UKC

So it s that time of year when the temperatures drop and heading out with a few pads is often preferable to trying to swap leads. Just looking for more recommendations of good old school routes that can be highballed or quality higher boulder problems in the V2-6ish/HVS-E3 range. Particularly interested to get recommendations of stuff on Western/Moorland grit in the Peak, Yorkshire and Lancashire grit which i know less about/haven't bouldered as much on. Feel free to chuck in some more obscure Eastern grit stuff I might have missed and even Cheshire/Northumberland stuff.

Looking for other stuff similar to these in Yorkshire: Poetry in Motion (f6A) Syrett's Roof (f7A) (need to try this),

West peak: Finger of Fate (f6B), Charlie's Overhang (f6B) (need to try this again), Foord's Folly (E2 6a) The Fin (f6C+)?? (need to go back but seemed high)

Lancashire???

Cheshire??? - Frodsham/pex stuff?

Eastern grit have done a fair amount but think along the lines of: D.I.Y. (f6B), Daydreamer (E2 6b),Pig's Ear (f6A+), The Unreachable Star (f6B+), Golden Days (E3 6b)

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Crookrise? Crease Direct, Hovis Superdirect, Rons Crack II

Also plenty to go at Earl and Slipstones - get the YMC guides and get psyched

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Stacks at Caley - One Man and His Dogmas (E5 6b), Death Drop 2000 (E4 6b), Psycho (E5 6b), Adrenaline Rush (E5 6b), The Great Flake (E6 6b), Ron's Reach/Ripper Traverse (f6B)... Loads I can't remember.

The amazing arete and wall at Simon's seat - I'll Bet She Does (E3 6a) and And She Was (E3 6a)

In the county, most of Bowden is highball-able if you're proper brave but obvious ones would be Crunchie (full route) (E2 5c), Dog Eat Dog (f7A) (not that high), The Sting (E3 6a),His Eminence (E4 6a), The Manta (E3 6a)...

In reply to danm:

yes this is the sort of thing thanks. Is Ron's Crack II looks great, have done Crease direct and Hovis but not the superdirect, the normal way seemed nails but perhaps we traversed in too low.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:
Horror Arete at Bridestones is a must do in your 'quality higher boulder problems' category.

In reply to Lemony:


these have been on the list as such for a while I must go back up there! Along with Sypeland Simon's and Lord's seat (one visit before but was proper old school with no pads) look to have a lot of potential for this sort of thing

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

A few on the east side

Hot Ziggerty (f6C) at Baslow is around V4 with a lurch off the boulder at the start, very good climbing up a wall.

Acid Reign (f6C) at Rivelin isn't that high but feels very committing

Also, Down to Earth at Bamford is a stand-out, absolutely brilliant moves leaving the hanging groove

In reply to Wood for Trees:

Acid Reign is a good call. There is actually quite a good little circuit at Rivelin- The Trivial Pursuits highballs on the block below Blizzard Ridge, Parallel Universe (E3 6b) was cleaned up last year, font 6C ish. Money For Old Rope to the left also looks worthwhile. Probably worth taking a short bit of rope to give them a quick brush first. Europe After Rain (f7A) is brilliant, a few pads are useful to level the sloped landing. Also Boulder Club (f6C+) and Takes the Biscuit (E4 6b)

At Curbar, Blue Hawaii, Rat Scabies, Unreachable Star, Art of Japan, The Mask, Finger Distance, Stopper, Thomas the Tanked Up Engine would give a good day of highballs up to V5ish.

The Runnel and Golden Days at Black Rocks. You could combine a day out here with a very esoteric tick of The Crack at Crich Tors, and the 6C prows there. Useful to have a rope to clean the top of the Crack, though the prows are OK as you can slither off back down cracks either side.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

In Cheshire you'll want to go to Harmer's Wood for highballs I think. Lots of stuff there and much of it has an element of height to it.
The Dark Ark (f7A+) is stand out, but everything there is good. Stuff like the Dark Ark benefits from abbing down and putting some chalk on the holds as they're likely to be invisible from below.

Yorkshire has loads as have been mentioned. Most climbs at Great Wolfrey could be highballed. Many things at Almscliff and Caley. Rylstone - don't miss The Verge of Tranquility (f6C+) which doesn't get as much attention as it ought to but sits next to White Doe and PiM. Half of Brimham. An exhaustive list is almost impossible.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Great thread.

You'll have done most of the classics I do every year, but here's a few that could get overlooked:

Sublime Indifference (f6A) - great name, great problem
The Cube (f6B+) - you must have done this? So, so brilliant

Are you a fan of the Glen? An acquired taste, I appreciate.

Rudolph (Millstone) (f6C) - think this is 'Millstone Grip'? Quality! But so many more at the crag, they get really dangerous down at the Pub End, if you're up for that, but I generally preferred the more reasonable things around Manson's Wall etc.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Loads of good stuff on here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=526868

I hardly managed any of these as it turned out. For whatever reason, that winter living in Saltaire I ended up just going to the Glen, Caley and Almscliff all the time. I'll be up for going out to try some of these, give us a shout if you need an extra pad and a spot.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

A few not mentioned already...

Paul's arete, Slipstones - not too hard but classy.
Naked Edge, Simon's seat - maybe the best thing there and often overlooked.
Few things at Brimham, Fag slab area, Acme wall etc.
Caley - Permutation rib, Rabbit's paw, arete below Zoo York

Curbar - Fidget is the obvious other one
Trust, Hen cloud - slopers, needs decent nick

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Larchbow (f6B) feels like a highball, though you could jump for the ledge. Really lovely spot.
Brad's Arête 'The Presence of Absence' (f6C+) is probably the best peaky problem ive done.
Anything from Slipstones (except Micro-corner) or head further up to Brownbeck for the likes of Wichita Lineman (HVS 5b).
And a whole host up at Ash Head. Chicken Head Rib (f6B) is everything you could want from a highball.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:
You've got Finger of Fate but how about these on the Clouds?

Swivel Finger (f6B)
Boysen's Delight (HVS 5c)
Persistence (f6B)
Communist Crack (VS 5a)

A few suggestions on Hen Cloud:

Solid Geometry (E1 5b)
Starlight Left (f6B+) or the proper right hand version if you can do it (I can't get anywhere near)
Micks Metaphor (E1 5c)
Touch (E4 6c)

In reply to Adam Long:


Bloody desperate that thing. E1 my arse.


Roaches clouds, not Hen?

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Have you been to Sypeland yet ? I did some cracking highballs there earlier in the year. Just ticking these few would make it worth the walk in: Horse Gone Wonky (E2 6a), Caught in an Eddy (E2 6a), Eeyore (E2 6a), Breaking Out (E3 6b) and there's still loads more to do

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

My favourite's at the Pits:

Windbreaker (E2 5b)

In reply to Jon Stewart:



I think he means Touch at Hen Cloud.

http://peakbouldering.info/areas/2-western-grit/crags/60-hen-cloud/boulders...

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

At Popular End:

Whipped Like a Red-Headed Stepchild (E2 6b)
Mini Micro (f7A)
Topaz (E4 6a)

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Sounds like you may want a day out at Earl Crag above Cowling on the North/West Yorkshire/Lancashire border...

In reply to all:

Thanks for all the great suggestions so far, some stuff I've done but forgotten about, some stuff i've tried/knew about and some great new stuff i had to look up!! Should turn into a few good days out!

For reference I've done the following great suggestions:
Crease Direct (f6A+) - had just led the normal route so then did the direct and soloed out the top with more style than i led the VS
Acid Reign (f6C) - great moves
The Cube (f6B+) - remember this being great but unfortunately i mostly recall having wet feet all day after walking through slushy snow and bog to get to this!
Paul's Arete Right Hand (f5) - think the landing is not inspiring but the moves and line fantastic.
Rabbit's Paw Wall (HVS 5b) - this was a highlight of a great day along with Angel's Wall (f5) done without pads after a bit of trad up on the edge.
Brad's Arête 'The Presence of Absence' (f6C+) - did twice no tree, really nice sequence took some working out first.
Solid Geometry (E1 5b) - led this one!
Windbreaker (E2 5b) - not too bad but was scared of the landing so tried on a rope first!
Swivel Finger (f6B) - Ace i did twice, think i have a photo of this somewhere.
Boysen's Delight (HVS 5c) - haha i did this last week as a warm up lead and fell off WTF! the start, after leading my mate tried but couldn't do it so i soloed up trailling a rope to abseil for his gear but in the end thought i better go on belay for the last move
Persistence (f6B) - nice would have done again last week when a friend did it but was saving myself
Communist Crack (VS 5a) - would probably be rubbish as a lead but was a really good fun highball/solo
Trust (f7A) - have done this (not high?) think there was some confusion about this one though as it is not at hen cloud but perhaps was supposed to be Touch (E4 6c) which i've not done/tried put perhaps is too hard for me but a good bet for some. Whilst looking this up I've found "Some Staffordshire Highballs" page 133 in the new roaches guide! This should give me a few more ideas, how did i miss this before! I know there is one in the Burbage guide but have never noticed one in the Froggatt or Stanage guides or has my toilet reading also been ineffective?
Trivial Pursuits 2 (f6A) - great but i have only done this on that block so i guess i should try the others, We're Only Here for the Smear (E3 5b) this should be good too, I recently gave it a light brush and did it on a rope but I need to return for the solo, should be safe with a few pads and a spotter.

Stuff I've tried but need to go back to finish
Hot Ziggerty (f6C) - man that is a hard rock over/reach up, want more pads and a spotter as only tried on my own, do you pop for the big jug at the start from the block or is that not cricket?
Acme Wall (E3 6a) - too tired to finish this last time but a great safe high problem
Fidget (f6C) - had a quick pull on recently but mega keen to try this properly with a few pads/spotters, that photo on UKC of the guy doing it above a cloud inversion is so inspiring. Also at Curbar i've not tried from Mark's list Blue Hawaii (f6C+),Rat Scabies (E3 6b), Finger Distance (E3 6b), Stopper (E4 6a), Thomas the Tanked up Engine (f6A+) though i have looked at it in the rain, I think i tried The Mask (E1 6b) once but need to finish that too this would make a good day out. Have done The Unreachable Star (f6B+) & Art of Japan (f6C) both great.

Stuff i need to check out!:
Crookrise - Hovis Direct (f6B) - have done normal way but direct looked great and straightens out the line nicely without any more height than I have done before. Ron's Crack II (f7A+) - looks great, need to get up there with a few pads and have a decent session at this crag!

Caley - lots of stuff Permutation Rib (E1 5c) this was wet last time i was there The hard stuff looks cool will have to see/need a few more pads and a spotter! ( One Man and His Dogmas (E5 6b), Death Drop 2000 (E4 6b), Psycho (E5 6b), Adrenaline Rush (E5 6b), The Great Flake (E6 6b), Ron's Reach/Ripper Traverse (f6B))

Bowden - never been but has been on the list of places to go to for a while loots of good warm up stuff too suggestions look good: Crunchie (full route) (E2 5c) , Dog Eat Dog (f7A), The Sting (E3 6a), His Eminence (E4 6a), The The Manta (E3 6a)

Simon's seat - really keen to get up there again & to Lord's Seat - I'll Bet She Does (E3 6a),And She Was (E3 6a), The Naked Edge (E3 6a) all higher up the list!
Horror Arete (f6C) - have seen photos of this before and it looks great, though looks like you need to be careful with the crag judging by the YMC guide.
Parallel Universe (E3 6b)- have walked past this before and thought it looked dirty but good, looks like yet another reason to go back to Rivelin over the winter! Yes a rope and a quick brush would probably be useful, and may as well look at Money for Old Rope (E2 6b) if in the area though it seems to suggest in the guide there is gear so perhaps a rope with pads combo?

Black Rocks - The Runnel (E3 6b) looks so good every time i go past it would be good to combine it with Crich Tors - as the crack looks like my sort of thing. Golden Days (E3 6b) is almost perfect and felt so good

Harmer's Wood - this place does look good in the guide I think a friend lives near by, good tip on bringing a rope if things are really dirty & unchalked to give things a very gentle brush/chalk being sandstone!

The Verge of Tranquility (f6C+) - over looked this when i was there (it was my first day outside and on my own after an operation doing The White Doe (f6A) and Poetry in Motion (f6A) so would be good to check out sometime and explore the moor more.

Sublime Indifference (f6A) - had to look this up - sounds like it is worth a look as i've overlooked that on a local crag

Starlight and Storm (f6C+)/the left hand have been on the list for a while must get on this

Shipley Glen - another crag to go to though with a few friends/spotter/extra mats
Other crags which look worth checking out too Ash Head - have always fancied the trad there too.
Brown Beck Crag - like slipstones so this should be good too I hope
Sypeland - no as mentioned i haven't been but all looks so good will have to check out your suggestions (Horse Gone Wonky (E2 6a), Caught in an Eddy (E2 6a), Eeyore (E2 6a), Breaking Out (E3 6b))

keen to try the stanage ones ( Whipped Like a Red-Headed Stepchild (E2 6b), Mini Micro (f7A) Topaz (E4 6a) - perhaps with a rope if doing the true finish?) as it is a crag that i sometimes struggle to find stuff to try these days which i haven't tried before so is good to get some off the radar suggestions.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

If you are considering Harmers Wood then Pex Hill is also worth a visit. Many of the problems on Lady Jane Wall are well into highball territory.

Another option if you fancy some quarried grit is Ousels Nest see youtube.com/watch?v=PhNHM57xna0& for some example problems.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Harmers is quite conditions dependant and will be horrible right now. Needs a few dry days to degrease/debrittle. It's not been a vintage year TBH! Helsby in the Woods dries faster if nearby your mate.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

A Northern Soul (f7A+) at Hepburn is reputedly the one of the best problems in The County. I didn't think it was that hard physically, so if you are comfortable with high problems above a good landing I'd expect it would be a go-er despite being at the upper limit of your requested grades.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

WRT Sypeland, there are some good problems there but be prepared to fight scrittle if you go. I'm also not sure I would class any of the problems named as being worthy of a "best grit highballs" thread. Neither very highball or all that good. Better would be to visit the nearby Ash Head, or go to Yeadon for The Cestrian (f7A+) and The Arkenstone (f7A+) which are both good wall climbs - and not too highball. The Arkenstone might be 7B and I don't think it's had a repeat yet.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

I don't think Chew Valley has been mentioned yet but how about Winsome (f7A+) on the Matterhorn boulder at Chew Valley Rocks. Upper end of your range.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Getting mixed up with Touch! Trust is good too, but not really highball and Graham has probably done it.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

>keen to try the stanage ones ( Whipped Like a Red-Headed Stepchild (E2 6b), Mini Micro (V5) Topaz (E4 6a) - perhaps with a rope if doing the true finish?

Your first two there are barely highball, Whipped is a good move, Mini a pretty tricky slap/ dyno.

Topaz is very good and more in the vein, committing move. From the big break it is VS max to escape so I wouldn't bother with a rope.

In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Check out the Chicken Heads wall at Ash Head. Also Splatomatic there. you'll be surprised how good they are.