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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=627732
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: youtube.com/watch?v=VapbvTq8GOE& Nice to see what effort he put in that route!
Exile: Did you start PE? Is the PE also to prepare for winter season or for rock?
Spenser: Got some toproping done this week? And more important, did the ankle tolerated it?
Dandan82: Annoying with the elbow issues, any progress this week? I improved a lot after stopping the weight on stick exercise, but I did it as a supplement to climbing which might be too much. Hope you’ll find out what works for you!
AJM: congrats on the 7b onsights! Did you visit one of the UK projects this week or did you take it easy after the holiday?
Hms: Sounds like a really good week! Did your shoulder held up doing so much? And did you have time for some Chulilla route preparation this week?
Biscuit: Did you have time to make a plan of progress? If so, what’s the plan?
Alexm198: Sounds like you did well in Cham, despite not reaching your 50 routes goal. Did the warm weather this summer had anything to do with it? What about this week, did weather allowed trying both routes? Swiss route looks really nice!
The Ex-Engineer: congrats on your best week since rejoining! Did you manage to do some training while being away?
Flopsicle: Good that you joined the dynocomp! Did you have a quality week again this week?
Tyler: Nice that you have solved the moves on GBH! Did you get on it this week? And managed to double the red circuit?
Nick Russell: Solid Sunday with 2 E4 ticks! Got any outdoor climbing done this week or did the lurgy’s get in the way?
Ian Bell: How was the weekend in Font? And did you tick your last WW project?
Ally Smith: Must be a confidence booster with all the PB’s on the fingerboard! Did you get a chance to finish Toadal Recall this week?
Just Tintin: Congrats on the V6! Did you manage some more WBL ticks this week?
TonyB: welcome back! Did you have a chance to take a look at some of the 8a’s last week?
Mattrm: Bummer that you were ill all week! Any better this week?
Planetmarshall: Good luck on the hand operation. Did you get out drytooling this weekend? With two M7 onsights, Jaz should definitely be doable!
Humperdink: Good performance on the race after having some hamstring trouble previous week! Did you manage to keep mileage this week?
Joyce: Solid volume as usual and congrats on the 7A flash, good you started fall practice as well! Did you find a solution for your 20/24 move plateau? Maybe the upped aero pow circuit will help?
0.5viking: get on some fingery stuff again!
Richard Popp: Nice you saw progress in being stronger and moving better, that should be motivating for trying harder on the indoor bouldering! Managed to get outside this week to get the bad session from last week out of the mind?
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=627732
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: youtube.com/watch?v=VapbvTq8GOE& Nice to see what effort he put in that route!
Exile: Did you start PE? Is the PE also to prepare for winter season or for rock?
Spenser: Got some toproping done this week? And more important, did the ankle tolerated it?
Dandan82: Annoying with the elbow issues, any progress this week? I improved a lot after stopping the weight on stick exercise, but I did it as a supplement to climbing which might be too much. Hope you’ll find out what works for you!
AJM: congrats on the 7b onsights! Did you visit one of the UK projects this week or did you take it easy after the holiday?
Hms: Sounds like a really good week! Did your shoulder held up doing so much? And did you have time for some Chulilla route preparation this week?
Biscuit: Did you have time to make a plan of progress? If so, what’s the plan?
Alexm198: Sounds like you did well in Cham, despite not reaching your 50 routes goal. Did the warm weather this summer had anything to do with it? What about this week, did weather allowed trying both routes? Swiss route looks really nice!
The Ex-Engineer: congrats on your best week since rejoining! Did you manage to do some training while being away?
Flopsicle: Good that you joined the dynocomp! Did you have a quality week again this week?
Tyler: Nice that you have solved the moves on GBH! Did you get on it this week? And managed to double the red circuit?
Nick Russell: Solid Sunday with 2 E4 ticks! Got any outdoor climbing done this week or did the lurgy’s get in the way?
Ian Bell: How was the weekend in Font? And did you tick your last WW project?
Ally Smith: Must be a confidence booster with all the PB’s on the fingerboard! Did you get a chance to finish Toadal Recall this week?
Just Tintin: Congrats on the V6! Did you manage some more WBL ticks this week?
TonyB: welcome back! Did you have a chance to take a look at some of the 8a’s last week?
Mattrm: Bummer that you were ill all week! Any better this week?
Planetmarshall: Good luck on the hand operation. Did you get out drytooling this weekend? With two M7 onsights, Jaz should definitely be doable!
Humperdink: Good performance on the race after having some hamstring trouble previous week! Did you manage to keep mileage this week?
Joyce: Solid volume as usual and congrats on the 7A flash, good you started fall practice as well! Did you find a solution for your 20/24 move plateau? Maybe the upped aero pow circuit will help?
0.5viking: get on some fingery stuff again!
Richard Popp: Nice you saw progress in being stronger and moving better, that should be motivating for trying harder on the indoor bouldering! Managed to get outside this week to get the bad session from last week out of the mind?
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for the stats Viking. Outside climbing is a distant memory now, easy writeup this week.
M-S - ill
I had a brief respite on Thursday when I thought I was getting over it, but took a nose dive Friday and yesterday. Hopefully it doesn't clobber too much of next week. Looking forward to reading the more exciting reports from everyone else!
> Nick Russell: Solid Sunday with 2 E4 ticks! Got any outdoor climbing done this week or did the lurgy£s get in the way?
Thanks for the stats Viking. Outside climbing is a distant memory now, easy writeup this week.
M-S - ill
I had a brief respite on Thursday when I thought I was getting over it, but took a nose dive Friday and yesterday. Hopefully it doesn't clobber too much of next week. Looking forward to reading the more exciting reports from everyone else!
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats.
Nick - Hope you're better again soon.
STG - Climb outside again...
Weight - 12st 7lbs (STS)
M - F - Ill
S - S - Bit of DIY
Monthly Avg - 0%
Yearly Avg - 64%
Pretty much the same as last week. Lungs still bad. Trying to rest up and clean the house more. Felt well enough to do some work in the shed yesterday. Just heading into the kitchen to do some more DIY. Then I'll chill out this evening. I'm getting to the point I think where I can do some exercise. So think I might head down the climbing wall this week.
Thanks for doing the stats.
Nick - Hope you're better again soon.
STG - Climb outside again...
Weight - 12st 7lbs (STS)
M - F - Ill
S - S - Bit of DIY
Monthly Avg - 0%
Yearly Avg - 64%
Pretty much the same as last week. Lungs still bad. Trying to rest up and clean the house more. Felt well enough to do some work in the shed yesterday. Just heading into the kitchen to do some more DIY. Then I'll chill out this evening. I'm getting to the point I think where I can do some exercise. So think I might head down the climbing wall this week.
Post edited at 11:00
In reply to 0.5viking:
thanks Viking. As suspected, family shizzle did indeed kick off, but hurling myself at lots of circuits proved fairly therapeutic, so I also got a lot done. Bit hazy as to exactly what I did when, but it was something like this:
M - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR, circuits in large quantities.
W - cycle commute. S&C x 3. Using full weight on both sides, but being v watchful of the left. Shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard - 7sec hang, 4 sec rest x6 then 3 min rest. Did this x10 on variety of holds. 10 min rest, then x10 again. Didn't use the smallest holds but did get on most of the rest. Mainly at 1/2 lock as seems easier to control shoulders like that.
F - UCR routes. 14, inc a (v soft) 7a onsight, plus getting the 7a that Joyce & I were trying clean. Quite a lot of new 7bs have appeared so need to be getting on some of them now too.
S - press-ups and shoulder weights exercises.
S - Bloc, mammoth circuits session - well in excess of 20 and a lot of those were in pairs. They have really good fingery 6b+ & 6c+ circuits up at the moment, which is excellent training for Chulilla. By the end of the session I could barely do the easy 6a any more I was so tired!
thanks Viking. As suspected, family shizzle did indeed kick off, but hurling myself at lots of circuits proved fairly therapeutic, so I also got a lot done. Bit hazy as to exactly what I did when, but it was something like this:
M - cycle commute. Shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR, circuits in large quantities.
W - cycle commute. S&C x 3. Using full weight on both sides, but being v watchful of the left. Shoulder rehab.
T - cycle commute. Fingerboard - 7sec hang, 4 sec rest x6 then 3 min rest. Did this x10 on variety of holds. 10 min rest, then x10 again. Didn't use the smallest holds but did get on most of the rest. Mainly at 1/2 lock as seems easier to control shoulders like that.
F - UCR routes. 14, inc a (v soft) 7a onsight, plus getting the 7a that Joyce & I were trying clean. Quite a lot of new 7bs have appeared so need to be getting on some of them now too.
S - press-ups and shoulder weights exercises.
S - Bloc, mammoth circuits session - well in excess of 20 and a lot of those were in pairs. They have really good fingery 6b+ & 6c+ circuits up at the moment, which is excellent training for Chulilla. By the end of the session I could barely do the easy 6a any more I was so tired!
Post edited at 14:41
1
In reply to 0.5viking: I've had a surprisingly decent week despite mainly being rained on in the Brecon Beacons.
M - No climbing, a few exercises before dinner (pyramid starting at 15/30 pull ups/press ups, totalling 120/240).
T - No climbing, 6hrs easy walking, a few exercises before dinner (offsets, L hangs, one leg squats (assisted) & pull ups).
W - Seven hours easy walking then Bouldering @ Dynamic Rock, Swansea. 18/20 of the Font6s plus the one F7A.
T - Nowt apart from perhaps an hour walking.
F - Bouldering @ TCA. Flashed the Orange circuit to warm up then 26/29 of the new Blacks. IIRC 4,21&22 eluded me.
S - Bouldering @ Big Rock. Started the WBL problems, feeling tired but got 23/40 ticked.
S - TBC. Probably a short session Bouldering @ Brookes this evening. Reset on Wed so will try the Orange on the arête that I've been working and then try and do some core, stretching and antagonist stuff as I've been rather remiss during my other sessions.
M - No climbing, a few exercises before dinner (pyramid starting at 15/30 pull ups/press ups, totalling 120/240).
T - No climbing, 6hrs easy walking, a few exercises before dinner (offsets, L hangs, one leg squats (assisted) & pull ups).
W - Seven hours easy walking then Bouldering @ Dynamic Rock, Swansea. 18/20 of the Font6s plus the one F7A.
T - Nowt apart from perhaps an hour walking.
F - Bouldering @ TCA. Flashed the Orange circuit to warm up then 26/29 of the new Blacks. IIRC 4,21&22 eluded me.
S - Bouldering @ Big Rock. Started the WBL problems, feeling tired but got 23/40 ticked.
S - TBC. Probably a short session Bouldering @ Brookes this evening. Reset on Wed so will try the Orange on the arête that I've been working and then try and do some core, stretching and antagonist stuff as I've been rather remiss during my other sessions.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing fit club.
The PE is rock based. I'm running through a training cycle up to Christmas and then reviewing it to see how I can tweak it for a Jan - April rerun ready to climb outside.
2015 aims:
Winter2015 / 16 Consolidate VI 7.
Spring / early Summer 2016: A couple more 7b RPs and OS 6c
Summer 2016 OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 2.5hrs at the wall in Milton Keynes, (away with work) did all but 2 of the V2 - V4 circuit. (Endurance)
T: 50min road run (Winter endurance)
W: Rest
T: 1hr 30min short boulder problems (Power)
F: Tried to go dry tooling but it was too wet so my boots kept skidding off holds meaning I was in danger of clubbing myself with an axe. (I don't DT with crampons on.)
S: Rest
S: 1hr 30 short boulder problems at wall. (Power) Started to figure out how to link the easier problems to move into PE next week.
Ok week. Could have done with another cardio session but was feeling a little snotty when running.
Thanks for doing fit club.
The PE is rock based. I'm running through a training cycle up to Christmas and then reviewing it to see how I can tweak it for a Jan - April rerun ready to climb outside.
2015 aims:
Winter2015 / 16 Consolidate VI 7.
Spring / early Summer 2016: A couple more 7b RPs and OS 6c
Summer 2016 OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 2.5hrs at the wall in Milton Keynes, (away with work) did all but 2 of the V2 - V4 circuit. (Endurance)
T: 50min road run (Winter endurance)
W: Rest
T: 1hr 30min short boulder problems (Power)
F: Tried to go dry tooling but it was too wet so my boots kept skidding off holds meaning I was in danger of clubbing myself with an axe. (I don't DT with crampons on.)
S: Rest
S: 1hr 30 short boulder problems at wall. (Power) Started to figure out how to link the easier problems to move into PE next week.
Ok week. Could have done with another cardio session but was feeling a little snotty when running.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Afternoon Viking, thanks for the thread! Swiss Route does indeed look ace, unfortunately it didn't work out
M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Decided the 2000m slog up to the Sans Nom face wasn't going to be much fun so opted to try and do a link-up of the Chardonnet/Argentiere/Verte over two days. 3hr/1200m approach to Albert Premier.
T: Up early, 3 hour approach to the Chardonnet N Face. Started up the Aureille-Feutren Gully (TD) but had to back off low down due to awful conditions. Should've been a straightforward icy romp but instead was overhanging dry tooling with a big pack and suspect gear. Psyche took a beating. 4 hours of walking back down to the valley.
F: Seriously sore legs!
S: Still sore, more rest.
S: Had plans to head up to the Argentiere Basin to do Swiss Route & Ginat, which would've been my 2015 LTG ticked but my partner had to bail at the last minute. Incredibly disappointing.
So all in all quite bleak, but I guess plans falling apart is all part of the alpine game. An interesting observation over the last month or so has been that my ability to recover from big days has really dropped off dramatically. Maybe this is just cumulative fatigue, or maybe I just don't have the aerobic background to deal with this amount of stuff over a sustained period of time.
Anyway, I've consoled myself by putting together lots of tick lists for the coming year, so I've got some good targets to work towards in all disciplines. I'm feeling determined to go away and get stronger and get some good alpine ticks in the spring off the back of another good winter season in Scotland.
I think I'm going to take a couple of weeks away from climbing and just get out on some cruisy recovery runs once I'm back home to just have a bit of a break and come back to it with fresh perspective. Will update STG/MTG/LTG once I get back to training regularly.
Afternoon Viking, thanks for the thread! Swiss Route does indeed look ace, unfortunately it didn't work out
M: Nothing
T: Nothing
W: Decided the 2000m slog up to the Sans Nom face wasn't going to be much fun so opted to try and do a link-up of the Chardonnet/Argentiere/Verte over two days. 3hr/1200m approach to Albert Premier.
T: Up early, 3 hour approach to the Chardonnet N Face. Started up the Aureille-Feutren Gully (TD) but had to back off low down due to awful conditions. Should've been a straightforward icy romp but instead was overhanging dry tooling with a big pack and suspect gear. Psyche took a beating. 4 hours of walking back down to the valley.
F: Seriously sore legs!
S: Still sore, more rest.
S: Had plans to head up to the Argentiere Basin to do Swiss Route & Ginat, which would've been my 2015 LTG ticked but my partner had to bail at the last minute. Incredibly disappointing.
So all in all quite bleak, but I guess plans falling apart is all part of the alpine game. An interesting observation over the last month or so has been that my ability to recover from big days has really dropped off dramatically. Maybe this is just cumulative fatigue, or maybe I just don't have the aerobic background to deal with this amount of stuff over a sustained period of time.
Anyway, I've consoled myself by putting together lots of tick lists for the coming year, so I've got some good targets to work towards in all disciplines. I'm feeling determined to go away and get stronger and get some good alpine ticks in the spring off the back of another good winter season in Scotland.
I think I'm going to take a couple of weeks away from climbing and just get out on some cruisy recovery runs once I'm back home to just have a bit of a break and come back to it with fresh perspective. Will update STG/MTG/LTG once I get back to training regularly.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers Viking.
I've gone one better than sorting out my own deficiences (very hard to do objectively) and booked a day with John Kettle so we can find weaknesses/strengths and draw a plan up. I've only got one realistic shot at this as after this academic year things are going to be very busy for the next three so best to get it right. It's booked for after the holiday in mid December. Really looking forward to it - unless he says it's not possible
Good week this week:
Tues - fingerboard. Still feels hard, so need to keep doing it. My AC joint problem flared up after the session. I think it may be to do with the amount of squeezing in i do to try and use other muscles to make up for my weak fingers. I'm going to try again this week and not 'cheat'. It will probably lead to dismal results but failure is the path to success etc...
Wed - eve sesh with The Fox. Instead of the expected doubles session we went for lets try lots of really hard 7b's. Owch! Really good session. For me the plusses were going for moves on the Mammutt ( it often freaks me out ) and not caring about falling. The minuses were that what was really letting me down was my movement. Lots of pulling with arms, trying to static dynamic moves and general puntery. Ally reckoned it was harder than 7b so no great ego bashing. Can do all the moves, just not put them together. Great session though. For me it hammered home the fact that i have stamina and strength but not the ability to do really sustained sequences, and my technique goes to pot when i'm really tested. My instant reaction was that i needed to get on that type of training. This is not necessarily true as i am still easing back into 'training'and need to think first. Hence going back to John for yoda like decisions. Also had an interesting chat about imbalances. Tried the exercises mentioned and he's right. Very old (more than a decade) problem and it's time to sort it.
Thurs - was worried third day on after a hard sesh the night before would mean a bad session. Wrong! Back to triples and it's time to up the ante. All done apart from the 2x 7a's in the middle. This was on a new 7a as well and i surprised myself by how far i got on each attempt. Rushed for time, minimal resting and super positive session.
It turns out having motivated training (not climbing) partners, that you know pay attention whilst belaying, makes a huge difference.
Had something going on in the background all week. Feeling weak, crampy in the legs and shaky like low blood sugar. But diet has been good. Feel OK now though so full steam ahead this week before the holidays.
Cheers Viking.
I've gone one better than sorting out my own deficiences (very hard to do objectively) and booked a day with John Kettle so we can find weaknesses/strengths and draw a plan up. I've only got one realistic shot at this as after this academic year things are going to be very busy for the next three so best to get it right. It's booked for after the holiday in mid December. Really looking forward to it - unless he says it's not possible
Good week this week:
Tues - fingerboard. Still feels hard, so need to keep doing it. My AC joint problem flared up after the session. I think it may be to do with the amount of squeezing in i do to try and use other muscles to make up for my weak fingers. I'm going to try again this week and not 'cheat'. It will probably lead to dismal results but failure is the path to success etc...
Wed - eve sesh with The Fox. Instead of the expected doubles session we went for lets try lots of really hard 7b's. Owch! Really good session. For me the plusses were going for moves on the Mammutt ( it often freaks me out ) and not caring about falling. The minuses were that what was really letting me down was my movement. Lots of pulling with arms, trying to static dynamic moves and general puntery. Ally reckoned it was harder than 7b so no great ego bashing. Can do all the moves, just not put them together. Great session though. For me it hammered home the fact that i have stamina and strength but not the ability to do really sustained sequences, and my technique goes to pot when i'm really tested. My instant reaction was that i needed to get on that type of training. This is not necessarily true as i am still easing back into 'training'and need to think first. Hence going back to John for yoda like decisions. Also had an interesting chat about imbalances. Tried the exercises mentioned and he's right. Very old (more than a decade) problem and it's time to sort it.
Thurs - was worried third day on after a hard sesh the night before would mean a bad session. Wrong! Back to triples and it's time to up the ante. All done apart from the 2x 7a's in the middle. This was on a new 7a as well and i surprised myself by how far i got on each attempt. Rushed for time, minimal resting and super positive session.
It turns out having motivated training (not climbing) partners, that you know pay attention whilst belaying, makes a huge difference.
Had something going on in the background all week. Feeling weak, crampy in the legs and shaky like low blood sugar. But diet has been good. Feel OK now though so full steam ahead this week before the holidays.
Post edited at 19:53
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Goals
Double Red, undercuts and GBH circuits
Orange and blue problem
7b+ in Margalef first week of Dec
Main Overhang
GBH
M: Boulder UK with the fox. Sore skin and didn't feel great but managed three new V6 which might be a record.
T: Rest, very sore skin
W: Day off so went to Malham more in hope than expectation. GBH was wet as was, surprisingly, Main Overhang. Top half dry but couldn't link from big side pull to top but found new beta for crux.
T: Rest, skin very sore
F: Planned rest in hope my skin would recover.
S: Stockport, first time for months. Thought I'd improved hugely when I flashed a 7a and 7a+ but then massively dogged two other 7as. Only 8 tie ins
S: Stockport, two days on for the first time in ages in readiness for holiday. Failed on the 7as from yesterday but flashed another 7a+
Goals
Double Red, undercuts and GBH circuits
Orange and blue problem
7b+ in Margalef first week of Dec
Main Overhang
GBH
M: Boulder UK with the fox. Sore skin and didn't feel great but managed three new V6 which might be a record.
T: Rest, very sore skin
W: Day off so went to Malham more in hope than expectation. GBH was wet as was, surprisingly, Main Overhang. Top half dry but couldn't link from big side pull to top but found new beta for crux.
T: Rest, skin very sore
F: Planned rest in hope my skin would recover.
S: Stockport, first time for months. Thought I'd improved hugely when I flashed a 7a and 7a+ but then massively dogged two other 7as. Only 8 tie ins
S: Stockport, two days on for the first time in ages in readiness for holiday. Failed on the 7as from yesterday but flashed another 7a+
In reply to 0.5viking:
Morning Campers,
Thanks for doing the stats Mr V. Didn't do any circuits/routes this week as I had a cold and didn't have much long distance 'breath' if you know what I mean. However, this did make pretty much every boulder problem completely anaerobic!
HMS; good work on that 7a, I need a rematch with that 'un, and some of them thar 7bs me thinks. Also, the new black circuit at TCA (replaces the yellows) is A-OK with plenty that you'll smash wi' nae bother!
Training Diary WC 02/11/15
Enforced Rest
Monday – Cold - rest.
Tuesday – Cold - rest.
Wednesday – Cold - rest.
Thursday – Cold - rest.
Friday – TCA as felt mostly better. Got on the purple comp problems from last weekend and ticked 13/19 including 2 6Cs (one onsight, other 2nd go) and a 6C+ second go. Also fell out the last move of another 6C+. The harder problems will need some work. Managed 2 of the finals problems too, in 3 or 4 goes each. Also, had 3 or 4 attempts at a hard new black (2nd hardest circuit) with The Ex-Engineer who was busy making impressively light work of this circuit!.
Saturday – Steady run with Tom - 12.7km in 1:02:31 at 4:51m/km pace. GAP 4:41m/km as 217m of ascent. Ran at the speed of chat throughout; great to be out after the rain and enjoying the fresh air again. Evening: 5 hours of DIY – laminate floor laying.
Sunday – DIY then TCA with Tom: Worked the green slopey comp final problem on the Mothership (6C+ ish). Felt the best that I’ve ever felt on slopers (woo hoo, progress) but couldn’t stick a high heel/hand match to hold me in so that I could latch the second last hold – summink to work on. Feeling suitably wearied, I then managed 17/19 of the 29 problems on the new black circuit (F6A-6C) in 45 mins. 3 hours of DIY/tip runs in the afternoon.
STGs
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ (made a start) – had a think on this, it’s power endurance that I need for The Loop as I run out of steam but don’t really get pumped.
Slopers, slopers, slopers (and other weaknesses) – oh yeah, and going well – more please.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting! Nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – nope – doing lots of physical work in the garden though so will start the core stuff – thanks for the ideas, Dan and Ally – will try a core workout this week.
Weight = 70.3kg
Morning Campers,
Thanks for doing the stats Mr V. Didn't do any circuits/routes this week as I had a cold and didn't have much long distance 'breath' if you know what I mean. However, this did make pretty much every boulder problem completely anaerobic!
HMS; good work on that 7a, I need a rematch with that 'un, and some of them thar 7bs me thinks. Also, the new black circuit at TCA (replaces the yellows) is A-OK with plenty that you'll smash wi' nae bother!
Training Diary WC 02/11/15
Enforced Rest
Monday – Cold - rest.
Tuesday – Cold - rest.
Wednesday – Cold - rest.
Thursday – Cold - rest.
Friday – TCA as felt mostly better. Got on the purple comp problems from last weekend and ticked 13/19 including 2 6Cs (one onsight, other 2nd go) and a 6C+ second go. Also fell out the last move of another 6C+. The harder problems will need some work. Managed 2 of the finals problems too, in 3 or 4 goes each. Also, had 3 or 4 attempts at a hard new black (2nd hardest circuit) with The Ex-Engineer who was busy making impressively light work of this circuit!.
Saturday – Steady run with Tom - 12.7km in 1:02:31 at 4:51m/km pace. GAP 4:41m/km as 217m of ascent. Ran at the speed of chat throughout; great to be out after the rain and enjoying the fresh air again. Evening: 5 hours of DIY – laminate floor laying.
Sunday – DIY then TCA with Tom: Worked the green slopey comp final problem on the Mothership (6C+ ish). Felt the best that I’ve ever felt on slopers (woo hoo, progress) but couldn’t stick a high heel/hand match to hold me in so that I could latch the second last hold – summink to work on. Feeling suitably wearied, I then managed 17/19 of the 29 problems on the new black circuit (F6A-6C) in 45 mins. 3 hours of DIY/tip runs in the afternoon.
STGs
Up the difficulty on the ol’ Aero Pow intervals to 6c/6c+ (made a start) – had a think on this, it’s power endurance that I need for The Loop as I run out of steam but don’t really get pumped.
Slopers, slopers, slopers (and other weaknesses) – oh yeah, and going well – more please.
Climb The Loop from the ‘horn’ (nope - wet).
Do more routes outside or inside to fix lack temporary lack of rope clipping ability (much better in Avon – really concentrated on smoothness, calmness and resting! Nope.
Keep up with the antagonistic stuff. At least one BM session a week – nope – doing lots of physical work in the garden though so will start the core stuff – thanks for the ideas, Dan and Ally – will try a core workout this week.
Weight = 70.3kg
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for doing the stats this week Viking,
No top roping happened this week as I'm short on partners in Derby and didn't fancy driving up to Wirksworth where the club I'm a member of usually climb on wednesdays, I did sort of go one better and lead an aid route, not sure my physio would approve! That said, it's been a reasonably productive week:
Sunday: 1500m of breast stroke
Monday: Loads of calf raises and general physio
Tuesday: Same again
Wednesday: 2000m of breast stroke
Thursday: 1 hour at the wall doing core stuff and physio
Friday: 1850m of breast stroke (got turfed out 6 lengths before hitting 2km rather frustratingly)
Saturday: Nothing much
Sunday: Went to Dovedale and led The Bat (A1), I feel like it beat me up somewhat, however my ankle feels alright despite driving there and back, doing the walk in and climbing the route so that is good.
Next week:
Monday: Physio
Tuesday: Physio
Wednesday: Go top roping at Wirksworth wall
Thursday: Swim/ core training
Friday: Physio (just round the office as I'll spend most of the evening sat on a train)
Saturday: Swim probably
Sunday: Probably just physio.
Short term Goal: Continue building strength and working on fitness as much as work etc allow before recommencing normal climbing in December.
Medium Term Goal: Redpoint 7a, headpoint E4
Long Term Goal: Onsight 7a, E4.
Thanks for doing the stats this week Viking,
No top roping happened this week as I'm short on partners in Derby and didn't fancy driving up to Wirksworth where the club I'm a member of usually climb on wednesdays, I did sort of go one better and lead an aid route, not sure my physio would approve! That said, it's been a reasonably productive week:
Sunday: 1500m of breast stroke
Monday: Loads of calf raises and general physio
Tuesday: Same again
Wednesday: 2000m of breast stroke
Thursday: 1 hour at the wall doing core stuff and physio
Friday: 1850m of breast stroke (got turfed out 6 lengths before hitting 2km rather frustratingly)
Saturday: Nothing much
Sunday: Went to Dovedale and led The Bat (A1), I feel like it beat me up somewhat, however my ankle feels alright despite driving there and back, doing the walk in and climbing the route so that is good.
Next week:
Monday: Physio
Tuesday: Physio
Wednesday: Go top roping at Wirksworth wall
Thursday: Swim/ core training
Friday: Physio (just round the office as I'll spend most of the evening sat on a train)
Saturday: Swim probably
Sunday: Probably just physio.
Short term Goal: Continue building strength and working on fitness as much as work etc allow before recommencing normal climbing in December.
Medium Term Goal: Redpoint 7a, headpoint E4
Long Term Goal: Onsight 7a, E4.
In reply to The Ex-Engineer: PS Tonight's bouldering session at Brookes was surprisingly good. It turned into almost 4 hours, I ticked the Orange plus another two outstanding problems. Not too busy but a good group of friendly climbers around working the same problems.
In reply to 0.5viking: missed the last couple of weeks, student life got a little busy!
Mon - good session, for the first time (I think) managed to do the whole 6a-7a circuit in one session. Mostly flashed but not all... that's the next goal!
Tue - rest
Wed - rest
Thurs - weights and weighted pull-ups. Can now manage 3 reps +15kg, its nice and easy to map progress and my one arm lock is feeling stronger, solid one armer shouldn't be far now
Fri - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - fun session at the wall with a good group. Managed a few of the new 7a-7c circuit, plus trying some silly made up problems and some dips at the end.
Pleased with how I've been managing to keep training with lots of work and social stuff but it's now quite ideal in terms of training!
Cheers, Jake
Mon - good session, for the first time (I think) managed to do the whole 6a-7a circuit in one session. Mostly flashed but not all... that's the next goal!
Tue - rest
Wed - rest
Thurs - weights and weighted pull-ups. Can now manage 3 reps +15kg, its nice and easy to map progress and my one arm lock is feeling stronger, solid one armer shouldn't be far now
Fri - rest
Sat - rest
Sun - fun session at the wall with a good group. Managed a few of the new 7a-7c circuit, plus trying some silly made up problems and some dips at the end.
Pleased with how I've been managing to keep training with lots of work and social stuff but it's now quite ideal in terms of training!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for the stats The V4 escaped me and has now been re-set so time for a new project. Font was a bit soggy but overall good.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Tues – 10 mins core (too easy now, need to up it) and 15 mins yoga
Wed – 9 routes at Westway, up to 7a but 6 of them 6a+ and below. Did almost OS a 7a on the slab. Feeling knackered and a bit lacklustre. Cold lurking and decided to leave some energy for Font.
Fri – Font. Got there in the afternoon but mostly wet ;-( found 3 dry & easy problems in 95.2. 15 mins yoga.
Sat – Font. Wet in the am but dried out (ish) in the pm. Went to Col de Chien, did 10 or so routes, mostly blue circuit, few yellow and 1 red.
Sun – Font. Bas Cuvier and a lovely sunny day, 20C in Nov! Few easy ones to warm up, flashed Nescaffe and then fell off the slopers on Marie Rose about 20 times. One day I’ll manage that problem!
Decent week and fun in Font, should hopefully get in 4 sessions this week as well.
Thanks for the stats The V4 escaped me and has now been re-set so time for a new project. Font was a bit soggy but overall good.
STG = another 7b by the end of Tenerife trip (going for c10 days over New Year)
MTG = at least 3x7b and 1x7b+ in 2016
BHAG = 8a by 40
Tues – 10 mins core (too easy now, need to up it) and 15 mins yoga
Wed – 9 routes at Westway, up to 7a but 6 of them 6a+ and below. Did almost OS a 7a on the slab. Feeling knackered and a bit lacklustre. Cold lurking and decided to leave some energy for Font.
Fri – Font. Got there in the afternoon but mostly wet ;-( found 3 dry & easy problems in 95.2. 15 mins yoga.
Sat – Font. Wet in the am but dried out (ish) in the pm. Went to Col de Chien, did 10 or so routes, mostly blue circuit, few yellow and 1 red.
Sun – Font. Bas Cuvier and a lovely sunny day, 20C in Nov! Few easy ones to warm up, flashed Nescaffe and then fell off the slopers on Marie Rose about 20 times. One day I’ll manage that problem!
Decent week and fun in Font, should hopefully get in 4 sessions this week as well.
In reply to biscuit:
He has to pay attention when he's too much of a Luddite to use a Gri Gri! Good set of routes at Stockport at the moment for people of our grade, going to get down there more often whilst they are up
> It turns out having motivated training (not climbing) partners, that you know pay attention whilst belaying, makes a huge difference.
He has to pay attention when he's too much of a Luddite to use a Gri Gri! Good set of routes at Stockport at the moment for people of our grade, going to get down there more often whilst they are up
1
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers Mr Viking!
Elbows got worse this week, I thought the right elbow was doing ok, but I guess the steroids just took a little longer to wear off on that arm, it took a massive nosedive on Monday with no discernible cause, both elbows are now as bad as they were pre-steroids.
Ok, that's a bit of pain, figuratively and literally, but all it means is that the steroids were a temporary fix, which did give me a chance to have an awesome holiday to Kaly, so I shouldn't complain too much. I'm in the same situation I was 3 months ago, I still need to find a fix, and steroids ain't it. Cross that one off the list.
However, I had a brief moment of clarity on Monday, I was trying to think of possible causes for the tennis elbow and possible reasons it didn't get any better, and it suddenly occurred to me - the one thing that I have been using throughout the time I have had tennis elbow is the Flexbar.
Bear with me here, I started using it around 3 months before the tennis elbow appeared, and continued using it while the problem got worse and worse. I used the Flexbar to ease the bicep ache that I got, but to do this I did the golfers and tennis elbow exercises. It seemed to ease the bicep ache quite well (although I did change a lot of other things in my routine at the same time) but I always thought it slightly mystifying that exercises for epicondylitis were helping my bicep. Perhaps it was helping, perhaps not, but perhaps what it was also doing was creating an imbalance in the elbow epicondyle muscles that had been comfortably in balance until then. (hence no problems in the preceding decade of climbing)
Its a slightly tenuous link, but is the most logical explanation that I have come up with so far, so i'll follow it through for a while at least and bin the Flexbar.
I've stopped using the Flexbar as of last Monday, and some tentative easy climbs this week have convinced me that things are so bad that I need to go cold turkey from the climbing for at least a couple of weeks to try and get a base level of recovery.
Here's hoping I get some improvement now, I'm not saying the Flexbar is a bad tool, I just think I was mis-using it.
It's a waiting game now, I have to indulge in my least favourite activity, resting. I've also asked for an ultrasound scan on the NHS just in case it reveals anything useful, it will probably take a couple of months but you can't have too much information I suppose.
I'm staying positive this time around, I've no impending trips so I can afford to take my time and let some healing happen (hopefully)
M: Indoor routes up to 6b, elbows fine when climbing straight arm on jugs, any odd holds or sideways movement would cause tweaks.
T: Exercise ball core, weighted press ups; this is about the only exercise that I will be able to continue doing, hopefully it will stop me getting too flabby
W: Nothing
T: Indoor routes up to 6a+, much the same as Monday but right elbow much more delicate.
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: Nothing
I drove up to Sheffield on Saturday for a mates 40th Birthday, he attempted to get some bouldering in at Stanage on Saturday afternoon but mostly missed the dry weather window. It was a good excuse for me to visit Stanage though, I've never been and it really is a very beautiful bit of the country, I can see why people like it so much. We walked along the top where it was so windy that water was flowing off the edge and then blowing back up over the top! The view was still pretty fab.
My posts will be a bit dull for a couple of weeks at least now, but I'll keep posting regardless, one day I'll have something positive to report!
> Dandan82: Annoying with the elbow issues, any progress this week? I improved a lot after stopping the weight on stick exercise, but I did it as a supplement to climbing which might be too much. Hope you£ll find out what works for you!
Cheers Mr Viking!
Elbows got worse this week, I thought the right elbow was doing ok, but I guess the steroids just took a little longer to wear off on that arm, it took a massive nosedive on Monday with no discernible cause, both elbows are now as bad as they were pre-steroids.
Ok, that's a bit of pain, figuratively and literally, but all it means is that the steroids were a temporary fix, which did give me a chance to have an awesome holiday to Kaly, so I shouldn't complain too much. I'm in the same situation I was 3 months ago, I still need to find a fix, and steroids ain't it. Cross that one off the list.
However, I had a brief moment of clarity on Monday, I was trying to think of possible causes for the tennis elbow and possible reasons it didn't get any better, and it suddenly occurred to me - the one thing that I have been using throughout the time I have had tennis elbow is the Flexbar.
Bear with me here, I started using it around 3 months before the tennis elbow appeared, and continued using it while the problem got worse and worse. I used the Flexbar to ease the bicep ache that I got, but to do this I did the golfers and tennis elbow exercises. It seemed to ease the bicep ache quite well (although I did change a lot of other things in my routine at the same time) but I always thought it slightly mystifying that exercises for epicondylitis were helping my bicep. Perhaps it was helping, perhaps not, but perhaps what it was also doing was creating an imbalance in the elbow epicondyle muscles that had been comfortably in balance until then. (hence no problems in the preceding decade of climbing)
Its a slightly tenuous link, but is the most logical explanation that I have come up with so far, so i'll follow it through for a while at least and bin the Flexbar.
I've stopped using the Flexbar as of last Monday, and some tentative easy climbs this week have convinced me that things are so bad that I need to go cold turkey from the climbing for at least a couple of weeks to try and get a base level of recovery.
Here's hoping I get some improvement now, I'm not saying the Flexbar is a bad tool, I just think I was mis-using it.
It's a waiting game now, I have to indulge in my least favourite activity, resting. I've also asked for an ultrasound scan on the NHS just in case it reveals anything useful, it will probably take a couple of months but you can't have too much information I suppose.
I'm staying positive this time around, I've no impending trips so I can afford to take my time and let some healing happen (hopefully)
M: Indoor routes up to 6b, elbows fine when climbing straight arm on jugs, any odd holds or sideways movement would cause tweaks.
T: Exercise ball core, weighted press ups; this is about the only exercise that I will be able to continue doing, hopefully it will stop me getting too flabby
W: Nothing
T: Indoor routes up to 6a+, much the same as Monday but right elbow much more delicate.
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: Nothing
I drove up to Sheffield on Saturday for a mates 40th Birthday, he attempted to get some bouldering in at Stanage on Saturday afternoon but mostly missed the dry weather window. It was a good excuse for me to visit Stanage though, I've never been and it really is a very beautiful bit of the country, I can see why people like it so much. We walked along the top where it was so windy that water was flowing off the edge and then blowing back up over the top! The view was still pretty fab.
My posts will be a bit dull for a couple of weeks at least now, but I'll keep posting regardless, one day I'll have something positive to report!
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks for the stats - regular fingerboard PBs are to be expected as I’m training finger strength hard at the moment.
Continued progress this week – day on/day off worked very well for keeping on top of injuries, but like Biscuit I’ve had some weird lingering lurgy; waking up with sore throat and not quite feeling on top form.
Hope to blast it this week and push on strong to Chulilla.
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium?
Do some progressive (grit?) headpointing.
Kilnsey/Malham – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Toadal Recall, 8a – tidy up loose ends.
Well Done finish, 8b (seems very unlikely now)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
2x mid-week training sessions
2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings
Sub 74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Maintain gradual weight loss/sub 75 kg – Fail
- Rehab – Fail
- Do some proper core training – Semi-tick
Last week:
M - London daytrip with work, but maintained the psyche and did FB2 (37,37,37, +12 x4repeaters) and 15 sets 1on/1off (+4kg) of FO campus.
T - Rest.
W - AWS. 2/3rd an-cap. 13moves, 2min rest. Blue 7b OS, and 4 goes RP’ing the brown 7b on the Mammut wall. Me thinks one is miss graded?!?
T - Nowt; Fireworks.
F - FB2 session. More PB’s on all holds – as expected. FO campus aero-power – up from last week, but an-cap up too. Not sure what’s going on. Press-ups and mild core. Felt pretty damn worked.
S - Nuthin’ but stretching. Gluttonous dinner.
S - Cave of Justice – retro-flash of LW & CL. Worked out the missing move on The Wire – just need to start doing some bigger links – think this could work well as a progressive an-cap training project? Came close to doing Hatch Life again – that would have been a great come back! 3x 20 kneebar sit-ups to finish.
75.8kg/6.7% BF Monday morning.
Thanks for the stats - regular fingerboard PBs are to be expected as I’m training finger strength hard at the moment.
Continued progress this week – day on/day off worked very well for keeping on top of injuries, but like Biscuit I’ve had some weird lingering lurgy; waking up with sore throat and not quite feeling on top form.
Hope to blast it this week and push on strong to Chulilla.
MTG (by end of 2015)
Do an 8a slab; The Medium?
Do some progressive (grit?) headpointing.
Kilnsey/Malham – go bolt a project before Gresham claims them all
Toadal Recall, 8a – tidy up loose ends.
Well Done finish, 8b (seems very unlikely now)
Chulilla - La Montana Magica, f8a+/b (End Nov)
2x mid-week training sessions
2x week core sessions – proper Randall beastings
Sub 74 kg & 6.4% BF before Chulilla trip
STG (next week)
- Maintain gradual weight loss/sub 75 kg – Fail
- Rehab – Fail
- Do some proper core training – Semi-tick
Last week:
M - London daytrip with work, but maintained the psyche and did FB2 (37,37,37, +12 x4repeaters) and 15 sets 1on/1off (+4kg) of FO campus.
T - Rest.
W - AWS. 2/3rd an-cap. 13moves, 2min rest. Blue 7b OS, and 4 goes RP’ing the brown 7b on the Mammut wall. Me thinks one is miss graded?!?
T - Nowt; Fireworks.
F - FB2 session. More PB’s on all holds – as expected. FO campus aero-power – up from last week, but an-cap up too. Not sure what’s going on. Press-ups and mild core. Felt pretty damn worked.
S - Nuthin’ but stretching. Gluttonous dinner.
S - Cave of Justice – retro-flash of LW & CL. Worked out the missing move on The Wire – just need to start doing some bigger links – think this could work well as a progressive an-cap training project? Came close to doing Hatch Life again – that would have been a great come back! 3x 20 kneebar sit-ups to finish.
75.8kg/6.7% BF Monday morning.
In reply to 0.5viking:
I had the best intentions of getting on an 8a but the weather wasn't conducive. I was only able to get out on Sunday and after seeing pictures on FB of Raven Tor totally soaking and the Cheedale Cornice flooded, I decided that it wasn't worth the drive. Training wise I'm happy with the week. I also managed climb the lone problem that had eluded me previously on the Loughborough V3-V4 circuit.
Mon Bouldering mileage and work with the gymnastic rings
Tue 4x4 followed by continuous climbing
Wed fingerboard low intensity hangs followed by core
Thur boulder short rests and shoulder stability work
Fri weighted pull ups
Sat rest
Sun indoor routes followed by core
For the indoor routes I went to Nottingham Climbing Centre. I'd never been there before despite it being quite local. I wasn't very impressed. There was very little in the 7's. I also found some of the 6c's surprisingly awkward.
Goal for next week - assuming the weather improves try an 8a. Similar volume of training.
I had the best intentions of getting on an 8a but the weather wasn't conducive. I was only able to get out on Sunday and after seeing pictures on FB of Raven Tor totally soaking and the Cheedale Cornice flooded, I decided that it wasn't worth the drive. Training wise I'm happy with the week. I also managed climb the lone problem that had eluded me previously on the Loughborough V3-V4 circuit.
Mon Bouldering mileage and work with the gymnastic rings
Tue 4x4 followed by continuous climbing
Wed fingerboard low intensity hangs followed by core
Thur boulder short rests and shoulder stability work
Fri weighted pull ups
Sat rest
Sun indoor routes followed by core
For the indoor routes I went to Nottingham Climbing Centre. I'd never been there before despite it being quite local. I wasn't very impressed. There was very little in the 7's. I also found some of the 6c's surprisingly awkward.
Goal for next week - assuming the weather improves try an 8a. Similar volume of training.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks - just wish I'd managed to fully capitalise on that early promise.
I didn't get out this week, not through planning but just because the weather was rubbish. I brewed some beer and went house hunting at the weekend instead.
Midweek training was patchy to non existent - driving home from London Monday night, busy Wednesday night and ill Thursday night which disrupted things. Didn't feel tip top or that mentally psyched/on it for the bulk of the week. And after lots of hanging on jugs and drinking beer I wasn't exactly feeling floatylight or zippy on the wall!
Going to try to reset things starting today and do better this week, not that that will be hard.
> AJM: congrats on the 7b onsights! Did you visit one of the UK projects this week or did you take it easy after the holiday?
Thanks - just wish I'd managed to fully capitalise on that early promise.
I didn't get out this week, not through planning but just because the weather was rubbish. I brewed some beer and went house hunting at the weekend instead.
Midweek training was patchy to non existent - driving home from London Monday night, busy Wednesday night and ill Thursday night which disrupted things. Didn't feel tip top or that mentally psyched/on it for the bulk of the week. And after lots of hanging on jugs and drinking beer I wasn't exactly feeling floatylight or zippy on the wall!
Going to try to reset things starting today and do better this week, not that that will be hard.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Thanks 0.5viking - it sounds like everyone has had a pretty rubbish week with illness or training this week, so at least I'm in excellent company with my not great week...
M-W pathetic (feel like I should milk my cycle commute, but it's only 3miles a day so can't really)
T - Development Coach Training
F - Lead Brookes. Oxford Uni students scared me away with their unsafeness after half a session.
S - Big Rock bouldering working WBL problems. Thanks to The Ex-Engineer for some great beta.
S - On parade for Remembrance activities then headed to Henley to watch my mum in a para-Dragon Boat race.
Thanks 0.5viking - it sounds like everyone has had a pretty rubbish week with illness or training this week, so at least I'm in excellent company with my not great week...
M-W pathetic (feel like I should milk my cycle commute, but it's only 3miles a day so can't really)
T - Development Coach Training
F - Lead Brookes. Oxford Uni students scared me away with their unsafeness after half a session.
S - Big Rock bouldering working WBL problems. Thanks to The Ex-Engineer for some great beta.
S - On parade for Remembrance activities then headed to Henley to watch my mum in a para-Dragon Boat race.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Ps. Does anyone have any Mallorca route recommendations? (going Boxing Day). Not done any sport climbing this year but looking to redpoint 7a and keen to have ideas up to and including that ... techy/bold rather than sustained/powerful will probably play to my strengths at the moment but need to start planning and training! Thanks! Tintin
Ps. Does anyone have any Mallorca route recommendations? (going Boxing Day). Not done any sport climbing this year but looking to redpoint 7a and keen to have ideas up to and including that ... techy/bold rather than sustained/powerful will probably play to my strengths at the moment but need to start planning and training! Thanks! Tintin
In reply to Just Tintin: You should be more than capable of 7a redpoint
As we discussed, a good starting point will be to get on all the 7s at Brookes and see which ones you feel you can make progress on. The best training for redpointing is likely to be redpointing even if it's indoors.
No doubt see you at the wall at some point (off there shortly for 4x4s before it gets too busy).
As we discussed, a good starting point will be to get on all the 7s at Brookes and see which ones you feel you can make progress on. The best training for redpointing is likely to be redpointing even if it's indoors.
No doubt see you at the wall at some point (off there shortly for 4x4s before it gets too busy).
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers. I'm certainly capable of doing Jaz, I just need to pull my finger out. Looks like it will have t wait for the new year, now, though.
A better week this week, but a bit haphazard as I know what's coming for the next few weeks...
Mon - Rest.
Tue - Tooling at Rope Race. 4x2 continuous laps on the 10 move circuit - so treating a bit like a 4x4, with 4 laps of 20 moves each.
Wed - Core
Thu - Max Strength. Ice axe dead hangs, Ice Axe reach, Ring dips.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Dry Tooling at Masson Lees Quarry. First visit, tried The Warm-Up (D6) and No Tools Please We're British (6c+). Did all the moves but didn't get either clean.
Sun - Routes at AW Sheffield.
STG (Till end of the year). Keep active while recovering from hand surgery, and find some good exercises to do. Will mostly be running, but should also be able to do some rehab work on my left shoulder which is a bit weaker on that side. Currently in a cast so won't be doing much this week.
> Planetmarshall: Good luck on the hand operation. Did you get out drytooling this weekend? With two M7 onsights, Jaz should definitely be doable!
Cheers. I'm certainly capable of doing Jaz, I just need to pull my finger out. Looks like it will have t wait for the new year, now, though.
A better week this week, but a bit haphazard as I know what's coming for the next few weeks...
Mon - Rest.
Tue - Tooling at Rope Race. 4x2 continuous laps on the 10 move circuit - so treating a bit like a 4x4, with 4 laps of 20 moves each.
Wed - Core
Thu - Max Strength. Ice axe dead hangs, Ice Axe reach, Ring dips.
Fri - Rest
Sat - Dry Tooling at Masson Lees Quarry. First visit, tried The Warm-Up (D6) and No Tools Please We're British (6c+). Did all the moves but didn't get either clean.
Sun - Routes at AW Sheffield.
STG (Till end of the year). Keep active while recovering from hand surgery, and find some good exercises to do. Will mostly be running, but should also be able to do some rehab work on my left shoulder which is a bit weaker on that side. Currently in a cast so won't be doing much this week.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers Viking!
Hamstring mostly ok this week:
M: am - 10M steady in 68:42, pm - 4/5M steady in 30:38
Tu: Lunchtime - 4M easy in 28:18, frustrated that I couldn't fit a session in. pm - Road session: 20min tempo, 3min jog then 8 x 2.5min with 75secs recovery. A bit of a monster! Managed 5:30's for the tempo and went hard on the reps - 13/14M in total!
W: pm - 10M steady in 66:16, still sore from the session but going ok
Th: am - 8M steady in 57:31
F: am - 2/3M easy + strides
Sa: League XC race @ Milton Keynes. This was very muddy and a good standard as it was doubling as the UKA cross challenge series race as well so proper quality up front. Had a solid run and was pleased although hamstring started to hurt a little in the last mile. Came 34th in 33:09 for the 9.51K - around 3mins behind the winner, those guys were flying! 12M total
Su: wet + windy and tired from race ~16M in 1:50:55
80M total for the week and a solid race so pleased - just need hamstring to hold up now.
Cheers Viking!
Hamstring mostly ok this week:
M: am - 10M steady in 68:42, pm - 4/5M steady in 30:38
Tu: Lunchtime - 4M easy in 28:18, frustrated that I couldn't fit a session in. pm - Road session: 20min tempo, 3min jog then 8 x 2.5min with 75secs recovery. A bit of a monster! Managed 5:30's for the tempo and went hard on the reps - 13/14M in total!
W: pm - 10M steady in 66:16, still sore from the session but going ok
Th: am - 8M steady in 57:31
F: am - 2/3M easy + strides
Sa: League XC race @ Milton Keynes. This was very muddy and a good standard as it was doubling as the UKA cross challenge series race as well so proper quality up front. Had a solid run and was pleased although hamstring started to hurt a little in the last mile. Came 34th in 33:09 for the 9.51K - around 3mins behind the winner, those guys were flying! 12M total
Su: wet + windy and tired from race ~16M in 1:50:55
80M total for the week and a solid race so pleased - just need hamstring to hold up now.
In reply to 0.5viking: Hi, thanks Mr Viking, bit late again. Juggling quite a lot at the minute but managing to tick over, cant remember exact sequence of things-maybe doing enough to improve slowly rather than just maintain.
Managed two wall sessions, both bouldering including only my second visit to bloc. New circuit at TCA in theory F6A+-F6c, probably soft, flashed loads and got a few quite quickly.
One run-hilly 35 mins, felt great.
One fingerboard session for lanky weak climbers, gave myself time to rest between effort and enjoyed,
Need to address time, finding it hard claw back extra hours but that will change soon, also need a training partner, dont know how that will get sorted.
beginning to think about a week away late winter, could be an extended weekend, not sure where, love Siurana but not sure what weather would be like in march, anyone got any ideas?
Rich
Managed two wall sessions, both bouldering including only my second visit to bloc. New circuit at TCA in theory F6A+-F6c, probably soft, flashed loads and got a few quite quickly.
One run-hilly 35 mins, felt great.
One fingerboard session for lanky weak climbers, gave myself time to rest between effort and enjoyed,
Need to address time, finding it hard claw back extra hours but that will change soon, also need a training partner, dont know how that will get sorted.
beginning to think about a week away late winter, could be an extended weekend, not sure where, love Siurana but not sure what weather would be like in march, anyone got any ideas?
Rich
In reply to Solsbury:
I wouldn't like to predict siurana weather. otll probably be fine but it is very variable.
On our road trip we stopped by in January (cold nights but good climbing temps), March (getting too hot, people were bailing), and late April (quite cold and windy so OK climbing conditions still, much against my expectations). I've friends who have been in March before and had snow.
I wouldn't like to predict siurana weather. otll probably be fine but it is very variable.
On our road trip we stopped by in January (cold nights but good climbing temps), March (getting too hot, people were bailing), and late April (quite cold and windy so OK climbing conditions still, much against my expectations). I've friends who have been in March before and had snow.
In reply to Solsbury:
Hum. I tried the black circuit today and found it very far from soft. 5 were roped off & another 3 far too brutally steep to risk with a tweaky shoulder. Of the remaining ~20 I managed to get a grand total of 7. Far too many big moves, esp to slopers. As ever, TCAs views on what was L and what was H were pretty farcical too!
Hum. I tried the black circuit today and found it very far from soft. 5 were roped off & another 3 far too brutally steep to risk with a tweaky shoulder. Of the remaining ~20 I managed to get a grand total of 7. Far too many big moves, esp to slopers. As ever, TCAs views on what was L and what was H were pretty farcical too!
In reply to hms:
Hi Helen, I think they have been round and tweaked some, some have gone from strolls to....whatever the opposite of strolling is. Still managed to tick a couple yesterday and progress on a few others. Going to focus on bouldering and a bit of brawn to xmas so plenty to go at.
Hi Helen, I think they have been round and tweaked some, some have gone from strolls to....whatever the opposite of strolling is. Still managed to tick a couple yesterday and progress on a few others. Going to focus on bouldering and a bit of brawn to xmas so plenty to go at.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, not sure what reply I expected, half expected someone to say its often wet in March, quite fancy some where different but have a lot of routes to tick in siurana.
Cheers Andy, not sure what reply I expected, half expected someone to say its often wet in March, quite fancy some where different but have a lot of routes to tick in siurana.
In reply to Solsbury:
There aren't too many days where there will be no sensible crag choice, either at siurana or one of the other nearby venues!
There aren't too many days where there will be no sensible crag choice, either at siurana or one of the other nearby venues!
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