UKC

Just wondering if somebody could recommend a soft-touch at 8a+, preferably at Malham, but interested in Kilnsey too?

I'm about 5'6", so easier for the short be be ideal.

Was thinking of GBH at Malham. Obviously if/when the weather improves.

Thanks.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

If I could climb 8a+ I'd try the Groove at Malham, or Urgent Action at Kilnsey. Both of these look absolutely stunning routes. I don't think either are soft touch but why does that matter anyway? Often so called 'soft touch' routes turn out to be the next grade down anyway, in which case just choose the best looking 8a, Zoolook perhaps. If you want to break into the next grade its surely far better to do a route that's solid for its grade not going to be downgraded in the next guide. The Groove is meant to be two 7c+ on top of each other separated by a shake out, but I'm sure someone who's done it can give better details.

You might also consider Supercool at Gordale, another mega classic but probably harder to find belayers.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

You might be better finding an 8a+ that inspires you over one that is a soft touch. You'll be much more motivated to climb and train for it.

In reply to stp:

It will take me less time. And it has to be 8a+. Got somebody to burn off.

EDIT: If it gets downgraded in future, that doesn't matter now.

In reply to Martin McKenna - Rockfax:


Motivation isn't a problem.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Soft touches are a very personal thing. The steep routes at Kilnsey suited my stlye so routes like Mandala, Grooved arête and Full Tilt felt soft at 8a+ for me at the time.
However the "slabby" walls around Zoolook would repel me.
If all you want is the number work to your strengths. Personally I would go for what inspires you, not from a book or reputation but what you can see above you.

In reply to kristian:

Thanks. Want something that is likely to stay dry. I think Mandela seeps a lot, although it seemed to be popular last year. Will have a look at the other two.


I am.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

From a combination of experience and reputation I'd have thought that obvious first 8a+s in Yorkshire, depending upon your style preferences, would include
- Supercool
- GBH
- Overnite
- Bullet
- Mandela
- Urgent

In reply to abarro81:

Strong list there Barrows, funnily enough they're all on my list for this year (apart from Bullet, which wasn't even on my radar).

In reply to abarro81:
Thanks.


Definitely interested. Long routes aren't my forte though. I'm probably best over about 20m.


Might be my project of choice, Malham should be in condition before Kilnsey & Goredale.


Sounds hard, 12m isn't it. :S


Not looked at this, will check it out.


Not sure, might be wet a lot.


Keen on this, got it on my 2016 ticklist already. Belayed a Spanish chap on it (if you managed to meet Miguel, he was a Kilnsey regular last year). It looks really good.

EDIT: Bullet sounds good, can tick my first 7c+ on the way. Although waiting for Kilnsey to dry out could be tortuous.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS: If you like crimpy wall climbing then Conehead or Climb of the Century on the upper tier are worth a look. Both dry quickly and stay in condition more than most of the catwalk routes.

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:

Okay, thanks Andy, not obvious routes to look at, I'll check them out.

In reply to andy farnell:

But presumably become unclimbable once it warms up??

more of a question rather than a statement and simply based upon my knowledge of Malham and having climbed on the upper tier a few times if its warm and sunny it gets everything going and so gets hot - not nice on those crimps and really bright thanks to the white limestone.

Might be worth taking into account if you think it will take you a while 1poundSocks!

In reply to Duncan Campbell:


Physically/technically maybe not (only 8a I tried before was Baboo-Baboo), but keen to improve my redpointing. Might aswell for forget the sequence on something really hard, it gets annoying falling off a 7b+ repeatedly, when I can do the moves quite easily!

In reply to Duncan Campbell:




The upper tier routes do generally get more sun than the lower tier, but both areas are hard work in the full sun. As with any route at Malham, cool overcast and not too windy make for the best conditions.

Andy F

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

what's the point?

So you can say I've climbed 8a+?

Again what's the point?

In reply to krikoman:


I already explained the point, so either:

1. You didn't read the thread
2. You're trying to tell me that the reason you climb is more worthy than the reason I climb

If "1", read the thread.
If "2", go read another thread.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

1poundsocks...

I was told bat route could be soft 8c+. Usually in condition, plenty of folk at the crag to give you beta.

I reckon you can do it, I'll give you a catch. You might get some free shoes or t shirts if you flash it too

In reply to david morse:


Cheers Dave. I'll probably need to climb 8c+ at this rate. Managed 7a at Leeds Wall, so that won't be too far off 8c+ on rock.

In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I have faith in you. Aim high: 8c+ for sure

If you get sponsored will you sign my northern limestone guide please? Lime season is coming

In reply to david morse:


Of course.


Checked the weather for this weekend (grim), so I'm very keen!!!

Will be at The Depot on Saturday I reckon, if you're around?