UKC

Climbing has always struck me as one of the few sports/activities that people keep doing long after they have given up other sports and which they do despite having to surmount increasingly difficult physical hurdles. I have come across many an aged climber describing how he has had to change his technique after a hip operation, or having to test each hold carefully because they have Parkinson's. I have met one armed climbers and blind climbers and climbers in their 80's. Now as I enter my retirement years I don't climb as hard as I used to but I still get the urge to go out and get on the rock. I have also changed my technique. No shoulder wrenching dynos, warming up properly, no crimping on arthritic fingers etc. I was wonder how other "mature" climbers staved off the decline of years?

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

For me getting out as much as possible is the key. Visiting new areas helps a lot and keeps me inspired. The days we don't climb we almost always go for a walk.


Chris (66 years old and 518 routes this year so far)

In reply to Chris Craggs:


Slacker. You did 500 last year. Twenty days left for the 600...

In reply to jon:


Bizarrely the 10 weeks we had in Norway set me back - apart from the 3 weeks Colin was there, I spent most of my time working on the new Lofoten book,

Chris

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

Denial is proving to be an effective strategy for me so far.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

1. Regular climbing and general pratting about e.g. cleaning routes, exploring new routes when the weather is poor.
2. Wall once a week Christmas to Easter, big holds only - lead.
3. Gym upper body work once a week in winter
4. Good winter season
5. Drink lots of proper beer

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

Possibly a bit late for you, but planning ahead worked for me.
By ensuring that I was a particularly crap climber in my middle age (I didn't climb before that), I left plenty of scope for improvement as I got older. I'm now probably as good (least crap) as I've ever been (age 58).
But yes, proper warming up and generally 'listening to my body' seems wise at this point.
Also, not treating climbing as a 'sport' (i.e., competitive), more as something-you-do-cos-you-enjoy-it. There are probably countless routes out there at any grade that are just fun. Isn't that the point of it all?

In reply to john arran:

Ha! My brain's in denial... the body, well...

In reply to jon:

Yoga.MOre yoga.Cut out sugar and milk products.More yoga. Oh,and climb outdoor more than indoors.

In reply to paul mitchell:

You mean more yoghurt?

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

For me the key to keeping on is to avoid injury, for which the main culprit is the indoor wall. When outdoor climbing is what it's all about, why would you risk injury on an indoor wall which will then wreck your upcoming outdoor season (of which, looking on the pessimistic side, you may not have too many left)? I use them, but very carefully - I have absolutely nothing to prove other than my common sense. I don't want another summer like 2016 which was non-existent on the climbing front after a shoulder injury suffered walking to the crag.
Personally, I don't believe you can do that much to stave off the decline. What you have to do is accept the inevitable, enjoy what you can still do without making yourself miserable over the things you can't any more. Every day out, every route, is a bonus for me. My climbing purple patch (well, more of a delicate mauve) is a distant memory but there's plenty of fun to be had on easy stuff if you have the right temperament for it. Some people give up completely when the powers start to wain, but that's really sad. My father, who I feel was too ready unthinkingly to accept the generally accepted, always said to me "If a thing's worth doing it's worth doing well" (with the implication that if you can't do it well, give up), but I long ago settled for "If a thing's worth doing it's worth doing badly".
So my advice is go sport climbing in the sun in winter, don't bother to go out in bad weather (unless you positively enjoy it) but wait for a nice day (you're retired now, you're not restricted to weekends) find a like-minded and congenial partner and get out and do what you can as often as you can.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

I haven't climbed for years but I took up road cycling about 7 years ago and now, aged 60, I'm fitter than I've ever been in my life and getting fitter with each summer that passes. The only downside is that my muscles have become completely cycling-specific and I get aching legs after a walk.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

Start climbing with someone who's dad is younger than you. You might not get much better but bask in the glow of wizened guru. Keep them in the dark and they'll believe anything.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Quite agree. Last summer I did the whole of Bosigran/Commando ridge for the first time and found it a cracking adventure.

In reply to john arran:


I think that denial is absolutely essential. Once age becomes an excuse, rapid decline is inevitable - I have seen it happen to quite a few people.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

I just keep on climbing, approx. total of indoor and outdoor this year in the region of 22,000m. This includes a 6 week and a 10day trip to Costa Blanca. I am not as good as I was, and have all the same aches and pains as my younger partners, but I still enjoy it and will continue until I stop enjoying it. I am currently trying to get my grade back up because there are some great routes I want to do that are just a bit hard for me. Injuries take a little longer to heal, but experience allows you to find a technique to get around the minor ones.
67 years old, 6b/+ sport, E1 trad, solo to VS. No grade for boulder as my strength is my stamina to just keep going. I do like multi-pitch stuff!

In reply to Rog Wilko:

Well said Rog. I think I discerned in your comment that the shoulder injury is in the past i.e. improvements have been made? I can say the same for my ski-ing whiplash neck, as well as the (climbing wall induced) torn shoulder tendon , so what say, come the Spring, we try our partnership again? (I'll keep a better eye on you on stream crossings next time, or simply avoid 'em!)

Your like minded and amenable chum: Martin; 71; not yet wholly given up on getting back to E1 leads.

In reply to Martin Bennett:

Yes, Martin, I've managed a few outings this autumn, very modest stuff, but still good!
The E1 leads ambition is great, but don't get hung up on it. However, I'll follow behind you if my progress continues and you decide you're up for it. I've always fancied Red Edge (though I mightn't manage it after the walk-in!) and Praying Mantis, although I'd need them to be not too strenuous. I need to look after the shoulder now as the tendon might tear through completely if I overdo it.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

Get out as much as possible, keep fit - I walk a lot now, climb to enjoy it rather than chase the grade. Pace yourself. Your mind set has a lot to do with it, but so long as you can get out, go for it. Don't be afraid to admit that you are getting tired and are ready to call it a day when you are out - my climbing partners understand this and are still happy to climb with me.

Obviously luck with your health plays a big part, I have had prostate cancer, but I was determined not to start feeling sorry for myself or become a couch potato, and after a radical prostatectomy my surgeon encouraged me to get back into it as soon as possible which is exactly what I did.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

Walking poles for the knees.

Not jumping off things (for knees and back)

6,0000 miles this year on a road bike (for fitness and back)

Brisk walks with the dog to even up the muscles a bit.

Fitter than I've ever been, but lamenting the state of my knees

In reply to nniff:

Oh yes! The knees. Started getting a bit of jip in them now

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

How come I used to jump off highballs onto a beermat and now get scared at head height above a bouldering mat? (Not even that old BTW.)

In reply to Duncan Bourne:


Knees tell me about it. Took early retirement 2 years ago. Thought I'd do loads of climbing. Last year after a day soloing on Tryfan I was heading down for the final time, hopped of a boulder and tore one of the lateral ligaments in my knee. Six months out of action undergoing physio. This year developed Plantar Faciistis after a weeks in Scotland in March. Heels so painful I could barely stand for a while. Thought id got rid of that by the summer but its back again now. Worried how I'm going to cope this winter. Clearly denial isn't working for me :-/

Lee

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

I saw the title to this thread and immediately thought 'it's better to use the gears on a slow decline, rather than the breaks'. Maybe there is a hidden analogy in there for what the topic is actually about.

In reply to Duncan Bourne:

I agree with everyone who appreciates the need to enjoy the actual activity for its own sake. Denial is essential but so is avoidance of injury so ignore the anecdotes of older folks who have trained (too?) hard to achieve improvements in grade. Six months of recovery is hard to take, but each to his own motivation I suppose.
I've a 72 year old friend who once averaged 200km per day in a month of cycling around France in his 30s. He bought himself an electric bike this year because he wants to be able to continue with his passion. Our equivalent is low grade sports climbing in the sun. Don't forget to swim and read a book as much as you climb.