UKC

Planing on going to Elbruce this summer and wondering what boots to get, have owned a pair of northface b2 gtx for about 5 years and wondering if getting one of the beefed up more insulated versions of these would be a good idea or are other brands better. Don't mind spending the money on them if they were then good for future trips of similar heights or a bit higher, say 5000 to 7000 if thats posable? Also, less inportantly for now, would such boots be any good for ice climbing if I was to get into it in the future or would I need a diference boot all together?
Tim

In reply to timmyhobby:

Hi Tim,

I take it you mean Elbrus rather than Elbruce???

At that height B2 boots will be far to light weight & cold, my friend did Mont Blanc in B2's and his feet were pretty cold then and I doubt he made that mistake again. Most places recommend double boots for Elbrus such as the La Sportiva Spantik's or the Scarpa Phantom 6000 for peaks of that size. You don't want you toes falling off do you

Cheers

In reply to timmyhobby:

Get the right boots and you'll say to your toes every morning, nice to see you to see you nice.....

In reply to sbc_10:

In reply to David Staples:

I would say double boots for Elbrus in summer is overkill. I've twice been to the Caucasus in the summer and it's not that cold. No colder than the Alps in Spring/Autumn. A warm single boot, eg a super gaiter boot is going to be fine unless you particularly suffer with cod extremities. Worth getting a double boot though if serious about 7000m stuff.

In reply to timmyhobby:

Depends on your circulation. I used some Zamberlain Mountain lites (stiff leather walking boots) and pretty cheap socks on Elbrus. No problem. Someone else in the party used similar and lost quite a bit of toe flesh to frostbite. I wouldn't say plastics were over the top but you have to remember that they are a lot of weight to put on your feet and swing around at 5000m+.

In reply to David Staples:


Nah - he means El Bruce, the mountain next to El Cid on the Costa Blanca!


Chris

In reply to Mr. Lee:

In that case Tim see what Lee has to say, I am sure he is more qualified as I have never been to the Caucasus or above 5000 meters.

In reply to timmyhobby:
As they're not only for Elbrus the mentioned Scarpa Phantom 6000 or La Sportiva Spantiks are good. Both have new versions out now or within the next weeks. Phantoms should be a bit overkill for Ice Climbing, but still usable if you don't fancy having half a dozen pairs at home each for a different mountain

Remember... it's not only height. Denali is not 7000m, but I wouldn't even think about doing it without double boots. Vinson is below 5000m but the same applies. So above boot would generally be suitable for around 6000m depending on which mountain you're attacking, a bit warm for Scottish Winter or Alps maybe, but toes don't fall off when they're sweating, right

Edit: Also.... weather can be quite different on summit day. You may be lucky an have an unusually warm period, but it can be the other way around as well. So if someone climbed Elbrus in Meindl Borneos doesn't mean you can do it as well

In reply to timmyhobby:

Summit Elbrus 4 times, once in Scarpa Manta's and toes were bloody cold! Last 3 times in Sportiva Nepal Extremes now Evo's and toes were champion both in great and difficult conditions! If your looking at doing slightly higher peaks later then getting a 6000m boot would be worth it. Anything more is overkill and quite frankly will impair your summit day, given the extra weight on your feet and awkward gait some need. By the way on Elbrus, even on the South side its a further walk than it looks!

Have a good trip, might see you there if I'm back again!

In reply to timmyhobby:

Out of curiosity, which company are you going with or is it an independent trip?

I've always hankered after Elbrus but have failed to get it planned up to now. Would be useful to know who you chose?

In reply to RockingKatja:

Hi. I have sent you a PM. Check if its gone to spam

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Sounds a bit like something from Manuel de Falla

In reply to timmyhobby:

I did it in 2006 with B0 walking boots. it was fine

In reply to Mr. Lee:


Cod extremities sounds serious, is it common at altitude?

In reply to peterjb:

Something fishy going on there.... Watch out for the ElBruce Hookers. Quite at home in Russia, I believe.

To the OP: Elbrus can have miserable cold weather at any time; I'd definitely use an insulated boot with decent socks (and enough room for swollen appendages). If you'd asked 20 years ago the choice would have been simple (Asolo 101s or Koflachs) - it's the tyranny of choice these days that gets you. I would go for an insulated single boot and accept that it won't get much use in the UK outside of bad scottish winter conditions and may be too warm for summer (continental) alpinism - but probably just the ticket for non-technical peaks in the 20,000ft range.

b

In reply to timmyhobby:

I did it last year in La Sportiva Spantik's. The weather wasn't that bad but those boots were great.

I'm going to get some 6000m boots, probably the la sportivas don't recon it is worth the risk of not. The company I have been looking at are elbrus tours, There quite cheep and someone suggested them

In reply to timmyhobby:

I wouldn't worry too much as its not that difficult and didn't see anyone fail when there. Weather is a pain getting stuck in the huts. Leaving so early in the day on summit day is purely so they can get you off the mountain on the same day. Maybe to miss the skiers on the way up also.
Decent Scottish plastic winter boots would be suffice.