleeping in the outskirts of Evesham in a car that was lucky to survive it all. I won't be trying that again in a hurry
In reply to Blue Straggler: was that 2007? I managed to get to Ledbury just before it became an island. Bonkers day. We were kindly put up in some school teachers' house.
In reply to David Alcock:
2007 or 2008. It's when a load of cars were stranded, static on the M50, for many many hours. I was lucky, really! When it had become clear I would not get to Swansea, I rang a friend in Worcester to see if I could stay at his house, he said "aye" but just as I was approaching Worcester, it got sealed off - an important bridge was closed because it was sustaining structural damage from caravans. Caravans that were bobbing around in the river and smacking into it....
2007 or 2008. It's when a load of cars were stranded, static on the M50, for many many hours. I was lucky, really! When it had become clear I would not get to Swansea, I rang a friend in Worcester to see if I could stay at his house, he said "aye" but just as I was approaching Worcester, it got sealed off - an important bridge was closed because it was sustaining structural damage from caravans. Caravans that were bobbing around in the river and smacking into it....
In reply to mattrm:
> (In reply to Bulls Crack)
> [...]
>
> You can walk to most of them and there's a lot of non-tidal stuff. So not sure why you say 'some mistake'.
>
>
Juts wondering if the OP wanted sea cliffs rather than cliffs by the sea! > [...]
>
> You can walk to most of them and there's a lot of non-tidal stuff. So not sure why you say 'some mistake'.
>
>
In reply to Bulls Crack:
In which case I'll give an honourable mention to Jack Scout. Although I'll confess that because of its situation on Morecambe Bay, it's not always a sea-cliff.
> (In reply to mattrm)
> [...]
> Juts wondering if the OP wanted sea cliffs rather than cliffs by the sea!
> [...]
> Juts wondering if the OP wanted sea cliffs rather than cliffs by the sea!
In which case I'll give an honourable mention to Jack Scout. Although I'll confess that because of its situation on Morecambe Bay, it's not always a sea-cliff.
In reply to Trevers:
In my limited experience of sea cliff climbing, Reiff is the place to go. It's a friendly, low grade paradise.
In my limited experience of sea cliff climbing, Reiff is the place to go. It's a friendly, low grade paradise.
In reply to The Ivanator:
Hmmm, having just looked at your logbook I'd wait awhile until you ab into Cormorant/Guillemot Ledge at Swanage, unless you have an experienced partner with you who is solid at HS (or harder). Take prussik loops and know how to use them to ascend the ab line - an ab rope and half ropes to climb on are pretty much essential at most big sea cliff venues.
> (In reply to Trevers) Wall Street at Cormorant Ledge (Swanage) gives a great sea cliff experience at HS. Ledgend HS, Oran S and Cormorant Buttress West S are nearby and also worthwhile.
Hmmm, having just looked at your logbook I'd wait awhile until you ab into Cormorant/Guillemot Ledge at Swanage, unless you have an experienced partner with you who is solid at HS (or harder). Take prussik loops and know how to use them to ascend the ab line - an ab rope and half ropes to climb on are pretty much essential at most big sea cliff venues.
Gower - lots of stuff - 3 cliffs bay / fall bay and around which has the advantage of avoiding abseils in.
Pembroke - lots of stuff but expect committing abseils in.
All very very nice
Pembroke - lots of stuff but expect committing abseils in.
All very very nice
In reply to Trevers: Loads of mid-grade routes at Chair Ladder and when the sun is shining is there anywhere better? Needs a couple of visits to find your way around though.
In reply to Trevers:
Another vote for N Pembroke, much more pleasant (and just as friendly) as the polished low grade classics at Saddle Head. N Pembroke is stunning.
This was my first sea cliff climb, I lead it as a (pretty incompetent!!) HS/VS leader. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6473
Another vote for N Pembroke, much more pleasant (and just as friendly) as the polished low grade classics at Saddle Head. N Pembroke is stunning.
This was my first sea cliff climb, I lead it as a (pretty incompetent!!) HS/VS leader. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=6473
In reply to The Ivanator:
Thanks for the advice. The HS routes are something to work towards next summer to be honest. Are static ropes generally used for ab ropes?
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> [...]
>
> Hmmm, having just looked at your logbook I'd wait awhile until you ab into Cormorant/Guillemot Ledge at Swanage, unless you have an experienced partner with you who is solid at HS (or harder). Take prussik loops and know how to use them to ascend the ab line - an ab rope and half ropes to climb on are pretty much essential at most big sea cliff venues.
> [...]
>
> Hmmm, having just looked at your logbook I'd wait awhile until you ab into Cormorant/Guillemot Ledge at Swanage, unless you have an experienced partner with you who is solid at HS (or harder). Take prussik loops and know how to use them to ascend the ab line - an ab rope and half ropes to climb on are pretty much essential at most big sea cliff venues.
Thanks for the advice. The HS routes are something to work towards next summer to be honest. Are static ropes generally used for ab ropes?
In reply to Trevers:
It depends what you have available. Most people use an old sports rope.
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
> [...]
>
> Thanks for the advice. The HS routes are something to work towards next summer to be honest. Are static ropes generally used for ab ropes?
> [...]
>
> Thanks for the advice. The HS routes are something to work towards next summer to be honest. Are static ropes generally used for ab ropes?
It depends what you have available. Most people use an old sports rope.
In reply to Blue Straggler: Yeah, I actually turned onto the M50 to escape the M5. Had water up to window level getting into Ledbury! I don't think all that clutch slipping did the car much good. And I was with two toddlers and a pregnant wife. Three point turn in four feet due to a drowned Disco blocking the road was the crux. Toyota Starlet. Fab wee car.
In reply to David Alcock:
So the bonnet completely submerged? Remarkable engine that!
> (In reply to Blue Straggler) Yeah, I actually turned onto the M50 to escape the M5. Had water up to window level getting into Ledbury! I don't think all that clutch slipping did the car much good. And I was with two toddlers and a pregnant wife. Three point turn in four feet due to a drowned Disco blocking the road was the crux. Toyota Starlet. Fab wee car.
So the bonnet completely submerged? Remarkable engine that!
In reply to Bulls Crack: Put it this way: I didn't believe it either, and was in full "get the family up a tree mode". I have some photos on an old hard drive. The car survived another two years. Absolutely unbelievable weather, and very lucky driving.
P.s. No, I have never figured out how the engine was getting air either, but it was somehow. My science head says impossible, but still, it happened. Weird bow wave effects? Revs at 6k? Still doesn't explain the intake. I still shake my head in incomprehension.
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