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Telli practice

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 RM199 26 Oct 2016
Had a go a telli yesterday and got destroyed by the mantle. Any tips for good boulder problems to practice on before I have another go?

Funnily enough I had a go at Calvary as well and the same time and that mantle was hard, but do able.

Thanks in advance!

Telli (E3 6a)
1
 petegunn 27 Oct 2016
 ChrisBrooke 27 Oct 2016
In reply to RM199:

Getting into hip-opening stretches would probably be just as useful, or at least something to include as well as mantle practice. Being able to really get your weight (bum) in and over the foot will be really helpful in working harder and harder mantles. If you can't turn out your hips you're forced to keep your centre of gravity away from the rock, making it more likely you'll peel backwards, or just generally fail.

That's my two cents.
 Dave Garnett 27 Oct 2016
In reply to petegunn:

> Have you done the Stretch and mantel problem at the roaches?

If you can get as far as latching the mantel pressing it isn't too bad.

This one's a bit trickier:
Traveller in Time (E4 6a)#photos

And this one's very tricky indeed:
Stormbringer (E3 6a)#photos



 Offwidth 28 Oct 2016
In reply to ChrisBrooke:

Beta warning...

I'm as stiff as a post and managed it. In any case, anything about flexibility is after the mantel move (where I used undercuts to pull over my right foot). The crux for some is you need to smear on pebbles if you can't reach the lip (I only just reached at 5'10" and + 3" ape index).
 deacondeacon 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Offwidth:

I'm with you on this. Pull on the undercut top of the break, rather than pressing out the mantle.
It's a lovely route.
 Graeme Hammond 28 Oct 2016
In reply to RM199:

my top beta is......

don't do a mantle as such, get the good sideways finger lock in the centre of the slab, build the right foot up fairly high then place your left foot in the break, put both hands up in a superman position, lean right in and then stand up (dabbing right foot helps), seemed 5b+/c that way, the pulling on the pebbles to gain the gear break are and the moves off the ledge to gain the top seemed harder for me.

to practice such a move you could probably simulate a similar move on the pebble boulder near the route by trying to standing up on the ramp with no hand holds just leaning in the same way and stepping up.
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

> my top beta is......

> don't do a mantle as such, get the good sideways finger lock in the centre of the slab, build the right foot up fairly high then place your left foot in the break, put both hands up in a superman position, lean right in and then stand up (dabbing right foot helps), seemed 5b+/c that way, the pulling on the pebbles to gain the gear break are and the moves off the ledge to gain the top seemed harder for me.

> to practice such a move you could probably simulate a similar move on the pebble boulder near the route by trying to standing up on the ramp with no hand holds just leaning in the same way and stepping up.

What you describe sounds like a 'mantel' to me.
1
 Graeme Hammond 28 Oct 2016
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

> What you describe sounds like a 'mantel' to me.

or a rock over? personally I'd describe a mantle as having a pushing down movement with one of both hands.
 ChrisBrooke 28 Oct 2016
In reply to Offwidth:
> Beta warning...

> I'm as stiff as a post and managed it. In any case, anything about flexibility is after the mantel move (where I used undercuts to pull over my right foot). The crux for some is you need to smear on pebbles if you can't reach the lip (I only just reached at 5'10" and + 3" ape index).

I did it a few years back so can't remember the move to be honest, only that I didn't find it difficult: I don't often find mantels (or rock-overs) that difficult, largely due to my flexible hips, hence my advice.
Post edited at 11:05

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