UKC

As per the title, I have a climbing friend who has a special occasion in the Pass, North Wales in a month or two, and I'm looking for a route for him to remember for that day. Single or multipitch but has to be accessible as we have other things to fit in too.

I thought an afternoon/evening ascent of 'Dervish as an idea.

Suggestions please.
He's done cemetry gates/cenotaph corner btw.

Cheers, Kev

In reply to Kevster:

Left Wall would be the obvious choice.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:



Wot he said! ^^^^^^^

In reply to ewar woowar:
True and an obvious choice! I'll have to find out if its been done by my mate. Trouble is I'd like to keep the final route a suprise.... But route chat is easy.

I often think the best ascent is the first time around.

Others?

In reply to Kevster:

If you can build in an hour's walk, Lubyanka or The Grooves?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

They're certainally both on my radar. I assume the 6 pitches in the book for Lubyanka can be condensed a little. 6 Pitches would take some time.

In reply to Kevster:

I'm sure it can, though I'm not sure how much time it would save. The pitches are mainly (well, 3-5, anyway) grooves above convenient platforms, and they're not in a terribly straight line IIRC. Linking them might involve the rope dragging around a bit, though I'm sure it could be done.

jcm

In reply to Kevster:

Hard to improve on the above, but Nexus (Mot) maybe if he has done LW ?

In reply to Kevster:


I was going to say Lubyanka too - I'm sure we did it in 4 after soloing up to the start. it was 1989 so I might be wrong.

E

In reply to Kevster:
How about Daurigol/The Hand Traverse/Pinnacle Arete connection. I know it is really 3 routes but it is a great day out.

In reply to Kevster:

Suicide Wall. As its in 'North Wales'.

Alternatively Kaisergebirge Wall for a 'quick hit'.
Or Diagonal if the weather is kind.

In reply to Kevster:

Quality route, stays dry, no walk in and a nice café for when you're done.... it has to be Vector for me (if I ever got trapped in Groundhog Day).

In reply to Kevster: If you are short of time then what about Ten Degree North on the Mot? You won't find finer rock anywhere!

If you have more time than an obvious choice would be the The Grooves on Cyrn Las but with the Hugh Banner Overhanging Arete finish (E2 IIRC). It is a stunning line in an amazing situation. I can't think of any pitch that is likely to be any more memorable.

In reply to andyathome:

On the Nose I would pick Superdirect, but Ex Engineer is right about the rock on the Plexus buttress -unfortunately I thought Nexus was a tiny bit of a let down. Only a tiny bit, though.