This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Getting close to buying a bike and wondering if you buy an expensive bike and need something changing is it OK for the bike shop to shrug and charge extra for the item leaving you with the original bit?
In reply to Indy:
Depends. What bit? Have you shopped there before?
Depends. What bit? Have you shopped there before?
2
In reply to Indy:
A lot of shops get their bikes as standard kits from the manufacturer. So yes, I think its normal, unless you are specifically buying a frame and the bits seperately. From the shop's perspective, what are they going to do with parts that are already out their packet and been fitted ?
A lot of shops get their bikes as standard kits from the manufacturer. So yes, I think its normal, unless you are specifically buying a frame and the bits seperately. From the shop's perspective, what are they going to do with parts that are already out their packet and been fitted ?
5
In reply to Indy:
Pretty normal practice.
Though if you are spending loads (and/or returning customer) and the part is a minor swap, you would have thought the shop would have done if foc or 'at cost'.
Pretty normal practice.
Though if you are spending loads (and/or returning customer) and the part is a minor swap, you would have thought the shop would have done if foc or 'at cost'.
Post edited at 18:37
In reply to Indy:
When i was buying a bike this summer, not a returning customer or anything, they swamped out bars and stem fow nowt but it was a similar cost part.
When i was buying a bike this summer, not a returning customer or anything, they swamped out bars and stem fow nowt but it was a similar cost part.
1
In reply to ChrisJD:
Thanks all... its a Spec Tarmac Pro which comes as a compact and I want to swap it to a standard. 1 shop outright no and full rrp on new parts and 50% off fitting the other was 10% off the parts and free fitting.
> Pretty normal practice.
> Though if you are spending loads (and/or returning customer) and the part is a minor swap, you would have thought the shop would have done if foc or 'at cost'.
Thanks all... its a Spec Tarmac Pro which comes as a compact and I want to swap it to a standard. 1 shop outright no and full rrp on new parts and 50% off fitting the other was 10% off the parts and free fitting.
1
In reply to ChrisJD:
But its over £300 worth of parts that would be cheaper to buy from Evans on a Wiggle price match and pay for fitting than going through an LBS.
> The 'better'LBS I've used usually fit free if you buy stuff from them.
But its over £300 worth of parts that would be cheaper to buy from Evans on a Wiggle price match and pay for fitting than going through an LBS.
In reply to Indy:
What are the shop supposed to do with the bit they have taken off?
They can't sell it new.
I would expect them to offer the new part at cost or close to with free fitting though.
What are the shop supposed to do with the bit they have taken off?
They can't sell it new.
I would expect them to offer the new part at cost or close to with free fitting though.
1
In reply to Dark-Cloud:
If I lived in the Alps then fair enough but I can easily spin out a compact. So I'm happy to grind out the odd hill here and there rather than spin out daily.
> What's wrong with the compact option, you racing on it ?
If I lived in the Alps then fair enough but I can easily spin out a compact. So I'm happy to grind out the odd hill here and there rather than spin out daily.
In reply to Dax H:
I would have thought that a shop would have done the swap on the basis of a making a very good profit on the bike. It would be much easier for them to get rid of the unused parts than me.
I would have thought that a shop would have done the swap on the basis of a making a very good profit on the bike. It would be much easier for them to get rid of the unused parts than me.
Post edited at 20:05
In reply to Indy:
Yeah been riding for 30 years now, grinding it out, been there done that, compact is fine.
What sort of chainset is it that's £300 dura ace or something ? Just buy one yourself from Merlin or CRC and keep the compact.
Yeah been riding for 30 years now, grinding it out, been there done that, compact is fine.
What sort of chainset is it that's £300 dura ace or something ? Just buy one yourself from Merlin or CRC and keep the compact.
2
In reply to Dax H:
Loads of places sell OEM marked/lightly used kit which I guess must come from such sources.
> What are the shop supposed to do with the bit they have taken off?
> They can't sell it new.
Loads of places sell OEM marked/lightly used kit which I guess must come from such sources.
1
In reply to gethin_allen:
Erm no, that's not how it works really, OEM stuff comes from the massive manufacturers overbuying, not you local bike shop.
Erm no, that's not how it works really, OEM stuff comes from the massive manufacturers overbuying, not you local bike shop.
Post edited at 20:12
1
In reply to Indy:
It may be better to keep the compact chain-set and swap the cassette to say 11-23, nice close ratio and you will still have the option to swap back should you want to do a trip to the alps (or Lake District even)
It may be better to keep the compact chain-set and swap the cassette to say 11-23, nice close ratio and you will still have the option to swap back should you want to do a trip to the alps (or Lake District even)
1
In reply to Indy:
£139 on Merlin for the chainset, all you need to change that is a 5mm allen key and 2 minutes.
£139 on Merlin for the chainset, all you need to change that is a 5mm allen key and 2 minutes.
4
In reply to Dark-Cloud:
This may be so but why would selling a new OEM chainset from one source be different to another from a different source? I'm sure you'd get a substantial % of the price for an item sold as marked. Enough to offset making a reasonable offer to custom who's spending £5k on a bike in order to secure the bike sale.
> Erm no, that's not how it works really, OEM stuff comes from the massive manufacturers overbuying, not you local bike shop.
This may be so but why would selling a new OEM chainset from one source be different to another from a different source? I'm sure you'd get a substantial % of the price for an item sold as marked. Enough to offset making a reasonable offer to custom who's spending £5k on a bike in order to secure the bike sale.
In reply to gethin_allen:
Thats my thinking. Looking at the bigger picture surely its in a bike shops interests to do a deal that suits both parties but the feeling I'm getting is that the shop thinks its doing me a favor by allowing me to buy.
Just want to know what people think is a fair compromise.
> Enough to offset making a reasonable offer to customer who's spending £5k on a bike in order to secure the bike sale.
Thats my thinking. Looking at the bigger picture surely its in a bike shops interests to do a deal that suits both parties but the feeling I'm getting is that the shop thinks its doing me a favor by allowing me to buy.
Just want to know what people think is a fair compromise.
In reply to Indy: just the chainset? Honestly, things like bars stem, saddle i would expect a straight swap or a very, very good deal , but the chainset would be a step too far.
1
In reply to Indy:
profit on bikes is less than you probably think, a high end machine should have quite a bit of workshop time assembling it from the box, then there's the cost to the shop of your first tune up (normally free at a good bike shop)
most bike shops actually make their money from clothes and accessories. of course they make money form the bike but it's probably not the high profit item in your purchase.
> I would have thought that a shop would have done the swap on the basis of a making a very good profit on the bike. It would be much easier for them to get rid of the unused parts than me.
profit on bikes is less than you probably think, a high end machine should have quite a bit of workshop time assembling it from the box, then there's the cost to the shop of your first tune up (normally free at a good bike shop)
most bike shops actually make their money from clothes and accessories. of course they make money form the bike but it's probably not the high profit item in your purchase.
Post edited at 09:29
3
In reply to Indy:
Tricky - I think it depends on the bike shop. My new bike was was built up - frame from the LBS, wheels built by LBS, groupset and pedals from Wiggle, saddle from #neverEvans (but that's a long story), and all the rest from the LBS. Consequently, minor bits have been swapped in and out without question - braze-on clamp, skewers etc. Once it starts to get to significant components, I think it gets more difficult - You could buy the new bits yourself and sell the original ones on ebay. Or try the compact and see how you get on with it. I have a carbon aero bike and the other one above is a Jaegher Ascender - they both fly, but the Jaegher is nicer up hills because of the 36 rather than 39 small ring. I can't tell the difference betwwen the 52 v 53 on the big ring. How small is the big ring on the compact? You may just be able to fit a bigger ring and keep the small one for hillier times.
Tricky - I think it depends on the bike shop. My new bike was was built up - frame from the LBS, wheels built by LBS, groupset and pedals from Wiggle, saddle from #neverEvans (but that's a long story), and all the rest from the LBS. Consequently, minor bits have been swapped in and out without question - braze-on clamp, skewers etc. Once it starts to get to significant components, I think it gets more difficult - You could buy the new bits yourself and sell the original ones on ebay. Or try the compact and see how you get on with it. I have a carbon aero bike and the other one above is a Jaegher Ascender - they both fly, but the Jaegher is nicer up hills because of the 36 rather than 39 small ring. I can't tell the difference betwwen the 52 v 53 on the big ring. How small is the big ring on the compact? You may just be able to fit a bigger ring and keep the small one for hillier times.
In reply to Indy:
Seems to come with Spec own brand chainset, which probably explains the shop's reluctance to swap it - might not be a problem if it had been a Shimano one.
Says it's a mid-compact 36/52, not a full compact 34/50 - do you really need to swap it to 39/53?
If you're desperate for that extra tooth, can you not just change the chainrings?
> Thanks all... its a Spec Tarmac Pro which comes as a compact and I want to swap it to a standard. 1 shop outright no and full rrp on new parts and 50% off fitting the other was 10% off the parts and free fitting.
Seems to come with Spec own brand chainset, which probably explains the shop's reluctance to swap it - might not be a problem if it had been a Shimano one.
Says it's a mid-compact 36/52, not a full compact 34/50 - do you really need to swap it to 39/53?
If you're desperate for that extra tooth, can you not just change the chainrings?
In reply to Dax H:
They can and will if it hasn't been used. Reuse as a part for other customers if not sell it directly.
My LBS has happily swapped bits in and out when I've bought a bike new. OK I was spending a reasonable amount of money and we aren't talking Halfords.
> What are the shop supposed to do with the bit they have taken off?
> They can't sell it new.
They can and will if it hasn't been used. Reuse as a part for other customers if not sell it directly.
My LBS has happily swapped bits in and out when I've bought a bike new. OK I was spending a reasonable amount of money and we aren't talking Halfords.
Post edited at 11:01
1
In reply to Indy:
If it's a semi compact I would keep it and just drop down your cassette sizing to an 11-23 or 11-25. your knees will thank you for the latter.
As someone who had a reputation of toiling around the Alps on a full fat 42/53 and 11-25 even i gave up my Francesco Moser impressions and upped my cadence and softened by gearing. I race on a compact, and just switch out my cassette / back wheel to a 28 if I'm on a hilly circuit.
I'd just keep it, or swap out the inner ring. Most semi and full chainsets use the same BCD configuration.
As others have side, if it's own brand kit, it's hard to re-sell, so the shop loses quite a bit of money.
If it's a semi compact I would keep it and just drop down your cassette sizing to an 11-23 or 11-25. your knees will thank you for the latter.
As someone who had a reputation of toiling around the Alps on a full fat 42/53 and 11-25 even i gave up my Francesco Moser impressions and upped my cadence and softened by gearing. I race on a compact, and just switch out my cassette / back wheel to a 28 if I'm on a hilly circuit.
I'd just keep it, or swap out the inner ring. Most semi and full chainsets use the same BCD configuration.
As others have side, if it's own brand kit, it's hard to re-sell, so the shop loses quite a bit of money.
Post edited at 11:09
1
In reply to LastBoyScout:
I hadn't seen that, my quick Google showed it to be dura ace and I thought it would be easy to shift. What type of bb do the shimano cranks use? Is it anything proprietary? I could see this causing issues if it is.
> Seems to come with Spec own brand chainset, which probably explains the shop's reluctance to swap it - might not be a problem if it had been a Shimano one.
I hadn't seen that, my quick Google showed it to be dura ace and I thought it would be easy to shift. What type of bb do the shimano cranks use? Is it anything proprietary? I could see this causing issues if it is.
In reply to Indy:
If it was 'economically sensible' for them to, you can probably assume they would have done it more cheaply for you.
> Thanks all... its a Spec Tarmac Pro which comes as a compact and I want to swap it to a standard. 1 shop outright no and full rrp on new parts and 50% off fitting the other was 10% off the parts and free fitting.
If it was 'economically sensible' for them to, you can probably assume they would have done it more cheaply for you.
In reply to nniff:
Sorry, that was supposed to say "Specialized" not shimano.
> Bog standard - nothing out of the ordinary
Sorry, that was supposed to say "Specialized" not shimano.
In reply to Timmd:
Not to sound sarkey etc.
> If it was 'economically sensible' for them to, you can probably assume they would have done it more cheaply for you.
Not to sound sarkey etc.
In reply to gethin_allen:
Hmm - the Specialized website for a Tarmac pro says Enduro BB30. It also says the rings are 52/36 with an 11-28 cassette, which is what my Jaegher has got. The big ring and 28 is about equivalent to the small ring and the middle of the cassette. I can't tell the difference between 53/11 and 52/11 and only spin out when I'm going so fast downhill that my efforts are no longer really contributing anything other than chucking ugly shapes into the air flow.
https://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/road/tarmac-pro-disc-ultegra-di2/11...
I'd be inclined to stick with what they've provided. Or build up a hand-made and custom-painted Jaegher to your spec with full Chris King and Dura-ace for the same money.
http://www.jaegher.com/shop/
> Sorry, that was supposed to say "Specialized" not shimano.
Hmm - the Specialized website for a Tarmac pro says Enduro BB30. It also says the rings are 52/36 with an 11-28 cassette, which is what my Jaegher has got. The big ring and 28 is about equivalent to the small ring and the middle of the cassette. I can't tell the difference between 53/11 and 52/11 and only spin out when I'm going so fast downhill that my efforts are no longer really contributing anything other than chucking ugly shapes into the air flow.
https://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/bikes/road/tarmac-pro-disc-ultegra-di2/11...
I'd be inclined to stick with what they've provided. Or build up a hand-made and custom-painted Jaegher to your spec with full Chris King and Dura-ace for the same money.
http://www.jaegher.com/shop/
In reply to Indy:
Unless you've either haggled hard already and they've nothing to give or it's a bike in such demand they know they'll shift it anyway I'd say they were being a bit tight with those offers and it'd leave me less inclined to use them long term. That said if it were me I'd probably keep those ratios and work on my Alpine tuck.
Unless you've either haggled hard already and they've nothing to give or it's a bike in such demand they know they'll shift it anyway I'd say they were being a bit tight with those offers and it'd leave me less inclined to use them long term. That said if it were me I'd probably keep those ratios and work on my Alpine tuck.
In reply to Indy: with that budget I'd leave the Trek and enjoy working with a good local bike shop to build up a custom quality and unique bike on a top end frame, eg Ridley Helium
1
In reply to kevin stephens:
I did that with my commuter in 2012 as I'd never spec'd up a 'dream bike'. To be honest I almost certainly wouldn't do it again. I think I paid a premium of around 20%-25% compared to a similar spec'd off the shelf bike and ended up waiting much longer for it.
The basic issue surrounding the price was that I can get a full Ultegra groups for £500 but the shop I used and I suspect everyone else wanted full RRP with a token discount of say 10% so £900 instead of £500.
Thats the main reason that I'm doing what I am now.... getting the vast majority of the bike I want then swapping out the odd few bits that I don't.
Re: the Ridley Helium..... no disc brakes, so no deal. Also in general the smaller frame manufacturers haven't really gotten into the true race bike disc brake scene as its still so new hence looking at the established manufacturers.
I did that with my commuter in 2012 as I'd never spec'd up a 'dream bike'. To be honest I almost certainly wouldn't do it again. I think I paid a premium of around 20%-25% compared to a similar spec'd off the shelf bike and ended up waiting much longer for it.
The basic issue surrounding the price was that I can get a full Ultegra groups for £500 but the shop I used and I suspect everyone else wanted full RRP with a token discount of say 10% so £900 instead of £500.
Thats the main reason that I'm doing what I am now.... getting the vast majority of the bike I want then swapping out the odd few bits that I don't.
Re: the Ridley Helium..... no disc brakes, so no deal. Also in general the smaller frame manufacturers haven't really gotten into the true race bike disc brake scene as its still so new hence looking at the established manufacturers.
In reply to Timmd:
I'm not sure if I feel annoyed or angry. Going to be away at some point next week so spoke to a few dealers yesterday and again got pretty much a flat no to any swaps both from LBS's and the chains.
Went as far as spec'ing up the likely order i.e bike, power meter, head unit and a pair of shoes which came to a total of £6761 from the LBS. The refusal to swap anything came down to "the price of the bike is the price of the bike". Margins on Garmin are wafer thin so we never discount Garmin and as the shoes would be a special order then they wouldn't qualify for any discount. We could maybe do something like free fitting on the swap outs and maybe 10% on those parts. Place an order and we'll discuss it.
Any questions trying to understand how that size order couldn't support a free swap which would equate to a 3%-4%? discount was met with I'm being completely unreasonable. I didn't place an order but I think it was very likely they would have left me and the deal walk out the door. Hugely frustrating....
Anyway thanks for everyones input.
> Not to sound sarkey etc.
So'k....I'm not sure if I feel annoyed or angry. Going to be away at some point next week so spoke to a few dealers yesterday and again got pretty much a flat no to any swaps both from LBS's and the chains.
Went as far as spec'ing up the likely order i.e bike, power meter, head unit and a pair of shoes which came to a total of £6761 from the LBS. The refusal to swap anything came down to "the price of the bike is the price of the bike". Margins on Garmin are wafer thin so we never discount Garmin and as the shoes would be a special order then they wouldn't qualify for any discount. We could maybe do something like free fitting on the swap outs and maybe 10% on those parts. Place an order and we'll discuss it.
Any questions trying to understand how that size order couldn't support a free swap which would equate to a 3%-4%? discount was met with I'm being completely unreasonable. I didn't place an order but I think it was very likely they would have left me and the deal walk out the door. Hugely frustrating....
Anyway thanks for everyones input.
In reply to Indy:
Have you tried wheelbase ? When OH was shopping around for £3k plus road bike spring last year (so no big discounts ) they said they they would try their best to only charge the difference in rrp to swap bits.
Have you tried wheelbase ? When OH was shopping around for £3k plus road bike spring last year (so no big discounts ) they said they they would try their best to only charge the difference in rrp to swap bits.
In reply to Indy:
The last custom bike I speced was in the mid 90s.
A thermo plastic GT downhill race bike.
Like you I could have got it up to 20% cheaper by shopping around online but I like to deal with local shops rather than get the bits from multiple locations. Cost me around 5k and that was a massive amount for a bike back then.
When the top tube snapped during the first race the shop bent over backwards to sort me out.
Same thing with a kayak, the rim round the deck snapped one day when I picked it up in freezing conditions.
You could see where when the hole had been cut out and the edges sanded down the sanding had scored the hull (what do you call the top half of a boat?)
The manufacturer Riot changed it no problem but being a bit cheeky I asked if I could get the replacement sent as the new booster instead of the old grind. Riot said no but the local shop I bought it from said yes and ordered me a new booster and kept the replacement grind to sell in the shop.
I always shop local and in the most part have been very well looked after, I suspect any local shop that will let you walk before doing a small discount deal is being truthful when they say they can't afford to. If there was still a profit in it they would do it.
> I did that with my commuter in 2012 as I'd never spec'd up a 'dream bike'. To be honest I almost certainly wouldn't do it again. I think I paid a premium of around 20%-25% compared to a similar spec'd off the shelf bike and ended up waiting much longer for it.
> The basic issue surrounding the price was that I can get a full Ultegra groups for £500 but the shop I used and I suspect everyone else wanted full RRP with a token discount of say 10% so £900 instead of £500.
The last custom bike I speced was in the mid 90s.
A thermo plastic GT downhill race bike.
Like you I could have got it up to 20% cheaper by shopping around online but I like to deal with local shops rather than get the bits from multiple locations. Cost me around 5k and that was a massive amount for a bike back then.
When the top tube snapped during the first race the shop bent over backwards to sort me out.
Same thing with a kayak, the rim round the deck snapped one day when I picked it up in freezing conditions.
You could see where when the hole had been cut out and the edges sanded down the sanding had scored the hull (what do you call the top half of a boat?)
The manufacturer Riot changed it no problem but being a bit cheeky I asked if I could get the replacement sent as the new booster instead of the old grind. Riot said no but the local shop I bought it from said yes and ordered me a new booster and kept the replacement grind to sell in the shop.
I always shop local and in the most part have been very well looked after, I suspect any local shop that will let you walk before doing a small discount deal is being truthful when they say they can't afford to. If there was still a profit in it they would do it.
In reply to Indy:
Interesting. When I did it, I couldn't get the spec I wanted off the peg and to get the LBS to build to a spec was going to cost me. I'd already paid them for a bike fitting to get the frame sizes and measurements, a mate had most of the groupset I wanted and a set of bars and stumbled across a perfect frame online in a sale - just needed wheels and pedals. Bought stem and cables from LBS. I reckon I paid about 30% less than buying off the peg.
> I did that with my commuter in 2012 as I'd never spec'd up a 'dream bike'. To be honest I almost certainly wouldn't do it again. I think I paid a premium of around 20%-25% compared to a similar spec'd off the shelf bike and ended up waiting much longer for it.
Interesting. When I did it, I couldn't get the spec I wanted off the peg and to get the LBS to build to a spec was going to cost me. I'd already paid them for a bike fitting to get the frame sizes and measurements, a mate had most of the groupset I wanted and a set of bars and stumbled across a perfect frame online in a sale - just needed wheels and pedals. Bought stem and cables from LBS. I reckon I paid about 30% less than buying off the peg.
In reply to Indy:
What is your commuter? Seems odd that it should be 20% more than an off the shelf model for similar spec.
What is your commuter? Seems odd that it should be 20% more than an off the shelf model for similar spec.
In reply to Indy:
Is it really that often that you'd spin out? Put an 11 tooth sprocket on with the compact, and it would be equivalent to about a 53x12. You'd have to be going some to spin that out often!
> If I lived in the Alps then fair enough but I can easily spin out a compact.
Is it really that often that you'd spin out? Put an 11 tooth sprocket on with the compact, and it would be equivalent to about a 53x12. You'd have to be going some to spin that out often!
3
In reply to Byronius Maximus:
Yes, often enough for it to be annoying especially when out with others. I believe the difference you mention leads to around a 10% speed difference.
You also need to factor in your cadence sweetspot.
> Is it really that often that you'd spin out? Put an 11 tooth sprocket on with the compact, and it would be equivalent to about a 53x12. You'd have to be going some to spin that out often!
Yes, often enough for it to be annoying especially when out with others. I believe the difference you mention leads to around a 10% speed difference.
You also need to factor in your cadence sweetspot.
1
In reply to Indy:
The difference between 50x11 and 50x11 is 1.9mph at 90 cadence, do you really ride at 32mph that often?
The difference between 50x11 and 50x11 is 1.9mph at 90 cadence, do you really ride at 32mph that often?
In reply to Indy:
Buy the bike and try it. If you don't get on with Compact there are plenty of people doing the swop the other way who might exchange with you. You'll find them advertising their semi-compact rings on Ebay.
Buy the bike and try it. If you don't get on with Compact there are plenty of people doing the swop the other way who might exchange with you. You'll find them advertising their semi-compact rings on Ebay.
In reply to Indy:
Either you're a monster or perhaps you should get a fixie and work on your souplesse. One hour on a largely flat coursetwith a couple of lumps, in a small group, and I'll manage an average of 22.5 mph on a semi-compact road bike (11-52) without coming close to spinning out except on the downhills following a balls out sprint over the crest. I'm goosed after that BTW - no time triallist, me, but there are some close to KOM times on segments in there and most segments in top 10% at that pace. - it's the local club's Wednesday Night Blast route, so not short of contenders. I'd bracket myself as a keen club rider of a certain age, average 150-170 miles/week.
As far as swaapping bits on your bike out, I can see them struggling to shift a spare BB30 crank, so you're effectively asking the owner to buy you the bit you want out of his own pocket.
Either you're a monster or perhaps you should get a fixie and work on your souplesse. One hour on a largely flat coursetwith a couple of lumps, in a small group, and I'll manage an average of 22.5 mph on a semi-compact road bike (11-52) without coming close to spinning out except on the downhills following a balls out sprint over the crest. I'm goosed after that BTW - no time triallist, me, but there are some close to KOM times on segments in there and most segments in top 10% at that pace. - it's the local club's Wednesday Night Blast route, so not short of contenders. I'd bracket myself as a keen club rider of a certain age, average 150-170 miles/week.
As far as swaapping bits on your bike out, I can see them struggling to shift a spare BB30 crank, so you're effectively asking the owner to buy you the bit you want out of his own pocket.
1
In reply to nniff:
A BB30 crank and a £7k sale or no BB30 crank and no £7k sale..... Hmmmmm whens the next quarterly rent bill again?
> I can see them struggling to shift a spare BB30 crank, so you're effectively asking the owner to buy you the bit you want out of his own pocket.
A BB30 crank and a £7k sale or no BB30 crank and no £7k sale..... Hmmmmm whens the next quarterly rent bill again?
In reply to Indy:
The value of the sale isn't really relevent. Its what they make on the whole deal that is important.
The value of the sale isn't really relevent. Its what they make on the whole deal that is important.
In reply to GrahamD:
Are you saying that a 3-4% effective discount on full rrp would make the deal uneconomic???
Are you saying that a 3-4% effective discount on full rrp would make the deal uneconomic???
Post edited at 12:34
In reply to GrahamD:
And I'm completely fine with that as its 100% their decision so why am I getting so much attitude from my decision not to by from them?
And I'm completely fine with that as its 100% their decision so why am I getting so much attitude from my decision not to by from them?
In reply to Indy:
I don't think you are, are you ? it just seems people are disagreeing with your expecation of what a LBS should/can do.
> ...why am I getting so much attitude from my decision not to by from them?
I don't think you are, are you ? it just seems people are disagreeing with your expecation of what a LBS should/can do.
In reply to GrahamD:
But they aren't doing anything other than selling me the required parts at either full rrp or close to and giving me a so called discount on fitting leaving me with parts I don't want. When I pushed for a better deal I get a I'm being unreasonable because they make virtually no money on the sale...... which is BS.
But they aren't doing anything other than selling me the required parts at either full rrp or close to and giving me a so called discount on fitting leaving me with parts I don't want. When I pushed for a better deal I get a I'm being unreasonable because they make virtually no money on the sale...... which is BS.
6
In reply to Indy:
just give the LBS a list of your requirements and budget and see what they can come up with? nothing to lose and just because Specialized are unhelpful to LBSs doesn't mean that other top brands will be - you may be surprised
just give the LBS a list of your requirements and budget and see what they can come up with? nothing to lose and just because Specialized are unhelpful to LBSs doesn't mean that other top brands will be - you may be surprised
In reply to Indy:
bling with a big chainset
https://www.evanscycles.com/scott-addict-premium-disc-di2-2017-road-bike-EV...
bling with a big chainset
https://www.evanscycles.com/scott-addict-premium-disc-di2-2017-road-bike-EV...
In reply to Indy:
Except it's not really what you want - I wouldn't get another bike with BB30 - mines starting to creak (it's taken a whle mind) and it is limiting when you wannt to change things - no such thing as a discount groupset as bits have to come from all over (or, as you have found out, something needs to be discarded)
How about a Wydymilla Massive Attack disc - with everything to suit if you want carbon, and British to boot. With an online-bought groupset, £1000 on wheels, that should get you a Dura-ace or Ultegra di2 bike within your budget.
Mind you, I have a commuter bike with disk brakes that squeals like a pig in the rain, and was out with someone with a very fancy new disc bike that did the same. All in the name of progress, but the gentle sound of rim being ground to paste is altogther less stressful.
Except it's not really what you want - I wouldn't get another bike with BB30 - mines starting to creak (it's taken a whle mind) and it is limiting when you wannt to change things - no such thing as a discount groupset as bits have to come from all over (or, as you have found out, something needs to be discarded)
How about a Wydymilla Massive Attack disc - with everything to suit if you want carbon, and British to boot. With an online-bought groupset, £1000 on wheels, that should get you a Dura-ace or Ultegra di2 bike within your budget.
Mind you, I have a commuter bike with disk brakes that squeals like a pig in the rain, and was out with someone with a very fancy new disc bike that did the same. All in the name of progress, but the gentle sound of rim being ground to paste is altogther less stressful.
In reply to kevin stephens:
Did look at that but don't want Durace and my size not available for another 5 months
Did look at that but don't want Durace and my size not available for another 5 months
In reply to Indy:
Apparently Wiggle is giving 5% discount for the moon on a stick.
Apparently Wiggle is giving 5% discount for the moon on a stick.
Post edited at 14:55
3
1
In reply to Indy:
But the fact that it is common practice across LBS makes it not BS unless they are all in cartel. I've had the same thing when I bought my last bike and wanted a different cassette fitted.
> But they aren't doing anything other than selling me the required parts at either full rrp or close to and giving me a so called discount on fitting leaving me with parts I don't want. When I pushed for a better deal I get a I'm being unreasonable because they make virtually no money on the sale...... which is BS.
But the fact that it is common practice across LBS makes it not BS unless they are all in cartel. I've had the same thing when I bought my last bike and wanted a different cassette fitted.
In reply to GrahamD:
Except that a cassette is a service item and a crank is not. I've got an unused 11-25 Dura-ace cassette sitting at home which Wiggle wouldn't swap out of the Groupset for an 11-28. That's an expensive thing to have sitting around until I go somewhere flat (or get a lot stronger) but the Groupset was bike-build pack. I could have bought each item in glossy boxes had I wanted (from the LBS or Wiggle) and paid twice as much for the privilege.
Except that a cassette is a service item and a crank is not. I've got an unused 11-25 Dura-ace cassette sitting at home which Wiggle wouldn't swap out of the Groupset for an 11-28. That's an expensive thing to have sitting around until I go somewhere flat (or get a lot stronger) but the Groupset was bike-build pack. I could have bought each item in glossy boxes had I wanted (from the LBS or Wiggle) and paid twice as much for the privilege.
In reply to Indy:
I do think the shop could be more accommodating and could just give you the new cranks for cost but I think Sir Chasm has got a point, just tell them that you're going elsewhere.
> Whatever.
I do think the shop could be more accommodating and could just give you the new cranks for cost but I think Sir Chasm has got a point, just tell them that you're going elsewhere.
1
In reply to nniff:
Hmmmmm thats interesting! Thanks for the heads up.
> How about a Wydymilla Massive Attack disc - with everything to suit if you want carbon, and British to boot. With an online-bought groupset, £1000 on wheels, that should get you a Dura-ace or Ultegra di2 bike within your budget.
Hmmmmm thats interesting! Thanks for the heads up.
In reply to Dark-Cloud:
And people wonder why bike shops are going tits up!
When I use my LBS I do so for services I don't want to /can't do myself or where the service side of things is important as there's normally a substantial price premium. If bike shops expected to survive then they need to go that bit further with the service.
> He sounds like a customer that they probably don't want......
And people wonder why bike shops are going tits up!
When I use my LBS I do so for services I don't want to /can't do myself or where the service side of things is important as there's normally a substantial price premium. If bike shops expected to survive then they need to go that bit further with the service.
1
In reply to gethin_allen:
Well, OK, you know what i mean though.
The guy who owns my local shop is more than happy to swap stems and other bits that can be put back into stock but an own brand chainset isn't something the OP's shop or my local probably doesn't and won't stock.
Also spinning out on 50x11 is not really an issue is it ? If he does this more than once or twice in a ride other than downhill or with a following wind then he should have been in Rio......or as pointed out above, needs to learn how to pedal properly.
Well, OK, you know what i mean though.
The guy who owns my local shop is more than happy to swap stems and other bits that can be put back into stock but an own brand chainset isn't something the OP's shop or my local probably doesn't and won't stock.
Also spinning out on 50x11 is not really an issue is it ? If he does this more than once or twice in a ride other than downhill or with a following wind then he should have been in Rio......or as pointed out above, needs to learn how to pedal properly.
2
In reply to Dark-Cloud:
I'm not suggesting this applies to the OP, but there does seem to be a mindset amongst some cyclist that moving from a standard to compact chain-set is wimpish and unmanly
I'm not suggesting this applies to the OP, but there does seem to be a mindset amongst some cyclist that moving from a standard to compact chain-set is wimpish and unmanly
1
In reply to nniff:
At the risk of derailing the thread. All my research and experience leads me to the conclusion that disc brakes on road bikes is no kind of progress at all.
> Mind you, I have a commuter bike with disk brakes that squeals like a pig in the rain, and was out with someone with a very fancy new disc bike that did the same. All in the name of progress, but the gentle sound of rim being ground to paste is altogether less stressful.
At the risk of derailing the thread. All my research and experience leads me to the conclusion that disc brakes on road bikes is no kind of progress at all.
2
1
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:
I agree - my commuter has disk brakes - it's a 24 inch wheel folder - an Airnimal Joey - and there's no getting away from the fact that the brakes work really welll in the wet. They squeal like a banshee, but they do work. And there's the problem - a wet, oily London road and disk brakes in the wet are not really compatible - although to be fair it's probably exacerbated by the smaller wheels.
The flip side of the coin is that the last set of pads I had on my nice bike were vanishingly useless in the rain - to the extent of sailing over zebra crossings, apologising profusely, with the brakes full on. SwissStop pads fixed that.
> At the risk of derailing the thread. All my research and experience leads me to the conclusion that disc brakes on road bikes is no kind of progress at all.
I agree - my commuter has disk brakes - it's a 24 inch wheel folder - an Airnimal Joey - and there's no getting away from the fact that the brakes work really welll in the wet. They squeal like a banshee, but they do work. And there's the problem - a wet, oily London road and disk brakes in the wet are not really compatible - although to be fair it's probably exacerbated by the smaller wheels.
The flip side of the coin is that the last set of pads I had on my nice bike were vanishingly useless in the rain - to the extent of sailing over zebra crossings, apologising profusely, with the brakes full on. SwissStop pads fixed that.
1
In reply to nniff:
Have to agree about getting the right pads and that applies to disc brakes too.
> I agree - my commuter has disk brakes - it's a 24 inch wheel folder - an Airnimal Joey - and there's no getting away from the fact that the brakes work really welll in the wet. They squeal like a banshee, but they do work. And there's the problem - a wet, oily London road and disk brakes in the wet are not really compatible - although to be fair it's probably exacerbated by the smaller wheels.
> The flip side of the coin is that the last set of pads I had on my nice bike were vanishingly useless in the rain - to the extent of sailing over zebra crossings, apologising profusely, with the brakes full on. SwissStop pads fixed that.
Have to agree about getting the right pads and that applies to disc brakes too.
In reply to kevin stephens:
Mais ouis, it's in the Rules. SLP
> there does seem to be a mindset amongst some cyclist that moving from a standard to compact chain-set is wimpish and unmanly
Mais ouis, it's in the Rules. SLP
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Fri Night Vid Le Toit de Ben - Quebec 1958
This week's Friday Night Video whisks us back to Val-David, Quebec, in the Autumn of 1958. Two daring young climbers embark on the ascent of a route that seemed unattainable, resembling a roof suspended in the air, defying all the conventions of the time....
3 May
Loading Notifications...