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Placeholder, stats to come later as I'm off on a last minute day out to swanage! 😃
In reply to Dandan:
Enjoy Swanage, lovely day here in London so hopefully likewise for you.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
M – Bouldering at Westway. All the V0 & V1 circuit. About ½ the V2/3 circuit, 3 of the V3/4 circuit & 1 V4/V5. Quick go on a couple more of the V4/5 which seem possible.
W – Bouldering at WW again. Couple of the V2/V3, 1 more V3/V4. Progress on a couple of other V3/V4 although at least one will involve considerably more flexibility / yoga. Spent some time trying a V5 which involves a tough balancy move reaching between 2 poor holds, can’t quite reach yet.
S – 6 mile walk with the parents
S – Bouldering at Urban Ascent in Parsons Green. 2/3rds of the V0 circuit and half a dozen each of the V1-V3s and the V2-V4s. Felt a bit powered out, prob need to eat a bit more. 5 mile cycle each way there and back
Been a bit hectic at work this week but at least managed to get in 3 boulder sessions. Suspect next week will be similar but hopefully will get out one day at the weekend.
Enjoy Swanage, lovely day here in London so hopefully likewise for you.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
M – Bouldering at Westway. All the V0 & V1 circuit. About ½ the V2/3 circuit, 3 of the V3/4 circuit & 1 V4/V5. Quick go on a couple more of the V4/5 which seem possible.
W – Bouldering at WW again. Couple of the V2/V3, 1 more V3/V4. Progress on a couple of other V3/V4 although at least one will involve considerably more flexibility / yoga. Spent some time trying a V5 which involves a tough balancy move reaching between 2 poor holds, can’t quite reach yet.
S – 6 mile walk with the parents
S – Bouldering at Urban Ascent in Parsons Green. 2/3rds of the V0 circuit and half a dozen each of the V1-V3s and the V2-V4s. Felt a bit powered out, prob need to eat a bit more. 5 mile cycle each way there and back
Been a bit hectic at work this week but at least managed to get in 3 boulder sessions. Suspect next week will be similar but hopefully will get out one day at the weekend.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Hope you made the most of the weather.
Another good week, which is nice.
Went back to Langcliffe Quarry and got a 7a+ this time. Touched By The Hand of Plod (7a+) Gave it a top rope then could have gone for it but gave it another quick look over as i wanted to climb it well not scrape up it. Went easily in the end. Had a look at a 3* 7a that felt nails on first acquaintance but have got a sequence sorted now for next time. Steep start into a very hard traverse then an even harder slab to finish.
Did my physio like a good boy and am enjoying the feeling of climbing without pain.
Boulder re-set meant i was forced into using the steep side. I was going to sack it off and do routes but ended up climbing with a guy who's a very good boulderer. Learnt lots about steep bouldering. Got stuck around V4/5 and made a V5 my project. SHould have got it on the day but i was fading a bit by the end. I almost enjoyed steep bouldering and i can definitely see how it will benefit me so i'm going to stick with it.
Had a very quick BM session but left back two felt tweaky still from falling off my bike so not much done.
Didn't use my bike for college this week and unsurprisingly the fat didn't shift. Diet was good all week, but went to a 40th yesterday with free booze, barbecue and nibbles. Over indulged slightly.
Next week i'm off to Chapel Head Can't wait. Then got a plan to pay a visit to Kilnsey ( weather depending ) to pick a project. The Thumb or The Bulge are probably favourites.
STG's
Indoor routes - 12 route pyramid topping out at 7a
Outdoor - retroflash attempt on Tufa King Hard
Beastmaker session - few sets of repeaters to get going.
Bike to college twice
Physio
Rivington half Marathon off the sofa having not run since June/July time.
Cheers Dan. Hope you made the most of the weather.
Another good week, which is nice.
Went back to Langcliffe Quarry and got a 7a+ this time. Touched By The Hand of Plod (7a+) Gave it a top rope then could have gone for it but gave it another quick look over as i wanted to climb it well not scrape up it. Went easily in the end. Had a look at a 3* 7a that felt nails on first acquaintance but have got a sequence sorted now for next time. Steep start into a very hard traverse then an even harder slab to finish.
Did my physio like a good boy and am enjoying the feeling of climbing without pain.
Boulder re-set meant i was forced into using the steep side. I was going to sack it off and do routes but ended up climbing with a guy who's a very good boulderer. Learnt lots about steep bouldering. Got stuck around V4/5 and made a V5 my project. SHould have got it on the day but i was fading a bit by the end. I almost enjoyed steep bouldering and i can definitely see how it will benefit me so i'm going to stick with it.
Had a very quick BM session but left back two felt tweaky still from falling off my bike so not much done.
Didn't use my bike for college this week and unsurprisingly the fat didn't shift. Diet was good all week, but went to a 40th yesterday with free booze, barbecue and nibbles. Over indulged slightly.
Next week i'm off to Chapel Head Can't wait. Then got a plan to pay a visit to Kilnsey ( weather depending ) to pick a project. The Thumb or The Bulge are probably favourites.
STG's
Indoor routes - 12 route pyramid topping out at 7a
Outdoor - retroflash attempt on Tufa King Hard
Beastmaker session - few sets of repeaters to get going.
Bike to college twice
Physio
Rivington half Marathon off the sofa having not run since June/July time.
In reply to Dandan:
UKC Fit Club week 445
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here:http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: suggestion please! That Black Rocks one was pretty nice...
Fitclubber of the week award – how can I possibly even choose!?
biscuit - 7a good, bike fall bad! Hope there is no lasting damage
Exile - Thats a lot of fingerboarding, taking it careful I hope?
flopsicle - How is the head stuff coming along? Have you considered seeing a coach?
Joughton - Sounds like an amazing few weeks! That's a proper BHAG too!
alexm198 - have fun in London town, keep up the core sessions, you can never have too much core strength!
AJM - Well done with C&P, sounds like your head is in a positive place, would you consider leading it again?
Dandan82 - Blimey you really can talk, cant you. Back to reality now.
Ally Smith - Sounds like the rehab is on track, you need to get back on hard routes to burn off all the fatty work meals!
Ian Bell - Welcome back! I went to school with an Ian Bell, I very much doubt it was you... As for 3 boulder sessions, it is a lot but you could condition yourself to it with a bit of care.
Dr Nick - Nice little break, fingers crossed the wrist and finger stays good...
Tyler - Well done on the goal smashing! Get some updated goals up, quick!
hms - Get that shoulder looked at! When it's keeping you awake at night you know its time for action
Just Tintin - Congrats on the boulder comp win, and on realising that E1 is well within your abilities!
The Ex-Engineer - Welcome back! Sounds like you are still going strong, got any specific goals?
planetmarshall - fusing joints sounds extreme, is there a chance it will heal without doing that?
Richard Popp - Sounds like you proved that you need to do more fingerboarding! I'm pretty sure it shouldnt shut you down for 2 days...
mattrm - Sounds like psyche is low, get some ticks on that sport pyramid perhaps?
Joyce - Busy week as usual, well done on the 7B!
0.5viking - What are you now qualified to instruct?
Mutl3y - We'll be here whenever you want to return, have fun!
UKC Fit Club week 445
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502 The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here:http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Psyche video of the week: suggestion please! That Black Rocks one was pretty nice...
Fitclubber of the week award – how can I possibly even choose!?
biscuit - 7a good, bike fall bad! Hope there is no lasting damage
Exile - Thats a lot of fingerboarding, taking it careful I hope?
flopsicle - How is the head stuff coming along? Have you considered seeing a coach?
Joughton - Sounds like an amazing few weeks! That's a proper BHAG too!
alexm198 - have fun in London town, keep up the core sessions, you can never have too much core strength!
AJM - Well done with C&P, sounds like your head is in a positive place, would you consider leading it again?
Dandan82 - Blimey you really can talk, cant you. Back to reality now.
Ally Smith - Sounds like the rehab is on track, you need to get back on hard routes to burn off all the fatty work meals!
Ian Bell - Welcome back! I went to school with an Ian Bell, I very much doubt it was you... As for 3 boulder sessions, it is a lot but you could condition yourself to it with a bit of care.
Dr Nick - Nice little break, fingers crossed the wrist and finger stays good...
Tyler - Well done on the goal smashing! Get some updated goals up, quick!
hms - Get that shoulder looked at! When it's keeping you awake at night you know its time for action
Just Tintin - Congrats on the boulder comp win, and on realising that E1 is well within your abilities!
The Ex-Engineer - Welcome back! Sounds like you are still going strong, got any specific goals?
planetmarshall - fusing joints sounds extreme, is there a chance it will heal without doing that?
Richard Popp - Sounds like you proved that you need to do more fingerboarding! I'm pretty sure it shouldnt shut you down for 2 days...
mattrm - Sounds like psyche is low, get some ticks on that sport pyramid perhaps?
Joyce - Busy week as usual, well done on the 7B!
0.5viking - What are you now qualified to instruct?
Mutl3y - We'll be here whenever you want to return, have fun!
In reply to Dandan: Good to be back. Thinking about a sport climbing trip in December as my STG.
M - rest
T - Boulder + Easy Routes @ Brookes. Good session. Few blocs then 8x2xf5+ on lead plus a few more blocs including a few Red tags.
W - Boulder @ Brookes. Another OK session.
T - rest
F - Boulder @ Brookes. Short session, bit unstructured but ticked another Red so tactics were probably OK.
S - Boulder @ Milton Keynes. Good session, 18/18 blues (V2-3) and 9/13 of the black (V3-5) that I tried. Again slightly lacking in structure.
S - travel to Inverness...
Coming week should be fun (3 days easy trad in the 'Gorms) and ok for hill fitness but probably not very productive overall.
M - rest
T - Boulder + Easy Routes @ Brookes. Good session. Few blocs then 8x2xf5+ on lead plus a few more blocs including a few Red tags.
W - Boulder @ Brookes. Another OK session.
T - rest
F - Boulder @ Brookes. Short session, bit unstructured but ticked another Red so tactics were probably OK.
S - Boulder @ Milton Keynes. Good session, 18/18 blues (V2-3) and 9/13 of the black (V3-5) that I tried. Again slightly lacking in structure.
S - travel to Inverness...
Coming week should be fun (3 days easy trad in the 'Gorms) and ok for hill fitness but probably not very productive overall.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the thread Dandan. Hope you had a good time at Swanage?
I'm enjoying doing a bit of head learning and it seems to make sense to have it present. I've found some good vids online and been lent 2 books as a result of the thread - so all in all...
Mon - 1.5 mile school run. Watched 1.5 hrs of this youtube.com/watch?v=bt1xZ540Q7s& - most made a lot of sense but I'm always a little sceptical of these public speaker types!
Tues - 10 miles on my bike. Watched some boulder comp clips.
Weds - 4.5 miles of running in 2 bits, school run then proper run. 2.5 hrs ropes/leading - stuck to lots of exercises then got obsessed on one move. I set myself to climb a route with no hand holds other than 1 hand on the arete, about half way I needed to rock away from the arete so had to go hands free. It was a small step up to the rock over but a long haul for the (then) free leg. I was getting 25% of the time and wanted to stick with it till I learned what made the difference, upped my success to about 50% but still felt a bit random. I stopped once my shoes felt soggy!
Thurs - run of 2 halves, 3.2 miles in total. 2.6 miles bike to get the hill back from work.
Fri - 5.2 miles on the bike. CAC event at notts climbing centre so competed in the boulder comp (Yikesy hard! But great fun), won a rab jacket. That was followed by 1 hr coaching from Diane Merrick which was awesome!! I was SO wiped out and sore, everything felt like it needed me to wrench at my left knee, extremely worth it though. That night I came out with a full on cold, I think adrenaline had held it off.
Sat - 2 hrs bouldering. I was determined just to consolidate the learning on dynos, silent feet practice etc but got tempted into all sorts and after belaying a friend I fatally went back to my balance move on the slab (step up on the left, obviously!), only made the move once and stopped trying when I realised I was being truly dumb and hurty!
Sun - had daughter both still tired so had a chilled out day. Went to cotswolds to look at the jacket and try to decide whether to flog the voucher. It's an ace prize but I don't think I'd do it justice and if I sell I could buy 2 non rab jackets and let Munchkin have one too. On the other hand I could put the rab by for years to come - I dunno.
All in all my highlight was the CAC event, such an amazing atmosphere, it felt like home sweet home, even my best mate came to watch and while I had my coaching I could hear Munchkin laughing her head off. Perfick!
Thanks for the thread Dandan. Hope you had a good time at Swanage?
I'm enjoying doing a bit of head learning and it seems to make sense to have it present. I've found some good vids online and been lent 2 books as a result of the thread - so all in all...
Mon - 1.5 mile school run. Watched 1.5 hrs of this youtube.com/watch?v=bt1xZ540Q7s& - most made a lot of sense but I'm always a little sceptical of these public speaker types!
Tues - 10 miles on my bike. Watched some boulder comp clips.
Weds - 4.5 miles of running in 2 bits, school run then proper run. 2.5 hrs ropes/leading - stuck to lots of exercises then got obsessed on one move. I set myself to climb a route with no hand holds other than 1 hand on the arete, about half way I needed to rock away from the arete so had to go hands free. It was a small step up to the rock over but a long haul for the (then) free leg. I was getting 25% of the time and wanted to stick with it till I learned what made the difference, upped my success to about 50% but still felt a bit random. I stopped once my shoes felt soggy!
Thurs - run of 2 halves, 3.2 miles in total. 2.6 miles bike to get the hill back from work.
Fri - 5.2 miles on the bike. CAC event at notts climbing centre so competed in the boulder comp (Yikesy hard! But great fun), won a rab jacket. That was followed by 1 hr coaching from Diane Merrick which was awesome!! I was SO wiped out and sore, everything felt like it needed me to wrench at my left knee, extremely worth it though. That night I came out with a full on cold, I think adrenaline had held it off.
Sat - 2 hrs bouldering. I was determined just to consolidate the learning on dynos, silent feet practice etc but got tempted into all sorts and after belaying a friend I fatally went back to my balance move on the slab (step up on the left, obviously!), only made the move once and stopped trying when I realised I was being truly dumb and hurty!
Sun - had daughter both still tired so had a chilled out day. Went to cotswolds to look at the jacket and try to decide whether to flog the voucher. It's an ace prize but I don't think I'd do it justice and if I sell I could buy 2 non rab jackets and let Munchkin have one too. On the other hand I could put the rab by for years to come - I dunno.
All in all my highlight was the CAC event, such an amazing atmosphere, it felt like home sweet home, even my best mate came to watch and while I had my coaching I could hear Munchkin laughing her head off. Perfick!
Post edited at 21:29
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly, Dandan. Gotta love a bit of Swanage, I've only climbed there the once but it were right proper good (as they say around here)!
Training Diary WC 21/09/15
Great to be Out!
Monday – Nowt – pooped!
Tuesday – TCA with Tom. Still a bit tired – shoulders didn’t seem to have much in ‘em. Got stuck into a fair few sloper-y Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and Reds (hardest circuit) and failed gloriously on most – working towards STG though. Ticked a few crimpy Yellows. Finished with 27:30 of Aero-Cap 1 on/1 off on a 6A+(ish) on the less steep circuit board. Did a few sets of 2½ mins – 2 mins before fading a bit but mostly 33+ moves so an improvement for me.
Wednesday – Extended intervals: 6x1km reps aiming for 17:30/5K pace w/ 1min recovery jogs. Actually done in 21:19 at approx 3:33m/km pace (17:45/5K pace). Hard.
Thursday – Biblins Cave – a great session. Repeated The Bulge (7A) thrice from 3 attempts as a warm up. Climbed the power endurance-y/ last move crux-y School’s Out For Summer (7A+), on my third go this evening – STG met. Played on the crux moves around the pinch on Peckitt’s Traverse (7C) – some progress but needs much more work. Finished with a bit of a play on some of the moves of a low traverse from the start of Schools Out For Summer into The Bulge…interesting – will have to wait until next summer though as the bat ban begins at the end of this month.
Friday – Rest (spot of DIYing and furniture shiftage in t’ Supershed).
Saturday – Digging/sleepering. Then off to Avon Gorge with Tom. Fell off of The New Quarry Traverse (5c) a lot which is odd as I can normally ‘retroflash’ it on my very infrequent visits. Jumped on Bitter and Twisted (soft 7b) on lead, I’d top roped it clean a couple/few years ago and couldn't really remember any of it. Clipped first clip then jumped off before first proper lead attempt placing draws. Missed a hold above the fourth clip and took the lob. Sent second go (after pre-clipping the first bolt again) with some pumped flailing/digging deep/manning up to get to the fifth clip and a decent shake out before continuing to the LO. Well stoked on my improving stamina, ability to recover en route and determination to keep pushin' on. A really good route and a Brizzle rite of passage in the bag! Finished with a play on The Prince (8b), a bouldery wall/slab that has been labelled as a highball soft 7C boulder problem. Hard, techy and strangely compelling. Will be back on a cooler day with stronger fingers, better core strength and improved hip flexibility...
Sunday – Diggin’/sleepering – the end is not yet in sight! Also, did a 10K run in 39:25 at 3:57m/km with 130m of ascent. Done as a threshold run but did a wee bit of progression action by winding up the speed in the last couple of km. Felt great and smashed my all-time PB by 55s.
STGs (this month) : Still keep up the aero-cap training keep on cranking on the steep/ the slopers and nail all the Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and 8 Reds (hardest circuit) at TCA as well as the 7As on the Mothership.
Climb School Of Burl 7B – done - and School’s Out For Summer 7A+ at Biblins (also done), as well as the second half of Peckitt’s Traverse 7C from the pinch.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting!
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – not this week.
Weight = 69.7kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly, Dandan. Gotta love a bit of Swanage, I've only climbed there the once but it were right proper good (as they say around here)!
Training Diary WC 21/09/15
Great to be Out!
Monday – Nowt – pooped!
Tuesday – TCA with Tom. Still a bit tired – shoulders didn’t seem to have much in ‘em. Got stuck into a fair few sloper-y Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and Reds (hardest circuit) and failed gloriously on most – working towards STG though. Ticked a few crimpy Yellows. Finished with 27:30 of Aero-Cap 1 on/1 off on a 6A+(ish) on the less steep circuit board. Did a few sets of 2½ mins – 2 mins before fading a bit but mostly 33+ moves so an improvement for me.
Wednesday – Extended intervals: 6x1km reps aiming for 17:30/5K pace w/ 1min recovery jogs. Actually done in 21:19 at approx 3:33m/km pace (17:45/5K pace). Hard.
Thursday – Biblins Cave – a great session. Repeated The Bulge (7A) thrice from 3 attempts as a warm up. Climbed the power endurance-y/ last move crux-y School’s Out For Summer (7A+), on my third go this evening – STG met. Played on the crux moves around the pinch on Peckitt’s Traverse (7C) – some progress but needs much more work. Finished with a bit of a play on some of the moves of a low traverse from the start of Schools Out For Summer into The Bulge…interesting – will have to wait until next summer though as the bat ban begins at the end of this month.
Friday – Rest (spot of DIYing and furniture shiftage in t’ Supershed).
Saturday – Digging/sleepering. Then off to Avon Gorge with Tom. Fell off of The New Quarry Traverse (5c) a lot which is odd as I can normally ‘retroflash’ it on my very infrequent visits. Jumped on Bitter and Twisted (soft 7b) on lead, I’d top roped it clean a couple/few years ago and couldn't really remember any of it. Clipped first clip then jumped off before first proper lead attempt placing draws. Missed a hold above the fourth clip and took the lob. Sent second go (after pre-clipping the first bolt again) with some pumped flailing/digging deep/manning up to get to the fifth clip and a decent shake out before continuing to the LO. Well stoked on my improving stamina, ability to recover en route and determination to keep pushin' on. A really good route and a Brizzle rite of passage in the bag! Finished with a play on The Prince (8b), a bouldery wall/slab that has been labelled as a highball soft 7C boulder problem. Hard, techy and strangely compelling. Will be back on a cooler day with stronger fingers, better core strength and improved hip flexibility...
Sunday – Diggin’/sleepering – the end is not yet in sight! Also, did a 10K run in 39:25 at 3:57m/km with 130m of ascent. Done as a threshold run but did a wee bit of progression action by winding up the speed in the last couple of km. Felt great and smashed my all-time PB by 55s.
STGs (this month) : Still keep up the aero-cap training keep on cranking on the steep/ the slopers and nail all the Yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and 8 Reds (hardest circuit) at TCA as well as the 7As on the Mothership.
Climb School Of Burl 7B – done - and School’s Out For Summer 7A+ at Biblins (also done), as well as the second half of Peckitt’s Traverse 7C from the pinch.
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting!
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – not this week.
Weight = 69.7kg
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to biscuit:
Morning Camper,
I found that actually getting stuck in to steep bouldering was what really helped me to begin to improve at clambering about. Now, most of my harder problems have been on steep stuff, in no small part because the holds are bigger than on less steep stuff.
The toppest tip that I was given for steep stuff was to really push in and down with your toes on edges to force your feet into the holds and your bum/core up - this was a proper revelation for me, not least as it helps stop a lot of unnecessary cutting loose.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Camper,
I found that actually getting stuck in to steep bouldering was what really helped me to begin to improve at clambering about. Now, most of my harder problems have been on steep stuff, in no small part because the holds are bigger than on less steep stuff.
The toppest tip that I was given for steep stuff was to really push in and down with your toes on edges to force your feet into the holds and your bum/core up - this was a proper revelation for me, not least as it helps stop a lot of unnecessary cutting loose.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Post edited at 21:48
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the stats Dan, hope you had a good time in Swanage! I can report that everything seems to be functioning fine! I've had a pretty good week all told, happy to be getting more climbing in again.
M - Nothing. Travel back from Geneva.
T - 6km run, going 60s hard/30s easy (runners must have a name for this kind of pattern?)
W - Short session at UCR, just doing some circuits/boulders.
T - 9.6km run, going 1km easy/1km hard. Kept all four of the hard ones below 4:00 (best was 3:38), which is good for me.
F - Nothing. Drove to Torbay in the evening.
S - Berry Head. Climbed Moonraker with Dave (BALD EAGLE on here) seconding and filming, then Dreadnought. Really good to get back on this - it's been unfinished business for 2 years - and do it clean this time. After the epic of Moonraker (details below) I didn't really rehydrate at all, and my hands were cramping right off the belay but I pulled through!
S - Torbryan. Onsighted Barney Rubble (7a+) and then Boogie on Down, the 6c next door. Had a bit of a play on Threadbare (7c+), which I found very hard. It was downhill from there, with lots of dogging to retrieve draws.
The Moonraker film should be good. You may have seen some other of Dave's films (I appear in at least 3 of them), as they come up here and on BMC TV quite frequently. He and his friend Bob had this concept of sailing in to the base, climbing the route off the boat, and abbing back down to the boat, which we did! I don't get on very well with boats, and by the time we abbed back on to it, the wind had swung round and it was rocking a lot. Keeping my breakfast down for the short trip round the headland to set us down where the water was calmer was definitely the crux for me! Anyway, the film should be ready in a couple of months (certainly by the end of the year) - look out for it!
As for goals this winter, I'll try to get more specific over the coming weeks. The basic idea (as I was discussing in the spring) is that I haven't concentrated on bouldering/strength for a while (about 2 years), so a good focus on that over the winter should do me good. The running is going pretty well at the moment so I think I'm going to enter the Bath half marathon in March. If I can just maintain my current level I should be aiming for sub 90 and a decent PB.
Weight last Wednesday 66.39 (up from 65.25 the previous week - long weekend in France caused a very noticeable spike!)
> Dr Nick - Nice little break, fingers crossed the wrist and finger stays good...
Thanks for the stats Dan, hope you had a good time in Swanage! I can report that everything seems to be functioning fine! I've had a pretty good week all told, happy to be getting more climbing in again.
M - Nothing. Travel back from Geneva.
T - 6km run, going 60s hard/30s easy (runners must have a name for this kind of pattern?)
W - Short session at UCR, just doing some circuits/boulders.
T - 9.6km run, going 1km easy/1km hard. Kept all four of the hard ones below 4:00 (best was 3:38), which is good for me.
F - Nothing. Drove to Torbay in the evening.
S - Berry Head. Climbed Moonraker with Dave (BALD EAGLE on here) seconding and filming, then Dreadnought. Really good to get back on this - it's been unfinished business for 2 years - and do it clean this time. After the epic of Moonraker (details below) I didn't really rehydrate at all, and my hands were cramping right off the belay but I pulled through!
S - Torbryan. Onsighted Barney Rubble (7a+) and then Boogie on Down, the 6c next door. Had a bit of a play on Threadbare (7c+), which I found very hard. It was downhill from there, with lots of dogging to retrieve draws.
The Moonraker film should be good. You may have seen some other of Dave's films (I appear in at least 3 of them), as they come up here and on BMC TV quite frequently. He and his friend Bob had this concept of sailing in to the base, climbing the route off the boat, and abbing back down to the boat, which we did! I don't get on very well with boats, and by the time we abbed back on to it, the wind had swung round and it was rocking a lot. Keeping my breakfast down for the short trip round the headland to set us down where the water was calmer was definitely the crux for me! Anyway, the film should be ready in a couple of months (certainly by the end of the year) - look out for it!
As for goals this winter, I'll try to get more specific over the coming weeks. The basic idea (as I was discussing in the spring) is that I haven't concentrated on bouldering/strength for a while (about 2 years), so a good focus on that over the winter should do me good. The running is going pretty well at the moment so I think I'm going to enter the Bath half marathon in March. If I can just maintain my current level I should be aiming for sub 90 and a decent PB.
Weight last Wednesday 66.39 (up from 65.25 the previous week - long weekend in France caused a very noticeable spike!)
In reply to Dandan:
You liked the Black Rocks video? There's hope for you yet. Not a video, but impressive none the less:
http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/350-pounds-and-counting-jesse-shands-incred...
AJM - That's good to hear re the top and techyness.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 5lbs
M - Travelling
T - Nowt
W - 100 dish tucks
T - 300 dish tucks
F - Nowt
S - 100 dish tucks
S - 100 dish tucks
Monthly Avg - 33%
Yearly Avg - 66%
I don't really think that keeping the sport pyramid up there is worth much either. I'm really not bothered by doing it. I just need to keep a tick over for the next few months, while I finish off all the DIY I've got lined up. I have been doing a lot of DIY as well, squeezing the dish tucks in when I can. Managed to get a 300 on last week, which was good. As for the lack of psyche? I'm not fussed by sport really and the trad evening session season is over, so yeah, it's been a good year and I'm happy just to have a few months on tick over while I finish off the house.
SMART Goals for next week:
Thickness and flatten 3 more planks for back of cupboard (any one who's ever flattened a plank of wood with a hand plane will know that there is a bit of work involved there)
5k run
2 x 500 dish tuck sessions
1 climbing session
You liked the Black Rocks video? There's hope for you yet. Not a video, but impressive none the less:
http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/350-pounds-and-counting-jesse-shands-incred...
AJM - That's good to hear re the top and techyness.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 12st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 5lbs
M - Travelling
T - Nowt
W - 100 dish tucks
T - 300 dish tucks
F - Nowt
S - 100 dish tucks
S - 100 dish tucks
Monthly Avg - 33%
Yearly Avg - 66%
I don't really think that keeping the sport pyramid up there is worth much either. I'm really not bothered by doing it. I just need to keep a tick over for the next few months, while I finish off all the DIY I've got lined up. I have been doing a lot of DIY as well, squeezing the dish tucks in when I can. Managed to get a 300 on last week, which was good. As for the lack of psyche? I'm not fussed by sport really and the trad evening session season is over, so yeah, it's been a good year and I'm happy just to have a few months on tick over while I finish off the house.
SMART Goals for next week:
Thickness and flatten 3 more planks for back of cupboard (any one who's ever flattened a plank of wood with a hand plane will know that there is a bit of work involved there)
5k run
2 x 500 dish tuck sessions
1 climbing session
1
In reply to Dandan:
As in placing the gear for the full trad tick? Maybe - its nice climbing - but I suspect theres a lot of other things I'd probably do first.
Solid week this week.
Really solid training session on Tuesday - capacity-power session followed by 1on1off. Broke me a bit for Wednesday, where I did a less good capacity-power set, several grades down I think.
Rested Thursday and Friday - body was broken and skin trashed and I needed to recover for Saturday.
Saturday was assessment day with Tom. I can break down more detail if anyone actually cares but some good things and some definite areas of improvement identified to work on over the winter (plus a few short term tweaks for Kaly and Chulilla). Rode up into the Peak in the afternoon, in theory to go climbing but mainly it ended up with some lounging about in the sunshine and a short walk.
Sunday was the big ride of the season. Thank god for a low cassette, thats all I'm going to say. Turns out one way to increase the size of cycle and the scale of hills you can climb overnight is to get a bigger bottom gear on the back - transfers the load from being about leg power to the CV system because you can spin the pedals rather than push them (or push them hard rather than really eyes-popping-out hard, depending on the gradient!).
Very pleased to make it round, knees a bit screwed by the end (Ally and Nick had to hang around a bit to shepherd me in) so I'll need a few days resting those, and the section into feed station 2 was really laying the hurt down (looking at the map, its actually a respectable hill so maybe not entirely surprising). But I rode everything clean and didn't have to walk unlike so many others on the big 2 at the start.
https://www.strava.com/activities/401877530
Got a big week on the plan this week and then tapering into Kaly.
> AJM - Well done with C&P, sounds like your head is in a positive place, would you consider leading it again?
As in placing the gear for the full trad tick? Maybe - its nice climbing - but I suspect theres a lot of other things I'd probably do first.
Solid week this week.
Really solid training session on Tuesday - capacity-power session followed by 1on1off. Broke me a bit for Wednesday, where I did a less good capacity-power set, several grades down I think.
Rested Thursday and Friday - body was broken and skin trashed and I needed to recover for Saturday.
Saturday was assessment day with Tom. I can break down more detail if anyone actually cares but some good things and some definite areas of improvement identified to work on over the winter (plus a few short term tweaks for Kaly and Chulilla). Rode up into the Peak in the afternoon, in theory to go climbing but mainly it ended up with some lounging about in the sunshine and a short walk.
Sunday was the big ride of the season. Thank god for a low cassette, thats all I'm going to say. Turns out one way to increase the size of cycle and the scale of hills you can climb overnight is to get a bigger bottom gear on the back - transfers the load from being about leg power to the CV system because you can spin the pedals rather than push them (or push them hard rather than really eyes-popping-out hard, depending on the gradient!).
Very pleased to make it round, knees a bit screwed by the end (Ally and Nick had to hang around a bit to shepherd me in) so I'll need a few days resting those, and the section into feed station 2 was really laying the hurt down (looking at the map, its actually a respectable hill so maybe not entirely surprising). But I rode everything clean and didn't have to walk unlike so many others on the big 2 at the start.
https://www.strava.com/activities/401877530
Got a big week on the plan this week and then tapering into Kaly.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks to me for the stats, we had a really nice day at Swanage, reliving past glories at Winspit, beautiful weather, nice quiet crag.
M: Routes indoor: 6a+, 6b, 6c, 6c+, 7a, walked a 7b second go, all the moves on a 7c, couple of hangs. Dead chuffed with the 7b, after getting the sequence right it went super smoothly. The 7c is really my style too, positive crimps.
T:
W: Routes indoor: 6a, 6a+, 6c, 7a, 7a, good hit at the 7c again, two moves from the top clean! Elbow a bit achey so warmed down on some 6a/b's
T:
F:
S: DIY club, spare room fitted wardrobe is really coming together.
S: Winspit: 4, 6a, 6c+, 7a, 7a. Really nice to get back down there, not been for a good few years so a bunch of amnesia flashes. My wife got stuck into Peppercorn Rate (7a), could be a good 7a project for her so I may be revisiting, apparently some of the newer stuff on the front wall is pretty good, particularly Souls of Mischief (7c+) which I am keen to have a look at. Elbow aching again, seems to be a lingering background ache that I can climb through but I'd like to sort it out.
Good week all in, aside from the achey elbow, I'm just glad I haven't come back from Kaly with broken elbows like last time! I'm back on the training plan this week with an eye to be in super good shape for Easter next year, another trip to Kalymnos is on the cards. The plan starts with high volume stuff which should mean things are easier on my elbow for a while, try and rid myself of this nagging ache.
STG: Get back on the wagon training wise, time to improve my power endurance!
Set the sardonique crux on my boulder wall
MTG: I'd still like that 8a, this year would be nice
LTG: Still thinking...
Thanks to me for the stats, we had a really nice day at Swanage, reliving past glories at Winspit, beautiful weather, nice quiet crag.
M: Routes indoor: 6a+, 6b, 6c, 6c+, 7a, walked a 7b second go, all the moves on a 7c, couple of hangs. Dead chuffed with the 7b, after getting the sequence right it went super smoothly. The 7c is really my style too, positive crimps.
T:
W: Routes indoor: 6a, 6a+, 6c, 7a, 7a, good hit at the 7c again, two moves from the top clean! Elbow a bit achey so warmed down on some 6a/b's
T:
F:
S: DIY club, spare room fitted wardrobe is really coming together.
S: Winspit: 4, 6a, 6c+, 7a, 7a. Really nice to get back down there, not been for a good few years so a bunch of amnesia flashes. My wife got stuck into Peppercorn Rate (7a), could be a good 7a project for her so I may be revisiting, apparently some of the newer stuff on the front wall is pretty good, particularly Souls of Mischief (7c+) which I am keen to have a look at. Elbow aching again, seems to be a lingering background ache that I can climb through but I'd like to sort it out.
Good week all in, aside from the achey elbow, I'm just glad I haven't come back from Kaly with broken elbows like last time! I'm back on the training plan this week with an eye to be in super good shape for Easter next year, another trip to Kalymnos is on the cards. The plan starts with high volume stuff which should mean things are easier on my elbow for a while, try and rid myself of this nagging ache.
STG: Get back on the wagon training wise, time to improve my power endurance!
Set the sardonique crux on my boulder wall
MTG: I'd still like that 8a, this year would be nice
LTG: Still thinking...
1
In reply to Dandan:
I know, Dan! Physio session was always booked in for this afternoon, hence gritting my teeth for another week of sleepless nights. Spent the week attempting to be pro-active.
M - travel home from Geneva. Felt weirdly tired, but I guess short trips can be rather intense.
T - cycle commute, shoulder rehab a la Dave Macleod's book, plus some other shoulder realted exercises picked up from various sources.
W - cycle commute, shoulder rehab
T - cycle commute, shoulder rehab, planks
F - 5 miles of walking, shoulder rehab
S - gardening, bit of walking, almost a rest day
S - Armistice wall with D1. Started working Dynamism, now hard 7b due to hold loss. 2 TR goes & reckon I have all the moves (there are only 12 hand moves from start ledge to thank god for that final jug). Main issue is that move 2 is a wide stretch to a LH gaston, which turns out to be shoulder-unfriendly. Didn't push the move, need to work out another way of doing it.
so I've tried to be sensible. If have to steer clear of real climbing for longer then will throw more core/FB etc into the mix, but did feel that a week of not doing a lot except rehab & general background fitness was a good plan. Last 2 nights have been virtually pain free.
I know, Dan! Physio session was always booked in for this afternoon, hence gritting my teeth for another week of sleepless nights. Spent the week attempting to be pro-active.
M - travel home from Geneva. Felt weirdly tired, but I guess short trips can be rather intense.
T - cycle commute, shoulder rehab a la Dave Macleod's book, plus some other shoulder realted exercises picked up from various sources.
W - cycle commute, shoulder rehab
T - cycle commute, shoulder rehab, planks
F - 5 miles of walking, shoulder rehab
S - gardening, bit of walking, almost a rest day
S - Armistice wall with D1. Started working Dynamism, now hard 7b due to hold loss. 2 TR goes & reckon I have all the moves (there are only 12 hand moves from start ledge to thank god for that final jug). Main issue is that move 2 is a wide stretch to a LH gaston, which turns out to be shoulder-unfriendly. Didn't push the move, need to work out another way of doing it.
so I've tried to be sensible. If have to steer clear of real climbing for longer then will throw more core/FB etc into the mix, but did feel that a week of not doing a lot except rehab & general background fitness was a good plan. Last 2 nights have been virtually pain free.
2
In reply to Dandan:
Very bad week for training of any kind; very good weekend for performance, though I probably overstepped the shoulder rehab; time to back off the throttle for the next week or two and cement the rehab.
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Taming the Lion, E6 6c/7c+
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
3x week finger board sessions
3x week core sessions – more than just the 8min ab app
74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Rehab
- 2x >30km bike rides
- Do “daily ab workout” from silly app.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight.
Last week:
M - working late; some very minor stretching efforts, otherwise zilch.
T - FB4: 70% An-cap hangs with open crimp and back-3 + rehab. Rush to airport. Buffet dinner.
W - No exercise; 8am-10pm working/networking - Fatty refinery lunch and buffet dinner with Weiss beer.
T - No exercise - Buffet breakfast and buffet lunch – the answer to the question – “Who ate all the pies” is quite obvious…
F - Another long one at work – lost the plot a bit and decided climbing was the way forward. 30min falling off The Mudlark (f7A+) (vert 7A+/B) ensued before dusk arrived. Very glad of good company and a dinner cooked for me rather than sitting home alone on 5th anniversary of Emily’s death.
S - Physio, then Kilnsey. Collected perma-draws from Guns in the Sky (8b+) and then got tempted on to Seb’s new Dominatrix extension; 2nd time up, all I wanted to do was repeat Dominatrix; which i managed, but got pretty damn pumped in the process!
Euro recovery mode kicked in at the belay and despite having not practiced the top at all well, smashed on through to the belay for the second ascent of Drag Queen (7c+). Really quite chuffed
S - Epic 78mile hilly ride around the Peak with AJM & Nick. Like AJM, I was very happy for the addition of a lower gear, except I got bored with spinning and honked it out the saddle up most of Winnats pass. Considering putting a flat 100miler on the agenda.
Not too sore today – DOMS will probably arrive after lunch?
75.5kg this morning despite eating like a horse all yesterday. With no biking planned for the next couple of weeks I can concentrate on skinnifying myself again.
Very bad week for training of any kind; very good weekend for performance, though I probably overstepped the shoulder rehab; time to back off the throttle for the next week or two and cement the rehab.
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium or Tony Slab Chamonix
Kilnsey – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Taming the Lion, E6 6c/7c+
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
3x week finger board sessions
3x week core sessions – more than just the 8min ab app
74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Rehab
- 2x >30km bike rides
- Do “daily ab workout” from silly app.
- Maintain sub 76kg weight.
Last week:
M - working late; some very minor stretching efforts, otherwise zilch.
T - FB4: 70% An-cap hangs with open crimp and back-3 + rehab. Rush to airport. Buffet dinner.
W - No exercise; 8am-10pm working/networking - Fatty refinery lunch and buffet dinner with Weiss beer.
T - No exercise - Buffet breakfast and buffet lunch – the answer to the question – “Who ate all the pies” is quite obvious…
F - Another long one at work – lost the plot a bit and decided climbing was the way forward. 30min falling off The Mudlark (f7A+) (vert 7A+/B) ensued before dusk arrived. Very glad of good company and a dinner cooked for me rather than sitting home alone on 5th anniversary of Emily’s death.
S - Physio, then Kilnsey. Collected perma-draws from Guns in the Sky (8b+) and then got tempted on to Seb’s new Dominatrix extension; 2nd time up, all I wanted to do was repeat Dominatrix; which i managed, but got pretty damn pumped in the process!
Euro recovery mode kicked in at the belay and despite having not practiced the top at all well, smashed on through to the belay for the second ascent of Drag Queen (7c+). Really quite chuffed
S - Epic 78mile hilly ride around the Peak with AJM & Nick. Like AJM, I was very happy for the addition of a lower gear, except I got bored with spinning and honked it out the saddle up most of Winnats pass. Considering putting a flat 100miler on the agenda.
Not too sore today – DOMS will probably arrive after lunch?
75.5kg this morning despite eating like a horse all yesterday. With no biking planned for the next couple of weeks I can concentrate on skinnifying myself again.
3
In reply to Dandan:
Unfortunately this is really the only option I've been offered, however it's pretty routine and not as extreme as it sounds. I will lose some flexibility in my hand but I think it will be quite insignificant.
> planetmarshall - fusing joints sounds extreme, is there a chance it will heal without doing that?
Unfortunately this is really the only option I've been offered, however it's pretty routine and not as extreme as it sounds. I will lose some flexibility in my hand but I think it will be quite insignificant.
In reply to AJM:
Sad to admit but I wouldn't mind hearing more
> Saturday was assessment day with Tom. I can break down more detail if anyone actually cares
Sad to admit but I wouldn't mind hearing more
Post edited at 11:53
1
In reply to Tyler:
Finger strength - 90% bodyweight. Same as last year, so made up the ground lost to injury. Needs to be a few kg more to sit comfortably in his 8a+ bracket.
Assisted one armer - his big surprise (less so mine). Below where he would expect it to be currently let alone to progress towards 8a+. Again, a few kg improvement needed
Ancap - ~50% increase in absolute number of moves from last year to 13 so good improvement. He was expecting the gains here to be less (more on which later)
Aeropow - ~50% increase in absolute number of moves pulled to 44 which for where I'm at should in theory translate to a grade and a half increase in potential euro onsight grade. Down on expectations given where the ancap and aerocap are - potentially the missed sessions during the workaholic phase in august.
Aerocap - pronounced to have made good progress.
I think he'd expected the Max moves (aeropow) gains to have come more from increased fitness and less from the increase in underlying ancap, whose percentage has stayed fairly constant. Hence a suggestion that the aeropow could be higher as the ancap percentage of total could stand to fall further.
I'm apparently in slightly better shape for a redpoint trip than an onsight one.
Longer term, raw strength is the key area of improvement rather than either ancap or aerocap.
Finger strength - 90% bodyweight. Same as last year, so made up the ground lost to injury. Needs to be a few kg more to sit comfortably in his 8a+ bracket.
Assisted one armer - his big surprise (less so mine). Below where he would expect it to be currently let alone to progress towards 8a+. Again, a few kg improvement needed
Ancap - ~50% increase in absolute number of moves from last year to 13 so good improvement. He was expecting the gains here to be less (more on which later)
Aeropow - ~50% increase in absolute number of moves pulled to 44 which for where I'm at should in theory translate to a grade and a half increase in potential euro onsight grade. Down on expectations given where the ancap and aerocap are - potentially the missed sessions during the workaholic phase in august.
Aerocap - pronounced to have made good progress.
I think he'd expected the Max moves (aeropow) gains to have come more from increased fitness and less from the increase in underlying ancap, whose percentage has stayed fairly constant. Hence a suggestion that the aeropow could be higher as the ancap percentage of total could stand to fall further.
I'm apparently in slightly better shape for a redpoint trip than an onsight one.
Longer term, raw strength is the key area of improvement rather than either ancap or aerocap.
1
In reply to Joyce:
Cheers for that. I have been studiously avoiding proper steep stuff for years. Predictably I am not very good at it.
The big weaknesses are spotting the tricks and controlling a cut loose. Trying a problem, finding it really hard, then being shown what I'd missed and the path of the move was great.
Lots to learn=lots of improvements, I hope.
Both the possibles for my 8a goal are steep so nows the time.
Cheers for that. I have been studiously avoiding proper steep stuff for years. Predictably I am not very good at it.
The big weaknesses are spotting the tricks and controlling a cut loose. Trying a problem, finding it really hard, then being shown what I'd missed and the path of the move was great.
Lots to learn=lots of improvements, I hope.
Both the possibles for my 8a goal are steep so nows the time.
In reply to AJM:
Quite interested in where you thought you would be in relation to the results. Are you getting a feel for the different systems now and can feel what's strong, or lacking?
Quite interested in where you thought you would be in relation to the results. Are you getting a feel for the different systems now and can feel what's strong, or lacking?
In reply to biscuit:
I'm not sure really. Certainly not in quantitative terms. Before the previous one I wasn't training in the same sort of way so I don't know how sessions at my previous level would have felt. But some thoughts below:
I felt like I'd had some pretty solid ancap sessions so I'd hoped to see progress there. I'd felt fairly strong on boulder problems and stuff recently so had some potential feedback of improvement.
I had tried hard on a lot of the other more staminaey sessions but didn't really have a feel as to the level of pickup to expect and ive not done much trad or sport of late so had less of a measure. The speed of recovery on c&p at the top was a positive sign bit that's not much to go on.
Wasn't expecting much from the fingerboard given the injury. Unsurprised that my arms are weak really.
I'm not sure really. Certainly not in quantitative terms. Before the previous one I wasn't training in the same sort of way so I don't know how sessions at my previous level would have felt. But some thoughts below:
I felt like I'd had some pretty solid ancap sessions so I'd hoped to see progress there. I'd felt fairly strong on boulder problems and stuff recently so had some potential feedback of improvement.
I had tried hard on a lot of the other more staminaey sessions but didn't really have a feel as to the level of pickup to expect and ive not done much trad or sport of late so had less of a measure. The speed of recovery on c&p at the top was a positive sign bit that's not much to go on.
Wasn't expecting much from the fingerboard given the injury. Unsurprised that my arms are weak really.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fit club Dan. Finger boarding seems to be ok...
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Although may be getting side tracked!
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Rest. Away with work
T: am - 1hr 30min warm up and finger board. (Contact strength) Felt hard
W: pm - 1hr 30min warm up and finger board. (Contact strength) 30min traverses up to 6c+ (PE) 50 min run (Winter endurance). Felt unstoppable tonight!
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: 1hr 30 hard road ride with some proper cyclists (Winter endurance)
S: am - 1hr 30min trying (again!) A Vision of a Thing Gone Wild, 7b, Scout Scar. pm - 2hr family mtb ride on Ilkley Moor (Winter endurance)
A good week generally. Frankly had enough of AVOTGW so sacking it off and coming back in a couple of months / Spring when I've seen one / two training cycles through and am hopefully fitter for it.
Thanks for doing fit club Dan. Finger boarding seems to be ok...
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4) Although may be getting side tracked!
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Rest. Away with work
T: am - 1hr 30min warm up and finger board. (Contact strength) Felt hard
W: pm - 1hr 30min warm up and finger board. (Contact strength) 30min traverses up to 6c+ (PE) 50 min run (Winter endurance). Felt unstoppable tonight!
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: 1hr 30 hard road ride with some proper cyclists (Winter endurance)
S: am - 1hr 30min trying (again!) A Vision of a Thing Gone Wild, 7b, Scout Scar. pm - 2hr family mtb ride on Ilkley Moor (Winter endurance)
A good week generally. Frankly had enough of AVOTGW so sacking it off and coming back in a couple of months / Spring when I've seen one / two training cycles through and am hopefully fitter for it.
In reply to Si dH:
Percent of bodyweight you can hang one-armed on an edge. So on this given edge I need about 10% of my bodyweight on the counterweight rope to hold with the other hand.
Percent of bodyweight you can hang one-armed on an edge. So on this given edge I need about 10% of my bodyweight on the counterweight rope to hold with the other hand.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan!
Another 3-session week (boo!) so September has not been great for training, and have lots of work and my CWLA assessment this week. But my excuses are that last week I moved house, cleaned flat and had a day in the army, AND still managed another E2 onsight, so I’ll write off the lack of September training as my E numbers for my trad outings look pretty good.
M –Army. Fieldcraft = lots of exercise of various sorts.
T – lead pyramid Brookes to 6c onsight
W –rest. Packing, loading van and cleaning rental flat.
T – Completion day on house. Boulder Brookes while waiting for the call on keys. Moving.
F – moving
S – woke up 3am and was annoyed there was still a load to get from flat. Just went with it and drove over and finished packing stuff and cleaning by 4.30am. Back to bed for a couple of hours then overwhelmed by boxes everywhere made a spontaneous trip to Symonds Yat. Bagged another E1 (nails!) and E2 (soft!) onsight then noticed I was tired.
S – unpacking. Walk to the shops.
Thanks Dan!
Another 3-session week (boo!) so September has not been great for training, and have lots of work and my CWLA assessment this week. But my excuses are that last week I moved house, cleaned flat and had a day in the army, AND still managed another E2 onsight, so I’ll write off the lack of September training as my E numbers for my trad outings look pretty good.
M –Army. Fieldcraft = lots of exercise of various sorts.
T – lead pyramid Brookes to 6c onsight
W –rest. Packing, loading van and cleaning rental flat.
T – Completion day on house. Boulder Brookes while waiting for the call on keys. Moving.
F – moving
S – woke up 3am and was annoyed there was still a load to get from flat. Just went with it and drove over and finished packing stuff and cleaning by 4.30am. Back to bed for a couple of hours then overwhelmed by boxes everywhere made a spontaneous trip to Symonds Yat. Bagged another E1 (nails!) and E2 (soft!) onsight then noticed I was tired.
S – unpacking. Walk to the shops.
In reply to AJM:
Hi,
Sounds like an interesting measurement.
How big is the edge, are you holding open handed or crimp and how long do you have to hold it for?
90% one handed sounds pretty good to me!
Cheers
WB
Hi,
Sounds like an interesting measurement.
How big is the edge, are you holding open handed or crimp and how long do you have to hold it for?
90% one handed sounds pretty good to me!
Cheers
WB
In reply to WB:
Max hangs so 5secs. Choice of grip position but it has to remain constant throughout. Not sure how big it is - between a small and a medium campus rung somewhere I guess.
Max hangs so 5secs. Choice of grip position but it has to remain constant throughout. Not sure how big it is - between a small and a medium campus rung somewhere I guess.
In reply to WB:
I agree, I don't think Tom had enough weights available for me to do this test properly (I was that bad)! I'd be well chuffed with 90%. At least muscle strength comes quickly regarding your arms.
EDIT, I was using the chisel grip due to injuries though...
I agree, I don't think Tom had enough weights available for me to do this test properly (I was that bad)! I'd be well chuffed with 90%. At least muscle strength comes quickly regarding your arms.
EDIT, I was using the chisel grip due to injuries though...
Post edited at 12:31
In reply to cha1n:
If you were happy to share I'd be really curious to see what your stats were for the various tests, to help me understand better how the systems fit together and balance out, because we seem to have arrived at the same level/point (8a Max rp) from such completely different places that I think it would be an interesting comparison.
Edit {I guess I'm wondering whether it might help me identify a relative weakness because even with your finger injury you can presumably out boulder me and despite your self-claimed total lack of endurance and fingers which are presumably weaker than mine in the grip position in which you climbed Powerplant your max level is equal to mine which makes me wonder where in the chain I'm wasting the benefits of my greater endurance and currently stronger fingers}
If you were happy to share I'd be really curious to see what your stats were for the various tests, to help me understand better how the systems fit together and balance out, because we seem to have arrived at the same level/point (8a Max rp) from such completely different places that I think it would be an interesting comparison.
Edit {I guess I'm wondering whether it might help me identify a relative weakness because even with your finger injury you can presumably out boulder me and despite your self-claimed total lack of endurance and fingers which are presumably weaker than mine in the grip position in which you climbed Powerplant your max level is equal to mine which makes me wonder where in the chain I'm wasting the benefits of my greater endurance and currently stronger fingers}
Post edited at 12:53
In reply to AJM:
Just checked my report:
You scored 11.75kg on finger strength (half crimp) and 17.00kg (on 3 finger drag).
That was back when he was calling chisel half-crimp. I thought it was much worse than this but hey ho, I remember really struggling. He said in the report that it was well under average for my grade. Message me your email address and we can trade reports if you want? Doesn't bother me sharing my report.
I have no explanation really, I'm weak in the fingers and have bad endurance but I just seem to get up stuff. Perhaps I don't test well and can only pull hard when climbing.
Just checked my report:
You scored 11.75kg on finger strength (half crimp) and 17.00kg (on 3 finger drag).
That was back when he was calling chisel half-crimp. I thought it was much worse than this but hey ho, I remember really struggling. He said in the report that it was well under average for my grade. Message me your email address and we can trade reports if you want? Doesn't bother me sharing my report.
I have no explanation really, I'm weak in the fingers and have bad endurance but I just seem to get up stuff. Perhaps I don't test well and can only pull hard when climbing.
In reply to Dandan:
I'm keen on some of that front face steep stuff at winspit if you want to team up some point.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Could be interested in a flat 100 after my fail on the new forest one in august - keep me in the loop if you wouldn't find it too boring to wait for me
I'm keen on some of that front face steep stuff at winspit if you want to team up some point.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Could be interested in a flat 100 after my fail on the new forest one in august - keep me in the loop if you wouldn't find it too boring to wait for me
In reply to AJM:
I'll keep you in mind if we head down there any time soon
Also, is it just me that also really wants a Randall Report?
I'll keep you in mind if we head down there any time soon
Also, is it just me that also really wants a Randall Report?
2
In reply to cha1n:
My biggest single gain in % finger-strength came in my first year of training with Tom.
91% of BM on my first test up to 96% after 13months, but my boulder grade remained pretty much constant.
Aero-power went up from 39 to 50 moves at the same time; i got consistent at on-sighting continental 7c's, not just stamina tufa pitches.
Absolute an-cap was stationary over that period, which worked out as coming down from 31 to 25%.
This summer, training between and around injuries; i've been directed to get stronger and a higher absolute an-cap so that peak style routes are accessible.
100% BM finger strength is the benchmark for f8c; I'm at 98.6% now.
I'm guessing my an-cap is well up at the moment too, 'cos i got reet pumped at the weekend!
My biggest single gain in % finger-strength came in my first year of training with Tom.
91% of BM on my first test up to 96% after 13months, but my boulder grade remained pretty much constant.
Aero-power went up from 39 to 50 moves at the same time; i got consistent at on-sighting continental 7c's, not just stamina tufa pitches.
Absolute an-cap was stationary over that period, which worked out as coming down from 31 to 25%.
This summer, training between and around injuries; i've been directed to get stronger and a higher absolute an-cap so that peak style routes are accessible.
100% BM finger strength is the benchmark for f8c; I'm at 98.6% now.
I'm guessing my an-cap is well up at the moment too, 'cos i got reet pumped at the weekend!
In reply to cha1n:
I can't crimp the edge in Tom's basement - it just doesn't feel right. I've been half crimped (Tom's old definition of a chisel) for all my tests.
Barrows reckoned that Tom's test edge was easier to hang than a small campus rung; my interpretation of this was to train on a small rung, then crush Tom's edge
What i find interesting is the knowledge that Gareth and Ken are both >100% finger strength wads, but barely scrape their way up 8a / 7c respectively.
> I agree, I don't think Tom had enough weights available for me to do this test properly (I was that bad)! I'd be well chuffed with 90%. At least muscle strength comes quickly regarding your arms.
> EDIT, I was using the chisel grip due to injuries though...
I can't crimp the edge in Tom's basement - it just doesn't feel right. I've been half crimped (Tom's old definition of a chisel) for all my tests.
Barrows reckoned that Tom's test edge was easier to hang than a small campus rung; my interpretation of this was to train on a small rung, then crush Tom's edge
What i find interesting is the knowledge that Gareth and Ken are both >100% finger strength wads, but barely scrape their way up 8a / 7c respectively.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I think that I would fall into this category which makes me feel that I'm massively underperforming grade-wise. Be nice to take the test and see what is what though.
Off topic slightly, are you ok to do the stats this week Ally or did you want me to do them again?
> What i find interesting is the knowledge that Gareth and Ken are both >100% finger strength wads, but barely scrape their way up 8a / 7c respectively.
I think that I would fall into this category which makes me feel that I'm massively underperforming grade-wise. Be nice to take the test and see what is what though.
Off topic slightly, are you ok to do the stats this week Ally or did you want me to do them again?
In reply to Dandan:
Hi Dan.
Work is still fairly busy - another week of stats would be much appreciated.
Next week i'll get my intern up to speed, and maybe then they can do the stats for me!
Hi Dan.
Work is still fairly busy - another week of stats would be much appreciated.
Next week i'll get my intern up to speed, and maybe then they can do the stats for me!
In reply to Dandan:
There are equivalent beastmaker aero-power and an-cap tests for an online test, but i haven't the foggiest what the threshold values would be for each grade.
I should have done a foot-on campus test close to the last test with Tom to try and calibrate that data against the lattice board; alas that opportunity is well past
> I think that I would fall into this category which makes me feel that I'm massively underperforming grade-wise. Be nice to take the test and see what is what though.
There are equivalent beastmaker aero-power and an-cap tests for an online test, but i haven't the foggiest what the threshold values would be for each grade.
I should have done a foot-on campus test close to the last test with Tom to try and calibrate that data against the lattice board; alas that opportunity is well past
In reply to Ally Smith:
I can do the stats again, no problems.
It's only 2 hours to Sheffield from work, I might have to bit the bullet and head up one afternoon perhaps, I really like the sound of his methods.
I can do the stats again, no problems.
It's only 2 hours to Sheffield from work, I might have to bit the bullet and head up one afternoon perhaps, I really like the sound of his methods.
In reply to hms:
EDIT* Tried to give beta on dynamism but on further reflecting realised I don't properly remember the movements even though it was only a few months ago! Sorry. Joyce was watching and may remember beta.
Andy, I've sent it over, enjoy the "Your anaerobic capacity lies at levels that are presently low for a boulderer and also low for a route climber." comment.
EDIT* Tried to give beta on dynamism but on further reflecting realised I don't properly remember the movements even though it was only a few months ago! Sorry. Joyce was watching and may remember beta.
Andy, I've sent it over, enjoy the "Your anaerobic capacity lies at levels that are presently low for a boulderer and also low for a route climber." comment.
Post edited at 18:38
In reply to AJM:
Fairly similar to the bottom middle rung on a bm2000? (Im guessing worse than the better pair of crimps)
> Max hangs so 5secs. Choice of grip position but it has to remain constant throughout. Not sure how big it is - between a small and a medium campus rung somewhere I guess.
Fairly similar to the bottom middle rung on a bm2000? (Im guessing worse than the better pair of crimps)
In reply to Si dH:
Not sure about depth, but less incut - I find myself wanting a different grip on the BM hold because of its angle as opposed to the flatter edge.
A flat edge slightly less than a medium (25mm) campus rung size, I would say - I've got one of those upside down (so its flat rather than incut when put on a vertical backing board) with some 6mm ply at the back to make it narrower and I think that would be a bit too shallow. However, the foot on campus board is in the way of my doing an equivalent test to work out an actual answer!
Not sure about depth, but less incut - I find myself wanting a different grip on the BM hold because of its angle as opposed to the flatter edge.
A flat edge slightly less than a medium (25mm) campus rung size, I would say - I've got one of those upside down (so its flat rather than incut when put on a vertical backing board) with some 6mm ply at the back to make it narrower and I think that would be a bit too shallow. However, the foot on campus board is in the way of my doing an equivalent test to work out an actual answer!
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan et al, funny old time, work has suddenly upped the anti with a few deadlines where none were expected getting in the way of what I thought might be a bit of a focussed time.
Still going to keep chipping away, a lot of things feel quite positive and work should settle down by mid October. Some useful feedback re finger boarding helped me remember to go back to weaknesses which have long been identified.
So nothing great last week but managing to tick over-
Mon-Long day at work-stretching and shoulder
Tues-TCA-OK session, stil trying to tick a last few blues, one more ticked by basically pulling harder
Wed-Stretching and shoulder
Thurs-TCA, good session in as much as enjoyed and ticked another blue by improved technique and holding on tighter.
Fri-Nothing, worked very late
Sat-Driving and helping aged P but couple of nice walks with dog (which I don't count)
Sun-Cheddar- I definitely climb better when I climb more so dropped a few grades and did 7 routes to 6b+ in three hours-cold wind, very enjoyable to just climb.
This week is tough but hopefully get out on weekend-pity to be missing all this good weather but got to look at the long game right now.
Rich
Cheers Dan et al, funny old time, work has suddenly upped the anti with a few deadlines where none were expected getting in the way of what I thought might be a bit of a focussed time.
Still going to keep chipping away, a lot of things feel quite positive and work should settle down by mid October. Some useful feedback re finger boarding helped me remember to go back to weaknesses which have long been identified.
So nothing great last week but managing to tick over-
Mon-Long day at work-stretching and shoulder
Tues-TCA-OK session, stil trying to tick a last few blues, one more ticked by basically pulling harder
Wed-Stretching and shoulder
Thurs-TCA, good session in as much as enjoyed and ticked another blue by improved technique and holding on tighter.
Fri-Nothing, worked very late
Sat-Driving and helping aged P but couple of nice walks with dog (which I don't count)
Sun-Cheddar- I definitely climb better when I climb more so dropped a few grades and did 7 routes to 6b+ in three hours-cold wind, very enjoyable to just climb.
This week is tough but hopefully get out on weekend-pity to be missing all this good weather but got to look at the long game right now.
Rich
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing Fitclub Dan! How is your elbow doing now? Mine started aching as well last week, but I feel like it stayed under the radar and will take it easy a bit just to be sure. As for the qualification, I’m now allowed to instruct toproping and leadclimbing (though I don’t agree on a weekends (2x8hours) course for complete newbies to learn both toproping and leading).
Weight: 68.3kg
M: 2 hour bicycle ride + 30 mins walk to a crag just to check it out
T: rest
W: climbing indoors, elbow hurt a lot, got on the project, but got shut down same place. Then worked the moves on a route graded 7a+/b, but my and others guess would be 6c, will make that route a project as well.
T: strength training: shoulders, push ups, and dips
F: running and core
S: rest/walk
S: climbing outdoors, led a 6a onsight, then decided toproping was better for my elbow, then did 6a, 6a+ and 6b+, then led the same warmup 6a to retrieve my mates’ draws.
Thanks for doing Fitclub Dan! How is your elbow doing now? Mine started aching as well last week, but I feel like it stayed under the radar and will take it easy a bit just to be sure. As for the qualification, I’m now allowed to instruct toproping and leadclimbing (though I don’t agree on a weekends (2x8hours) course for complete newbies to learn both toproping and leading).
Weight: 68.3kg
M: 2 hour bicycle ride + 30 mins walk to a crag just to check it out
T: rest
W: climbing indoors, elbow hurt a lot, got on the project, but got shut down same place. Then worked the moves on a route graded 7a+/b, but my and others guess would be 6c, will make that route a project as well.
T: strength training: shoulders, push ups, and dips
F: running and core
S: rest/walk
S: climbing outdoors, led a 6a onsight, then decided toproping was better for my elbow, then did 6a, 6a+ and 6b+, then led the same warmup 6a to retrieve my mates’ draws.
In reply to Dandan:
Late entry, reflects the sort of week I've had.
Goals:
Single undercut circuit
Single GBH Circuit
Double undercut circuit
Three of the Outhouse benchmarks - Done
SYT
OS 7b+ in Spain in Nov
Blue-orange
Toadal
Baboo
Double GBH circuit
GBH
M: Worked late
T: Went to Longridge only to discover I'd forgotten my chalk bag. Remarkably no one there so turned around and went Boulder UK as I only had a short time until dark. Good session upstairs, did all at one of the new 5s. There were no sixes
W: Planned rest
T: Malham....on a school day! Team failure on SYT, best effort had me at the 'block' but unable to clip.
F: parents visit
S: Wall paper stripping
S: Wall paper stripping followed by Outhouse, failed on GBH circuit but nearly completed orange-blue at end of session - massive breakthrough
Late entry, reflects the sort of week I've had.
Goals:
Single undercut circuit
Single GBH Circuit
Double undercut circuit
Three of the Outhouse benchmarks - Done
SYT
OS 7b+ in Spain in Nov
Blue-orange
Toadal
Baboo
Double GBH circuit
GBH
M: Worked late
T: Went to Longridge only to discover I'd forgotten my chalk bag. Remarkably no one there so turned around and went Boulder UK as I only had a short time until dark. Good session upstairs, did all at one of the new 5s. There were no sixes
W: Planned rest
T: Malham....on a school day! Team failure on SYT, best effort had me at the 'block' but unable to clip.
F: parents visit
S: Wall paper stripping
S: Wall paper stripping followed by Outhouse, failed on GBH circuit but nearly completed orange-blue at end of session - massive breakthrough
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